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Author Topic: Using a meter to check a test point on a board  (Read 1006 times)

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killbill

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Using a meter to check a test point on a board
« on: January 25, 2006, 01:03:29 pm »
Hi All,

I'm pretty new at working on arcade monitors.

I was wondering if anyone would be so kind as to tell me how to check test points with a meter on a board.

Does one lead of the meter go on the test point, and the other go to a ground (for ex: the chassis?)

Any help is appreciated here.  I'd hate to short out my board out of pure ignorance.

Thanks,
Jason

grantspain

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Re: Using a meter to check a test point on a board
« Reply #1 on: January 25, 2006, 01:23:17 pm »
you should find there will be a common post on your chassis to connect to,if not then the chassis metal should be fine-the only way your gonna short your monitor is if you are not careful where you put your meter probe.i always hook my common meter lead to the chassis metal then all i got to do is concentrate where the positive lead goes-whats your fault anyway?

killbill

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Re: Using a meter to check a test point on a board
« Reply #2 on: January 25, 2006, 02:32:36 pm »
Hi,

Thanks for the response.

I have two things I have to check on my K7400.

1.  The B+ Adjust level at Test Point 202.  This pot was supposed to be factory set and glued, but it wasn't when I got the monitor.  Being the moron that I am, I adjusted it to the max to cure a screen width issue.  Now, I have to use the meter to trim the pot back down to 120V.(the factory preset)

2.  The HV Shutdown/Protect level at test point 201.  I haven't touched this pot, but I want to make sure that it is measuring a 10th of a volt; which is the factory preset.

Thanks for the advice.  Would you recommend partially removing the board for these tests?

Thanks

« Last Edit: January 25, 2006, 02:34:07 pm by killbill »

grantspain

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Re: Using a meter to check a test point on a board
« Reply #3 on: January 25, 2006, 03:10:50 pm »
i would take the whole tube out of the cab first,then depending if the test point was difficult to get to i would take the chassis out making sure no chance of a short,if you have to disconnect your degauss coil then so be it-just make sure the chassis is stable and not shorting to anything