Non-functional G07

[tristan]

I picked up a couple of Millipede cabinets, and one has a non-functional G07 in it. The game powers up and sound like it's playing, but I get no picture. The voltage is good (129V) to the monitor chassis. After looking at the wiring, it appears that only 2 wires actually run to the chassis, and the rest run to an unconnected plug. I was wondering if this monitor requires a remote adjustment board to function.

On picture:

1. Connection to chassis from game board
2. Red and White wires from game board to chassis
3. Unconnected plug.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks

[SirPeale]

Your unconnected plug looks like the video signal.  Is that plugged in?

[tristan]

No, there are two plugs. The one with the red and white wires from the game board is plugged into the chassis. The rest of the wires go the the unplugged one, then wires go from that plug back to the one plugged into the chassis. That's why I thought maybe it needed a remote adjustment board.

[tta583]

You said these were millipedes.  Dedicated cabinets??  That setup sort of reminds me of a light gun configuration I had in a Bally/Sente game.  They had a tap, or pass through plug arrangement similar to that to feed the board that controlled the light gun.  This allowed the game to time the monitor and figure out the shot placement.

One way or another if the wires from the plugged in connector lead back to the game board, even if they pass through that hanging connector, they are all electrically the same and should work.  Given, of course, none of them cross to the wrong pin (R pin on the chassis matches to Red on the game board, etc..)  or one off the additional splices/joints is bad.

[fredster]

G07s don't have remote boards.

When you plug it in, does it make a noise? Like it's firing up at all?

You need to download the manual for it. 

[grantspain]

that other plug is just probably for a different type of chassis that may have been used in that cab,you do get cabs from time to time that have wiring like this when the manufacturers used two different monitors depending on which was available at the time.
i think you should check the fuses first on the chassis

[Rickn]

Hi , here is the scoop, I was the Production Engineer at Electrohome here for the real G07.
So I might know a little bit?

Give me the the complete model# - I think you said 19" but the there will be others such as G07CB0....

We actually did over 50 versions, but most were based on the specific customer.

I will then try to go in to what I call my archives and see what we can dig up.

Rick Nieman

[Grauwulf]

No need to reinvent the wheel. There are a few easy checks you can do to make sure the monitor is powering up properly. If you're not sure if it's powering up by the sound, look at the neck, does it glow? If it does, turn up the screen control by the flyback. If you get a bright screen with retrace lines, your monitor is likely fine. If you do not see any glow in the neck, check the two fuses on the chassis with a multimeter, one of them is likely blown. The small one is the most common one to blow. If the small fuse is blown, you likely have a bad flyback transformer or a bad HOT. If the fuses test fine, the monitor is probably going in to high voltage shutdown. To test your B+ voltage, put your meter on the 200v DC scale, clip the ground to the metal frame of the chassis and test the voltage at the two terminals of the big ceramic resistor on the left side of the chassis frame (facing the monitor from the back). You should have 120v DC on one terminal and 145-165v (I'm going from memory here) on the other end. If both ends of the resistor have the same voltage, you either have a failed voltage regulator, or C511 has gone out of spec. Do a cap kit first and then replace the voltage regulator if the B+ voltage is still out of whack. I have repaired probably 30 of these monitors in the last year or so, they are a pleasure to work on because of he simplicity of the design, and give a nice picture when they are tuned up properly.

[Kevin Mullins]

Plug #3 in your pic is indeed the video signal connector that should be going to the monitor.
Most Millipedes originally came with TM202 Matsushita monitors which are notorious for bad tubes and loosing color guns.
This one might have been swapped out at some time, but for some reason they didn't finish hooking it up.
There is one setup for the Electrohome and Wells Gardner monitors and there is another setup for the Matsushita and Disco monitors shown in the pic below.
(you'll have to zoom in and scroll through it see it all, kinda a bad scan of the manual)

Do you get the high voltage static sound when you turn it on?



 

[Grauwulf]

It looks like his video is plugged in. If it is like my System 1 cabinets the harness is probably set up with two connectors, one for a monitor with seperate sync wires and one for a monitor that could handle composite sync.

[Ken Layton]

Atari games of this vintage were wired with two sets of monitor connectors. You choose the correct one to use depending the monitor that's installed in your game. The one for the Matsushita has a different pinout cause Matsushita wanted to be different than other monitor manufacturers. One of those groups of connectors is for using with Wells-Gardner and Electrohome monitors.

See also this:

www.homearcade.org/BBBB/sync.html

[tristan]

Sounds like it's trying to turn on (like the initial power rush sound), but I do not see any neck glow, or hear any static. I think I can hear a faint clicking sound that continues.

Model G07907 Picture attached. The monitor is mounted upside down, making it a bit tough to get a good look at.

[Ken Layton]

Read up at these links on the G07 series:

www.homearcade.org/BBBB/g07repair.html

www.homearcade.org/BBBB/g07note.html

www.homearcade.org/BBBB/g07notes.html

www.homearcade.org/BBBB/g07-1.html

www.homearcade.org/BBBB/g07lyot.html

[Grauwulf]

Have you done a cap kit on this monitor yet? Or at least tested the B+ voltage?

[tristan]

I hadn't pulled it out yet, as it's mounted kinda funny.

B+ voltage would be tested where? I tested the voltage at the plug, so I know juice is getting to the chassis. Beyond that, I haven't tested any voltages.

If I can get some time this evening, I'm going to try to swap the monitor for a G07CBO that I know is good to verify the issue is the monitor. I'll also order some caps and check out the fuses.

[Grauwulf]

See my reply about 7 responses up. It will walk you through testing your B+. If you need help, PM me, I'm happy to help.