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Q-bert controls software asjustment ?
jcroach:
--- Quote from: ahofle on May 25, 2006, 07:03:43 pm ---
--- Quote from: Level42 on May 25, 2006, 06:47:41 pm ---Ahofle: THAT SUCKS !!! :banghead: :banghead: Is it fixed in 1.06 ?
--- End quote ---
Nope it's still broken. :(
I opened a bugreport on mametesters back when it happened, but I'm sure it isn't a priority for them. I actually did a diff on the source code between v104 and v105 and saw some LED stuff that changed, but nothing that looked obviously wrong to me. I really need to get a source environment and compiler setup.
--- End quote ---
Does this include the flashing Player 1 start and Player 2 start [Num Lock] and [Caps lock] LEDS
Level42:
This is my idea on an improved schematic for the knocker driver. Although I'm an electronics service engineer, I normaly do not actualy design schematics so any help is welcome.
It's basicaly still the same thing Brad and John (from John's Retroarcade: http://www.johnsretroarcade.com/hardware_knocker.asp) designed, but I added the optoisolator because I don't think it's a safe thing to connect the 30 Volts of the knocker power supply to the I-Pac/J-Pac. I know it won't hurt normaly, but if anything goes wrong (wrond wiring, transistor blow up) you could be feeding the 30V into the J-pac's output.
By using the optoisolator, the I-pac/J=pac circuit and the knocker circuit are completely seperated from eachother electricaly.
I think this will work. I already found some optoisolators that can have the 30V on the collector, but need to see what's easily available.
The only worry I have is if there needs to be a current limiting resistor between the emitter of the optoisolator and the base of the darlington transistor.
Anyone ?
SirPoonga:
--- Quote from: Level42 on June 16, 2006, 06:55:27 am ---Well, I'm not sure if the trigger pulse that is sent out to the LED by QMAME is long enough to move the relay. I mailed Brad about how long that pulse is and let you know.
--- End quote ---
4 to 5 qbert clock cycles on my machine, assuming he is sending the signal on the state changes in the driver.
One could use a timer in mame to activate the the knocker to.
ahofle:
--- Quote from: jcroach on June 16, 2006, 08:16:19 am ---
--- Quote from: ahofle on May 25, 2006, 07:03:43 pm ---
--- Quote from: Level42 on May 25, 2006, 06:47:41 pm ---Ahofle: THAT SUCKS !!! :banghead: :banghead: Is it fixed in 1.06 ?
--- End quote ---
Nope it's still broken. :(
I opened a bugreport on mametesters back when it happened, but I'm sure it isn't a priority for them. I actually did a diff on the source code between v104 and v105 and saw some LED stuff that changed, but nothing that looked obviously wrong to me. I really need to get a source environment and compiler setup.
--- End quote ---
Does this include the flashing Player 1 start and Player 2 start [Num Lock] and [Caps lock] LEDS
--- End quote ---
Yep, that's exactly what's broken. :(
SirPoonga:
Actually, thinking about it, even though the solenoids are rated 27V doesn't that mean it takes 27V to trigger them? So 30V is probably safe for them. All you are doing is powering up a coil of wire to make an electromagnet. I know someone recently asked me if a resiter is needed to knock 30V down to 27V. This isn't a LED that will burn out quicker, just an electromagnet.
Level42, I like that design. If you find the right parts I would probably go with that. It would be a fast mechanism to.
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