Hantarex MTC 9000... Frame connection?

[Nipedley]

I managed to get myself a new Hantarex MTC 9000 chassis, but I'm having trouble finding the location on the neckboard where the wire from the frame goes to.. There is only one possible point on the neckboard, but it isnt said about in the manual, and I'm not sure if its the right place.. anyone help me out? The chassis is a BZ 02 / C, neckboard is a ZG 07.

The little tab is just behind the big capacitor on the picture.. is this right? Don't want to fry my new chassis

[grantspain]

Are you talking about the black ground wire with the small spade terminal?

[Nipedley]

Thats the one

[grantspain]

Its the earth to the neck card-there should be a metal flat pin on the neck card,i could not see that well on your photo,but if my memory serves me well its by that cap-you still got that sinc lock problem on your megatech?

[Nipedley]

thanks, that's what I need to know =) The pin is in a different location on this chassis to my other two, so I wasn't quite sure. About the sync, well, that's what I will find out tomorrow when I hook up this new chassis, if its a chassis problem this will tell me as it's a "tested and working" from a local amusement company

[grantspain]

Who is the local amusement company?

[Nipedley]

Just a small time arcade in the local town, there are few around but its a "seaside" town and its mandatory that they come with at least a few arcades ;P They also had a Lethal Enforcer cab sitting alone in the corner.. no room, though 

I'll update this post tomorrow when I find out whats up, I also updated my PSU as the old one was a bit.. dog-eared shall we say, so that will eliminate any funky power problems

[Nipedley]

Bugger. Bugger bugger. Now I get nothing, no picture at all. However,when I turned it off I saw a pattern of dots in the center almost like looking at the pins on the neck of the tube. They faded off screen after a second or so.. but nothing was actually visible while it was on.. Ideas..? The only thing I can think of is either the said frame connection came loose, or the neckboard was a little loose (it was still connected) - for the record I did hear a buzzing which was *not* normally there

[grantspain]

Not having much luck with your cab.
Post a photo of your chassis connected so i can see what you have put where(every angle poss please).
This chassis is it on the 19 or 10 inch tube,because they had different lopti.
dots in the middle of the screen could be either the scan coils not connected,the tube neck card not on correct or the monitor just popped for some reason.

[grantspain]

hanterax did release 2 different mtc 9000 neck card versions,check your neck card tube socket is exactly the same(pin locations/shape/physical size)

[Nipedley]

No I'm not having much luck at all!

The chassis is a 19" same as the one it replaced, unfortunately cant take photos since its in the cab right now and its getting dark.. I know the yoke plug/scan coil plug is connected, but its possible the neckboard wasnt on right - it was quite loose before I put it in. The socket on the neckboard was the same shape and size, though I dont know about pins. How would I find that out?

Also, would the neckboard being loose have killed any components on the board? (IE. if I get the immediate problem fixed, would there be any other problems?)

Just to note, the neckboard itself is a lot smaller than the previous one that I had/have

[grantspain]

hanterax mtc 9000 were a very robust monitor,if your neck card was only loose then it should not cause any problem,when the 9000 was released back in the distant past we had problems-first the loptis were underated and failed also taking out the hot-we thought all the loptis were the same but we were wrong different lopti for different size(and neck card).
But if your neck card socket does look exactly the same you should be fine.
that picture you posted of your psu is that whats in your cab now or before because there is a couple of things wrong with that.

[Nipedley]

That was before, got a nice new one now =) What's wrong with it in the picture? (All I noticed and left was the +5v -> NC connector)

So what would you say is up with the monitor? For the record its not a single dot in the center (as I understand would happen if the yoke was unplugged) but several, like on the diagram below. Any ideas whats up there? Dead tube? Lopt (buzzing)? Frame connection wire?

