wells gardner u5000

[aussietech]

I need some help I have 3 of these boards I cant seem to get these  going I have replace all the burnt resistors and transistors fets had some with blown fuses I can only get 45 volts to the horizontal drive transistor and it makes a ticking sound any help would be appreciated I have checked the components against the wells gardner repair tips still no luck

[Ken Layton]

This trouble-plagued chassis has three factory issued repair/upgrade kits you need to install to repair them.

It is strongly advised to buy & install all three of the following kits:

# S01J0000-000F Service Kit, U-5000 Horizontal Output Transistor Update

# S05F0000-000F Service Kit, U-5000 Vertical Deflection Update

# S04E0000-000F Service Kit, U-5000 & U-2000 Power Supply Update

Order the above directly from the parts department at Wells-Gardner in Illinois (phone 1-800-336-6630 or 708-290-2100) at www.wellsgardner.com

[Karetaker]

So.... which one is doing what??? I take it that one of them is making a ticking sound? It's in protect. I would suggest just working on one nightmare at a time. That's what these things are.... a nighmare!

Ken's advice is solid, you should get those kits. You wouldn't want to end up with a hole burnt in your board. In the mean time you can check the HOT which is "Q704". (I don't know if you know how to test it or not so just in case you don't: WITH POWER OFF!!!!! Put your DMM on diode test. Ground the the black lead to the chassis and put the red lead on the center leg of the HOT. Open or high resistance means it good. Shorted means it's bad.)

If it's not the HOT test "D106A, B, & C. If it's not them check D105, D107, and R104. Also go over the solders on the flyback.

When you are putting it back in the game to test it ALWAYS PUT AT LEAST ONE SCREW BACK IN THE CHASSIS BOARD! I learned this the hard way. I had one fixed and didn't have it screwed down. It didn't take long for it to go out again. These things need a screw in them for a good ground. I've added an extra ground plug on all of mine.

If you are trying to figure out if the power supply on the board is working here is how you can test it:

There is a bare wire jumper at W159. Lift the end that is connected to R100. Connect a 60W or 75W light bulb between this end of the jumper and ground. Then apply AC power to the board and see if the light bulb lights up and stays lit. If the light bulb stays lit the power supply is working and the problem is on the deflection side of the board.

That WG troubleshooting guide is pretty worthless for the most part. Some of it's handy but I've never had a U5000 in protect and have the problem be a part that WG lists for it.

A lot of guys got rid of their U5000. I just had so many of them that I had to learn to fix them.

Good luck with them.... Let us know how you make out.