My Pacman profile cabinet (finished!......99%)

[DrewKaree]

Okay.  Using your cab's profile pic, I've kinda laid it out.  The brace you've already got in there for your flat front can be moved (or left there, obviously it's up to you) to help out.

What you'll initially need is the most important part that will tell you if you can do this or not.  You are going to need ¹/₈" sheet goods (what is that, like 4mm or something?  dunno the conversion, but someone can help out if you aren't sure either ).  You're going to use plain old hardboard if you're going to laminate.  Hardboard is the dark brown stuff that's super smooth, almost slick on one side, and textured-ish on the other side.  If you're not positive what I'm referring to, check out my project thread.  The pegboard is the same exact stuff, only with a brazilian holes in it.  You'll need stuff that thin so that it'll bend to the curve.  Don't worry about that part just yet though.

If you're NOT gonna use laminate, and you're shooting for a wood finish, you'll want to find the same thickness material in plywood.  Over here, the stuff I'd use is luan plywood.  Luan is simply the wood used to create it.  It's a super-flexible material, but if you CAN'T find it, regular plywood WILL work, it just won't be as flexible (which will be a slight drawback but easy to overcome.

IF you've got the materials in that thickness, we move on to the next step.  That brace you've got for the flat front....you'll need 3 pieces like that.  You'll position them so they're installed like the red lines in the pic.  You'll want the edges of the material to be flush with the outer edges of your cab.  These three braces (or throw in another one for a total of 4 if you want more rigidity/support in the area) will stiffen that area to support your CP.  They'll also give you the means to fasten the thin material used for the curve.  You'll use brads or finishing nails to fasten the thin material directly to the braces.  That'll help hold everything into place as you move up your curve.  Several nails across the front should hold everything into place, perhaps throw some Gorilla Glue on the braces before nailing for some added fastening power.

What you're doing (hopefully it'll be obvious by my description) is form it around the circle part.  The yellow line in the pic shows what I mean.  You'll START it at the bottom part and work your way upwards.

I hate to throw the second pic up there, but I haven't re-installed Photoshop so I can't "remove" your brace you've already got in there.  You've got to look at that second pic as if your brace isn't there at all.  The red is simply a "wire frame" representation of how the braces you will ADD will be placed, and the green/white dots represent the nails and how you'll fasten the thin material to that brace.

Hopefully the pics will explain everything   If not, if it's possible for you to take an almost-straight-on shot like in that second pic (and perhaps remove the brace), I may be able to make it even more understandable if you aren't following so far.

I wish I took pics of what and how I did this, but that curve isn't severe enough that you have to scrap the idea of having it match instead of going with a flat front.

[c64rulez]

Woooah !
I guess I must thank you twice
First (and most important...) you crossed that 1 page barrier for me (YES!!!)

Your explanation is more than I could ask for. thank you for your time and patience. I get the general picture, but I must emphasize that what you called "the already installed brace" ia actually a drawer front, so if I decide to go the curved way, I'll have to take that into consideration and probably use your guidelines.

Once again, thanks for all that info. Going to check that thread you mentioned

[markrvp]

On the joysticks, you can put the dustwashers under the plexi - IF - your artwork will be applied to the top of the plexi (sounds strange I know).  If the artwork is under the plexi (like is logical) then you probably want to put the dust washer on top so it won't rub against the artwork where it is loose over the top of the joystick base.

[c64rulez]

dustwashers ? like in "keeping the dust from getting inside ? "
It's that big black plate with the hole in the middle, ya ?

What you wrote regarding the plate above/under is exactly what I also thought.
Still banging my head with all the artwork and how to apply it.
BUT - this kind of project is absolute FUN.

Thanks for the reply

[c64rulez]

How can I view threads of people that reply to me

[1zzy]

Just my two cents...

Why not heat up some water and put the material you want to curve for the front and soak it. For a piece this big you probably will have to use the bathtub with scalding water. Then take it out and bend it to shape immediately. Follow that by clamping it to the front and then let it dry. The reason to do this is so that when it dries it will maintain the bend. Then you could mount the face of your keyboard drawer to the curved part so that when you slide it out the curve moves with it. Like I said, just an idea I had while reading this thread.

Scott S.

[c64rulez]

Is it just me or did you just wrote "soak it in water " ?
put the MDF in water ?

[DrewKaree]

How can I view threads of people that reply to me

Just keep hitting one of those icons on the left hand side underneath a person's screen name.  One of 'em is for their profile where you can select "show the last posts of this person".

What I think you're searching for though is my project and the pegboard stuff I was talking about.  Here 'tis:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=44196.msg414536#msg414536

Is it just me or did you just wrote "soak it in water " ?
put the MDF in water ?

Yeah, he's telling you about wood bending.  A lot of times you'd use steam, but you CAN soak it and bend it while it's still pliable.  That would only apply to solid wood or plywood, and it isn't the best way to do it, but it would work on something this large.  Steam bending is the better (and more involved) way to do this, but he obviously didn't know you were gonna use MDF.  Like me, he was giving you ideas without knowing precisely what you were gonna use.  I know it SOUNDS funny, but it works

As far as what you're looking to do, what I'm suggesting is called cold-bending.  It's generally not as effective as steam bending, but given the setup you can achieve, it'll certainly work out just fine for your project.

