No way to discharge Monitor before removing to Cap....is this okay?

[JLR2000]

Well I got my cap kit(s) from Bob Roberts (top notch seller as always) and I'm sizing up my first cap kit.  The problem is that there's no really easy way to get to the back of the monitor in the Neo Geo MVS cab to discharge before pullng the monitor to work on it.  I guess I could squeeze in to try to discharge, but I'm worried working in a tight space (hand and screwdriver only) that I could accidently smack and kill something inside the monitor area.

Is it okay to carefully remove the monitor and then discharge, or would you recommend doing whatever I can to try to discharge before moving it?
Your opinions/comments appreciated...

Thanks.

[SirPeale]

Just pull the darn thing.  You'll be fine.

MVS cab?  You should be able to pull just the chassis out, without having to remove everything.

[JLR2000]

 

Okay.....yeah, mvs cab so it looks like the whole thing comes out......

Thanks.

[SirPeale]

What I'm saying is you shouldn't *have* to pull the entire monitor to do your cap kit.

On the back there should be a panel that's held in with four screws.  Remove that, and you should have enough access to remove the chassis.

Heck, I wouldn't worry about discharging it to remove the anode cap.  I'd worry a bit about getting it back *on*, but that's easily remedied with the screwdriver/wire trick.  Just squeeze and pop it off.

[SirPeale]

If you have doubts about this, ask JoyMonkey.  He came to my shop looking for a cab to convert.  One of the cabs I showed him I ran for a few minutes, then popped the anode cap off to show him it wasn't a big deal.

Of course, when I went to put it back on, I got a bit of a zap, but it was like when you scuff your feet on a carpet and touch a doorknob.

Your mileage may vary, of course.  I've also heard of people losing feeling in their fingers for like an hour afterwards from a decent zap.

[JLR2000]

On this cab I can remove the back panel but the wood behind the monitor is fixed, it does not come off.  The back door begins below the monitor.  I haven't opened the front yet but I think I can remove the glass holders, remove paper bezel and I will see the monitor/screws.  Looks like once the screws are removed the entire monitor will slide slightly up and out, but I'll have to get in there to see for sure.

I'll remove the cables from the back, then work from the front.  Just to clarify, there is no way to get to the back of the tube/neck from the rear of the cab. Only some small spaces for ventilation.
Here's an old pic to give you an idea of the cab type:  http://image04.webshots.com/4/6/52/71/58165271QgnOWP_fs.jpg

Thanks for feedback....I've discharged one monitor before and there was absolutely no pop/spark or anything.....I guess I'm more worried about killing the nice unburned monitor more than a potential zap.  Hopefully I'll have some time this week to get in and start working on this. 

[SirPeale]

http://image04.webshots.com/4/6/52/71/58165271QgnOWP_fs.jpg

Hm...forbidden.

[JLR2000]

Hmmmm.....

http://community.webshots.com/user/iluvmame

Not sure why it didn't work, but this will bring you to the main page and you can just click on the cab I described (Next Mame Project).....

Thanks.

[SirPeale]

Ah, you have a Neo Geo Gold.  Never played with one of those.  Not familiar with the cab.

[dabone]

Just yank the monitor, it's only a 19" so it's a 1 man job to yank it.

(I pull and install 27" monitors alone so a 19 is EASY)

While you have it out of the cab, clean the monitor and the cab interior.

Later,
dabone

[JLR2000]

Okay, so here's what I did:

I attempted to remove the monitor/chassis from the front but realized after getting into it that it would be major work to disassemble the whole thing.  So I looked at the back again and figured out what I had to disconnect to remove the bottom plate of the chasiss, with the PCB connected.  I took a dozen or so digital pics so I had a reference of what it looked like "before" I pulled any wires.  Then I discharged the monitor (uneventful, no sound, sparks, screams or anything) and disconnected the few wires to take out the bottom plate and the neck pcb.

I have it all on my work bench now and I started identifying where the caps are that need replacing.  After close inspection I see that one of the caps leaked its "guts" out (yeah, technical term but the pros here know what I mean and the others get my meaning).  It was nice to see that, just to get confirmation that a cap problem exists.  Not that I haven't learned to trust Peale and Ken, it was just cool to see for myself. 

The plan tonight (if the kids get to bed on time) is to desolder, replace and solder.  I'd love to get it done tonite to test but I won't rush it.  Thanks again to all for your info and comments.  I tried putting the screwdriver in/near the whole in the tube after removing the suction cup, I'll probably do that again once more before I re-hook it all together to test.

Oh yeah - one last question: On the neck PCB there is a cap listed as one to replace, but it is not the "barrell" type, it's the "flat, round, penny-looking" type.  I'm going to assume the good ol' Bob knows volumes more than me and that the "barrell" replacement he sent is fine to use to replace the "penny" type.  If anyone knows differently or if I'm looking at the wrong part....let me know.

Thanks.

[SirPeale]

I'm thinking 'no.'  The flat, penny like ones (likely a mica cap) unless they're damaged shouldn't be touched. 

Unless someone replaced it in the past with it that, THEN you likely should.

[grantspain]

Its only electrolitics that need replacing with time,other caps  only need replacing if short or blown,there is a common fault on nanao monitors when the electrolitic cap on the neck card leaks-this causes a strange brightness fault,its very possible the fault on yours is only that leaky cap,they can cause some very strange faults

[TravistyOJ]

Is it a G07? I just did a capkit on a G07 with a bob roberts kit, and he said to move one of those mica caps to another place and use an elotrolytic in its place as an "upgrade".  I followed the directions and it turned out perfect. 

[JLR2000]

It's a Wells-Gardner k7000 series monitor.

[JLR2000]

Thanks Peale, Ken and everyone for their help....my cap kit project worked out great.  The monitor looks great, and doesn't blank out after 10 minutes anymore.....

BTW, I didn't replace the penny-like cap on the neck board, figured if I had to I could always go back and do it if necessary.  The scariest part of the whole procedure had to be getting the neck board back on....remember I didn't take the monitor out of the cab and the back of the cab behind the monitor does not come off.  I did some major stretching to peek in and see what I was doing.....took my time and exercised caution and all is well.

Thanks again folks....