Author Topic: My first project, a travel Control Panel arcade. (Read 55588 times)

walls83 · « **Reply #40 on:** December 13, 2005, 05:54:47 pm »

Yep you should be in good shape with those.

JonnyBoy · « **Reply #41 on:** December 28, 2005, 04:24:02 pm »

Nothing very interesting, I put 3 coats of poly on the inside of the panel to help ease dust buildup and make the inside a bit easier to clean. Also, I figure it'll seal the wood and add another layer of protection.

Once I get a few more coats on and give it a sand I'll post some pictures. I showed you guys earlier that I was planning on using those corner covers for extra protection, but I was thinking...I think it would look cool with some edge covers as well, something to cover all the seams where the laminate meets. I haven't found exactly what I'm looking for yet but when I do I'll post.

Also, I'm in the process of creating a plexi-glass mount for the 5.25" front panel mount, something that looks classy and finished as opposed to just a hole cut in the side of the box, more on that later.

I also devised a locking mechanism for the lid that uses a barrel lock with a lock arm that has a ninety degree at the end (we have them where I work) and some mending brackets with some washers. Basically, I am going to drill a hole in the front the size of the barrel lock and the hole will be high enough on the front so that when the key is turned, the ninety degree is flush with the top of the box. Then, on the lid, I will have a mending bracket turned so that the edge is at a 45 degree angle and there will be a gap between the bracket and the lid using some washers as spacers. When the key us turned the ninety degree will catch the edge of the mending bracket, causing the top and bottom panels to be secured.

If you need an illustration I can do one real quick.

JonnyBoy · « **Reply #42 on:** December 28, 2005, 09:31:46 pm »

Okay, I just got back from work and I figured a few more things out:

1. I am going to use T-nuts to mount the joysticks to prevent the top of the panel from being uglied up by carriage bolt heads.

2. I found some ninety degree aluminum edges to protect all exposed seams. Those, alongside with the corner protectors, will be primed and painted a flat dark gray to stand out a bit.

3. On the side I am going to use trunk handles (the ones that flop down) that will be primed and painted the same color as the edging, after that they will be dipped in polyurethane.

4. I am going to flushmount the trackball. Because my router was repossessed by my brother, I was thinking about being nice and careful and chiseling the area out (using extremely sharp chisels, of course). Is there any other way you guys think I should do this?

driph · « **Reply #43 on:** December 29, 2005, 06:26:41 pm »

Quote from: JonnyBoy on December 28, 2005, 09:31:46 pm

4. I am going to flushmount the trackball. Because my router was repossessed by my brother, I was thinking about being nice and careful and chiseling the area out (using extremely sharp chisels, of course). Is there any other way you guys think I should do this?

Might want to check your local Home Depot or similar, many of them offer tool rental services. Renting a router for a few hours would probably be better than hacking away at it with a chisel.

Yoder · « **Reply #44 on:** January 02, 2006, 12:13:42 am »

Looks good, man. I may do a project as a unit like that. Don't need a big cab yet...

As far as the tool rental, be sure to take your mom with you. I bet you gotta be 18 to rent tools...

JonnyBoy · « **Reply #45 on:** January 03, 2006, 04:15:44 pm »

The irony of this all is I work in a hardware store. I'll probably just buy a router using my instore discount

.

Well, here's a mockup (using Mameroom's software) of what my panel shall look like with artwork.

Ignore the trackball plate for now.

JonnyBoy · « **Reply #46 on:** January 03, 2006, 04:19:22 pm »

Also, I know the artwork has been beaten to death, but it just looks so cool.

c64rulez · « **Reply #47 on:** January 07, 2006, 06:37:34 pm »

It's not cool
It's damn HOT!

Awesome project. Maybe I'll try something like it after I finish my cab...

JonnyBoy · « **Reply #48 on:** January 07, 2006, 06:44:34 pm »

Thanks for the kind words. You're pac-man profile cab ain't no slouch either (meaning it kicks loads of ass).

A bit of an update. My order of aluminum corners came in. I plan on spraying them and cutting them to legnth sometime this week. I still have to order the corner protectors.

Also, my CP is cut. Pics of that soon. My order from PonyBoy should be arriving soon as well (150 dollars worth).

I also bought some cool little rubber feet.

JonnyBoy · « **Reply #49 on:** January 10, 2006, 03:26:29 pm »

Okay guys, here's the CP. It turned out well, anybody have any advice for flush-mounting a trackball mounting plate? I'm not too handy with a router...

Timoe · « **Reply #50 on:** January 10, 2006, 04:12:42 pm »

Install the mounting plate as it is now. Then trace the perimiter with a pencil.

