No picture on monitor..? EDIT: FIXED!

[Nipedley]

I removed the chassis yesterday to install a capkit (my first) and put it back in today, but i get no picture on the screen... The crt neck board is connected properly, I tried re-connecting it to be sure but got a (mild) electric shock.. never happened before!
The wire from the braid to the neck board is also connected, and the only thing I can think of is the anode. I have reconnected it, though not sure if it is in 100% correctly because I've never done it before... There is no glow in the back of the tube. Suggestions? All I did was install a capkit, nothing else :S

[SirPeale]

First, pull the chassis and make sure that you installed all the caps the right way.  You *did* do them one at a time to minimize error, right?

[Nipedley]

First, pull the chassis and make sure that you installed all the caps the right way.

[Ken Layton]

Did you do a nice clean soldering job? Did you also look at any other solder joints (not just on the caps you changed) for any signs of being bad? Did you remember to clip off the excess wire leads of the new caps after you soldered them?

Is everything reconnected properly?

[Nipedley]

Did you do a nice clean soldering job? Did you also look at any other solder joints (not just on the caps you changed) for any signs of being bad? Did you remember to clip off the excess wire leads of the new caps after you soldered them?

Is everything reconnected properly?

Yep the solder was good, the only other solder I looked at was the red wire that goes from the lopt to the neckboard (it had a hole in it - LOPT replaced) but i ended up leaving it as it was. The old bad solder (or that looked bad) was the sloppy soldering on the LOPT but that's been there 6 or 7 years so I figured it wasok. I clipped off all the excess leads yes

And as for reconnection well.. The wire that goes from the braid to the neckboard is connected, the yoke wires are connected, and the anode is connected (though maybe not right? I dont know about that one). The anode doesnt twist around, it moves a little and is clipped what looks like just under the surface of the tube - maybe I should mention, there was some sort of substance on top of the anode cap that cracked and fell off (the plastic is all still as it should be) - any reason for concern there?

[Nipedley]

It's fixed! Turns out the remote adjustment board was one of my spares that didnt actually work - thus, no picture on the screen. Replaced it just wondering if anything would change and got my picture back! Though very dark with colours all wrong (I realise a capped monitor would need adjustment) So I'm going to go do that now =)
Thanks for all your help in the past Ken! Now I hope this capkit fixes the sync problems hehe