Noob here with cabinet plans

[Varao]

Hello all,
Just wanted to introduce myself and my project. I have found so much great info on here that my project wouldn

[CJK]

The only thing I can help you with is the T-molding question. (I'm a cab-building newbie, but a long-time woodworker.)   

You don't say what sort of wood you'll be using, so I'll assume plywood or MDF. You asked if you had to use T-molding or whether you could just round over the edges. The short answer is "yes"; the longer answer is "yes, but..."

If you are using plywood, you will see the various plies on any exposed edges. This may or may not be acceptable to you cosmetically speaking. If you are painting your cabinet, it will likely be less obvious than if you are staining it or using a natural finish, either of which will show the plies quite clearly. Even if you paint the cabinet, you'll want to use a good wood filler to seal the pores in the edges so you get an even finish. Plan to seal the wood, apply one coat of primer, seal again in case you missed any spots, then two (or more) finish coats.

If you're using MDF, you definitely need to do something to seal the ends -- MDF soaks up paint on the "end grain." A good method is to thin some Bondo (or other polyester body filler) and apply it generously to the end grain. When it's dry, sand it carefully, then apply the primer (oil-based! MDF and water don't mix!). Then any compatible top coat(s) for the final finish.

Hope this helps.

-- Chris

[M3talhead]

Go with the T-molding. I've built 2 cabs and I can say its easier, cheaper, and looks more authentic. Its popular for a reason.

[flampoo]

1. Measure the diameter of the pushbuttons in photoshop. If they're any smaller/larger than 1.25" wide you've probably skewed the template.

3. You don't need glossy paper. I've printed several custom marquees and I've done most of them on a heavyweight matte paper. Transparencies aren't necessary, either.

4. T-molding is the way to go.

5. Go paint. Cheaper. Easier. Authentic. IMHO, formica-covered cabs just don't look right. I've never seen one in an arcade or in a pizza parlor.

[pjdangerous]

Are you talking about the button templates that came with the book? All my templates came out too big on both of my computers and when I would print them. There may be a setting that I need to change from default, but I found that shrinking the dimensions by 80% gave just about the proper size.

[pjdangerous]

Also as a suggestion, I really like your artwork and I know that having it be too symmetrical is sometimes a bad thing, but it seems like the left side is a too simple and less complex than the right side. On the marquee/or bottom Maybe remove some of the SF characters or add more to the left. And On the CP it might help to rescale the characters on the left to match the characters on the right, and add a tank guy on the left.

[markc74]

ALWAYS go for t-molding.  It makes all the difference... 

[Varao]

Thanks for all the help guys I do appreciate it I guess I will go with the T-molding. Can someone recomend a good place to get some, and can I do the routing with a dremel?

The holes are way bigger from the capcom template. When I saved the pic out from the site it saved as a GIF and it comes out to be 30x40" so it is way off.

CJK thanks for the wood working tips I will need them!

Thanks again guys I will post up pics and progress reports while this gets under-way!

[Varao]

Made a Marquee design today.

[shodokan123]

not bad...

if u got aim, hit me up, i'm making a fighter cab too and i will let u in on a few things

aim = sh0d0kan

maybe even help you with your other artwork.. spice it up a bit.

Also you will want to clean the images in there ALOT... they look outlined to ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- and well.. that looks bad.  The only one which looks right the the MS part

[markrvp]

I have seen a lot of people use the fighting character artwork on their cabs, but I don't remember seeing all those at Localarcade.  Where are you getting all the artwork?

[Varao]

Many many places its hard to say which one is the best. I have built up quite a libary over the years of building sticks, doing AV's, posters etc. If you want some specific art let me know I have a ton from an almost complete falcoon libary to specific game character design. Like the SNK art work on the stick design is from the new KOF neo Wave let me know and I will pass on the links I have that still work and give you some artwork

[RTSDaddy2]

Hi, and welcome!

I really can't add anything here, except to continue to agree with the folks about using T-molding.  I thought at one point we'd leave it off of ours too, but decided to order some and see...and you will be amazed at how much it adds to the cabinet.

Secondly, I dont' know your scehdule, but if you don't have a lot of free time this summer don't push yourself to have it done in 2-3 months.  In other words, "patience is a virtue."  Take your time and do it right - you'll be happy you did so later. 

RTSDaddy2

[Varao]

Thanks for the tips! I have decided to go with the T-molding so I better go get a router because once this first one is done I will probably start on another soon after that is a true mame. I started to buy materials tonight and came accross some questions.

Does everyone use 3/4" MDF? Has anyone tried 1/2" does it hold up as well? If I am going to use 3/4" MDF its going to be quite heavy to move should I get wheels? If I do get wheels does anyone know of where to get some with true brakes so the cab dosent move?

Thanks everyone it is strating to come along and I really appreciate all the help!!

[CJK]

These are really nice ones -- I chose them because they have urethane tires (no marks on the tile or hardwood floors) and because they lock both the wheel AND the swivel mechanism when you engage the brake.

http://woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=1989

You might be able to find them cheaper elsewhere, but I have a Woodcraft store locally and just picked them up there.

-- Chris

[tivogre]

These are really nice ones -- I chose them because they have urethane tires (no marks on the tile or hardwood floors) and because they lock both the wheel AND the swivel mechanism when you engage the brake.

http://woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=1989

You might be able to find them cheaper elsewhere, but I have a Woodcraft store locally and just picked them up there.

-- Chris

I used these too.  Can't recommend highly enough.  They cost a BIT more than the Home Depot variety... but they will hold up, won't mark your floors, and won't develop a "flat spot" if left locked under a heavy load for a long period of time.

These were made for heavy shop tools, but they're perfect for our application.