Main > Main Forum

Q-bert controls software asjustment ?

<< < (9/17) > >>

jcroach:

--- Quote from: ahofle on June 16, 2006, 11:15:26 am ---
--- Quote from: jcroach on June 16, 2006, 08:16:19 am ---
--- Quote from: ahofle on May 25, 2006, 07:03:43 pm ---
--- Quote from: Level42 on May 25, 2006, 06:47:41 pm ---Ahofle: THAT SUCKS !!!  :banghead: :banghead: Is it fixed in 1.06 ?

--- End quote ---

Nope it's still broken.  :(
I opened a bugreport on mametesters back when it happened, but I'm sure it isn't a priority for them.  I actually did a diff on the source code between v104 and v105 and saw some LED stuff that changed, but nothing that looked obviously wrong to me.  I really need to get a source environment and compiler setup.

--- End quote ---

Does this include the flashing Player 1 start and Player 2 start [Num Lock] and [Caps lock] LEDS

--- End quote ---

Yep, that's exactly what's broken.   :(

--- End quote ---

DAMN.  I just upgraded from 0.95 to 0.105  I'm going to have to find a copy of 0.104 or my atari volcano buttons are going to go to waste..............

Level42:

--- Quote from: SirPoonga on June 16, 2006, 12:21:39 pm ---Actually, thinking about it, even though the solenoids are rated 27V doesn't that mean it takes 27V to trigger them?  So 30V is probably safe for them.  All you are doing is powering up a coil of wire to make an electromagnet.  I know someone recently asked me if a resiter is needed to knock 30V down to 27V.  This isn't a LED that will burn out quicker, just an electromagnet.

Level42, I like that design.  If you find the right parts I would probably go with that.  It would be a fast mechanism to.

--- End quote ---

Well, first: the 3 Volts more or less won't matter much. The coil is getting a very short pulse only. I bet it never actualy reaches the full 30/27 Volts but at those ratings 3 Volts doesn't really matter much, and indeed it's a coil getting the voltage, nothing very delicate. No need for resistors.

Indeed, this will be a lot faster then a relay, my feeling is a relay won't work because of the short pulse.

This is what Brad says in his e-mail to me:
______________________________________________________________
The triggering needs to last a mere fraction of a second.  A half second is
wayyyyy too long.  In my Q*MAME code, it is turning on the LED and turning
off without any delay at all.  It should be the least amount of time
possible.  I didn't want to use a relay because I thought it would be more
likely that a relay could get stuck in the ON position, which would not be
good.
______________________________________________________________


Thanks, I do hope it works though ;) Gotta build it first but the 30 Volts on the Base of the darlington (through the optoisolator) worries me a bit. I think it'll need a resisitor there.

Level42:
I updated me design with an extra (much needed !!!) resistor. It's still a DESIGN only, not built yet and not tested !!!

SirPoonga:
I will definately go your route though if the signal in the real game which lasts that long can trigger a solenoid it can trigger a relay.  It's all electromagnets anyway:)

juggle50:
Nice work Level 42!!!  I don't have a clue what your diagram means as I am a Theatre Major/ Philosophy minor but it's clear you know your stuff and I feel a bit sheepish about trying to give you help before when you clearly know way more than I do.

So I'm a little confused now.  I would still like to try the set up using a ledwiz.  In your opinions (Sir Poonga and Level 42) should I or should I not use a relay?  And if I don't, what should I use instead.  I was kind of looking forward to the simplicity of the relay diagram as I don't feel comfortable building a board.

I ordered my resistors to knock the 30 volts down to 27 but it's pretty clear now that those won't be necessary so I won't worry soldering them on.

thank you for your help

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page

Go to full version