Author Topic: BLACK MONITOR GOES TICK TICK TICK ... (Read 18986 times)

grantspain · « **Reply #40 on:** April 20, 2007, 02:38:21 pm »

get us some better pictures of the component side of the chassis and we can tell you.
normally its a big transistor bolted or clipped to the heat shield near the flyback,can be of various transistor types but normally it will start BUH,BU,2SC

grantspain · « **Reply #41 on:** April 20, 2007, 02:45:40 pm »

i just looked at the solder side pics and it looks like q406,is that transitor q406

grantspain · « **Reply #42 on:** April 20, 2007, 02:48:57 pm »

just checked the spec on 2sc5584,it is the horizontal deflection transistor.when you change it check the diode next to it as well

IntruderAlert · « **Reply #43 on:** April 20, 2007, 03:02:27 pm »

So change both of these and then test it again?

Any good source for single units like these other than ebay?

grantspain · « **Reply #44 on:** April 20, 2007, 03:08:39 pm »

you probably won't need to change the diode just check it with a multimeter.
do a google search for 2sc5584 for supplier in your country,its a quite powerful transistor so i am guessing this is a multi frequency monitor so try and get the exact type although there are a few alternatives.
the spec of this transistor is;
npn silicon triple diffused
1500v 150w 20a
top-3l(package type)

IntruderAlert · « **Reply #45 on:** April 20, 2007, 03:22:20 pm »

OK, I'll try that first.

The manufacturer of the FMQG5FS diode is SANK according to some info I found through google but that is all that I know about this diode.
Maybe I won't need to replace it.

Thanks!

grantspain · « **Reply #46 on:** April 20, 2007, 03:23:38 pm »

have you got a multimeter?if not why not

IntruderAlert · « **Reply #47 on:** April 20, 2007, 04:04:08 pm »

Yes, I have both a digital and an analog one but I don't remember if either has the diode and transistor testing function like some of the newer models.

I'll check when I return home.

IntruderAlert · « **Reply #48 on:** April 21, 2007, 04:52:18 am »

Neither of them have the diode / transistor test built in.

SirPeale · « **Reply #49 on:** April 21, 2007, 05:14:01 am »

A digital multimeter w/out a diode test? I don't think I've ever seen one like that. Even the cheapy $3.00 meter I picked up at Big Lots has a diode test.

IntruderAlert · « **Reply #50 on:** April 21, 2007, 05:20:48 am »

I see it now..
Oh well.. it's 5 A.M. and I'm half asleep

not a good time to start fooling around with this thing i guess

IntruderAlert · « **Reply #51 on:** April 21, 2007, 05:36:05 pm »

I ordered a 2sc5584
I guess I'll go ahead and remove this one

Should I remove the diode in order to test it?

grantspain · « **Reply #52 on:** April 21, 2007, 05:41:19 pm »

its best to

modessitt · « **Reply #53 on:** April 22, 2007, 12:10:34 pm »

I hope you pulled the C5584 transistor and tested it before ordering the new part. I had one of these that I was measuring a "short" across several combos of the legs. Turns out the transistor was fine. There was a 1 ohm resistor between two legs, causing my meter to think it was shorted, while another set of legs were connected through a coil. Once the part is pulled you can even read this "short" across the holes. Turned out to be caps, but I didn't know this for sure until I pulled one leg of every part lin the circuit ooking for whatever was causing the shorts across the holes......

IntruderAlert · « **Reply #54 on:** April 22, 2007, 10:22:26 pm »

I didn't pull it yet.
I was planning on trying one of those cheap desoldering irons from radio shack instead of using the braid like i normally do but I haven't had time to run by there yet.
Maybe tomorrow.

grantspain · « **Reply #55 on:** April 23, 2007, 02:58:00 am »

that soldering iron looks o.k and its a lot better than using braid.
when you meter the transistor if its faulty you will have a dead short on 2 of the legs.
the diode next to it is a ultra fast recovery diode(just a bit of info)

IntruderAlert · « **Reply #56 on:** April 24, 2007, 11:17:33 pm »

ok, I finally got the desoldering tool and I love it!
I removed the transistor and diode and set my digital meter to the diode setting.
Here are the results.
Please help me figure out what this means.

I also tested the new transistor that I just purchased and all of the results were the same except the very first reading was 442 instead of 435.

