Author Topic: Twilight Zone! (Read 31550 times)

Chris · « **Reply #40 on:** April 28, 2005, 02:23:45 pm »

Mmmm... Funhouse...

I'd be happy just to have a TZ backglass in a frame...

ChadTower · « **Reply #41 on:** April 28, 2005, 03:05:43 pm »

Grr. I'm trying to move it now... they can't find the key to the backbox. Luckily, the lock plate is on the outside so the screws are exposed. They're security Torx... and of course, my bits are at home. I may run to Home Depot in a few to see if they have them.

GGKoul · « **Reply #42 on:** April 28, 2005, 03:23:13 pm »

Quote from: ChadTower on April 28, 2005, 03:05:43 pm

Grr.

Stingray · « **Reply #43 on:** April 28, 2005, 03:29:08 pm »

Quote from: ChadTower on April 28, 2005, 03:05:43 pm

I may run to Home Depot in a few to see if they have them.

They do, at least the one near me does.

-S

ChadTower · « **Reply #44 on:** April 28, 2005, 03:43:47 pm »

Nope, I had three employees trying to find them, they did not have them, or at least all the King's horses couldn't find them.

I tried the Bic pen trick, they're too rigidly in there.

GGKoul · « **Reply #45 on:** April 28, 2005, 03:48:25 pm »

Ya, for some reason Home Depot dont sell security Torex bits. Had to go to a speciality place to get my set.

Stingray · « **Reply #46 on:** April 28, 2005, 03:51:03 pm »

Oh, I missed the "security" part of that. I bought a set of regular torx at home depot. Not sure where to get security torx bits, unless you know someone who drives a Snap-on or Mac tool truck.

-S

ChadTower · « **Reply #47 on:** April 28, 2005, 03:53:14 pm »

I have some, but they're at home (45 mins away). I do a lot of work on game consoles and many consoles/cartridges use them.

Shape D. · « **Reply #48 on:** April 28, 2005, 03:53:32 pm »

Quote from: Stingray on April 28, 2005, 03:51:03 pm

Oh, I missed the "security" part of that. I bought a set of regular torx at home depot. Not sure where to get security torx bits, unless you know someone who drives a Snap-on or Mac tool truck.

-S

we sell them at my wotk but I don't think that will do you any good. were in wisconsin.

ChadTower · « **Reply #49 on:** April 29, 2005, 01:34:13 pm »

Ugh. Excuse me while I throw up a bit.

I'm at work, I have the backboard down, I have it all wrapped up... it's on sawhorses... I can't find anyone willing to hold one end in place while I lower the other end off the sawhorse.

I had to try it myself. I've done it with smaller machines easily.

It didn't work this time. The other sawhorse came out and the player end of the machine slammed down. There is structural damage to the right player corner. It is repairable, but now I'm terrified of what damage may have been done inside.

I couldn't find anyone willing to help. Sigh.

ChadTower · « **Reply #50 on:** April 29, 2005, 02:07:10 pm »

Okay, it's in my car. Took a hard look at that corner. It's not structurally unsound, but it is far weaker than it was. The wood didn't break but the layers of the MDF are somewhat separated. What is the best way to fix that? I assume there is a way... maybe a simple glue and clamp?

Stingray · « **Reply #51 on:** April 29, 2005, 02:22:49 pm »

The glue & clamp idea sounds worth trying. Sorry to hear that you dropped it.

-S

nostrebor · « **Reply #52 on:** April 29, 2005, 03:59:42 pm »

Chad,

Is it really MDF? Could you post a pic?

If you have the clamps, it might be repairable with CA glue (super glue) Definitely do some research first, as you only get one shot at this kind of repair.

ChadTower · « **Reply #53 on:** April 29, 2005, 04:06:47 pm »

I can post a pic when I get home, but whatever the wood is, it's definitely manufactured and layered. The only two things I know of like that are plywood and MDF... it's not BROKEN, a couple layers separated.

ChadTower · « **Reply #54 on:** May 01, 2005, 03:40:55 pm »

Okay, the TZ is in my basement... it is currently up on sawhorses until I fix the corner issue. I'll shoot out some pics for suggestions in a bit, but I suspect that what I need to do is remove the leg bracket and the corner butt, reglue the MDF layers, add a new corner butt, and then put the leg bracket back in. There is no aesthetic damage from this.

Let me know if there is a flaw in my repair plan...

I ran some diagnostics... the error messages are all the same. The clock tests properly, the gumball machine is hard to tell since it thinks the balls are MIA but it did try to dispense... I only saw one lamp that looked out.

And yes, I will have pics for you folks soon. If there is anything specific you want to see, let me know.

nostrebor · « **Reply #55 on:** May 01, 2005, 10:22:00 pm »

Here's to hoping it is plywood! Much easier to fix.

