Author Topic: CENTIPEDE cabaret Restoration - works again (Read 30619 times)

johnvv · « **Reply #40 on:** December 20, 2006, 11:59:40 pm »

Yes, those are rivets. Common on Atari games for mounting the speaker grill and other pieces onto the cab. I don't have a Centipede, but there should be another way to remove the marquee. Check the manual for the game (hosted at klov.com).

RayB · « **Reply #41 on:** December 21, 2006, 12:18:49 am »

They aren't bolts, and they aren't secruity bolts/screws either. They are "rivets" I guess... It's like a donut shape... I remember when I was a kid my dad had a tool for using those. It would take little metal cylinders and then it would squish them down to retain parts together.

arcadefever · « **Reply #42 on:** December 21, 2006, 01:47:06 am »

Quote from: RayB on December 21, 2006, 12:18:49 am

They aren't bolts, and they aren't secruity bolts/screws either. They are "rivets" I guess... It's like a donut shape... I remember when I was a kid my dad had a tool for using those. It would take little metal cylinders and then it would squish them down to retain parts together.

i see ... so to take them out, you have to break them ...and add new ones after ?

johnvv · « **Reply #43 on:** December 21, 2006, 04:25:29 pm »

Quote

i see ... so to take them out, you have to break them ...and add new ones after ?

Removing rivets from a wood cabinet cab be tough. You are likely to damage the wood trying to remove them. Finding the same size black rivets to replace them is even harder. Check the woodworking forum to see if any of the wood gurus there have any tips.

Based on my experience, I'd recommend leaving them alone. If you want to re-paint them, just do it with an artist's brush. Again, there should be another way to remove the marquee without having to mess with the rivets.

RayB · « **Reply #44 on:** January 18, 2007, 06:05:20 pm »

Doesn't seem to be.
It's a shame really, as I'd like to touch up some parts of the marquee, and the wood behind it. Same goes for the speaker grill. I need to clean it and un-bend it.

I assume drilling these out won't work?

ArcadeMaze · « **Reply #45 on:** January 18, 2007, 08:36:32 pm »

spriggy · « **Reply #46 on:** January 19, 2007, 05:55:38 am »

When removing rivets, use gentle even pressure on the drill, just so you pop'off the head of the rivet.... and not drill for oil! Then use a small sharp object to ease it out (easier said then done on some old machines, but can be done when careful).

Also, make sure you use a drill bit with a diameter smaller than the head of the rivet (and also smaller than the head of the REPLACEMENT rivet). That way, if you do touch wood, the head of the replacement rivet will cover the touch.

Good luck

RayB · « **Reply #47 on:** February 02, 2007, 11:11:36 pm »

I'll be posting pics tomorrow. It's all restored except for t-molding.

However, after re-assembling everything, the damn thing plays blind. Monitor has no neck glow (AGAIN!)

fredster · « **Reply #48 on:** February 06, 2007, 12:07:54 pm »

Is it the Xray Protection Cap loose?

RayB · « **Reply #49 on:** February 18, 2007, 06:17:09 pm »

Ignoring the monitor problem for the moment (no time) here are some restoration pics. It's not 100% yet, but almost there. I just need to finish the rebuilt "front side" with paint or some sort of stick-on laminate that matches the wood grain. (So far, haven't found any that matches).

I painted worn edges and scratches on the sides using a mix of Testors model paints. (I got a reddish brown, a beige and black and mixed them as needed to match the woood grain. At a glance you can no longer see the scratches and gouges).

The front black area I opted to use stick-on textured black laminate (from PartsExpress). I like that kind of smooth finish much more than the results of hand-painting would give.

RayB · « **Reply #50 on:** February 18, 2007, 06:19:16 pm »

Lastly, before and after of the control panel:

arcadefever · « **Reply #51 on:** February 19, 2007, 02:14:05 am »

that control panel look GREAT !!!!
The trackball is brand new ? so whyte

great job !!!! but your MAME panel is still my favorite

RayB · « **Reply #52 on:** February 19, 2007, 09:31:56 am »

Yes new ball. I regret not getting a "snow white" one though. Those ones are as white as the fire button you see there. (But cost $18!!)

I forgot this pic of the front with laminate applied, and the repainted coin box:

spriggy · « **Reply #53 on:** February 20, 2007, 07:45:09 am »

Ahhh... another classic soon to be saved... nice work RayB!!

Grauwulf · « **Reply #54 on:** February 20, 2007, 11:16:46 pm »

I'm glad you got it instead of me, I probably wouldn't have put 1/2 the work in to it that you are.

FrizzleFried · « **Reply #55 on:** February 21, 2007, 09:46:10 am »

If the speaker grills are the same as my Atari cocktail, they appear to be rivets...bloody rivets!

RayB · « **Reply #56 on:** February 21, 2007, 02:22:54 pm »

Rivets are all gone. Now using black carriage bolts instead.

Level42 · « **Reply #57 on:** March 06, 2007, 11:05:07 am »

Hey Ray, great job !!!! Any "finished" pictures ??

Why didn't I find this thread earlier ? I envy you, you always seem to have (working) PCB's on the same cabs we have

(Remember Domino's)

I also wondered about the marquee retainers on my Centipede....what a stupid idea to use rivets !

