25" Kortek chassis blowing fuse

[Toonces]

I have a Neo Geo with a 25" monitor in it. The monitor was working good but showed signs of needing a cap kit. I've done many in the past so I thought I would tackle this one after playing a few games of Stikers 1945. Long story short, I was reaching through the control panel to shut things down (too lazy to unlock the door) and bumped the jamma connector on the Neo Geo and the monitor went out. I could still hear the game playing but no power to the monitor. Well, since I was planning on a cap kit anyways, I removed the chassis and did the cap kit. I checked, and the fuse was blown so I replaced it as well. I double checked all of the caps for proper orientation (I go slow and do the caps one at a time as I remove them. I replaced all of them with the same value from a combination of a K7000 cap kit and what I have on hand from a spares bin I got from an op. I was able to replace all of the caps without really knowing what kind of chassis it is specifically). I replaced the chassis and tried to "fire it up". The problem I have is it still continues to blow the fuse as soon as power is applied. My monitor repair experiance pretty much extends to cap kits at this point.

I have another chassis from a broken WG (U5000? it has P738-E on the board and does both Low & Med Res). I have not tried that one but the reason that was removed was because someone cracked the neck on the monitor it came off of. I haven't tried that one because I don't know the proper impedance from the original tube as it's long gone.

I guess I could grab a replacement one from Alva Amusements but would like to be able to fix the original if it's an easy thing to check out and repair. If needed, I can take pics of the original Kortek chassis. Other than Kortek on the neckboard, there are no other identifying marks I have found.

Thanks for any assistance!

Toonces

[pcb]

I'm not sure what you have going on, but check out the generic troubleshooting guide on Randy Fromm's site.

http://slot-tech-ftp.serveftp.com:8080/technical_department/

Best,

 - Mike -

[Toonces]

I decided to go with a replacement chassis from Alva Amusements. $69 + shipping for a 25" chassis. I am using the 825H. Not sure what he difference is but they also have the 826H. Both require isolation and are for low impedance tubes. They both have the same specs too from what the girl was able to tell me. I imagine that the 826 can drive a 26" monitor where the 825 is for 25".

[Ken Layton]

Let us know how this replacement chassis works out.