WG monitor help

[TravistyOJ]

I recently purchased a neo geo 4 slot cab, and it has a 25" WG monitor (k7000 series i believe).  I turn it on and every few seconds i heard a popping sound, so i look in the back and a tiny spark, like electricity jumping happens on the top of the flyback.  So I looked around for a while and it seems the ground wasnt going through the isolation transformer, i plugged that in, and that helped but every few minutes or so it does it again. 

Is this a grounding issue or a possible future failure in my flyback?  BTW, whoever wired this cab didn't believe in grounding, so far I have found 3 wires that arent grounded.  The other two are green though and i think they are just for switches that arent being used.

[Ken Layton]

First thing to look at is if the black ground wire leading from the neckboard to the spring that's wrapped tightly against the lower part of the picture tube is connected. If that checks fine then the flyback is just about to have a catastrophic failure. Replace that flyback with a new one right away. Do bot continue to operate the monitor until the flyback is replaced or you'll damage more components.

[TravistyOJ]

I checked the black cable it is hooked up, but it looks like it was broken at one time, and fixed with a twist on cable connector, maybe loose connection? Other than that appears to be plugged in properly.

I have an adjustable power supply (Happ Power Pro 200 watt), I lowered the juice a bit and it seems to not happen anymore, only once when i start it after leaving it cold for a while.   Also I live in a very old house, I think it was built in the 20s, could there be something wrong with the power I am getting from my wall?

[Karetaker]

I think Ken's advice is correct (as always). The reason that guys use a wire nut on that black wire is so they can pull the chassis board out to work on it. I do the same thing with mine when I have to pull them.

[Ken Layton]

Yes, that black ground wire must be cut to remove the chassis for the very first time to work on it. Some people use a wire nut (twist-on) to reconnect it, but I like to use insulated quick disconnects (looks more professional).

I would say then that your flyback is just about ready to explode or arc to adjacent parts and damage the monitor. Better get a new flyback pronto!

[TravistyOJ]

Where can i get a flyback? Are they hard to replace?

[Ken Layton]

Zanen Electronics has the flybacks.

For safety sakes please have a professional replace your flyback.

[monitor_guy]

When replacing the flyback transformer, make sure you don't over solder the pins, as they may also "arc" between them. 

If the FT gets to be too costly, or impractical to replace, email to
sales@billabs.com and they'll gladly sell you a K7000 replacement
chassis for less than a Benjamin.

good luck

[Ken Layton]

Zanen Electronics has the flyback for around $24. I bought several from Penn-Ray a few months ago when they went on sale at $15.

Alva Amusement sells the Wei-ya K7000 replacement chassis for $45.

[TravistyOJ]

OK i am going to order a flyback kit from bob roberts.  I have read a lot about how to do a cap kit, and I am comfortable doing that, but how do I replace a flyback?

Is it soldered to the board, and i just resolder it?  Or is it in like a socket? Do I need to do anything special to the flyback before i remove it?  Any tricks I need to know, is there a flyback replacement FAQ?  Thanks