No, I never did finish. I actually gave up and sold the board. Glad to hear that you got it to work. Just curious, what did you all have to do to get it to work?
Oh, it was lots of fun...
Basically, the Video Card, PIC chip (U37) and Boot EEPROM (U18) needed to be swapped. I managed to end up with another complete Vegas boardset which already had a Showtime Gold sound ROM on it, so I just left that there. Installed the hard drive, and the game fired right up.
Next was wiring up the sticks to the I40. The hardest part of all this was getting the necessary parts (the connectors). Panduit made the connectors that were originally used, but they're not making them anymore. I found out from a local electronics store that they sold that business to ITW, which now makes them under the name ITW Pancon. Part numbers for the connectors are CE100F-22-xxy, where xx is the number of circuits and y is either not there, or D or C depending on where you're searching (when ordering from ITW you can only get them in either packs of 100 (C) or 500 (D). So if you want the 15 pin connector, it would be CE100F-22-15 (or CE100F-22-15-C/D). You'll need a couple of 15's, 12's, 7's and 5's. The terminating tool MMIT-100F is basically a must for this project (cost about $40). You'll also need a couple of "wire-to-wire splices" to connect two female connectors together. I ended up getting a couple MWWS100-36 since they're breakable and I was able to make 2x15 and my 1x5 pin adapters from one piece.
I have the 39" 'Deluxe' cabinet (YMMV with a 25" cab or other that doesn't use the extension harness), so my modifications are done on either end of the extension harness. The extension on the CP end has 4x15 pin connectors that lead to the 4x15 pin connectors wiring up each player's controls (there are other connections hanging off the harness, but they're not relevant).
Basically, the 15 pin from the CP is split off to two connectors. Another 15 pin to handle the buttons, and a 12 pin to the I40.
On each CP 15 pin connector, there's the key, +5V, ground and 12 control wires (8 for the stick, and 4 buttons). For P1 and P2, the buttons are inputted on the JAMMA connector on SportStation as opposed to the "Gun1" connector for the Gauntlets. So the button wires need to connect back on what used to be a stick wire (since Gaunts used the JAMMA for P1 and P2 joys). P3 and P4 buttons can map back to the same positions, since I modify that from the other end on the Gun2 connector. The +5, Ground and 8 joy wires connect to the I40. The 8 joy wires map pretty much exactly to the I40 (pin2 to pin2, etc), just watch for the key and skip over that position.
The 15 pins coming from the mobo connect to the new connector you made coming from the CP. P1-P4 should have only 4 wires on each connector so far (the buttons). On P1 and P2, connect up the +5 and GND (pins 1 and 15, red and black wires) to a 5pin connector for the I40 power. I also used 2 unused wires from P3 to connect to the grounds on the AUX board. The 8 remaining positions on P4 were used for I40 input and output.
On the mobo side of the harness, Gun2 was connected to two 15 pin connections for P3 and P4's buttons. Additionally, the 4 input wires from P4 were mapped to the up/down/left/right connections on the P4 header. The 4 output wires coming from the CP were put on a separate 15 pin going to the AUX out board. The two ground wires from P3 were also put on that 15 pin).
Last but not least, the joysticks themselves need to have the optical board assembly rotated so that the 12 pin connector faces the monitor (when the CP is closed). I couldn't rotate the whole stick since the metal CP won't line up the posts with a different orientation. So by removing the 4 black screws you can remove the optical assembly and rotate it.
Once you connect everything up to the mainboard you should be able to test everything out. Since the coin door et al. has exactly the same connection, you should still have access to the service/volume/credit buttons on the inside even before you start playing with I40 connections. I spent a lot of time in switch tests making sure I had all the wires going to the right places.
It's been an interresting project, frustrating at times, but I think I learned quite a bit from it.