Perhaps instead of a keyboard drawer, you can simply make that a tray that sits inside that assembly and hinge your CP top to access the keyboard.  That way, you won't have to fiddle unnecessarily with trying to cut the access hole.  Once you have your cab set up, you'll probably not have to monkey around with that keyboard very often at all. 

If you DO need to use the keyboard often (such as if you're making this your family's internet computer/games/entertainment station) I'd then suggest getting an RF keyboard such as a Logitech and simply burying the reciever inside your cab and leaving the keyboard outside, perhaps setting it on top of the cab or somewhere close by.  The RF doesn't have the same limitations as an IR keyboard, so it'll get the signals right through the MDF sides no problems at all. 

Hopefully I've given you more than enough info so you'll give up the idea of going with a flat front and do it like I sense you REALLY want to

[c64rulez]

Man, I checked out your thread and it made me a bit dizzy 
I must clear my head before diving into it.
But as soon as I saw that picture of "pool" table, I simply cant help myself from posting a picture of the one I've built about two years ago.

Perhaps this is not the place to post it, so I apologize in advance, but if anybody wants plans/advice building a table like this, youre welcome.

And another twisted-must-post-it project: A checkers game bench with a board made from INTEL 486 Processors. 

As for that curved front of my pacman cab, I guess there's no escape for me now... back to the drawing board

[c64rulez]

Here's how I see my marquee design. That blowup image catched my eye instantly and I knew at once I'll be using it somewhere along the way. I cant remember though were I picked it up, but all credit goes to the creator.

The cab will be named "Infinicade", simply because the front end I'm writing is going to handle roms from several emulators (virtually any emulator).

[DrewKaree]

Here's how I see my marquee design. That blowup image catched my eye instantly and I knew at once I'll be using it somewhere along the way. I cant remember though were I picked it up, but all credit goes to the creator.

The cab will be named "Infinicade", simply because the front end I'm writing is going to handle roms from several emulators (virtually any emulator).

One of the design geniuses around here created that, but danged if I can remember their name.  Too much info from the EE forum has long since pushed that tidbit out my ears

Did you make that bench as well?  I'd like to see a better shot of the pool table from the side to see the legs.  I think the questions everyone'll have upon seeing that and finding out you BUILT it are:

Total cost of the build (don't include balls/cues/racks/lights, etc)
Is that slate?  If not, what'd you use, if so, where'd you get it, & how much?
What'd you use for the cushions, where and how much again?

Excellent work!  Seeing that, I'm sure you can manage the Pac curve

[c64rulez]

I have all the answers to all the questions you can possibly ask regarding the table. A lot (and I mean a lot) of research has been put into that project.

I don't think though that telling you where I got all the stuff is going to be of any help since it was all bought locally (which means ISRAEL, which is about 3000 miles away).

Total cost of build probably relies on two major factors: Wood and Playfield materials.
I was on a budget and timber here in Israel is not that cheap, so it's PINE. The playfield is made of 3 pieces of marble 1" thick. Cost of marble: 180$ (The table is 8' by 4')
Total cost of material was around 750$
300$ wood, 180$ marble, 75$ fasteners/screws/etc, cloth 175$

The rubber for the cushion is a long L shaped strip (you can see it in a picture below) and is different than the one used in pool (V shape). The L shape goes in a snooker table

I have tons

[21up]

Hi c64rulez
been following your progress (excellent) the table is real, lucky you you have all the room to put things.

Cab is comming along fine,cannot wait for your fe hope it is easy to install,if it is it will make a change from mame 32 ,which i use as i had lots of probs getting win command line version to work.
All the best and keep pics comming
cheers Peter

[c64rulez]

Thank you. Actually it is I who needs to thank my wife for letting me place that table in our living room.

The frontend will not require an installation process.

You'll simply click-n-run it. Just some basic setup to fit your cab/pc environment

I guess I'll finish it during the next few days.

[c64rulez]

back in a few minutes.
going into the laundry machine.
Just routed the left panel t-molding slot.

[c64rulez]

T-MOLDING SLOT ROUTING SUCKS!!!

Such a narrow slot and TONS of dust. Even with my face covered up I was holding my breath when running the router.
Is it normal to cough sawdust ?

Anyway, it's a thing of the past now, so the cab (at last) can be primed (which I'll do tomorrow)

And regarding the flat/curved front I found an article in a book I have (long gone forgotten) describing the process of laminating. So maybe I'll give it a shot

[c64rulez]

Can anyone tell me why do I see people  putting relays in the "one-button-turn-it-on-and-off" solution ?

Is it really needed ?

[DrewKaree]

I don't know if you can get a bits limited strip for a reasonable price shipped to you, so if you want to have one button that starts/stops your cab, then you'll have to build your own.  In which case, it seems that the only solution to BYO Bits strip has to have a relay. 

