Earlier problem fixed, now I have a new one! Yay!

[Nipedley]

Hey guys, you might have been following my last thread (the frame connector and the problems that followed) well, today it turned on - it just has a long warmup time, and it aint buzzing anymore! However, now we have an *awful* picture. It is in sync! But! There seems to be colour bleeding all along the edges, almost like anything bright bleedes out like the border of games... and the sky bleeds out all around - brightness issue, component issue...? Help is very much appreciated, I'm getting near! Also just to note, the top monitor is still out-of-sync as the main monitor used to be, so it appears that the new chassis did indeed fix it!

Take a look here: for a better idea. Also note on the last screen, the text is unreadable as its so bright! Brightness voltage issue.. flyback?

[Nipedley]

Just wanted to mention this *IS* a chassis problem, seeing as how the previous chassis was near-perfect minus the sync issue. I've been doing a little researching and it sounds like my RGB Cutoffs might need adjusting. Is this right or not?

[grantspain]

bet your feeling smug now,anyway the colour problem is your colours overdriving-try turning down your contrast-if that dont work try your seperate colour controls on the neck card,anyway well done amigo.

[Nipedley]

Is there a contrast control? I tried playing with the focus and the brightness with little success. I have perfect brightness now, but still certain graphics are smearing horizontally.. IE. streets of rage - the background is perfect, absolutely fine - but the text that scrolls on the intro is smeared across.. Never encountered anything like this before, is it rgb drive or rgb cutoff that I need to play with?

I have to say, its nice to know this project is finally getting there at last!

Only thing left after this little smearing/colour bleeding problem is the top monitor is still scrolling, I guess I'll be needing to make up a capkit for that thing then. Might as well do my old 20" chassis while I'm at it though, so I'll have two working chassis around should I need a replacement =)

[grantspain]

still very strange,like i said i have worked for 20 years in this industry i look after about 300 machines on my own,and i think i have only had one or two cap faults a year,the faults you are describing are unlikely to be caps,more likely your cab had the wrong rated chassis on the tubes where people have mucked around with it over the years,i have seen it before.
as for the contrast if my memory serves me correct there is a strange large pot with a plastic adjuster close to the rgb plug that should do it,but a photo of the chassis so i can see.

[Nipedley]

Would this be it?

[grantspain]

yep thats it,this is how i set up monitors.but you dont have to do all of this 1-6 are the important ones
1-turn down your contrast to minimum
2-turn down brightness to minimum
3-turn down your screen volts on the lopti so you can just make out a picture
4-turn up your brightness so you can see the picture fairly well
5-turn up your contrast to give colours depth
6-adjust the focus
7-on the neck card there are 6 pots(3 upright,3 flat to the card),the 3 upright are foreground colours,the 3 flat to the card are background colours-i adjust all these to min then starting with background bring the colours so you just see them,then with the foreground the same until the picture is spot on.
you may have to go back the different pots until you get your perfect picture its just a case of patience.once your use to this procedure it takes seconds to set a monitor up,all the best

[Nipedley]

Thanks, il have a go at that tomorrow and post the results here. You've been a great help! Just one monitor left now

[Nipedley]

You are a star! The monitor is now working and perfectly playable.. but even better, the top monitor seems to have been cured too! It was still crazy out of sync but I started adjusting it and boom, instant sync, and it held perfectly and has since.. madness.. which I guess means this thing is finally complete! Only things left is the brightness is slightly too high and it has a little bit of a blue tint (all adjustable of course) which I can get to later, but now I can call her officially complete! Thank you all for your help (specially you Ken and Grant!)

[grantspain]

 well done mate,proper job!not only have you sorted your machine you have also learnt a little more,at the age of 16 ,i take my hat off to you-my 16 year old son has problems wiping his own backside.happy gaming

[Nipedley]

Thanks buddy I'll post a final picture of the machine here tomorrow, probably with me standing beside it =)

By the way, did you ever encounter a use for the "Gun" connector on the pcb board? I've never found a use for it, nor can find any reference to it on the web.

Presumably, the reason its so dirty is that it had never been covered with a connector. Seems kinda pointless, though??

[grantspain]

we had loads of megatechs and i dont remember one game using a gun,as you can see that port has never been used.its like many things when they build multi cabs,the makers have big plans that this machine will be the future of gaming so they design the board to adapt to future tech,trouble is by the time that tech comes along the cabinet looks dated and the graphics are crap.looking forward to seeing the finished project,hasta luego amigo.

[Nipedley]

*Update*

I've decided I am going to give both monitors a full workover. I figured that I've come this far (April!), I may as well do everything I can to get the best experience out of the machine as possible, and so it will work as long as possible! I'm going to do capkits to the 20" and the 10" monitor (the 10" has a slight "jitter" issue and the horizontal width is way too large), plus the 20" needs some adjustment from the neckboard anyway so that gets that out of the way.

I have a question though, what would cause the picture to.. dither? As in, fade very slightly and then back to full and then fade to black a little over and over.. LOPT? I'm going to get that fixed too. (Thats on the 10").

[grantspain]

could be the lopti causing this,but i am sure there is an ht smoothing cap that caused that problem but i cant remember where it is-it is either on the neck card or close to the lopti.there again it could be just a tarnished pot-worth just tweeking your contrast,brightness and screen volts.
the width problem is down to a cap-this situated on the chassis when you look where the lopti is from the top close to the front of the chassis inside the metal frame(think its 50v 4.7 microfared),again all this is from memory so i could be wrong-if you post a really good photo of your spare chassis from the top i could help more.i remember this width fault it was very common,it was down to the cap overheating because it was close to load resistor-we ended up mounting the replacement cap underneath to prevent this.