Bummed No Longer - Issues Mostly Resolved!

[FrizzleFried]

{EDIT: Fixed...read on}

Well,  I installed a cap kit to my PowerMax 1000C chassis (Eygo/G07 Replacement)... I had some major issues...color issues...geometry issues...etc.

The good news is that the color appears to be fixed.  Also good news is the fact that the picture overall appears to be much better looking.

The bad news is that the MAJOR issue I am experiencing...the fact that the left side of my screen (which is in a vertical orientation...so it would be the BOTTOM of the screen horizontally) is stretched a little (it used to be worse),  and the right side of the screen (which is the top of the screen when sitting horizontally) is squished.  I can not adjust the screen any further to the right...and as you can see from the screen shots,  the right side is squeezed!

Don't get me wrong...the $7.00 cap kit did wonders to the screen...but in it's current state I am going to have to replace it...

Any ideas?

[Kevin Mullins]

Looks like a convergence issue of some sorts.
Not really convergence, but more of a positioning issue.
You could try moving the entire yoke around by loosening the set screw on the neck and move it around a tad bit.
But do not move the individual rings.

This usually takes some practice.

Is there a "pincushion" or "keystone" adjustment of any kind on that chassis?

[FrizzleFried]

No pincushion adjustment... I really hoped the capkit would fix this issue...


 

[FrizzleFried]

I turned up the brightness and took a couple shots.  With the brightness up you can see how bad the right side really looks.  And you can also see just how "rough" the top and bottom edges of the picture are...though that is hard to see in this photo.  I also added some red arrows to where there are some faint vertical lines running up and down the screen...

There is also some tearing on the right hand side...as seen in the blurry photo at the bottom.

I have never messed with a yoke before...anything I should know before I dive in?  Also..I think i will get a second opinion on this issue just in case before I go messing around in places I shouldnt be going.

[Jess--]

check the chassis for a Vertical linearity adjustment marked v-lin or similar

[FrizzleFried]

VLIN adjustment is there,  but does nothing to fix this problem.   There is a slight VLIN adjustment but not nearly enough to deal with the geometry issue above.

The issue above is NOT something that I can adjust out with the POTS on the board.   This is an issue with a specific component or more than  one specific component and/or something not hooked up correctly.   The adjustment pots that the unit includes will not help this problem....I've adjusted them to the very best I can get the screen to look,  but that does nothing with the the stretch on the left or the squeeze on the right.

Thanks though...

[Ken Layton]

I don't know of anyone who makes a capkit for this. Where did you get yours? How many caps were replaced?

Still seems to me like you have some bad caps in there that were not replaced.

[FrizzleFried]

Zanen Electronics....27 caps.   From what I can see there was a SINGLE cap not replaced...C309 which is currently a 47uF 25V I do believe...it is not on the list from Zanen to replace.

[Ken Layton]

That must be a new kit then. What kit # is it from Zanen?

[FrizzleFried]

#511

Ken,

I am a newb at this stuff...so forgive my ignorance. 

When I rotate a monitor,  do I need to rotate the yoke as well (I don't think so,  but who knows?)

Can the yoke be 180 degrees off?   

I moved the yoke (while the power was off and with rubber gloves) slightly and determined that moving the yoke will rotate (of course) the image...but it didn't seem to improve the squeeze/stretch issue...can it be too far in or out on the neck?

Can i manipulate the yoke (with rubber gloves) while powered?

If so,  what do I avoid touching?

Being that one last capacitor is the only one not replaced...I assume my next step is to replace it?   

I have a single POT broken on the neck...the green bkg pot...would this somehow cause this issue (i'd figure it AT MOST would make the green extreme/nonexistant...but then again...I am a newb).

Finally...is this...can this be...somehow...a sync issue?  From what I read,  its doubtful,  but who knows...I do have an extra splice in the sync wire for length.

I don't have the history of this monitor...so I am not sure what it's been through.

EDIT: I found some documentation online for an old monitor that mentions "YOKE CENTERING TABS" and adjusting them to center the image...does my monitor have those or are they talking about the purity rings?

[FrizzleFried]

I just spoke with Zanen re: the last cap and he said they do try to cover all the caps,  but sometimes they don't have the documentation for all chassis, etc...

He recommends I replace that last cap.  He also mentioned some sort of transistor and a couple other things that, frankly, was over my head.   He seemed like a nice enough fellow,  but obviously a busy man and I didn't want to take up too much of his time.   He mentioned something about looking in to the vertical transister somethinganother?!?  Sorry...next time I call (after I replace this last cap) I think I will be ready to write down everything possible.  I think this last CAP isn't going to do much more than the 27 others did...but what the hell...it's one...and I probably have the correct cap around somewhere.

