9" TSK died on the shelf

[Doughbroz]

This TSK-Nanao, model K29H, was working fine when it went on the spares shelf a few months ago.  At first powerup, there was a little static crackle, but nothing since, even after prolonged cooldowns.  The frontmost ceramic resistor has 104V and 143V, the rearmost one has -6V on the rear terminal and a few +mv on the front.  It is pretty warm, but not smoking hot.  The more I follow the traces, the more confused I get.  Solder connections all look very good, fuses are good,  no hint of smoked parts,  and there is not even a dark spot on the board.  Any ideas, a flow chart, or test points would be more than I have at present, and a source for a cap kit or list of the ones that should be replaced would be helpful, if I get it running.  Thanks

[Ken Layton]

From my notes on the Kaga/TSK model KZ-9H:

No picture:

Replace Capacitor C513 (47 uf @ 50 volt); Resistor R525 (82 ohm, 1/4 watt); and Fuse F902 (GMA 4/10 amp normal blow, Radio Shack # 270-1047 will sub ok).

[Doughbroz]

Thanks Ken.  I'll try those and post how it goes.

[Doughbroz]

Ken, I got back on this thing today, and now I'm really scratching my head.  R525 is a 330 ohm (or. or. brn. red), 1 or maybe 3/4 watt.  C513 is a 47@ 160.  Both have obviously been replaced, so I just wanted to double check before going any further.  The sticker on the side of the chassis says Kaga-TSK, S.N. 10020287, with a California address.  Facing the back, on the near left corner next to the degauss plug, the board is stamped Nanao 6B00120A1.  The tube is a Toshiba.  I can replace these parts with the same things, but no use repeating a mistake if they are the wrong ones.  Thanks

[Ken Layton]

That's the only information I have on that make/model. The last one I worked on was over 20 years ago way before I had a capacitor tester or scope.

Kaga/TSK does not exist anymore (that I'm aware of). They merely imported Nanao monitors and rebranded them with a Kaga/TSK sticker. Perhaps Jomac in Australia may have more information on this monitor?

[Doughbroz]

Thanks again, Ken.  I used the "Send Topic" function to jomac's email addy, so I hope that was the right way to go about it.  If I had only one of these things I would toss it, but I suddenly found an excellent use for the three I have, hence my interest.   

[Jomac]

Kaga Densi was taken over my Nanao , They were 2 sister companies that later dropped the older Kaga range and continued on with Nanao after the merge .
There were a few models that were made by Nanao as Ken said and were badged as Kaga  /TSK but as you have seen had nanao part numbers etc.


I would need to see a picture of this chassis to ID it correctly because lot of the older Kaga stuff was rebadged when it was imported into Australia.
A closeup of the flyback would also be helpful .

[Ken Layton]

It's been ages since I worked on one, but I remember it had some Nanao numbers at the edge of the main circuit board. It did seem to work ok considering Merit had boxed these monitors into a very cramped "Pit Boss" countertop cabinet. That's the only game manufacturer that used this monitor in the USA that I'm aware of.

I was never able to get schematics of it if I recall correctly.

[Doughbroz]

Thanks guys, I think I've got the hang of this
[EDIT]  I can't believe this, but this afternoon I went looking for a part in a pile of junked chassis, and found the remains of an identical twin for this board.  Almost everything has been stripped except for the caps, but C513 is a 50 volt.  R525 is charcoal, but is obviously a 1/4 watt, so I'm confident that what Ken said in his first reply is right.  How the other one worked perfectly with the 330 ohm is a mystery, but I'll stick the 82 in and see what happens.   

[Doughbroz]

I did a little more work on this thing today.  Changed that cap, which had no effect.  That 330 ohm resistor has 113V and 112V on either end, which wouldn't seem to be the problem, especially since it was working as is before.  I'm puzzled by the voltage on the largest ceramic resistor.  Minus 5V on one end and a few plus mv on the other.  What should the voltage be on this thing?  One end leads to the negative terminal of the bridge rectifier at the rear center edge of the board, and the other apparently to the ground trace on the board.  Am I missing something obvious here?

[Doughbroz]

It's aliiiiiiiiiive.  Not sure exactly why because I did several things at once while I had the chassis apart.  Replaced a few more caps, and the yoke pins on the board were arced up pretty badly.  Fixed the slight horizontal tear along the way too.  Got a look at another working chassis identical to this one, and that resistor we've been talking about is some other odd size, a 220 it looks like.  Starting to wonder if different sizes are used to regulate the width or something like that?  And if anyone knows what those two slide switches connected to Q1 and Q3 are for, I would be interested in knowing.  Why am I bothering with these relics?  A year ago I sold a perfectly working Pit Boss, in great condition,  at a MAJOR auction and netted $25.  Last week, a friend wanted some kind of small game for his home.  I slapped one in a Pit Boss cabinet, cost me nothing but a few hours labor, and he was tickled to pay only $300.  Thanks for the help, and happy soldering.