Suggestion for best type of wood needed

[Avenqer]

Hi all,

I have considered for years now on creating my own cabinet, the only problem is that I am really new at this.

I know they have kits out there but I have tons of time at home and so have more than the time needed to tackle a project such as this.

I thought that stages would be the obvious choice so I have two parts that I am concentrating on:

Blueprint/Design
Woodwork.

Since this is THE woodwork section, I'll save the blueprint print questions for that area.

My first thoughts/question is this:

Considering that Oak is the main hard wood of choice, is there an alternate that people may recommend?
I'm thinking of making the wood thicker than what is traditional used for arcade cabinets and instead of using cam bolts, to use recessed holes and use thick bolts/washers for a solid assembly.

Price is, as with all projects, a consideration, but I do not want to compromise the project by getting a type of wood that is more likely to decay, bow, or deteriorate whether through assembly or length of time.

So... after a long winded explanation...

What ARE the best woods for long term life and durability?  What are the least expensive of these types of hardwood? Is there a dreawback with using the least expensive of the hardwoods in comparison to the more expensive types?

I hope I haven't babbled too much, but this the starting stage and as you know, can go in many different directions quickly at once.

Thank you ahead of time and hope that you can help!   

Avenqer

P.S. After this maybe you we talk about tools?

[HaRuMaN]

Ok, well... a little more information is needed first.  How are you planning on finishing your cab?  Will you paint it, stain it, cover it in vinyl, or use some sort of laminate?  If you are going to stain it, oak would probably be a good choice.  However, if you plan on painting, covering, or laminating it, you may want to consider MDF.

[flyguy1821]

I agree with HarumaN, we are lacking some key information.  It seems as though most people will use MDF as the main wood.  I used a combo of MDF and pine with my cab.  The benefit of MDF over other woods is the accuracy of width as well as being completely flat.  MDF is pressed from a width of almost 12 inches into a 3/4 inch piece.  The downfall is durability.  Oak is much more durable than MDF but is also much more expensive and labor intensive when finishing.  If you do decide to use oak use oak faced plywood.  I say this because of 2 things, cost and size of wood needed.  You will have to joint edges to get a large piece of oak unless you have the cash to pay for a very wide piece.  Give us some more info so we know what you are really after.

[prOk]

Over the long haul, MDF is not the wood to use.  It is subject to environmental issues.   True, many people make their cabs from it but I believe it's more due to the price and ease of working than to it's structural properties    

If you want it to be oak, get cabinet grade oak plywood.  It's just as true as MDF and has the look of the wood you want.  Me personally I can't stand oak.  It was played out in the 80's.   If I was trying to make it look like furniture i'd go for Cherry or Maple first.

I'd also not worry too much about over engineering the cabinet.  Literally hundreds of thousands of arcade cabinets were built using proper engineering and were strong enough to last being drug around for in some cases 35 years or more.  All that effort for added bolts and washers etc is really not necessary.

If it were me, i'd build it from cabinet grade plywood over MDF.  Whether i'm painting, vinylling, staining.. whatever.  Good plywood will always resist damage better than MDF, especially where water is concerned.

/b

[miles2912]

I used generic MDF.  Cheap and very easy to work.  Once it is painted it will last a long time... just keep it out of the rain  :- ) .   From a structural point of view I used a frame with my cab.  I would think that a well made MDF cab sans frame should hold up pretty well.. 10 years+ shouldn't be a problem if you are not too rough on it.  My friends beat up the cab pretty good playing Street Fighter.  I originally bought a factory cab made of MDF that was 20 years old.  It was built without a frame and solid.. dinged up, scratched and the corners were going bad  but solid.  If you are looking to just paint it and apply art, MDF is your choice.  If you want a wood look, a laminate is your best bet.

Aren't options fun?

