Punch-Out power supply

[MaximRecoil]

I bought some original Punch-Out parts so I can make my machine more original, completely de-JAMMA-tizing it in the process. The group of parts contained several items but I was mainly interested in the genuine Punch-Out power supply (model PP1000A), the complete (except for the control panel harness) Punch-Out wiring harness, and the shield cage cover w/PCB edge connector. Everything was listed as "untested/as-is" but I knew the wiring harness should be fine, and even if it wasn't, they are easy enough to repair; and the shield cover would be fine but what about the power supply? Is there a way I can test it before hooking it up to my board set? Nearly all of the screws that hold the metal housing together have stripped/rounded out heads, so I know someone has been in there before and people usually only go in there when something isn't working; and if they couldn't properly wield a screwdriver, then they probably couldn't be trusted to make repairs on a power supply... 

I assume that just hooking it up to my board set and turning it on would be risking damage to the board if the power supply isn't working right?

[Ken Layton]

The pinout and schematic of that power supply is inside the Playchoice schematic package at bombjack.org

[MaximRecoil]

Do you think it would be a big risk just to hook it up and try it out? I took it apart to get a look at the PCB inside (had to use vice grips on the head of one of those rounded out screws) and everything looks kosher in there. All the components are original with factory soldering from a Wave, so it hasn't been monkeyed with. I figure that over the past 20 years that it has been taken apart maybe to check that fuse in there? The current fuse in there looks fine BTW. I had some good screws with threads that matched the stripped-headed ones so I used those when I put the housing back on.

[Ken Layton]

I think it's worth a try. I've never seen one of these Nintendo supplies go over voltage. Usually a couple of the small electrolytic caps dries out and it has start up problems or the voltage is on the low side.

[MaximRecoil]

There are two identically-colored brown wires coming off the 120 to 100 volt transformer that go to the two AC inputs on the modern switching power supply that is currently in there. Polarity doesn't seem to be marked in any way. Does polarity matter with AC? To hook it up to the PP1000A, I need to splice these brown wires into a pair of wires colored yellow for one and white for the other that have a Molex-type connector on the end to fit into the Molex-type receptacle AC connector on it. I just want to find out if polarity is an issue before I do that. If polarity is an issue, I don't see any way to tell which would be which with both wires from the transformer being identical brown.

[ChadTower]

Polarity isn't an AC issue, it's a device specific issue.  AC devices worked just fine before wall outlets were polarized.

Some still aren't polarized.  When I replaced my bathroom fan, there were two wires hanging there, but the fan had a plug.  The plug was not polarized, so I reasoned that it must not matter which way you plug it in.  I chopped off the plug and connected up the wires (which were all black) and it fired up nicely.

[MaximRecoil]

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. There are a lot of new devices out there that still have AC cord plugs that will go in either direction. Since the two AC wires that come out of the transformer are identical brown, I assume polarity doesn't matter here. I might as well get to wiring it up. I got a complete control panel in decent shape in the mail today and since it has the original CP harness on it, I need to get the old hacked JAMMA crap out of the cab and get the original main harness and power supply that the main harness plugs into in there to hook it all up.

My Super Punch-Out is complete now, except for a couple of cam locks for the coin doors; and is all working other than that damnable arcing flyback on the lower monitor.

Well, I can't speak too soon I guess, as mentioned earlier in this thread, I bought that power supply as part of a lot that was stated to be "untested", so I'll find out soon enough.

[MaximRecoil]

That worked fine, so the power supply seems good. With the original wiring harness all installed, it came up in service mode though. The service switch is still there but wasn't hooked up before with the JAMMA harness. I don't see any actual "switch" to flip on the service switch, probably broken off and apparently in the "on" position when it was broken off. I disconnected the molex connector that went to the service switch and the game came up as normal. So I guess I need a new switch for the service switch bracket.

Also, before with the JAMMA harness, only one of the two coin slots was working, the right-hand slot. With the original harness in there now, only the left-hand coin slot works. That is weird and I don't really have a theory about it yet.

When the JAMMA harness was in there and only the right slot worked, I thought maybe something was wrong with the left slot itself, its wiring or its switch, or possibly even something bad on the game board for the non-working left slot. But, since it is the left slot that is working now with the original harness, and the right one that is not; that theory is blown out of the water.

Edit: Unless; the JAMMA harness was hooked up backwards to the coin slots and both slots work fine in the coin mechanism itself [obviously] but there is only one working coin pin on the game board...

If that is the case, does anyone know how to fix that?

[MaximRecoil]

Okay, both coin slots work now. Don't ask me how I fixed it because I have no idea. I suppose only time will tell if this is going to be an intermittent thing with that #2 coin slot or not.

The only thing I have done today with it is; since I got a real Punch-Out shield cage in the mail today, I screwed that in place and properly mounted the PCB inside and the power supply to the outside brackets and put on the shield cage cover. Not only did both coin slots start working after that, but the volume was noticeably louder too, even though I haven't touched the volume controls in weeks. Maybe by properly mounting everything something is getting a better ground or something?

Also, I replaced the broken service switch with an ordinary SPST toggle switch which mounted perfectly to the half inch hole in the bracket that the original switch was mounted behind; looked like it belonged there. That worked without any problems.