Cap Kit - questions on soldering and PCB.

[Wyluli]

I have an old PCB that I am practicing my soldering skills on before I attempt a cap kit on my machine.
I have a few questions:

1. How sensitive is the PCB?  Can I touch any part of it or is it really ESD sensitive?

2. I discovered that the solder sucker is really hard to use because there is such a tiny amount of solder on the board.  Will try a desoldering braid instead.  question is, I managed to get some capacitors off the board by gently pulling with pliers while quickly applying the soldering iron.  They come right out.  But now the holes are plugged up with solder so I can't put the parts back in.  What is a good way to "unplug" these holes?

Will post anything else I can think of here.

For those looking for a soldering guide:
http://users.pandora.be/educypedia/electronics/soldering.htm

Scroll down to yellow highlighted "soldering" section.

[wakerlet]

In my experience

1.  You can touch any part of the pcb.  Just don't go breaking off any resistors or capacitors.  Use your  common sense when holding or laying it down.

2.  I use solder braid.  Works really well for the two cap kits I've done.  I know a lot of people use the sucker so I think it's personal preference.  If you can't get the sucker to work, try the braid

3.  Use the braid to remove the solder in the holes.

[MonitorGuru]

Wyluli --

Don't use the red bulb solder suckers from rat shack... they don't work well. I use the spring loaded (pen shaped) one from bob roberts. I like it a lot.

With old caps, I usually heat one end up and rock it one way, then heat the other and rock the other and then it's usually one more touch and I can pull it out. Remember to never push back into the board as you could raise the trace as the solder hardens

To remove the excess, use the sucker first before removing the component, then if any is left you can try sucking from the component side with the spring loaded one, or sometimes I've had to push a needle into the hole (from the bottom to not break the trace) while heating, then twist slowly as it dries and then pull out and it should be open enough to get a new lead through.

Generally there is no static sensitive IC's on the boards unless its a really new or advanced board.  Most of the other components can take small zapps on the old boards.  However, before handling the board, even after it's been removed from the chassis, be sure the capacitors are discharged...especially the largest physical capacitor on the board..in the power section for power stabilization.  That cap can hold a mighty zap that can hurt you touching it, and can make a nice loud zap if shorted.

This usually happend when you have started working on a board that is bad, like a blown fuse or HOT that gave no picture.  I had a G07 almost bite me, and instead zapped a plier I accidentially laid across the bottom of the circuit board... scared the heck out of me!

I've never used braids to remove solder.. dunno how they work.

[menace]

From the solder sucker camp--I find if there isn't enough on, I ADD some and then suck it all out --maybe not the most efficient way but generally works quite well.  if you ever de-solder IC's (in the future obviously) make sure you don't keep heat on them any longer than you have to--goes for most electronic parts.

[Wyluli]

Wyluli --

Don't use the red bulb solder suckers from rat shack... they don't work well. I use the spring loaded (pen shaped) one from bob roberts. I like it a lot.

I have the solder sucker from Bob :-)

To remove the excess, use the sucker first before removing the component, then if any is left you can try sucking from the component side with the spring loaded one, or sometimes I've had to push a needle into the hole (from the bottom to not break the trace) while heating, then twist slowly as it dries and then pull out and it should be open enough to get a new lead through.

I'll probably have to try the needle idea then, if the de-soldering braid does not work.

[MonitorGuru]

Well the picture tube is the largest capacitor (yes, it's a capacitor at it's most basic (but not primary) function).

The only other cap you should generally worry about is the AC power filter one (the largest one on the board---we're taking at least 1" across, usually 1.5" and 2.5" to 3.5" tall).

You 'can' discharge it by simply shorting it, but that is bad as you can wreck other components or the capacitor itself.

You can test to see if it has any voltage in it... set your meter at the voltage range it could hold per it's markings (should be a 250 volt cap I think usually) and see if there is any power in it. If there is, then find a suitable resistor and use that to discharge it slowly (set it across the terminals)

From the SCI.ELECTRONICS FAQ on monitor/tv repair:
http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_monfaq3.html#MONFAQ_003

Here's more info:
http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/captest.htm#ctdtk

[RayB]

To suck solder out of the holes... use the solder sucker! (duh)
You have to learn how to properly use the sucker. It's kind of like a vacuum. There won't be much suction unless you try and close off the opening completely. What I do is heat up the solder, then very quickly move the sucker right onto the hole, such that there's no gaps, then hit the sucker's release (all done REAL quick).