D-

[prOk]

Hehe.. you just backed up literally every reason I said not to go with MDF

[javeryh]

I've built a cab out of cabinet grade birch plywood and MDF.  The plywood stained and finished really nice (blue!) but I haven't gotten to the MDF finishing part yet - soon I hope.  I think I like working with wood better.  It is a little tougher to cut but there's not a crazy amount of dust like MDF.  Also, pattern bits on the router aren't perfect for MDF because of a little side compression.  The cabinet grade plywood was just as "true" as the MDF - although the MDF was really really flat/perfect when I bought it (I bought a high quality though).  I also have more faith in end joinery with wood than MDF but I'm not sure if that's because there's a difference or if it's just me.  Either way, for an arcade cabinet I don't think you can go wrong. 

[Druxar]

I'm also about to consider getting started on a cab (about to move into a house, will have work space (garage and basement to myself) etc.  I've been waiting for this since 1998 when I first downloaded MAME.

So now I'm looking more closely at every element to the project and I'm wondering also what kind of wood to use.

I plan to paint, not stain, so I'm not going for a wood finish look, just something solid black will do.  But I've read that MDF and other particle core items (does Melamine fall into this?) don't hold conventional fasteners well.  Does that mean anything for us cab builders screwing a cab together?  And also I've read that those choices aren't for structural applications, so I wonder if there's a concern with trying to hold up a monitor shelf on an MDF or other non plywood cab?  Or just 2x4 frame the inside and just attach the outer panels as coverings and it's not an issue?

My other question is about weight.  What is the lighter option, plywood (different types have significant different weights?) vs MDF or Melamine.

I would like something lighter that won't fall apart on me.  I'm not so worried about environmental damage issues or getting dragged around and beaten.   I just don't want screws to fall out and monitors to fall down. 

[AlexKidd]

I'm building a cabinet out of 1/2 inch birch plywood. I didn't go with the cheaper MDF because I wanted something that was light. It's build in three pieces and each piece is only about 20 lbs. As long as you build it well it's solid as a rock. It's held together with wood glue and finishing nails and easily supports the 120 lb monitor that goes on it.

[javeryh]

But I've read that MDF and other particle core items (does Melamine fall into this?) don't hold conventional fasteners well.  Does that mean anything for us cab builders screwing a cab together?  And also I've read that those choices aren't for structural applications, so I wonder if there's a concern with trying to hold up a monitor shelf on an MDF or other non plywood cab?  Or just 2x4 frame the inside and just attach the outer panels as coverings and it's not an issue?

My other question is about weight.  What is the lighter option, plywood (different types have significant different weights?) vs MDF or Melamine.

MDF should be fine.  I put mine together without screws and without an interior frame - I just glued the panels together (I did put 2"x3/4" wood strips in the interior corners though to line everything up) and it's solid as a rock.  I don't have any fears about it falling apart - I am using an LCD monitor in there though and those are lighter than CRTs but I wouldn't think it would matter that much.  It is really heavy though - really heavy like I can't move it by myself heavy - compared to my plywood cabinet which is still really heavy but I could move the empty box by myself before the monitor went in there (the MDF cabinet is a 80% scale Ms. Pac-man shape and the plywood one is a cocktail).

[spiffykyle]

Since your initial plans were leaning towards Oak, I am assuming you aren't going to paint the thing. Using Oak planks will be a huge chore since you probably wont find panels big enough. You'll have to glue boards up edgewise to get a big plank and then cut out your design. Plywood is the way to go and it finished beautifully.

IMO a good, cabinet grade plywood is your best option.  You'll bet just as structurally sound and have a great looking exterior without the extra step of laminating a layer over the MDF. Plus MDF is friggin heavy!!

Plus people aren't joking about the amount of dust with MDF. HOLY MOTHER it gets dusty. If you cut it in your garage, everything in there will be covered with a super fine dust, not sawdust size, but super fine sticks-to-everything dust. Make sure you have a good dust collection setup before cutting MDF

Screws also get a better bite in plywood over MDF. If you are going to go with MDF you will need to use a course thread screw.

So to sum it up, I'm using plywood.

[Kaytrim]

I keep reading this thread and think about how my project has progressed.  At this point I am leaning towards plywood or hardwood for my CP modules because these will get a lot of manhandling inserting and removing from the CP box.  I am noticing that the MDF is soft and wears out on the edges.  However I am still planning on using MDF for the sides of the cabinet for the smooth texture and weight.