Now remove the mounting plate. Get out your router and install a straight bit 1/4", 1/2" whatever. Set it so the bit depth is around 1/8" and test it on a scrap piece of wood.

Hold your mounting plate up to the scrap and adjust the depth as necessary to get the exact depth.

Now clamp a straight edge to your control panel so you dont go out of control with your router and rout out the edges JUST up to the lines you drew with a pencil. I would suggest leaving the lines if you can. Just route out right up to the line.

Pop your mounting plate in and cover it up with whatever, CPO or Laminate.

Timoe · « **Reply #51 on:** January 10, 2006, 04:18:34 pm »

I had never done it before this.

Timoe · « **Reply #52 on:** January 10, 2006, 04:19:42 pm »

As you can see in the pic above you are already, better off than me in that you have cut the hole for your trackball much nicer than I.

JonnyBoy · « **Reply #53 on:** January 12, 2006, 06:12:03 pm »

Updates:

My order arrived from PonyBoy and I got my artwork printed on vinyl. I plan on grabbing some plexi and the necessary bits to drill out all the holes for the buttons and the joysticks. I'll keep you updated. I still haven't found a router yet, though. I guess I'll keep looking, my local hardware stores don't rent them out.

Ignore the dark splotch on the vinyl, it's some phenomenon caused by my camera.

markrvp · « **Reply #54 on:** January 12, 2006, 07:03:20 pm »

Johnny:

I really like your panel, but look at your vinyl print compared to your original artwork. All the shadow detail is lost and the color is shifted really badly.

Some of that may be the camera, but if the print is really that off, then have them re-print it.

JonnyBoy · « **Reply #55 on:** January 12, 2006, 07:11:11 pm »

Like I said, it's a ton more vibrant in person, my camera makes it look like dirt. I had them reprint four times.

The image was low resolution to begin with, I may make custom artwork someday but for now this is what I am going with. It looks much better in person.

Thanks for your concern, though.

JonnyBoy · « **Reply #56 on:** January 12, 2006, 07:32:26 pm »

After comparing the printed cpo with a print of the original image, the colors are correct, it just lacks the glossiness...is there a way to make the vinyl glossy? I could laminate it...or possibly do some sort of poly? I don't know.

MikeDeuce · « **Reply #57 on:** January 12, 2006, 08:30:02 pm »

or slap a piece of 1/8" acrylic on top of the entire cp?

JonnyBoy · « **Reply #58 on:** January 12, 2006, 08:31:06 pm »

That'd work.

I planned on using plexi anyway, we'll see how it works out.

JonnyBoy · « **Reply #59 on:** January 13, 2006, 04:52:07 pm »

Update, I was working on the plexi today. I was on my last button and...I cracked it. Well, it was only 7 bucks, I'll try again tomorrow. How did everybody else go about drilling plexi? Well, what I did was I used my panel as the template and started the cut, I made a hole with the tip of the spade bit. Then I turned the panel over and cut the rest the way using the center mark to finish the hole. I tried my best to keep from widening the existing hole, I think I did well because there wasn't any saw dust (well....very little) and a lot of plexi dust. The problem hole was not perfectly round, making it very difficult for me to drill, and unfortunately cracked just enough to make me scrap the piece. I'll try again later tonite.

Timoe · « **Reply #60 on:** January 13, 2006, 05:05:30 pm »

Try Lexan, its a bit more expensive. But it shouldnt crack.

MikeDeuce · « **Reply #61 on:** January 13, 2006, 06:46:25 pm »

Is the acrylic clamped down on a flat surface, like scrap wood that you can drill through? The only times I have bad experiences with plastics (particularly thin stuff like 1/8") is if the piece moves at all while cutting. It's sad how unforgiving the material is, but if you always work with it with a little bit of paranoia the odds start to turn in your favor

JonnyBoy · « **Reply #62 on:** January 13, 2006, 06:49:43 pm »

I went and picked up another piece of plexi (I get it at work for 5 bucks!) and a few more clamps, to keep things nice and tight. I also ordered a dremel attachment, the router one. I got that for 20 bucks (I love employee discounts).

markrvp · « **Reply #63 on:** January 13, 2006, 08:08:59 pm »

Make sure there is wood underneath the plexi when you drill into it and

GO SLOW

JonnyBoy · « **Reply #64 on:** January 13, 2006, 08:48:51 pm »

Yeah, I guess mistakes are meant to be learned from. Thanks for the help.

c64rulez · « **Reply #65 on:** January 14, 2006, 02:08:35 am »

I think it's best to sandwich the plexi between two pieces of
scrap. (clamped real tight all around)

When I drilled mine, I didn't have to slow down much when
going through it.
The only thing that cracked here and there were the plexi cutouts.

