Ken Layton Help ! (It was a BAD monitor)

[BUCKETHEAD]

I was told to seek help from you on my problem.

You can read to whole thread here for the whole story.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,34274.0.html


I will try and make this short,

I picked up 2 cabs a week ago.

A Jamma Combatribe cab. (EVERYTHING WORKS!)

A Hogan's Alley Cab that originally was GALAXIAN

Everything works Except the MONITOR.

No picture.


A member of the board PaigeOliver suggested that i wire the HOGAN's ALLEY

into the COMBATRIBE'S moinitor. When i did that,

[Ken Layton]

The Galaxian/Hogan cabinet originally had a Wells-Gardner 4600 or Electrohome G07CAO  in it so at one time (probably when it got converted to Hogans) the monitor was replaced with a newer one.

Check all the fuseholders in the bottom of the cabinet for corrosion/tarnished contacts and that they grip the fuses tightly. Find which one of those fuseholders is labeled 115VAC MONITOR and replace the fuse in it anyway (probably will be a 2 amp slo-blo). Sometimes these fuses test ok with a meter, but don't hold a load. Follow the wires to the monitor and look closely at the power connector for any pins that might be poked back and not making contact. If that all looks good then find yourself a cheap clamp (trouble type) lamp or table lamp with a 60 watt light bulb in it. Grab a couple of short hanks of 16 gauge wire, strip each end. What you want to do is attempt to get the 60 watt light bulb to light up by sticking the wires in the game cabinets monitor power connector. This should be done very carefully so you don't zap yourself. Have some electrical tape handy to insulate things. I connect it all up while the cabinet is unplugged for safety.

Basically what this is accomplishing is to verify that 115 volts ac is making it to the monitors power connector and that the fuses are holding the load. If this is happening properly then there's a problem with the monitor in that cabinet. Some people have shoved either a cheap neon test light or a multimeter test leads in there to check, but that won't verify the load being held.

I have a feeling you have a monitor problem though. That is not a SAMSUNG monitor. That's just the maker of the picture tube. Post a picture of the monitor. I'll bet it's probably a Kortek/Imperial/Sharp Image monitor and it probably needs a capkit or has an open resistor in it's power supply.

[Ken Layton]

Now that I've seen the pictures of the cabinet, the Hogan's definitely has been replaced with a newer monitor and it's a Betson-Imperial (a.k.a. Imperial International) made by Kortek.

[BUCKETHEAD]

I could not find the switch that might power on the monitor.

Here are some more pics of the inside of the cab.

It is of all the switches i have found.

I have tried all of them and none of them affects the monitor.

Plus other pics inside the cab.

Maybe you will see something i can't or don't.

I will also try your test as soon as i can.

And replace the fuses.


Thanks so much!

[BUCKETHEAD]

I have found out that this switch cuts the power on and off to the Monitor.

I checked  the volts on it when i pushed it in and out.

Pushed in  ---  Monitor cord gets power.

Not pushed in ---------  No Power

It looks kinda ratty looking.

Wonder if this could be a problem?

And can you find a similar replacement for it?

If it is bad?

[MonitorGuru]

Looks like your cabinet has THREE switches.

The one on the top is the normal "nightly" power off switch.

The one on the board with the fuses is the master on/off switch.

The white one that the back door leans against is the safety interlock switch.  The intent of it is to instanly kill power as soon as the cabinet door is removed for safety.

That's why it powers up when you push it in, as if a back door is on.

It has another position that can keep it "on" even with the back door off... Simply PULL the switch out towards you and it will lock into ON position.

It is likely two if not 3 of these switches are wired in series, meaning they ALL have to be on in order for your cabinet to be on, not just any single one of them.

The switch looks in very good condition and is not needing to be replaced.. you just need to understand why it's there and the intent of it's use--for safety.

[BUCKETHEAD]

Today i hooked up the HOGAN cab's monitor power supply cord,

To my COMBATRIBE's monitor.  (which was still in the COMBATRIBE cab)

Made sure all 3 switches were turned on the HOGAN cab as suggested by

MonitorGuru.

And BAM !!! HOGAN'S ALLEY showed up on the COMBATRIBE monitor.

Then confirming that the HOGAN"S ALLEY monitor in the cab is BAD!

I just want to thank KEN LAYTON and MONITORGURU for all the help.

I really appreciate it! 

[MonitorGuru]

Interesting that the one switch attached to the side of the cabinet shows a set of wires labeled "AC 100 volt".

This, to me, implies that at one time or another something requiring 100 volts instead of 110-120 was in the cabinet.

What requires that you ask? Well, simply, Nintendo power boards and Nintendo Monitors.  Since Nintendo simply made their Japanese parts work in the US, they had to step down the power to 100 volts from 110-120 otherwise it would burn them out.

Is it possible that the monitor that was in the nintendo required 100 volts instead of 110-120 and at some point (either before you or by you) was powered incorrectly at 110-120 and fried it?

I thought however only some Sharp and Sanyo monitors were the lower voltage variety and not Samsung... Ken knows more on that than me.  Just something that popped into my head seeing that 100VAC tag.

[Ken Layton]

That 100 VAC output would have gone to the original "Popeye" Nintendo gold cased power supply.