IntruderAlert · « **Reply #57 on:** April 24, 2007, 11:59:25 pm »

I also took pictures of the other chips that are attached to heatsinks:

modessitt · « **Reply #58 on:** April 25, 2007, 01:53:57 am »

That is not a "1" on your meter, it is an "l" i.e. a lower-case "L" with means "overload" to tell you the resistance is infinite. No zeroes means there isn't a short. I assume this transistor test was with the transistor out of the board? Since you already ordered a new transistor, go ahead and replace it, but i doubt this is going to fix it. Have you changed the caps yet?

grantspain · « **Reply #59 on:** April 25, 2007, 03:16:17 am »

hmm,yes the reading seems to indicate the transistor is o.k.
because we are yet to id the monitor we are pissing in the wind with this,andamiro have a u.s office,have you tried to contact them to see exactly which monitor you have(although i am sure it will be a kortek)
once we id the monitor there are other sites with repair tips that can be used.
i had problems with a few ceronix chassis and the faults turned out to be very obscure but common.
like modessitt said it may be wise to do a cap change,it costs very little and does not take a long time,i tend to do this as a matter of course with any monitor i am working on anyway

IntruderAlert · « **Reply #60 on:** April 25, 2007, 05:31:59 am »

The last time I checked I could not find a USA office for Andamiro.
A couple of years ago when I bought this cab I contacted the Korea office and they were extremely suspicious.
Instead of answering my question they started asking me questions as to how I acquired this unit since it was supposed to be sold only in Korea.
..at that time anyway.

I didn't replace the caps.
I emailed Randy Fromm about this problem and he said "It's not a bad capacitor."
Plus I don't see any bulging or leaky caps.
I'll change them if I have to but now I am thinking that the problem might be this transistor which is actually located closer to the transformer.

Does anyone have information on this transistor ?
I guess I can pull and test it anyway.
YEA! I get to use my new iron again!

IntruderAlert · « **Reply #61 on:** April 25, 2007, 06:35:59 am »

I just sent out several emails to various andamiro addresses.
Maybe someone will be helpful this time.

The only PDF document for a monitor that I can find on their web site is this one:
http://www.andamiro.com/pdf/hammer-e-2.pdf

Which is for this prize redemption game:

http://www.andamiro.com/eng/business/business_02.html

I have to get some sleep now.
Unless someone comes up with a better idea I'll remove and test the SSH 10N80A 044 transistor tomorrow.

Thanks for helping!

IntruderAlert · « **Reply #62 on:** April 25, 2007, 09:48:40 am »

I found the PDF Data Sheet for the SSH10N80A

http://www.fulcrum.ru/Read/CDROMs/FAIRCHILD-2002.July/DISK3/PDFs/Data%20Sheets/020/660/500/SSH10N80A.pdf

modessitt · « **Reply #63 on:** April 25, 2007, 11:30:37 am »

Since Randy Fromm isn't sitting on top of your chassis, I would take his suggestions as advice, not law, no matter how much he screams. When I had a WG monitor do the tick-tick-tick, I called WG Tech support and they had me changing transistors, coils, diodes, resistors...... and after all that it still ticked! I finally asked if changing some caps might help and they said it was worth a try. Changed out the caps in the power supply and it worked!

I have also had a monitor with a horizontal line, indicating deflection failure. A cap kit didn't fix it. The problem was that it worked on a different tube before I pulled it for mine. Everyone swore up and down it was a chassis problem. Turned out it was the yoke, even though several highly-respected monitor gurus assured me there was NO WAY the yoke could be the problem.

Ten bucks in caps and an hour of your time (if you're not used to doing it) is a small price to pay to rule this out... and will help your monitor look better and last longer when it is fixed.....

IntruderAlert · « **Reply #64 on:** April 25, 2007, 12:09:36 pm »

You make a good point.
I suppose I'll pull this SSH10N80A and test it tonight.
If it tests out ok then I'll probably be ordering a set of caps.

grantspain · « **Reply #65 on:** April 25, 2007, 01:09:25 pm »

according to the website they have a u.s branch http://www.andamiro.com/eng/contact/contact_01.html

IntruderAlert · « **Reply #66 on:** April 25, 2007, 02:34:24 pm »

I sent an email there last night as well as 3 other addresses but so far no reply.

Q*Bert_OP · « **Reply #67 on:** May 01, 2007, 07:32:13 pm »

FYI, also check your B+ voltage

Q*Bert_OP · « **Reply #68 on:** May 01, 2007, 07:38:57 pm »

note.

IntruderAlert · « **Reply #69 on:** May 02, 2007, 08:56:26 am »

I've been too busy to get back to this but maybe tonight...

I'll be sure to take another look at those caps Q*Bert
But what do you mean by

Quote

FYI, also check your B+ voltage


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