Router confusion - plunge vs fixed

[Druxar]

Now that I've started reading more about routers I'm confused.  From what I read, routing the edges of stock with a plunge router could be dangerous, unstable etc. 

I know nothing about routers and will be buying one in the next few months.  The inspiration for the purchase will be primarily Tmolding, and I'm sure I'll want to do plunge activities like grooves to route cables or bottom mount a joytick.  Do I need to worry about using a plunge router for edge work? 

THe more I read the more confused I get.

[spiffykyle]

I have both in my workshop and use them all the time. I primarily build furniture but am now getting into designing my first cab.

A plunge router is more often used for "inset" work...basically wherever you cant approach from the edge. You can use a fixed base router to trim out holes as long as your router bit fits in the hole without touching the rough sides. With a plunge router you get it up to speed and then "plunge" the spinning bit into your work, which usually takes some practice so do some test cuts first.

A good plunge router is no harder to use than a fixed base router. You can even get kits which have the router motor and both a fixed and a plunge base.

I use my fixed base router more often and also in my router table, so if you are going to only buy one, I would get a fixed base.

For slot cutting I use my fixed base on my router table.

Don't skimp on buying a router and getting a cheap one. Its probably the most versatile tool in a workshop and you'll regret a cheap one from the start.

[ScottS]

Do I need to worry about using a plunge router for edge work?

Not necessarily. Plunge routers can be difficult to use on edges, because their design tends to make them prone to tipping. Many plunge routers have a release that's used to change the depth of the router. For edge work, the best thing to do is lock the height in place before you turn the machine on. At that point, you can treat it just as you would a fixed-base router. Of course, any router used for edge routing needs to be well-supported so that it can't tip over during the routing operation!

As spiffykyle mentioned, if you're going to buy a router there are many packages that contain both fixed and plunge bases. Look at the Bosch 1617, DeWalt 618, or similar. If you have a choice, I like a D-handle fixed base rather than a traditional two-knob design; better control. Also, if the only thing you're going to build is MAME cabinets, don't think you need a 2.25 or 3HP router. My most-used router is a small 8 amp, 1.5(?) horsepower model. The light weight makes it extremely easy to control, unlike my Bosch 1617.

[Donkey_Kong]

You hardcore woodworkers will probably laugh at me but I've been thinking about the Rotozip with plunge router attachment for light duty stuff. You know when you have tight quarters for inside of already built control panels for example...A small bodied plunge router such as the Rotozip might be nice!! Horesepower would be minimal but she would be pretty nimble up in there.

[ScottS]

Everybody I know who owns a RotoZip says they're useless for anything except making holes in drywall. I'd suggest buying a laminate trimmer (a.k.a. small router) before a RotoZip. The Bosch PR20 Colt is the best of the bunch, IIRC. The only bad thing is that they're fixed base.

BTW, why would you need to route the inside of a finished control panel?

[Donkey_Kong]

BTW, why would you need to route the inside of a finished control panel?

To add goodies that were released after you finish your control panel of course!!

BTW: This is THE last time I mention "Rotozip" around this place man! I get lots a flack for it everytime that I do...shhhhhh

 

[ScottS]

To add goodies that were released after you finish your control panel of course!!

Great in theory, but I'm not sure how much this actually comes up in real life. For most things, you could probably just drill holes from the top. If you really need to route from the back, you're probably going to have to disassemble the control panel/controls/wiring anyway so you might as well stick with a trim router/laminate trimmer or a full-sized router.

Feel free to give the RotoZip a try, just make sure you buy from someplace with a liberal return policy...

[javeryh]

I've never had trouble routing something with just my fixed base router.  Even if a plunge would do the job better (like recessing panels or something) I just set the depth on my fixed base and gently drop it in to the center of the material I want to remove.  Routers rule!

[Borkunit]

So a question I have is can a fixed base router be used to cut counter-sunk holes for joysticks on the under side of the panel where they are not on the edge?  how does one start?  Drill a pilot hole or something?

Thanks!

[javeryh]

So a question I have is can a fixed base router be used to cut counter-sunk holes for joysticks on the under side of the panel where they are not on the edge?  how does one start?  Drill a pilot hole or something?

Thanks!

Yes.  Especially since you have to drill out a hole for the joystick to go through.  That hole creates your edge to remove the rest of the material where the joystick will go.  I made this with a fixed base router and it was easy as pie!

 

First, I laid everything out in pencil.  Then I drilled out the center hole with a 1-1/8" forstner bit.  Next, I scored the edges of the rectangle with a razor using a straightedge.  Finally, I used a dado cutting bit to remove the rest of the material.  The depth of the cut is 3/8" and I made 3 passes at it going 1/8" deeper each time.  The whole process took about an hour.

[Borkunit]

Awesome, thanks!  Not surprisingly it didn't occur to me that the joystick hole was in fact and edge...

[Timoe]

Trust me dood.  Get a fixed base router and you'll have all you need to build arcade stuff.

If you want to make those wooden christmas signs that say the Gunderson's Family Home all silly and grooved out and what not, then you need a Plunge router.


If you have extra money buy a router that comes with two bases, Bosch and Dewalt have great models.

[Druxar]

A long time ago when I was reading one arcade building project site, the guy said he routed out channels in the inside of the cab to run wiring neatly.  I assume I'd need a plunge for that rather than trying to (mis)use a fixed?

[ScottS]

A long time ago when I was reading one arcade building project site, the guy said he routed out channels in the inside of the cab to run wiring neatly.  I assume I'd need a plunge for that rather than trying to (mis)use a fixed?

It might be easier to use a plunge router, but it's not strictly necessary. If all you have is a fixed-based router, you'd drill a pilot hole that's slightly wider and deeper than your router bit. Position the fixed-based router so that the bit is in the pilot hole you made with the drill and not touching anything then start it up and route away. WARNING: if the pilot hole isn't big enough, the bit will make contact before it reaches full speed, which may cause the router to twist or jump, which may result in serious injury! It's very important to size the pilot hole correctly and let the router spin up to full speed before attempting to move it.

I've also seen lots of guys, include Norm Abram from The New Yankee Workshop, make plunge cuts with a fixed-base router. As long as you have the right bit (e.g. spiral upcut) and are careful, it's not a big deal.