7194 in a Virtua Fighter (Please help)

[MYX]

Hey all, I won a Virtua fighter at the auction this past weekend. When I say won, I mean won. I got it for $10 cause it was on the dead row. The thing is that there was a patch plug on the audio that was un plugged and the monitor was not hooked up. $10 no one else was bidding. Sure I'll take it. So I go home and hook it up and power it on. I immediatly start to hear sound. I ran around to the front and coined it up. It did. I started pressing buttons and I could hear stuff happening. A working game!!! Now the monitor. I did a search last night and found a previous thread about the WG7000 series. I got the pin out for the RGB Gnd Sync. I only had about 10 minutes so I went down stairs and cut the connector off the RGB and Gnd Sync cables as they were these big silly looking things. I put some female connectors that go in PCs on the wires as they were just a little bigger than the pins on the monitor board. I powered it up and heard wwwweeeeeeeee scream out of the monitor. YES!!! it Is ALIVE ha ha haaaaaa. I ran around to the front and there was a picture, very bright and rich in color. BUT the picture was all wonky. It was not really wavy, more like out of sync. This morning I went back down stairs and started adjusting the V and H hold. I had also adjust the 50-60 hz adjust as well. I got a solid picture but it was like it was seperated into 3s. example... Line 1 in position 1 , line 2 in position 2 (starting about 40 % across the screen), line 3 in position 3 (starting about 75 - 80 % across the screen) next line position 1...
I did everything I could think of. I once had a similar issue on a ms. pac and it required a cap kit. This may be the same solution here, but I wanted to get your thoughts.

Oh, ps, I found that I could get closer to a real picture using the +Hoz Sync vs. the -Hoz sync. Is this ok?
Also, just so you don't freak out due to the pictures, no of the pins are touching, this is a temporary solution for hooking up the monitor for right now while I assess the situation inside.

[Ken Layton]

I believe your game must have had the monitor swapped with the wrong one. I think your game needs a medium res monitor and a Wells-Gardner 25k7194 is standard res! You will destroy the monitor if you keep feeding it that signal. This game originally was supplied with a Nanao monitor.

[MYX]

Are you serious? Crap! I do not have $400+ for a higher res 25 in monitor. (Or was it a 27)
Ok, then... Subject change...
Then is this a part out cabinet?
I'd keep the monitor, but sell the innerds.
If I put the boards on ebay do I list them all together or do I put the PS separate from the sound separate from the mains?

[grantspain]

maybe your only way out of this is to buy a 25k to 15k converter or change the game board

[SirPeale]

Wow...$10 for a working K7000 25".  I'd murder a village of people for one.

[MYX]

Which village?

[SirPeale]

Which village?

Any one.  Preferably one with lots of seniors and small children.

[MYX]

 

Just curious, but why is this a desired monitor?
BTW, I see no visible screen burn, is it because it is bigger than the 19s or is it just because it is newer or both?

[Kevin Mullins]

Just curious, but why is this a desired monitor?

Because it's a 25" and it works.
They are getting hard to come by.

And Ken is right, those are suppose to have medium resolution monitors in them. We had one for awhile, then it got converted into a Golden Tee.
Nice cabinets. I think there were two styles. Ours had the gold color scheme, gold t-molding, etc.
Do you have a pic of the cabinet?

[MYX]

I can take some. It has silver t-moulding. the left side tmoulding was hanging off of it and looped inside through the monitor area. (No bezel). If I part this out, I may put up the cab if the buyer / taker promises not to kill the side are. Asside from a couple of scratches, the side art is georgous. The marquee is really nice too. I do not remember it being mirrored. 

[TravistyOJ]

Yeah i use to have one of these cabinets.  It was converted to a NFL Blitz.  The cabinet is a beast.  In fact the reason I had to say goodbye was because I couldnt fit it in the game room of my new house. 

[SirPeale]

Just curious, but why is this a desired monitor?

Because it's a 25" and it works.
They are getting hard to come by.

Not only that, but K7000s are dead easy to fix when they go bad, and they don't go bad often.

[Grauwulf]

Not only that, but K7000s are dead easy to fix when they go bad, and they don't go bad often.

I wish I could agree with you, but K7000's are my nemesis. I have two of them here that even have Randy Fromm and Ken stumped. I would have pitched them months ago if it wasn't for the fact I hate to admit defeat. But I will say they do not fail very often.

[Kevin Mullins]

I have two of them here that even have Randy Fromm and Ken stumped. I would have pitched them months ago if it wasn't for the fact I hate to admit defeat.

WooHoo! ... A challenge.
Plan on messing with them anytime soon?
Start a new thread.
Oh, and if you think K7000 are bad...try a U5000. 
(but I won that battle)

[SirPeale]

I have two of them here that even have Randy Fromm and Ken stumped. I would have pitched them months ago if it wasn't for the fact I hate to admit defeat.

WooHoo! ... A challenge.
Plan on messing with them anytime soon?
Start a new thread.
Oh, and if you think K7000 are bad...try a U5000. 
(but I won that battle)

Agreed!  U5000 = teh b4d.

Grauwulf: have a link to your old repair thread?

[Grauwulf]

Linkage

This is the only one I could find, but I'm sure there was more than one. Basicaly all the parts that normally will take out a HOT have been replaced. C36, C38, D18, and flyback have all been changed. I found out after the fact that a bad voltage regulator is what has caused the damage. I only found this out becasue I swapped the voltage regulator on to another chassis that I was working on and promptly killed that chassis.

I now have two working theories. I'm only going on an educated guess here, but the horizontal output circuit probably draws more than the 5A the 2sd1398 is capable of handling, but because of the frequency that it is being switched on and off, it is not 'seeing' more than the 5A it can handle. So that leaves me with two possible scenarios, one, something downstream from the HOT is shorted, or drawing more current than it should, and is causing the HOT to 'see' more current than it can take.  Theory #2 is that something is causing the frequency the HOT is switched at to be off spec and is causing the HOT to be on too long and kill itself with the current.

As you can see, the original post was from December of last year, I have been doing this:  ever since then. I have burned through more HOT's than I can count, it's getting very expensive, but I don't like to admit defeat.

And I have not had the pleasure of working on a U500 yet, even though I have a dead one here I haven't looked at yet, but I have worked on a 27k7500, which is almost the exact same thing.

[SirPeale]

So you've replaced the voltage regulator by now, I'm sure, a STR30130.  And it's still blowing fuses and HOT?  My guess?  Blown flyback.

[Grauwulf]

Flyback has been switched with a known good working one off another monitor.

[grantspain]

is there a polypropylene cap on the collecter pin of the h.o.t?