(Said dots were only visible fading from the screen after I had turned it off.. when it was on, there was nothing - at least not that I saw. I'll take another look (and camera) tomorrow

[grantspain]

yep that +5v connect to nc should not be there(not a problem but other people might have wired that up to ac in ).
you dont always need the field earth and common linked,it could cause problems.
as for your monitor looks like a cat walked through some paint then onto your screen,no looks like the chassis tripped out to me.
been doing alot of thinking about your problem,trying to remember the same fault i had-now im not 100% certain but i think it turned out to be a problem with the monitor common,i am pretty sure i just used a different common wire that i spliced into and it cured it-but this was a very long time ago so i cant be certain-its a shame im not in the uk or i would come and take a look for you.
this new chassis did you see it working before you bought,when you did plug it in did you turn up the screen volts on the lopti to see if you had any picture(if you have it connected correctly you wont cause any damage),always look at the tube neck to see if you have an orange glow from the heaters this means nearly all the time that your chassis is running ok,those dots on the screen could just be the tube powering down(mind you if you have not seen that happen on your old chassis then thats unlikely)-by the time your finished with this cab you will be the world number 1 on megatechs.
the only way that would be a tube fault is if you bent a pin on the neck.
that frame connection wire is only an earth to the tube neck card
the plugs you should have connected onto your monitor(im sure you know this)
1-ac input 120/240v
2-rgb sinc/comm
3-degauss
4-scan coils
5-ht cap onto tube
6-earth wire to neck card
7-adjustment board or extender loom
8-sometimes an earth to the tube metal frame.
if all the above is correct and the tube neck is on correct and you have turned up the screen volts but still no picture then you have sold a dud chassis.if you put your old chassis on and it works then hey presto.

[Nipedley]

Hehe you're right about the cat thing, it looks weird but im not the best artist in the world =). It also wasnt white, but that doesn't matter neither - what do you mean by the monitor common, the video ground from the rgb? or the wire from the frame to the neckboard.. (possible problem there), I haven't turned up the screen control yet - I set it to half before I installed the monitor figuring that I'd get a picture (HA!), I'll give that a go tomorrow. The buzzing really puts me off though, sounds like it's going to explode! I didn't see the chassis working but it was confirmed working by them before they sold it to me so.. :/ This weekend I'll try swapping in my old chassis (presuming that I dont fix the problem by then) and see what happens. About the heaters, if you remember megatech's have the most awkward monitor positions - they're damned hard to get to, the only place you can peer in is from the bottom or through a little grill. Nevertheless, when I was repairing my last chassis I ran it out of the cab with a spare ISO and even then could never see any glow (even though it was working). Those dots have never appeared before by the way.. which is what made me so nervous about it, that and the buzzing 'acourse. I have got all of those connected apart from the degaussing coil 'cause it was cut for unknown reasons (not shorted but meh) so I left it that way. When the weekend comes, if my old chassis fires up just fine on the tube (after a little tinkering to see if I can get it to power with the new one) then I'm just gunna throw the new one in my box o' bits and finally repair the originals.. it's a lot less headache than what this thing is causing me.

Thanks for all the help man, if it wasn't for you I'm sure I'd still be here in January 2007..

[grantspain]

monitor common same as video ground.
if that was a loud buzzing then thats a problem-something going well unstable.
get that old chassis back in but check those pins on the tube first-i think you will have to take the whole monitor out again im afraid otherwise its gonna happen again.
we are gonna get this problem sorted-in 20 years i have never let a video get the better of me,its a matter of pride.

[Nipedley]

monitor common same as video ground.
if that was a loud buzzing then thats a problem-something going well unstable.
get that old chassis back in but check those pins on the tube first-i think you will have to take the whole monitor out again im afraid otherwise its gonna happen again.
we are gonna get this problem sorted-in 20 years i have never let a video get the better of me,its a matter of pride.

Hehe, I didnt think buzzing sounded good. Things like that freak me out, when they make noises I know that they shouldn't.. weird thing is, they tested it before I had it and it was working.. damage in transit perhaps..? It was wrapped well though so I don't know.. I know the pins on the tube are good, I'm always delicate with neckboards as I'm afraid of cracking them by applying too much pressure so I'm slow.. and they were good beforehand too, unless the neckboard mangled them/fried them by being on it.. sometimes I think the machine has a soul and it just rejects the parts it doesnt like. Such as this monitor chassis - she doesn't like it, so she doesn't let it work! Looks like I'm back with a soldering iron and my original chassis then. On that subject, what components could cause a sync problem? (Other than the 16 remaining capacitors that is)

20 years! Wow, you must have seen a lot of interesting problems then.. I've only been working on my machines since April, but then I am only 16 so..

