vertical deflection? wg u5000

[johnx]

after doing a bit of sluthing i discovered that the monitor in my blitz 99 cabinet is a 25" wg u5000.  when i turn on the power (using modified pc power supply) all i get is a horizontal line that flashes and i can hear stuff going on.  from what i have read in this forum it appears that i have a vertical deflection issue.

i am pretty handy with a soldering iron but i havent delt with monitors before.  what exactly am i getting myself into?  is there an easy fix (replacing the neck and deflection boards)?  is there a specific guide to fix this problem?

thanks,

jx

[Ken Layton]

Actually that is a common problem. So common in fact that Wells-Gardner came up with an upgrade/repair kit for that problem.

Call the parts dept at Wells-Gardner (1-800-336-6630 or 708-290-2100) and order these two kits:

# S05F0000-000F Service Kit, U-5000 Vertical Sweep repair/upgrade

# S04E0000-000F Service Kit, U-2000 & U-5000 power supply

Installing both of those kits will repair the monitor and prevent any future problems.

[johnx]

thanks for your help, those parts are ordered and should be here by thursday.  ill let you know how it all goes...

[johnx]

actually, while i wait, i may as well ask some more questions...

-will i have to discharge my monitor to install these kits?  (i assume yes)
-can i remove the neck board without discharging the monitor?
-i found that discharge.ppt show, is it really that simple?  if done carefully, how dangerous/difficult is discharging the monitor?
-the u5000 doesnt happen to have a auto-discharger on it does it?

thanks again.

jx

[Ken Layton]

There's a discharging FAQ here on this forum.

[Karetaker]

Hey Ken.... While you have your mind in U5000 mode. I've upgraded some components on all of mine. I change R111 from a 1W to a 2W. Every U5000 I ever had opened this resistor. I also change R104 from a 7W to a 10W as it is a common failure as well.  I also added a ground plug from the board to the chassis pan. I have all the WG kits installed on all mine. Are there any other modification that you do to make this things more dependable?

[johnx]

so ive run into a problem installing the vert kit.  i cant get the stupid IC601 off of the board.  does anyone have a suggestion on how to desolder the IC?  google's been no help... 

jx

[dabone]

http://tinyurl.com/9tz44









These work great.


also you might want to get some of this also.

http://tinyurl.com/975q3




Later,
dabone

[Ken Layton]

Yup, a good sucker and a good clean soldering iron works well for me. I never have any problems removing vertical output ic's.

[johnx]

awesome.  finally got the vert kit done (havent put the power thing on yet).  thanks so much for all your help.

my new question is this...

when i first cut on the machine, the monitor is REALLY wavy (image squggles around a whole bunch) and after a few minutes of being on the picture straightens out but still is a little wavy.  what is this and how do i fix it.

thanks again,

jx

[Ken Layton]

Install the power supply kit AND install a capkit.

[johnx]

HELP!

i installed the power kit and everything went well.

i installed the cap kit and now my monitor doesnt even power up when i turn on the cabinet.
all it does now is put out this clicking noise, but i can hear the game boot and all...

there was one cap installed where i didnt know what direction it went (didnt mark the origional and its not diagramed), which was C512.  i also accidently removed a cap that was connected to Q501.  i _believe_ i put back the right way, but not sure.  Both on the neckboard.  anyone know what the right direction for those two are?

any ideas?  ive sank a fair amount of money into this project and i dont want it dieing on me... 

EDIT-
there was also one cap that was about 100v more than the original... does that make a difference?

jx

[Ken Layton]

Sounds like you must have put a cap in backwards. Always double check polarity before and after changing a cap. Did you remember to clip the leads off the new capacitors after soldering them in?

The power supply kit for the U5000 contains a static sensitive transistor and I think there was a diode in it too. I trust you followed safe static sensitive component handling procedures?

[johnx]

the power kit went on fine.  i powered it up and made sure everything worked after i installed it.  there were only two caps that were replaced that didnt have the direction on the pcb.  i guess ill just switch those around and see if that fixes it.

[SirPeale]

There were only two caps that were replaced that didnt have the direction on the pcb.  i guess ill just switch those around and see if that fixes it.

1) Always visually note which way the caps go. 

2) Always do one cap at a time.

[Ken Layton]

Remember that monitor manufacturers don't always indicate the capacitor polarity on the circuit board. Generally it's accidental that a cap polarity marking gets left out of the silkscreening process. Some manufacturers like Electrohome and Hantarex are well know for having marked the polarity WRONG on the circuit boards. It's always a good idea to look at the polarity markings on the caps that are in there before doing a capkit to save additional headaches/grief.

[Karetaker]

C512 is pretty obvious.... the negative side of the cap should be connected to the side with the huge landing.... that is a ground. There are caps on both sides of C512 that share the same ground area. As for the cap on Q501, the negative side of the cap is connected to W515 (bare jumper).... the positive side of the cap is connected to the transistor.

I don't think this will cure your problem with the ticking though. That ticking means the monitor is in protect. Check your solders and make sure you didn't blob any solder where it's not supposed to be. If you are unsure, de-solder and resolder the joint in question. Double check all the polarity of the caps (as previously said) and polarity of everything else installed..... diode or anything of relevance.