I had the same thought as Arcadefever, I have exactly the same bit set here (kinda forgot to give it back to my former employer....sorry

) and I thought one of those would make it possible to remove them...good I read this !

I must say in general that Atari has the wost "service-friendly" cabs from what I have here so far.....I mean, you need to remove the staples of the carton bezel to get the monitor out !
(well you know what really happems, the bezel just tears and the staples stay in....not a big problem though, it's out of sight and indeed they're not needed.)

Than the power supply......a whole range of weird voltages are required...They are all fine on mine....but the PCB doesn't work....

(Check out http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=63654.0)

Wanna trade your Centipede PCB for all the Dominos parts you want

For now, I won't do much on the Centipede...Gotta get the last things done on the Galaxian, and I just won a PCB set for my Mario Bros. It's untested so please, let me be lucky for once so that it's working......

RayB · « **Reply #58 on:** March 06, 2007, 11:30:53 am »

Hey. All is not that good though. Didn't you read that my monitor, that I repaired, stopped working?

I doubt rivets were used for your marquee retainers. Are you sure they aren't security bits? That's what Atari always uses for regular marquees. Mine just isn't supposed to be removed. There's no "service" reason to. Same for the speaker grill. If the speaker needs servicing, it can be accessed via the inside.

Level42 · « **Reply #59 on:** March 06, 2007, 01:24:23 pm »

Quote from: RayB on March 06, 2007, 11:30:53 am

Hey. All is not that good though. Didn't you read that my monitor, that I repaired, stopped working?

I doubt rivets were used for your marquee retainers. Are you sure they aren't security bits? That's what Atari always uses for regular marquees. Mine just isn't supposed to be removed. There's no "service" reason to. Same for the speaker grill. If the speaker needs servicing, it can be accessed via the inside.

You're right, I just checked the Service manual, these are bolts....duh !

Gotta also say that the Atari service docs are probably the best I've seen so far .....

Yeah, I read about your monitor...did you check F901 ? Mine is blown and I measure a short on X01....you could also power it on and GENTLY tap on the PCB's and see if anything happens (use a mirror). If so, bad solder joints...

And did you check out the video wiring you mentioned earlier ?

RayB · « **Reply #60 on:** March 06, 2007, 02:06:23 pm »

Quote from: Level42 on March 06, 2007, 01:24:23 pm

Yeah, I read about your monitor...did you check F901 ? Mine is blown and I measure a short on X01....you could also power it on and GENTLY tap on the PCB's and see if anything happens (use a mirror). If so, bad solder joints...

And did you check out the video wiring you mentioned earlier ?

Yes, that was all in regards to the first stage. After bringing the machine home. I got it repaired and working 100%. It's after re-assembly after restoring parts that it once again had no neck glow (but getting 120v). Fuses look good. Anyways, Ill be looking it proper soon...

RayB · « **Reply #61 on:** March 12, 2007, 11:22:40 am »

Took out chassis. Saw no visible problems. Reflowed some solder joints just for the hell of it. Re-connected chassis. Power on. Works. Just needs some H width adjustment.

Level42 · « **Reply #62 on:** March 12, 2007, 12:55:36 pm »

Good to hear it's ok now

RayB · « **Reply #63 on:** March 12, 2007, 05:42:52 pm »

The almost "finished" pic:
(No tmolding on left side -- Posting this now because it could be months before I fix up the final cosmetic issue)

RayB · « **Reply #64 on:** March 31, 2009, 04:22:17 pm »

This is my cat playing Centipede. Yes, he figured out how to make the ball spin!

"I SHOOTZ UR SPIDERZ"

I have still not finished up that left side.
... and the monitor stopped working again.

RayB · « **Reply #65 on:** June 22, 2009, 11:16:30 am »

After a trip to the basement, the monitor decided to work again. I don't know enough about monitors to figure out what could be affecting power to it before and after being moved. Quite strange.

Replaced the off-white ball with a nice snow-white one. What a difference that makes!

Next up, attempting to converge the colors! (Should I do it??)

SirPeale · « **Reply #66 on:** June 22, 2009, 12:55:40 pm »

If it works after a move, something is loose: cold solder joint, card not plugged in tightly, connector askew, etc.

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #67 on:** June 23, 2009, 02:20:32 am »

One thing that gets overlooked a lot is the monitors AC connector pins. I've seen many a flaky on/off monitors because the pins don't have enough tension when connected.
Turn the machine on, if the monitor does not come on....push and pull on that connector a bit and see if the monitor fires up. (or vice versa, it dies)

Level42 · « **Reply #68 on:** June 24, 2009, 05:21:31 am »

OK.....so what's the cat's high score?

spriggy · « **Reply #69 on:** June 24, 2009, 07:16:52 am »

Wow... been a few years since I was regular on the forum. Revitalised my dead arcade batteries after about 3 years.. and back headlong into my old projects with juvenile vigor

So... what a nice way to return to the forums, to see this old lady looking so lovely (that sounded a bit poofy $:-\$ )

Looks gr8 RayB.. well done.


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