my asteroids

[Kevin Mullins]

Cool.... just so you see why that was done that way at some point.
It's all in that Vector Monitor FAQ Guide as well.
(cutting the resistors out that is)

Keep us posted.

[SirPoonga]

Hmmm, wonder if I should take those resistors back out then...
I put them in because I saw them in the schematic and the spots ont he board.  The jumpers were poorly soldered so it was an obvious conversion.  I figured it wa sa quick hack to save money or something.  I saw the resistors when right to the bridge which was bad.  I figured the resistors protect the bridge and that is why the bridge failed.

[Kevin Mullins]

The bridge rectifier was a common failure all it's own. (good find though)

I have always left the large resistors in. The modification was just because the fact that they would burn up due to certain voltage failures, so in essence they were just ruined for no reason. The monitor will function properly with or without them as long as "everything else" is OK. (if removed put the jumper back in) You might think about removing them just until everything else is working properly, then put them back in. (just to keep from burning them up while working on it)
Just a suggestion.

Have ya had a chance to really read through the FAQ Guide?
Loads of info.... and being familiar with whats in there will make it easier to refer back to it.

You should make a "map" of all the pinouts going to the monitor and the EHT unit.
Mark what the voltages SHOULD be and then also mark what you get when you read it with the meter.
Gonna have to get good and stable voltages from the X and Y signals from the PCB along with everything else.
Pretty much everything leading to and from the monitor.

If for any reason you see a bright white dot in the center of the tube....TURN IT OFF

[SirPoonga]

Check ALL your voltages coming from the AR board to the deflection board and their connections.

If I am reading my WG 19V2000 manual right the voltages coming through the plug are
pin 7 - AC 30V RMS
pin 8 - Center tap of 30-0-30
pin 10 - AC 30V RMS
pin 11 - main power supply ground
pin 12 Filament 6.6VAC RMS

How do I test AC?  Put my multimeter in AC mode of course.  But do I test the 30V pins against the center tap or ground?

I will have to read through the thread again because I think I remember asking this question before.

[Kevin Mullins]

AC -
Have one meter lead on the pin you are testing.......
And the other meter lead on one of the lines that power the monitor.
If you get a dead zero reading, check with the other line that powers the monitor.

Make sure your meter is not only set to AC (like you said) but make sure it is set high enough to accept a higher voltage than what you are testing for.
(unless you have one of them fancier meters that is all automatic like)

[SirPoonga]

Have one meter lead on the pin you are testing.......
And the other meter lead on one of the lines that power the monitor.
If you get a dead zero reading, check with the other line that powers the monitor.

But the pin I am testing is the line that powers the monitor?

[Kevin Mullins]

Duh . . . I was thinking about regular monitors for a second there with a 100-120v power cord going to them.....

Use the center tap pin for your "ground" meter lead. You should be able to use that pin for all your AC tests. (pin 8 )

The 90v test at the EHT is what I'm curious about. It's all in the manual I believe.

[SirPoonga]

The 90v test at the EHT is what I'm curious about. It's all in the manual I believe.

Yeah, I'm guessing it is something with that since
1) the neon light comes on
2) everything displayed fine but was blooming before I changed the diode.