Help Please, WG19K7610 goes "off" after @ 10 minutes, game still running

[JLR2000]

A few years back I purchased a neo geo cab with a monitor, control panel and jamma harness with plans to mame it using the Arcade VGA.  Never got time to do it so it's been sitting. Lately I picked up an old Jamma board just to make sure it ran, it does and the screen looks beautiful.....for about 10 minutes and then it looks like it's been turned off (just like a tv).  The game is still running b/c I hear the music and noise from service credits.  If I power off and on immediately I get the same thing (no picture). If I power off and WAIT 5 seconds, then power on the screen is back.

It's a Well Gardner monitor 19K7610.  It's not the jamma game b/c I verified with another board.  Any thoughts?  I'm wondering if it's power supply related or something?? I know NOTHING about arcade monitors and I'm hoping this will be a minor item to resolve.  Anything you guys could suggest would be most appreciated....

Thanks in advance.

[JLR2000]

Okay, so I did some searching and found the manual.  In a basic troubleshooting guide it asks if the "CRT Filiment" is lit (if the monitor is dark).  I found this and confirmed that the CRT Filiment is lit when first powered on, after 10 mins (+/-) the monitor goes off and the CRT filiment is off.  If I power cycle the CRT filiment stays off (as well as the monitor).  If I power down, wait 5 seconds, then power up the monitor (and filiment) are lit again (for another 10 +/- minutes). Next step says to "check filiment circuit".  Not sure where to check next.... I'm not sure if this gives any of you with monitor knowledge any more to go on, but I thought I'd post to see.

Manual link:
http://www.hardmvs.com/manuals/wg-k7000.pdf

Thanks again.

[Ken Layton]

You have a Wells-Gardner k7000 series monitor and it needs a capkit.

[SirPeale]

Sounds like the monitor is going into a protect mode.

[JLR2000]

I've never done a cap kit, are they difficult to do?  Expensive, dangerous, etc?  I've dabbled with electricity and soldering, but not a whole lot....

How can I confirm if it's going into "protect" mode?  How do I prevent that, if I even can.....

Thanks for the responses.....

[Ken Layton]

Believe me, this monitor is plenty old enough and it needs a capkit.

[JLR2000]

Believe me, this monitor is plenty old enough and it needs a capkit.

Ken - I've been searching around plenty tonight and I've run across your name on all kinds of monitor related forums other than here, you are believed! 

I found a write up on how to do a cap kit....it was pretty good but to a complete noob it's still a little intimidating.  I've discharged an old monitor before (no pop btw for me) so I'm not freaked out by that, I'm just wondering if it's just as simple as they say.

1. order kit from bob roberts (or whoever you prefer, I've done biz with Bob before so he's my pref)

2. remove board without getting electrocuted and/or damaging yoke, shell, soft gooey center

3. identify and desolder old capacitors

4. install and solder new capacitors

5. reverse number 2.

6. pray

I'd love for a $5 kit and a couple of hours (noob remember) to fix this monitor, it really looks great, no burn in and the colors are great.  It's the only arcade monitor I have and I'm ready with my ArcadeVGA (bought when they first came out and sitting in box since).

If you have any advice or links (photos are SOOO helpful) I'd appreciate it.  Worst case scenario I either blow it up (it's not really usuable now) or it doesn't fix the problem.

Thanks again for the input!

[Q*Bert_OP]

One must always believe what Ken says

[thebrownshow]

I have a WG19K7602, had a similar problem, Ken suggested a cap kit, and it solved the problem beautifully. 

Cap kits are actually really easy, just take your time and be careful.  There's plenty of stuff about discharging monitors around the web, in fact, I think there's some recent stuff over at Retroblast about removing the board:
http://www.retroblast.com/articles/8-Liners_1.html

[JLR2000]

I have a WG19K7602, had a similar problem, Ken suggested a cap kit, and it solved the problem beautifully. 

Cap kits are actually really easy, just take your time and be careful.  There's plenty of stuff about discharging monitors around the web, in fact, I think there's some recent stuff over at Retroblast about removing the board:
http://www.retroblast.com/articles/8-Liners_1.html

Thanks so much for this post, this is exactly the kind of info I was looking for.  I just realized last night that I'll have to pull the monitor out from the front of the cab....I know sounds simple but never doing it before I had no idea if that was "correct"...this link and the associated links are very helpful and photos make things so much clearer.

I'm pretty convinced now to go ahead and attempt.  A couple more questions:

1. Anyone  use the RadioShack "COLDHEAT" solder guns?  They look pretty easy to use, I've used a conventional solder iron in the past....it's worked but not very pretty.  Not sure if you guys have tried or endorse these things.....

2.  Dumb question but I'll ask anyway: Is it easy to fry a "cap" in the CapKits? I'm guessing it's worth buying 2 from therealbobroberts since they are only $5, that way if something frys I have another....or am I overthinking this....

Thanks again for your replies.  This old NEOGEO MVS cab may soon become a custom smaller Golden Tee/Bowling game!

[grantspain]

only way to fry a cap if its an electrolitic is if you put it in the wrong way round or you forget to cet the excess legs off

[Ken Layton]

Forget the coldheat 'soldering iron'. It's not designed for desoldering (or for real soldering either).

[SirPeale]

1. Anyone  use the RadioShack "COLDHEAT" solder guns?  They look pretty easy to use, I've used a conventional solder iron in the past....it's worked but not very pretty.  Not sure if you guys have tried or endorse these things.....

Junk.  Absolute junk.  I'm suprised Ken didn't have more to say on the matter.  Final word: junk.

2.  Dumb question but I'll ask anyway: Is it easy to fry a "cap" in the CapKits? I'm guessing it's worth buying 2 from therealbobroberts since they are only $5, that way if something frys I have another....or am I overthinking this....

Plug a cap in backwards, that'll kill it quick.

[JLR2000]

Ken/Peale -

Thanks for input on the "cold heat".....you know, I should always go with my first instincts.  My wife picked one up for my Dad this last X-Mas as small extra gift.....I told her it looked crappy (runs on batteries) and that we should bring it back (which we did).  A couple of friends were talking about them but never used one so I thought maybe I was too harsh.  I never even considered desoldering! 

So, no "cold heat" crap and will go with 2 cap kits just in case....the way my luck is if I don't get 2 now I virtually guarantee I will damage one.    Seems like when I prepare for things to go wrong they usually don't.

Thanks again guys....time to order some cap kits...and some new trackball parts since I'll be rebuilding an old atari TB (optics are good but the rollers & bearings are worn).  The ball looks old, I thought I saw a thread here awhile ago on how to clean a trackball....if all else fails I can always order a new one too.  The original has a couple of scratches on it...wonder if those affect performance? 

Thanks again everyone for the feedback.