Author Topic: Put in new input plug on a WG? (Read 3159 times)

mamerocks87 · « **on:** May 17, 2005, 10:02:22 am »

Okay, I have a WG 27in and my brother and I kind of soldered a vga cable to it (i know i know not the brightest idea). And i was wondering if it is possible to desolder the input plug to the monitor and replace it with a new one.. Where would i get a new plug?

-Kyle

mamerocks87 · « **Reply #1 on:** May 29, 2005, 06:08:44 pm »

This has been on here a while, but still no replies. is this a hard thing to do?

-kw

dabone · « **Reply #2 on:** May 29, 2005, 06:22:34 pm »

Photos of the hack job please.

Later,
dabone

Ken Layton · « **Reply #3 on:** May 30, 2005, 06:53:27 pm »

It would help to know the specific model number. Wells-Gardner (as does every monitor manufacturer) makes dozens of different models with different features & options.

mamerocks87 · « **Reply #4 on:** June 14, 2005, 06:13:18 pm »

Here are the pics, sorry they took so long to get, i just now got the time to take the monitor out of my cab and take pictures. Please dont make fun of me on my hack job,

-Kyle

ps: is that what you need to tell what model the monitor is?

pcb · « **Reply #5 on:** June 14, 2005, 07:17:51 pm »

Looks like a 10 pin .156 standard header. You can get them at www.mouser.com. You will need to cut pin 7 down or pull it.

http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=displayproduct&lstdispproductid=294275

Then you'll want a connector and pins:

http://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=KK6PIP

mamerocks87 · « **Reply #6 on:** June 14, 2005, 07:31:12 pm »

Also I have a distortion problem and a blurriness problem. The top corners are bent inward, and after about 5 min after the monitor is on the picture gets blurry. Are these cap problems? Which caps do you change when doing a cap kit replacement (all of them?). please respond and thanks,

-Kyle

mamerocks87 · « **Reply #7 on:** June 14, 2005, 08:14:45 pm »

My monitor model is K7401

-kyle

mamerocks87 · « **Reply #8 on:** June 14, 2005, 09:48:27 pm »

Sorry to keep replying to my own post, but do you think maybe my hack job is the reason for the blurryness after 5 min or my bent picture problem? Heres a picture of my pincushion problem,

-kyle

pcb · « **Reply #9 on:** June 14, 2005, 11:46:52 pm »

I dunno, but the hack sure doesn't help. Fix it and see if you can adjust the picture.

Always do the entire capkit for a monitor if installing one.

mamerocks87 · « **Reply #10 on:** June 15, 2005, 12:16:15 am »

Ok let me see if i have this straight. The things you listed from Mouser.com is the connector for the board (do the pins sticking out of the board come with the connector)? And the stuff you listed from Mikes Arcade is the plug in which i will be pluggin into my newly designed input on the board. You said that i would need the "connector and pins", i know what the connector is but what are the pins, and what are they used for (are they the pins sticking out of the board?). Please exuse my ingorance, im really not this dumb about everything.

-Kyle

pcb · « **Reply #11 on:** June 15, 2005, 02:37:15 am »

The part at mouser is the header on the board, if you can't clean that one up enough to use the connector on it.

It looks broken to me.

The part from my website is a plastic housing and 6 crimp pins you crimp on to your harness wires. The pins are then inserted into the housing. It then fits on the cleaned or newly replaced header on your monitor.

If you don't have crimpers, or can't get a set from Radio Shack or don't know which ones to get. I can crimp the pins and install them in the housing, but you'll have to send your existing cable with a note saying which wire goes to which pin. I'd probably only charge $10 for the shipping, parts and my time.

Best,

- Mike -

mamerocks87 · « **Reply #12 on:** June 15, 2005, 11:55:50 am »

Does the connector on the board just pull up and slide out of the pins that are soldered? We choped up the connector on the board to enable us to solder directly onto the pins.

-kyle

mamerocks87 · « **Reply #13 on:** June 15, 2005, 11:58:49 am »

Also, if the stuff that you listed from mouser, is just the pins for the board, then I will need the connector on the board that slides over. do you sale those onyour site?

pcb · « **Reply #14 on:** June 15, 2005, 12:57:52 pm »

You need to desolder the header from the back. Then solder in a new one. This involves removeing the chassis from the monitor. So trake all precautions like discharging the monitor before removing it.. Did you look at the part on Mouser? It replaces the plastic and header you cut on the monitor.