[Ken Layton]

No you don't need to touch the yoke at all. Leave it alone. Same goes for the rings on the neck.

If you have a broken pot on the neckboard, that will affect a particular color.

[FrizzleFried]

I figured the broken pot wouldn't affect geometry like this.   I guess I am down to replacing that one last cap hoping for a miracle...if nothing...shitcan the thing and buy a VisionPro or new "Eygo"...I don't have the expertise to repair this thing.

[FrizzleFried]

Welp...I replaced the last cap...and double checked all the other caps...

Still have the same problem.

So...it looks like,  unless someone else has any ideas,  that my project just got more expensive as I have to buy a monitor.   Sucks too considering that this tube has no burn-in....argh.

[rdowdy95]

You know what is crummy?  I cannot even see your pics?

[FrizzleFried]

They are hosted by IMAGESHACK...they should be working...they work for me both on this (my PC) and my mac?   

[FrizzleFried]

Welp...I have confirmed 100% that my issue is IN THE YOKE or some other component that doesn't have to do with the chassis.   I replaced the Wei-Ya chassis I had (that I thought was bad) with a G07 chassis I know worked (I fired it up last night on a moderately burned tube).   When I fired up the monitor after swapping the chassis...sure enough...the same FRIGGIN geometry issue is rearing its ugly head...it is squeezed on the left of the monitor (that is sitting vertically) and it is stretched on the right side. 

So now I have 2 working chassis...1 burned monitor that works fine and a perfectly clear monitor that is screwed up some way.

I can pull the yoke off the burned tube and put it on the good tube,  but I have no idea how to do it...whether it is hard to do...or what to watch out for when I do it...but I am certainly willing to try with some instruction.

Time to hit google I guess...

[FrizzleFried]

SUCCESS!!!!!   

I swapped the yoke from the burned monitor and we are good to go!   Swapping the yoke is much easier than I anticipated.   

Is it possible to repair a yoke or should i just ---steaming pile of meadow muffin----can this yoke and purchase another to get the other monitor up and running (even with a burned in screen it would make a nice bench rig)...

[Ken Layton]

You can't fix the yoke. Sounds to me like it has a bad wire inside the bundle.

New replacement Electrohome yokes are not available. You might or might not find a used one on ebay. You could buy a new Wei-ya yoke (# HA-058) for $18 from Alva Amusement to use with that Wei-ya/Eygo/Promax chassis you have.

[FrizzleFried]

I may go that route.   I think I am going to re-cap this chassis.

Will the Wei-Ya chassis worth with the G07 yoke (you made it sound like the Wei-Ya yoke wouldn't work with the G07 so I figured I better ask)?

Also...any suggestion for a good game that has test screens of the different colors? I use Ms Pac for the grid so I am ok on that end

[Ken Layton]

The Wei-ya chassis works with the Electrohome yoke, but since you have a bad yoke I thought you'd want to buy a new yoke to have a perfect picture again.

The best monitor test patterns are on the Street Fighter 2 and Williams classics.

[FrizzleFried]

Do you know of any games with pure red, green & blue screens?   Also,  you mention the Williams Classics but I cant find a test mode in Joust, Defender, Bubbles, etc?

Thanks.

[Ken Layton]

All of the Williams classic circuit boards have a test mode with monitor patterns/fields.

[FrizzleFried]

While SFII and others (1942, etc) have the test mode listed under the dip switches...where can I fine that in the Williams games?   There is no test mode option under the dip switches?

Maybe it's a MAME issue?

[Ken Layton]

All the classic Williams games have a three bank service switch assembly right on the coin door. The 3 switches are: "Advance" (for stepping thru the test mode), "Auto up/Manual down" (the direction thru the test mode), and "High Score Reset" (for simply resetting the high score to dates). There is no dip switch setting for test mode. You must use the coin door switches and the coin door must remain open (unlocked) in order to perform any tests as there is also a "Memory Protect" switch at the hinge of the coin door.

[FrizzleFried]

Hmm...I wonder how that works in MAME and whether or not it is emulated (should be).   

Anyone know?

[SirPeale]

(hint) Controls - This Game

[tranq]

The guy at Retroblast! just uses this Nokia utility, linked over there.

[FrizzleFried]

Edit: Nevermind...found.