[HaRuMaN]

I am noticing that the MDF is soft and wears out on the edges.

That's what t-molding is for...   

[Kaytrim]

I am noticing that the MDF is soft and wears out on the edges.

That's what t-molding is for...   

I am talking about where two modules rub against each other.  Look at my thread, link below and you can see what I mean.

[ScottS]

I plan to paint, not stain, so I'm not going for a wood finish look, just something solid black will do.  But I've read that MDF and other particle core items (does Melamine fall into this?) don't hold conventional fasteners well.  Does that mean anything for us cab builders screwing a cab together?  And also I've read that those choices aren't for structural applications, so I wonder if there's a concern with trying to hold up a monitor shelf on an MDF or other non plywood cab?  Or just 2x4 frame the inside and just attach the outer panels as coverings and it's not an issue?

My other question is about weight.  What is the lighter option, plywood (different types have significant different weights?) vs MDF or Melamine.

MDF, particle board, and melamine (which is usually particle board with a melamine face) don't hold conventional screws as well as plywood or a solid hard or softwood. There are screws made specifically for these materials. I like "confirmat" screws. They have a larger body and deeper threads, which is designed to hold in crappy manufactured woods like MDF, particle board, and melamine. It's still advisable to use a good wood glue in addition to the screws, IMHO.

In terms of weight, MDF is absolutely the heaviest thing you can use. And the least structurally sound. Particle board and melamine are next; still damn heavy. Plywood is the lightest, and strongest, option.

If you're planning to paint your cabinet you need to know three words: medium density overlay (a.k.a. MDO). This stuff has a plywood core, with a thin MDF-like layer on the top. The plywood is usually (always?) exterior grade, so water damage isn't as much of an issue. The surface layer is extremely flat and smooth, so it paints like a dream. And the plywood core means that it's both light and strong. The downside? You'll have to find a real lumber yard (not Home Depot or Lowe's) and special order it. A bit more expensive than cheap plywood, at least in my area, but worth it for the convenience.

[BLah247]

I had initially planned on using MDF for my cabinet project.  After reading this thread I'm lost and don't know what to use now. I'm not really so concerned with the price and would rather have a high quality cabinet for my effort.

My first plan was to use MDF and put some sort of laminate on the outside to make it black and durable. After reading this thread I am open for any suggestions.  I just want it strong and durable and don't want it warping on me.  Thanks.

[ScottS]

My first plan was to use MDF and put some sort of laminate on the outside to make it black and durable. After reading this thread I am open for any suggestions.  I just want it strong and durable and don't want it warping on me.  Thanks.

Strength and durability are the wrong things to worry about. Anything can be made strong, provided it's built correctly. And just about anything will be durable enough for a home environment. I'd worry about the following things: weight, finishing, ease-of construction.

MDF is the king of weight. 100+ lbs. per sheet and most cabinet plans I've seen call for three sheets. MDF has a smooth surface, which is easy to paint, though a primer coat is advised. MDF is easy to cut and route. It's also one of the cheapest materials available.

Melamine covered particle board is a bit lighter than MDF. The melamine covering means that no finishing is required, except for T-moulding around the edges. Melamine requires a high quality saw blade, otherwise it will chip and look like crap. Standard colors are white, almond, and black. Wood patterns, and sometimes anything that isn't white, are a special-order item.

Plywood is one of the lightest sheet goods. Maybe 70lbs per sheet for 3/4" thick. Any way you cut it, finishing is time-consuming. You'll probably need to sand. If you're painting, you'll definitely want to apply primer. If you buy cheap plywood, you'll also need to fill knot holes and other voids. Any exposed edges will need to be covered with T-molding or edge banding. Plywood is easier to work with than melamine, but it still pays to have a decent quality saw blade. Plywood is probably the most expensive material you can use. In my area, hardwood (oak, maple, cherry, etc), furniture-grade plywood starts at around $100/sheet.

MDO combines the best of MDF and plywood. It's a bit heavier than plywood, but not nearly as heavy as melamine or MDF. The surface layer is MDF-like, so it paints well. And it's just as easy to cut as MDF. Of the materials I've mentioned, MDO is probably the most difficult to find.