NEXT UP: Lawn mower (help!)

[screaming]

  Okay, so I'm starting to get funny looks from the neighbors, and the kids are starting to play hide-and-go-seek in my front lawn.

  I think I need to mow.  The problem is I don't have a working lawn mower.  I have 2 lawn mowers (push-bihind-style) that are supposed to to work but they don't.  I think the reason is they just need to be cleaned and have their oil changed since I'm sure that hasn't been done in quite a while.

  The better lawn mower (the one that actually starts...then stalls after 12 seconds) is a Snapper HI-VAC 190cc.  There's no obvious way to get in and drain the oil.. Am I just supposed to tip the thing over and dump it out through the spout at the top?  And then once I do that, which kind of oil do I put back in there?

  Is there anything else that I should try before taking it into the shop to get it fixed by a "professional"?

  If someone could just lead me in the right direction, I'm sure I'll be fine..

Thanks guys!

-sab

[missioncontrol]

there should be a drain plug on the side of the mower....

it's usually in an awkward place and you'll need to find something to funnel the oil from the drain plug to where your putting the old oil....

[rampy]

did you use fuel stabil or remove the gas from the tank before storing it over the winter?  The most common reason lawn care stuff doesn't start is stale gas or hard deposits/clogging from leaving gas in the mower over the winter.

fresh gas is a must!

*shrug*

A new properly gapped spark plug probably wouldn't hurt.

Is it still in the choke position when it's stalling?

rampy

[Crazy Cooter]

RTFM!

There should be a drain plug like MC said.

[screaming]

did you use fuel stabil or remove the gas from the tank before storing it over the winter? The most common reason lawn care stuff doesn't start is stale gas or hard deposits/clogging from leaving gas in the mower over the winter.

  Probably not.   It was just given to me and according to the guy it worked when upgraded to a better one a few years ago... Which means this one has been sitting around for a few years, probably untouched.  Once I give it a tune up it should be good-to-go though?

fresh gas is a must!

  Check!  It was empty, so filling it was easy   The oil is full, I just don't know how to empty it, and I don't know which type of oil to put back in there!  5W30? Like for my car?

A new properly gapped spark plug probably wouldn't hurt.

  It wouldn't start if this was the biggest problem though, right?

Is it still in the choke position when it's stalling?

  Yes, I have the choke open (in the "rabbit position") when I start it.  When it starts, it goesa a little slow for a bit, then gradually starts speeding up.  Once it goes so fast, and before I can close up the choke at all the lawn mower will stall.

  The air filter is that silver box on the side, right?  Someone told me that you can just vacuum it out?  I took it off to see what was inside and there was a bunch of gunk around the rim.  I cleaned that off and put it back on but it didn't help any (as expected).

-sab

[screaming]

RTFM!

  I don't have TM It was a freebie lawn mower.

There should be a drain plug like MC said.

  I looked all around and I didn't see an obvious plug. There were a couple big-ish screws though.  There's nothing underneath (where I would expect it to be).

  I'd replace the spark plug and clean the filter.  If it still won't run, it's probably carb related.  Have you checked the spark?  Pull the wire off the plug and hold it close to the block.  Have someone else pull the cord.  You might get juiced a little.

  I'm still working on the assumption that it wouldn't run if the spark plug was the problem.  But I'll replace the plug anyway for good measure.  Where can I get one?  At any auto parts store, or do I need to go to a small engine specialty shop?  Home Depot maybe?

(I had an old snowmobile that was open between the rider and the engine (Rupp 440 Nitro).  I was hauling down the trail and it started running funny.  I could see the plug wire was loose and kind of bouncing off.  So I reached down to push it on all the way... zap zap zap zap zap zap zap...)

  DOH. Yeah, thanks for the tip

-sab

[missioncontrol]

you can get a spark plug just about anywhere.......

HD
auto parts store
sometimes you can even find them at a convinient store

the oil drain plug won't be under the mower. it's usually on the side towards the bottom.

any small engine oil would be fine. I've seen people use automotive oil.

[screaming]

you can get a spark plug just about anywhere.......

HD
auto parts store
sometimes you can even find them at a convinient store

the oil drain plug won't be under the mower. it's usually on the side towards the bottom.

any small engine oil would be fine. I've seen people use automotive oil.

Great!  That answers just about all my questions.. I'll take a look for that oil plug tonight when I get home.

  Thanks for the help guys!

-sab

[xar256]

FYI...There may not be a drain plug...I have one that requires being turned upside down according to the manual...
You should be able to find lawn mower engine oil in most automotive sections at most hardware stores <Canadian Tire for me>

Xar256

[DrewKaree]

If it ain't your spark plug needing replacing, your carb is probably all effed up, which sounds like you'd need to take it to a repairman to repair/rebuild your carb.  While it's there, make sure they sharpen your blade.  Sounds as if that will be needed too.

[Tailgunner]

Do you have a source of compressed air? Most of the time "rebuilding" the carb consists of:

1) taking it off.

2) taking the fuel bowl off.

3) spraying carb cleaner through all the jets.

4) blowing it out with compressed air.

5) reinstalling the fuel bowl.