It sounds like the corner is the only damage from the fall? Hope so.

ChadTower · « **Reply #56 on:** May 01, 2005, 10:48:45 pm »

Oddly enough, after the fall, two of the self test errors are now gone. I haven't opened it up yet, first is the corner repair which should take a day or two of mostly glue drying.

Wade · « **Reply #57 on:** May 02, 2005, 11:39:30 am »

Quote from: ChadTower on April 26, 2005, 12:34:52 pm

Awesome!

ChadTower · « **Reply #58 on:** May 02, 2005, 11:43:59 am »

Yep, though $2000 would be a clearance sell it NOW price.

I'm looking for some pipe clamps right now to fix that corner... I should be able to repair it so you could never tell it was damaged.

I'm tempted to fix the Shadow and try and trade it for a Guns N Roses, actually... sell OTHER stuff to keep the pins.

The way I see it is this: I keep the TZ, get it nice and working and well taken care of, and it's worth $2500-$2800. That's two mortgage payments if I ever need it.

Flinkly · « **Reply #59 on:** May 02, 2005, 08:41:40 pm »

PICTURES!!!

ChadTower · « **Reply #60 on:** May 02, 2005, 09:25:09 pm »

Sorry, been extremely busy the last day or two, I coach 5-6 year old baseball and we've had some games, etc.

ChadTower · « **Reply #61 on:** May 03, 2005, 10:09:56 am »

I have some photos, but no photoshop to make them appropriate for the web... trying to locate a copy now.

Buddabing · « **Reply #62 on:** May 03, 2005, 10:36:28 am »

Quote from: ChadTower on May 03, 2005, 10:09:56 am

I have some photos, but no photoshop to make them appropriate for the web... trying to locate a copy now.

GIMP

ChadTower · « **Reply #63 on:** May 03, 2005, 02:20:41 pm »

Flinkly · « **Reply #64 on:** May 03, 2005, 07:09:51 pm »

awesome...

now i have one more name to add to my "I officially hate you" list.

ChadTower · « **Reply #65 on:** May 03, 2005, 07:15:23 pm »

Okay, picked up some corner clamps. The problem is that they won't really clamp on, there is too much stuff in the way that isn't meant to be removed at the top, and not enough lip to grab onto on the bottom. I will have to bring them back and locate a set of pipe clamps. I've had no luck finding pipe clamps locally so far.

nostrebor · « **Reply #66 on:** May 04, 2005, 08:26:04 am »

The corner damage doesn't look too bad. The good news is that it is plywood.

If it were mine to fix I would approach it this way:

1. Go to the local drug store and pick up a few large needle diameter syringes. As bad as that damage is, you'll need to inject glue way up in between the layers. I personally would use white Elmer's glue as it has longer open time and very similar hold characteristics as wood glue.

2. I would cut a 12" wide piece of MDF or plywood that would fit tightly in the bottom against the bottom board. This board would support the edges that hang down, helping to compress them under clamping pressure. I would wrap the edges of my board in packing tape, so I didn't glue it to the machine.

3. Looks like a set of bar clamps or pipe clamps will be the best. Use a block of wood to distribute the pressure over the damage - this will give the flattest finish repair. The block needs to be flat and true and i would cover the face with that packing tape again (wax paper also works, and might be better for preventing tape residue from getting on the sideart)

4. I would clamp across the front and across the bottom, trying to get even pressure across the block. F-type bar clamps would be best - they have a little more "leg" length so you can reach further away from the edge.

5. I would do a couple dry runs. Make sure that the pressure goes where you need it, the plywood closes nicely, etc.

6. Inject between the layers with glue (syringe

) and clamp, keeping the glue off the art with a damp rag.

7. Wait 24hrs and remove clamps. Play a game

Oh... BTW, nice TZ!

Dave.

SirPeale · « **Reply #67 on:** May 04, 2005, 08:41:46 am »

Wow...you really have cleaned up that basement, haven't you? I see actual walking room. More room for more games!

You'll have even more room once you relinquish that Tank II.

ChadTower · « **Reply #68 on:** May 04, 2005, 09:04:49 am »

Quote from: Peale on May 04, 2005, 08:41:46 am

Wow...you really have cleaned up that basement, haven't you? I see actual walking room. More room for more games!

You'll have even more room once you relinquish that Tank II.

Nostrebor, thanks for the advice. Good call on the syringe, I was going to use a popsicle stick. Could you elaborate some on the 12" piece of wood? 12" square, inside the cabinet? 12" x 1", underneath and in the corner? There is something there I'm missing.

