Author Topic: Can we talk glue? (Read 6068 times)

rackoon · « **on:** April 27, 2006, 08:43:39 pm »

OK. I am getting ready to glue together my cocktail cab. I have dowels on all seems. All the sides are made of oak plywood (expensive stuff). I know that glue is going to leak out of seems as I clamp it together. I am hoping that I could use a glue that is water solable so that I can wipe the overspill. Can anyone recommend a Glue?

I have looked at Whammocade's site and noticed that he has used tightbond on his cab. This is what I was thinking of using.

Can someone of experience give me some advice as to what glue to use? Keep in mind that I will be staining the cab and the glue must not interfer with this process.

Any input would be great, thanks.

Quarterhorse · « **Reply #1 on:** April 27, 2006, 09:08:34 pm »

I just completed my cab and did fine with carpenter's glue. Cheap and easy to clean up. If you can clamp the sides afterwards it is quite strong. Of course, mine had braces on the inside of the cabinet to add strength and not dowels. But for the price, I wouldn't hesitate on it.

Breaker · « **Reply #2 on:** April 27, 2006, 09:24:45 pm »

Yep - any good carpenter's glue will do the trick (the stuff I used was yellow) ; if you clamp it well it will hold as strong as screws!

One tip I would recommend is to avoid the urge to wipe off the glue that might seep out of the joins. It's much easier to go along with a putty knife and knock off the seepage after it's dry.

Breaker.

MYX · « **Reply #3 on:** April 27, 2006, 10:18:06 pm »

I also used Elmers carpenters glue(lots of it). It worked great.

GoPodular.com · « **Reply #4 on:** April 27, 2006, 10:27:22 pm »

Quote from: breaker on April 27, 2006, 09:24:45 pm

One tip I would recommend is to avoid the urge to wipe off the glue that might seep out of the joins. It's much easier to go along with a putty knife and knock off the seepage after it's dry.

I agree. Let it dry and then just scrape it off. That's how kitchen cabinets are made.

electricd · « **Reply #5 on:** April 27, 2006, 10:34:09 pm »

Gorilla Glue....expensive, but a GREAT bond and pretty easy to cleanup in my experience!

davieboynj · « **Reply #6 on:** April 27, 2006, 11:26:15 pm »

Quote from: electricd on April 27, 2006, 10:34:09 pm

Gorilla Glue....expensive, but a GREAT bond and pretty easy to cleanup in my experience!

If you use gorilla glue, make sure you don't use too much. the stuff expands and leaks out of cracks like nothing else. I actually had a lot of trouble cleaning it off where it leaked out.

with all respect to electricd, i would recommend against gorilla glue unless you need a ridiculous amount of strength, and you need something to expand in a gap.

edit: fixed butchery of electricd's name

MikeDeuce · « **Reply #7 on:** April 28, 2006, 12:09:20 am »

Titebond III is slowly replacing all the stuff I used to use Gorilla glue for. It's just so much easier to clean up, and I don't get a case of "Gorilla hands" when I get it all over myself.

Titebond III cleans up with water, but it's supposed to be waterproof once dry. It also has the highest bond strength and the longest open assembly time (10min) of the 3 variations of their woodworking glue, so all those things combined usually make me grab that bottle.

StormGiant · « **Reply #8 on:** April 28, 2006, 11:57:17 am »

I use Titebond III now for all my woodworking projects, and it's what I used for my cab. I was a dedicated Gorilla Glue user, but it is more of a hassle to use, and in my experience the shelf life isn't great.

jmelan · « **Reply #9 on:** April 28, 2006, 12:18:50 pm »

Another vote for Titebond III. I used it on my cabinet and all of my recent woodworking projects.

Lilwolf · « **Reply #10 on:** April 28, 2006, 12:53:33 pm »

I would recommend not gluing your entire cab together. I've heard of people who NEEDED to tear their cab down partially to get them in locations.

So glue parts... and use extra screws in the others if possible.

Who was the guy who built an entire cab in his parents basement... and ended up couldn't get it up the stairs and out... and the way he built it, there was no breaking it down.

electricd · « **Reply #11 on:** April 28, 2006, 02:03:49 pm »

Sounds like I need to try Titebond III

rackoon · « **Reply #12 on:** April 29, 2006, 05:40:16 pm »

Thanks for the input guys.

I suppose I will use Tightbond III.

I wonder how much of a mark or stain overspill will make on oak playwood.

I have some tricky spots with lots of oak base and quarter round and all need to be glued. Can I wipe excess of with sponge after clamping without it leaving a mark?

Maybe I will do some tests this weekend.

MikeDeuce · « **Reply #13 on:** April 29, 2006, 08:05:48 pm »

Wipes clean with water, assuming it's not dried already

Maverick · « **Reply #14 on:** July 27, 2006, 07:19:33 pm »

I use Titebond 1 for all my guitar projects. Gorilla and others alike dry too hard and become brittle over time. Titebond 1 is the preferred glue for laminating boards, headstock repairs etc...
Definitely what I'll be using on my cab project.

miles2912 · « **Reply #15 on:** July 29, 2006, 08:22:51 pm »

Another vote for titebond. My brotherin law is a finish carpenter and he swares by the stuff. Just keep a damp shop towel handy and when it runs just wipe it up. Don't wait for it to dry. It cleans up much easier when wet.

D-

DigDreams · « **Reply #16 on:** July 30, 2006, 04:32:46 am »

I used LocTite Power Grab and I couldn't be more pleased with how it works. It's sticky but not runny when applied (it goes on like caulk), and dries rock-solid.

Home Depot carries it. I think it was around $8.

- DigDreams

javeryh · « **Reply #17 on:** July 31, 2006, 12:58:39 pm »

I used regular wood glue and clamps to assemble my cocktail cabinet. It is unbelievably solid. If I ever dropped it or something I think the wood would fail before the glue at the joints - it's that strong.

rackoon · « **Reply #18 on:** August 01, 2006, 03:26:14 pm »

Do you think that the stain will soak into the wood and wreck the glue bond?

javeryh · « **Reply #19 on:** August 01, 2006, 03:28:50 pm »

Quote from: rackoon on August 01, 2006, 03:26:14 pm

Do you think that the stain will soak into the wood and wreck the glue bond?

Nope. I stained mine and the joints are as strong as ever.

rackoon · « **Reply #20 on:** August 01, 2006, 06:28:17 pm »

I only ask because I believe that I used "Liquid Nails" on a project and I let the glue get sloppy in areas that no one could see. Then, when I put stain on these areas the glue went from hard to gummy.

Maverick · « **Reply #21 on:** August 01, 2006, 07:22:06 pm »

Well I personally have never seen an cabinet/furniture builder stain then assemble.
If you have ever watched Norm Abrams on TV building all his stuff he glues, tacks , wipes excess glue and lets dry. Then sand, stain and clearcoat.

To assemble a project for fit, then take it apart to finish all sides is twice the work and unnecessary.
Stain has solvents in it that can react to the glue and eventually cause the joint to become loose.
What may seem to work for some people may be ok for awhile, but will it be 2,5,10 years from now.

Do some research across the net to get some facts, cause what might work for 1 person may not work for you.

Here is a good link to get you started http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_improvement/furniture/1273086.html?page=3&c=y


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