6) reinstalling the carb.

If you have a compressor and a tool box, all you're lacking is a can of carb cleaner, and possibly a new gasket if the existing one tears when you remove the carb. Might take an hour the first time you do it.

The repair shop will charge you about $65 to do this, you can do it for less than $10.

[Crazy Cooter]

It sounds like it could be a stuck float.  That would cause it to run fast and then flood itself out.  Once it fires, do you have to wait ~15 minutes before it will fire again?

Follow the throttle cable to the carb and see if you can figure out where the "bowl" is.  There is a "needle" that governs how much fuel is allowed into the carb.  If junk gets in there, it holds that needle up and cause excess fuel to pour in.  Then you have to wait for some to evaporate before it will fire again (just to flood out again).  If this is what it is doing, see if you can "tap" the bowl and jar the junk loose.  DON'T hit it hard though, just as hard as Floyd would .  If you need to remove the carb, follows tailgunners directions/precautions.

[Stingray]

Do you have a source of compressed air? Most of the time "rebuilding" the carb consists of:

1) taking it off.

2) taking the fuel bowl off.

3) spraying carb cleaner through all the jets.

4) blowing it out with compressed air.

5) reinstalling the fuel bowl.

6) reinstalling the carb.

If you have a compressor and a tool box, all you're lacking is a can of carb cleaner, and possibly a new gasket if the existing one tears when you remove the carb. Might take an hour the first time you do it.

The repair shop will charge you about $65 to do this, you can do it for less than $10.

Yeah, I'd give this a go first before taking it in to be repaired.

-S

[danny_galaga]

no time to read all the answers, but if its a briggs & stratton engine (and probably some others too) you are suppoed to tip it over and drain it through the oil filler. the drain plug will usually be underneath and im pretty sure last time i drained it that way you had to take the blade disk thingo off. it does drain really well that way though...

[screaming]

Alright, well, I took the whole thing apart.  I still couldn't find the drain plug, so I ended up just tipping the thing over and dumping out the oil through the spout.

  I replaced the oil, replaced the spark plug, filled it up with gas (again) and put it all back together......... and it wouldn't start. (doh!)

  So I just ended up going out and getting a new one, the cheapest one I could find.  Thanks everyone for your help, but I think small engine repair just isn't my forte

  If anyone needs a lawn mower, you can come pick it up for free It' probably works if you can figure out what I did wrong!

  Thanks again!

-sab

[DrewKaree]

And to think I was one of those people who never realized lawnmowers were "throwaway" items

I'd pick that thing up if I were anywhere near you, but no such luck.

Make sure if you require a gas/oil mix on that new lawnmower that you get the ratio right, otherwise you'll be buying a new one in a few months when that one won't start

[screaming]

Yeah, at least I have the directions for this one...

Oh, and I woundn't be giving it away if I didn't already have 500 other projects to worry about.. Oh well.

-sab

[Tailgunner]

Well then be sure you run it dry once fall gets here and you put it up for the year. Drain all the gas you can, tie that stupid handle thingy so the mower will run without you holding it, crank the mower and run it completely out of gas. Done this way it should crank right back up next year.

Personally I'd keep the old one as well, at least the motor. Small engines are useful for all kinds of fun and interesting projects.

If you look on the motor's sheet metal you'll find a model number, serial number, and code. Right these down, then point your browser to:  http://www.briggsandstratton.com/

You can download a owner's manual and parts list in PDF format from them, you can order parts, specialty tools, repair manuals, and pretty much anything else you might need to work on their motors.

[SS427]

pm sent

[chasmosis]

the oil drain plug won't be under the mower. it's usually on the side towards the bottom.

Not always true

I've got a Scott's brand (build by Deere and Company) with a Tecumseh 6.5 horse walk behind mower thats drain plug is on the bottom of the motor right next to the driveshaft for the blade.

[screaming]

I took the whole engine off and didn't see anything that might be a drain plug, but I don't really know what I'm looking for.  I'll take a look again tonight to find out the brand of the motor, and maybe I can find some docs on it.

  Now that the lawn is mowed, I can take my time

-sab

[Tailgunner]

The numbers are visible in your first pic, they're stamped into the sheet metal above the spark plug.

[danny_galaga]

I took the whole engine off and didn't see anything that might be a drain plug, but I don't really know what I'm looking for.

[Crazy Cooter]

Personally I'd keep the old one as well, at least the motor. Small engines are useful for all kinds of fun and interesting projects. 

Bar stool racer (shaft orientation glitch), hovercraft, welder, chipper, pump, the list is endless.

I think I'd hook it up to an old alternator though and try some stick welding first.  I have to drive all the way to the parents house to weld anything.

[rampy]

Personally I'd keep the old one as well, at least the motor. Small engines are useful for all kinds of fun and interesting projects. 

Bar stool racer (shaft orientation glitch), hovercraft, welder, chipper, pump, the list is endless.

I think I'd hook it up to an old alternator though and try some stick welding first.  I have to drive all the way to the parents house to weld anything.

A DIY generator, that's pretty clever.... I've been thinking about making a DIY uber UPS myself lately...

rampy