Too much blue (WG K7000)

[MaximRecoil]

The blues in this monitor are too strong. The colors all look good, but blue objects on the screen are very, very blue and in some cases, the blue bleeds out over the boundaries of the object a little bit. Both the blue drive and the blue cut off pots on the neckboard are turned down as far as they will go. Of course, turning them up makes the blues bleed out past the edges of blue objects even more.

[Ken Layton]

I've seen the drive and/or cutoff pots on the neckboard go bad. One section of the pot will go "open" circuit and not allow full adjustment. You have to unsolder and remove the pot(s) from the neckboard to properly test. This is so you don't get false readings.

Sometimes the brightness/contrast/screen controls are misadjusted too.

[MaximRecoil]

The pots could simply be replaced couldn't they? These would be locations VR201 to VR206, the odd numbers being the cut off pots and the even numbers being the drive pots. The cut off pots are identified as "CTRL 2K" and the drive pots are identified as "CTRL 200"

The drive pots are "Trim Pot 200K Ohm .5W" (040X0653-001)
The cut off pots are 040X0653-003 but I don't see a description.

It looks like Happ carries these. Would a regular electronics place like Mouser or Jameco carry them as well, like something like -- link -- for the "Trim Pot 200K Ohm .5W" (040X0653-001) and -- link -- for the "CTRL 2K"?

[Kevin Mullins]

Just so you realize... those CTRL 200's are 200 Ohm...   NOT 200"K" Ohm. (which is 200,000 Ohm)

VR201 040X0653-003 CTRL 2K
VR202 040X0653-001 CTRL 200
VR203 040X0653-003 CTRL 2K
VR204 040X0653-001 CTRL 200
VR205 040X0653-003 CTRL 2K
VR206 040X0653-001 CTRL 200

[MaximRecoil]

Just so you realize... those CTRL 200's are 200 Ohm...   NOT 200"K" Ohm. (which is 200,000 Ohm)

VR201 040X0653-003 CTRL 2K
VR202 040X0653-001 CTRL 200
VR203 040X0653-003 CTRL 2K
VR204 040X0653-001 CTRL 200
VR205 040X0653-003 CTRL 2K
VR206 040X0653-001 CTRL 200

I was just going by Happ's description of that reference number:



http://www.happcontrols.com/monitors/49125000.htm

That reference number is listed under "P719 Neck Board Assembly" for "WELLS GARDNER
U2000-U5000 MONITORS" which of course is not the monitor I have, but I figured that the same reference number would reference the same part. For some reason they don't list the "040X0653-001" reference number under "ELECTRONIC PARTS FOR WELLS GARDNER K7000 (P456) NECK BOARD"; they only list the "040X0653-003 Control 2K" pot.

So, can I use those pots from Jameco that I linked to, provided I match the values to what the originals are? They are a good deal cheaper than the pots from Happ.

[Kevin Mullins]

Yeah , I see what you were looking at.
If you shoot me your e-mail via a PM or just shoot me an e-mail and I can send you what I have on the spec sheet for the K7000.
Spec Sheet, Flowchart, and the general manual.
Sometimes the potentiometers themselves have some markings on them. (not always)

I personally don't see why those from Jameco wouldn't work.
They are rated at .5 watt, which I would think would be enough.
You may have to tweek the legs to fit the footprint on the pcb.
And obviously the adjustment has to be made with a tool instead of the fingers.

I don't know if maybe Ken or anyone else has tried that and could give their opinion.

[Ken Layton]

Bob Roberts sells the exact correct pots on his site. The ones for the neckboard are "vertical" mount.

[MaximRecoil]

I fixed the problem without spending a dime. Ken Layton was correct when he said:

Sometimes the brightness/contrast/screen controls are misadjusted too.

I called the Wells-Gardner tech support line just to see what they had to say about it and he mentioned that the cutoff pots should be turned all the way down and the drive pots should be about halfway up for proper white balance, or something like that. Now, I already had everything, including the drive pots all the way down (counter-clockwise) and turning them halfway up I knew would make the problem seem worse; and it did ... colors bleeding all over the place.

I figured that would be a good baseline to start with though and I could work backwards from there with the screen/brightness/contrast pots. It worked good and everything is perfect now -- no color bleeding or overly strong colors; and the flesh tone of the character you control looks right too.