Peale, yeah, it's a BIT cleaned out... mostly, that room you see is the result of taking all the stuff and stacking it in a corner you can't see so that I had working room for the TZ. The other side of the basement is pretty much the same as it was before, though I am working to clear that of as much as I can. Certainly a lot of misc stuff will go, some arcade parts, and very likely a cab.

nostrebor · « **Reply #69 on:** May 04, 2005, 09:32:11 am »

Sorry. I have a hard time getting the picture out of my head and onto paper.

The idea is to support the edge of the split board that hangs down below the bottom of the bottom of the cabinet. In my thinking you will have to clamp all the way across the cabinet width. The board I'm thinking is a 3/4" plywood piece, 12"x the width of the inside face of the two sides of the cabinet. It sticks underneath the cabinet, between the sides, flat against the bottom. This gives something to push against when you clamp, and squeezes the separated plywood back together.

I can draw a picture tonight and post it tomorrow if you like. I am much better at pictures than words

Dave.

ChadTower · « **Reply #70 on:** May 04, 2005, 09:57:39 am »

Quote from: nostrebor on May 04, 2005, 09:32:11 am

Sorry. I have a hard time getting the picture out of my head and onto paper.

The idea is to support the edge of the split board that hangs down below the bottom of the bottom of the cabinet. In my thinking you will have to clamp all the way across the cabinet width. The board I'm thinking is a 3/4" plywood piece, 12"x the width of the inside face of the two sides of the cabinet. It sticks underneath the cabinet, between the sides, flat against the bottom. This gives something to push against when you clamp, and squeezes the separated plywood back together.

So what you're saying is, add a strip of wood that creates a NEW lip on the inside against which I can clamp, right? Would that have to be 12"? I think I get what you're saying, and it makes some sense, but is 12" necessary?

Damn, I'm a carpentry newbie too. This arcade stuff requires so much knowledge about so many things. I had no idea when I got into it I'd end up an amateur electrical engineer, TV repairman, and carpenter.

nostrebor · « **Reply #71 on:** May 04, 2005, 10:12:22 am »

Nope.

Pic will follow... soon I promise.

nostrebor · « **Reply #72 on:** May 04, 2005, 10:45:42 am »

If you save the pic it's bigger and easier to read. The idea behind the board on the bottom is just to support the plywood hanging below the bottom so you can clamp without "bending" the sides in. once the glue is dry, the board comes out and goes away. It simply transfers the clamping pressure through the side, so the plywood is squeezed back shut, rather than just bent in.

Just experiment with clamps/blocks/etc. until you find the right combination to get the plywood to close back up, then do the working combination with glue added to fix it.

Dave.

ChadTower · « **Reply #73 on:** May 04, 2005, 11:23:55 am »

I see what you are saying... I don't think bending the sides in is an issue, the bottom of the cabinet is solid and secure... the reason the lip down below is hard to grab onto is that it's only like a half inch to begin with, and with some minor chipping over the years it's not square enough to grab in that minor a space... I think if I repair the plywood itself by using the pipe clamp underneath (across the width of the machine), that shoud definitely do the job. The syringe is a great call, but I don't see the steps you describe as necessary. Now, I do have another cabinet that I have plans to do exactly that for...

nostrebor · « **Reply #74 on:** May 04, 2005, 12:27:46 pm »

OK...

At least I finally got my point across. I very much stink at written descriptions

ChadTower · « **Reply #75 on:** May 04, 2005, 04:44:01 pm »

That's okay, much appreciated. I don't seem to be able to get any real syringes (MA sucks, everything is against the law). I did get some children's medicine droppers. They are the same thing, much cheaper made, with a shorter nose. It should be good enough, inject the glue and then spread it around with a screwdriver or popsicle stick.

I also picked up a pair of 3/4" pipe clamps ($15 ea), a pair of galvanized steel pipes (72" $10, 48" $8). I should be all set to get this done, but can't do it tonight.

If folks want I can try to get some pics of the process and maybe write it up.

Flinkly · « **Reply #76 on:** May 04, 2005, 06:17:32 pm »

well, if you feel it's a lost cause, i'll take that poor TZ off your hands...for free.

but seriously, lets get this thing back in action and lookin good.

nostrebor · « **Reply #77 on:** May 04, 2005, 06:54:51 pm »

Weird?? You cannot buy syringes over the counter? I often get some seriously weird looks, especially after I say "I want the biggest thickest needles you've got!".

Maybe the girl behind the counter is just too scared to tell me no

Once I explain what I am using them for, they usually relax. I have repaired a lot of furniture using hypos. It works fantastic, especially for injecting glue under veneer.

ChadTower · « **Reply #78 on:** May 04, 2005, 10:01:22 pm »

I bet it does, I believe you. Here in MA the state is run by wackos. I'm surprised it's not illegal yet to walk up to the counter at all.

GGKoul · « **Reply #79 on:** May 05, 2005, 09:50:35 am »

So when can we see some pics of the pins?


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