JonnyBoy · « **Reply #66 on:** January 18, 2006, 10:09:17 pm »

Updates and progress:

Well, I finally got my dremel routing attachment and did some routing on my CP. It turned out extremely well, I'm actually very happy with it. I used a straight edge and measured the distance needed to make a perfect recess. It's at work now, so I'll get pictures tomorrow night.

That's one of the major burdens taken care of, next is the holes in the plexi. Well, I bought myself a bi-metal holesaw (a real heavy duty one for only 5 bucks). I tested it out and the hole came out perfect, so tomorrow I am going to finish the rest of my plexi-cutting.

I should have the CP up and operational by the weekend.

c64rulez · « **Reply #67 on:** January 19, 2006, 04:52:12 am »

Quote from: JonnyBoy on January 18, 2006, 10:09:17 pm

I should have the CP up and operational by the weekend.

Amen

JonnyBoy · « **Reply #68 on:** January 19, 2006, 02:07:25 pm »

That's just the CP, mind you, not the entire thing.

c64rulez · « **Reply #69 on:** January 19, 2006, 02:37:00 pm »

Quote from: JonnyBoy on January 19, 2006, 02:07:25 pm

That's just the CP, mind you, not the entire thing.

All sentences of the type " I should have the (insert object here) up and operational by the (insert time here)" should be followed by amen

JonnyBoy · « **Reply #70 on:** January 19, 2006, 03:16:35 pm »

True, true. In a few hours I'll be heading back over to work to finish up the cuts, expect pictures when I get home.

JonnyBoy · « **Reply #71 on:** January 19, 2006, 09:45:40 pm »

Pictures!

Well, tonite I went to work and drilled my plexi, it sucked...really bad. I hated it. Mostly because I had 2 drills, one 9.7 volt (or something close to that) and a single-speed corded drill. The cordless one was too wimpy and the corded one was too hardcore, but I managed to get through it. Spade bits suck compared to forstners for cutting plexi, I found out. I returned the unopened spade for a plexi-cutting machine of a forstner.

Here's the results:

JonnyBoy · « **Reply #72 on:** January 19, 2006, 09:49:24 pm »

And a final shot with a button in place. I know I know, the plexi is filthy, I didn't clean it off well before taking the pictures, but you get the idea.

c64rulez · « **Reply #73 on:** January 20, 2006, 10:38:00 am »

very good.
I see youre cp is up.

Now all that's left is "operational"

JonnyBoy · « **Reply #74 on:** January 20, 2006, 11:52:37 am »

Yeah, unfortunately I have one hell of an edge on the side of the plexi to sand down. That will add a bit of time. Also, does anybody know of an L or C shaped molding? I've been searching but I can't seem to find much.

JonnyBoy · « **Reply #75 on:** January 26, 2006, 09:35:03 pm »

Little update:

Okay, I got the corners I ordered. They were 8 bucks for a set of 4, I wasn't complaining because they looked like a nice shape and pretty heavy duty. Well, they arrived today and I must say, these things are hardcore. They're a bit over 1/8 of an inch thick and feel like they could take a pounding.

I also gave my box a good sand and a final coat of poly, along with a coat of black paint on the trim. I'll take pictures later.

JonnyBoy · « **Reply #76 on:** March 29, 2006, 08:30:10 am »

Okay guys, long time no post.

I've been distracted by Calculus, guitars, music and highschool. I'm back though, and I will be making progress. I've been idling too long. I'm almost there, I just need to push myself over the edge.

Take it easy, hopefully more progress soon.

c64rulez · « **Reply #77 on:** March 29, 2006, 12:00:50 pm »

Quote from: JonnyBoy on March 29, 2006, 08:30:10 am

Okay guys, long time no post.

I've been distracted by Calculus, girls, guitars, music and highschool.

Putting calculus and girls on the same list of distractions is blasphemy (or just calculus)

JonnyBoy · « **Reply #78 on:** March 29, 2006, 12:10:10 pm »

Sadly I've been paying more attention to Calculus than I have been to girls. I need to fix that.

JonnyBoy · « **Reply #79 on:** March 29, 2006, 06:17:54 pm »

Well, I did some painting tonite. I primed all my corners with automotive primer, dark grey. The cold weather is going to make the drying time ridiculously long, but I should be able to sand/respray by tomorrow and have the corners done for the weekend. After I finish the corners, next comes the angles for ALL the edges, I need to cut them to fix (I bought a small miter box for perfect edges) and then prime/paint them.


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