Replacement for wells 4600 - (not working)

[sp0rk]

I have 1 more wells to replace the chassis on.  It's for a light gun game, the screen is too dark to register shots.  It's a 10 pin wells, I believe a 4600 (which I've heard nightmares about anyway).  Just wanted to double check which chassis from Alva would replace this.

 Thanks!

[grantspain]

Am i being really stupid but why don't you just turn up your colour and brightness controls

[Ken Layton]

If you've capkitted, resoldered any bad solder joints, and readjusted all controls properly you should have a good picture. I'm assuming you adjusted the "black level control" (a.k.a. brightness) on the video interface board and the screen control pot on the neckboard, right?

If the picture is still too dark after that then you may have a weak picture tube. A new chassis would not fix that, but a picture tube rejuvenator might.

[sp0rk]

Monitor used to work fine, now it spazes out everywhre, the brightness is up as high as it goes now, and it has folding issues.  The screen was bad to begin with and had horizontal adjustment issues, and several of the pots are broken on the chassis.  I'd much rather just replace the whole chassis, as this one is old and in rough shape.  It worked for like 1 week (it was in storage forever before, i'm sure)

I'm not sure whether to replace with the KM2015G or 1220H chassis.  Both are listed for WG 10 pins. 

Thanks

[Ken Layton]

Get the 1220H chassis.

[sp0rk]

Ok, I've done like 3 monitors with the wei ya chassis, no problems with any of them, all worked 1st time.

This one, I can't get working.  It's almost like there is no power to the chassis/monitor.  I've double checked to make sure I have the anode wire in  place, the yoke wires are correctly attached, the double pin is in place on the board, and the black wire to the neckboard is ok.  My power looks like it's hooked up fine, and RGB + ground + sync are hooked up ok. 

When I turn the game on, I get nothing.  The neck of the monitor isn't even glowing.  I'm a little hesetant to probe any more until I let it sit for a while again.  I can't think what else could be wrong.  I might try to take the power cables and hook them up directly (I re-attached them to the old moltex connector from the old monitor).

Any idea what could be wrong?   (the tube/monito was working before - just had x/y issues.  This is  a 1220H chassis for a WGG 4600)

[Ken Layton]

Hairline crack in the monitor boards? Remote adjustment boards plugged in? Fuses verified good with a ohmmeter? Connectors and cables verified good?

[sp0rk]

Fuses:  Check
Cables: Check
Can't find any cracks, etc.

There are two places to plug in the wires from the yolk, should I try the second slot? (1 right next to each other). 
Also, no remote adjustment board that I know of (at least I don't have one). 

After double tracing some of the wires, I see the main power is hooked into the isolation transformer, then to the powersupply/monitor power.  Could this have anything to do with it?  (as opposed to running a separate line to an iso transformer then to the monitor) I can't imagine it would make a difference, as the 4600 powered up. 

Thanks for the help so far.

[sp0rk]

Ok wierd.  Today when I got home, double checked the wires again, etc, it works fine. 

The screen is a little light and it took a LOT of adjusting to get it to show a proper picture, but now it's working nicely.  Picture is still a little 'washed' - I'll probably try to get a tube rejuvinator to see if that will help it.

Thanks for the help.  I wish I knew what was wrong with it, but it works now, so 

[Q*Bert_OP]

whoa there, a tube rejuv. costs around 2k

[Ken Layton]

There are plenty of used picture tube restorer/analyzers (a.k.a. rejuvenators) on ebay. Many sell in the $50 to $100 range.

If you wanted to buy a brand new one the B&K units sell for around $1,000 whereas the Sencore goes for around $2,000.