The part on my site is the connector for the end of your cable that mates with the header.

mamerocks87 · « **Reply #15 on:** June 15, 2005, 01:52:29 pm »

Ok, im following you now. I will order those parts today from mouser.com and your site. I already have the boards off, and ill be ready to start when i get the parts. One more thing, i was looking at where the header is soldered on the back of the main board, and noticed that there were 2 resistors. What are these for and do i need to get new ones to put in when i replace the header? Here is a picture so you guys can understand what I am saying.

-Kyle

mamerocks87 · « **Reply #16 on:** June 15, 2005, 05:17:16 pm »

Okay, now I have got my grungy little breakout vga cable off of the board input. I ordered those parts that Mike told me to get, and now all that is left to do is wait i suppose.

mamerocks87 · « **Reply #17 on:** June 18, 2005, 01:43:10 am »

I got my header from mouser.com today, so I desoldered my old one and put the new in. Hopefully I did an okay job soldering the new one in, (im not good at soldering).

pcb · « **Reply #18 on:** June 19, 2005, 02:29:35 pm »

I've been away for a few days, so was unable to reply. You DO need to put the resisitors back now that you have the new header installed. Looks to me like they were put on at the factory.

mamerocks87 · « **Reply #19 on:** June 19, 2005, 10:51:10 pm »

I just soldered the resistors back in the right place when i installed the new plug. The hardest part was getting the old header out....Now im just waiting for my connector and i will be in buisness. I appreciate everyone's help and especially "pcb's" cause i couldnt have ever found the parts on my own.... Thanks, and i will post later, after i get the connector for my vga cable, to tell everyone if it has fixed anything on the list of problems on my monitor. If it doesn't help i really dont care, i wont have to deal with those soldered vga wires when im putting in a cap kit.... Thanks again,

-Kyle

mamerocks87 · « **Reply #20 on:** June 20, 2005, 08:47:31 pm »

Okay, I recieved my connector from mikes arcade, and I need to know what and how i need to crimp these pins with. I dont have a crimp set, and was wondering what else i could use.

-kyle

pcb · « **Reply #21 on:** June 20, 2005, 10:21:42 pm »

These will work in a pinch for $10.49

http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=276-1595

If you need to know 'how' to crimp them on.

mamerocks87 · « **Reply #22 on:** June 20, 2005, 11:55:00 pm »

My dad helped me out (im 18 just for anyone wondering), and he had something to crimp it w/. I just connected everything back , and turned on my monitor. The color is better, and the blurryness is much better. However i still need to fix the pincushion problem. I saw a post on this message board that said he had a pincushion problem, and he only changed the caps around the pincushion area of the board, and he got it working. I really dont want to change all the caps due to the fact that it doesnt really need it. The colors are vibrant, and accurate... and it had new cap kit Nov of 2004. Is the pincushion area in the same spot as the pincushion adjustment baord on the main board? Is it ok, just to change the ones in that area, or should i change them all?

-Kyle

pcb · « **Reply #23 on:** June 21, 2005, 01:08:19 am »

Glad you got everything connected back up.

Now, on to your pin-cusion problem. According the Randy Fromm's flowchart for the K7401, you need to install a capkit!
Here's a link to the trouble shooting flowchart, print it out.

http://slot-tech-ftp.serveftp.com:8080/technical_department/monitors/flowcharts/k7401flo.jpg

mamerocks87 · « **Reply #24 on:** June 21, 2005, 01:48:22 am »

I am going to order the cap kit from Wells tommorow... Also, I got to looking and the bottom of my main board is not labled. How am i suppose to tell whats what, theres nothing but soldering...?? Is there a trick to this? I will post pics of my monitor when i get the cap kit in.

-Kyle

ps: thanks pcb for the cool flow chart link

pcb · « **Reply #25 on:** June 21, 2005, 02:36:07 am »

Look closely on the top of the board, everything is labeled there. Lemme see if there is a cap map for you monitor around somewhere. Nope, none to be found!

Oh, I just read this on another page which applies to K7000 monitors, and might apply to your K7400....

Got the Bends?? (Not sure what the means, but sounds like what you are seeing)

Do Not Hook Up Your Composite Sync to both H & V On this Chassis. USE H ONLY! Leave V Empty.....

So, at least for the K7000, pin 5 is a N/C and Composite Sync goes to pin 6 only.

Maybe give that a shot and see if it clears up the picture.

If you do call Wells, order a manual for the monitor too. It will have pinouts, schematics and a component layout diagram that shows where all the caps go.


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