I dunno if it has to have a relay to avoid tripping the breaker in the power strip, or if it's just so you don't see the boot screen. 

That cold-laminating via using a press of some sort is really NOT necessary for your project.  Using the braces, the thin material, and Gorilla Glue (if you don't have Gorilla Glue, liquid nails or some other construction adhesive will work just as well) will work just fine.  Heck, you could even throw ³/₄" material on there if you wanted to kerf the backside!  It's really more trouble than it's worth to use a press to get your curve, and may discourage you from the process. 

Using more braces and nails would even be less of a hassle than a press. 

I don't have any ¹/₈" material lying around, otherwise I'd whip you up a quick mock up to show you what I'm talking about, but I've done kitchen base cabinets with a curved end like this and needed to do this, and they're still holding together just fine.  The nails are really only used for clamping purposes until the glue/construction adhesive cures.  They do provide SOME structural use, but very little for this purpose.  If you've got clamps, you could probably do away with the nails to be perfectly honest

[DrewKaree]

back in a few minutes.
going into the laundry machine.
Just routed the left panel t-molding slot.

YOU'VE GOT A LAUNDRY MACHINE THAT ROUTES T-MOLDING SLOTS!?!

                                   

GIVE US THE PLANS TO MAKE ONE!

 

[c64rulez]

io stupido !

Only now I understand the method that was suggested to me regarding the curved front.
As I said, I usually tend to go for the complex solution when the simple one is just an inch away.

I think the relay can be avoided (although I know very little about electronics), I dont care about boot screens as they are all going to be replaced or blacked out.

Thanks for the fast reply

[c64rulez]

That laundry machine thing, I cant do it man
You'll have to get clearance from NASA first.
Sorry

[DrewKaree]

Thanks for the fast reply

Thanks for posting while I was awake

It sounds like you just picked up on the big picture of what I'm talking about

[c64rulez]

Man, time is a funny thing. Here it's 18:37. I have no idea what's yours, but I guess most of the forum is a sleep when I'm awake and vice cersa

[markrvp]

You're 8 hours ahead of Dallas, Texas.

[c64rulez]

houston, we have a problem

[DrewKaree]

You're 8 hours ahead of Dallas, Texas.

I dunno....18:37 when he posted it means 10:37 P.M.

You're exactly 12 hours opposite of me.  I thought Dallas was only one time zone away.

Actually, I thought Dallas might possibly be CST, but what do I know, I'm in WI! 

[c64rulez]

Sorry, I was just joking

[markrvp]

You're 8 hours ahead of Dallas, Texas.

I dunno....18:37 when he posted it means 10:37 P.M.

You're exactly 12 hours opposite of me.

[c64rulez]

I give up. you win

[DrewKaree]

what do I know, I'm in WI! 

18:37 would be 6:37 pm, right?      18 - 12 noon = 6pm


EDIT:  Just confirmed - Israel is 8 hours ahead of Dallas, TX  CST.   
http://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/difference.html?p1=144

I've highlighted the important part of my quote, and I'm standing by it.  I think I've said all that needs to be said

[c64rulez]

Just stay there, man. It's a dangerous and unpredictable world out here.

Well, it's PRIME TIME for me.
I had the cab and doors primed, and was debating with myself a lot considering the flat/curved front.

As much as I hate to admit it, I think I'll stick with the flat because of cp maintenance issues (I want it fixed and not hinged, so I need space in the front)

It's high noon now, dead quiet, and I'm dead tired. Back from the dead later

[DrewKaree]

My son called me from school.  He said for some reason he felt like someone just blew out the flame that he thought was his eternal hope in people that burned like a torch.

I told him that was just c64rulez

[c64rulez]

Man, what grade is he in ? I'm reading this for the fourth time and still cant dig it.
Still, it looks like a saying that needs to be framed.

One of my favorites, is what you say to people who are pulling their hair out cause they didnt have backup for that super-highly-important-data

"It wasnt raining when noah built the ark" 

(And then you need to run real fast) 

Thanks for peeking at my project progress.

[DrewKaree]

Oh sure, I lose ONE FRIGGEN BOOKMARK....

[c64rulez]

What's a single bookmark compared with the eternal flame ?

[Ed_McCarron]

"What's a single bookmark compared with the eternal flame"

Dunno.  Ask the Bangles.

Love the Pac profile on the sides.  Looks like you are making good progress despite everyones best efforts to drag this thread into EE.

[c64rulez]

thanks
My original idea was a giant pacman cab, but it nearly caused my brain to explode, so I settled.

Sorry, but I'm not that familiar with all the jargon used here (learning fast)
What or where or when is EE ?

[c64rulez]

My wife swears she heard mw talking to some wires I was soldering.
I told her it wasnt my fault cause they started it

Do you think it's time for me to quit ?

[markrvp]

Sorry, but I'm not that familiar with all the jargon used here (learning fast)
What or where or when is EE ?

Everything Else.  It's another forum here where we post a subject and then see how far off topic we can take it.

[DrewKaree]

Everything Else.  It's another forum here where we post a subject and then see how far off topic we can take it.

I don't think anyone is really trying all that hard though