[grantspain]

Yep same as,started at 16 straight from school for s.e leisure in maidstone-first job sweep the yard then i got promoted to tea maker,3 years as a trainee passed all my coin slot exams,got promotion to field engineer.stayed there 10 years then joined ivor thomas at ramsgate where i became workshop manager another 8 years then onto gamestec back in maidstone.now chief engineer for company in spain(hard life eh).
still dont think its a cap fault-to have 2 monitors doing the same thing at same time is not logical-you have to find the common fault-if you start changing the caps you will be there forever(wont do any harm though and your soldering technique will improve).
The fault you have stems from someone mucking around with the original wiring-typical field service engineer.
so we are looking at thefollowing
game board fault
wiring fault
earth/common fault
interference fault
sounds like your doing a great job though,your probably further on than most engineers with 5 years experience-keep it up you can only gain from this.
please,please check those pins on the tube-then lets take it from there

[Nipedley]

Yep same as,started at 16 straight from school for s.e leisure in maidstone-first job sweep the yard then i got promoted to tea maker,3 years as a trainee passed all my coin slot exams,got promotion to field engineer.stayed there 10 years then joined ivor thomas at ramsgate where i became workshop manager another 8 years then onto gamestec back in maidstone.now chief engineer for company in spain(hard life eh).
still dont think its a cap fault-to have 2 monitors doing the same thing at same time is not logical-you have to find the common fault-if you start changing the caps you will be there forever(wont do any harm though and your soldering technique will improve).
The fault you have stems from someone mucking around with the original wiring-typical field service engineer.
so we are looking at thefollowing
game board fault
wiring fault
earth/common fault
interference fault
sounds like your doing a great job though,your probably further on than most engineers with 5 years experience-keep it up you can only gain from this.
please,please check those pins on the tube-then lets take it from there

Hehe it was more than mucked around with.. when I got it; it had only the one monitor, the chassis wasnt an original - it had been swapped, the harness had been hacked to bits for jamma, he had installed some coin credit board into the harness for the coin acceptor, the main ac had been "played with" as well, leaving a gaping hole where the switch should be and very dodgy wiring, and he'd wired in a new iso transformer (well, old but you get me) and had some very weird video and speaker wiring for his jamma harness that he had done, I think the point of the video was so that he could run both monitors from the same jamma board though he must have scrapped that idea as it was left just as wires... I've gone through it all and re-wired it to how it would make sense, but I guess it's possible I made a mistake in the grounds somewhere (or he did and I missed it, since the jamma board played just the same). I'll check those pins asap, though I'm a bit wary of going near the neckboard until the capacitors have discharged a bit.. how long does that usually take?

[grantspain]

caps on neck board wont take long to discharge,you wont get a killer off those anyway,just dont stick your hand on it when switched on-only thing really to worry about is the ht cap but i think the 9000 has an auto discharge on this anyway(i think).
you said you got a new wiring loom,obviously you know you cant run two monitors from one output,pretty sure megatech had two seperate rgb outputs one for each screen,but if you have the menu/credit display at the top and the actual game on the bottom that is correct.
you know i think the megatech had two transformers but i cant remember for certain-not for each monitor but one a straight 240 to 110v and a teroidal(i think thats how its spelt) could be wrong though.keep me posted and good luck

[Nipedley]

caps on neck board wont take long to discharge,you wont get a killer off those anyway,just dont stick your hand on it when switched on-only thing really to worry about is the ht cap but i think the 9000 has an auto discharge on this anyway(i think).
you said you got a new wiring loom,obviously you know you cant run two monitors from one output,pretty sure megatech had two seperate rgb outputs one for each screen,but if you have the menu/credit display at the top and the actual game on the bottom that is correct.
you know i think the megatech had two transformers but i cant remember for certain-not for each monitor but one a straight 240 to 110v and a teroidal(i think thats how its spelt) could be wrong though.keep me posted and good luck

Yep it has two seperate outputs, I didn't get a new harness exactly I bought a spare harness from someone with a megatech machine that converted it and re-built mine from it, so it should be exactly the same - the only thing I didnt touch was the actual power wiring (ie. the psu, transformer, ac filter, fuses) since they looked untouched themselves. Mine only has one transformer, as did the person mentioned above dont know the rating though as I haven't really looked at it. I know the other transformer he installed wasn't original because he spliced the power wires into the switch itself, the other guy also confirmed he only had one when he took his out.. he was also the guy I got my 10" monitor from, quite useful . Thanks, I'll post here what happens as it does.. darn school though, only gives me a hour or two to do any work a day