Author Topic: Finished concept - ready to build! (almost... images inside!) (Read 6473 times)

elfman12 · « **on:** October 12, 2002, 01:28:11 am »

Ok, my (nearly) finished concept is ready to go... Just wanted to get some opinions on it. My goals for my first cab here are a bit ambitious, but I hope to be able to pull it off. Here's the main goals:

Upright cab, new construction.
27" SVHS TV
size not major issue

(control panel)
MUST run games: Donkey Kong, Galaga, Gyruss, Gorf, Marble Madness, Battle Zone, Assault, Tron, Robotron, Zaxxon, 4-player games (Simpsons, Gauntlet)

I really love the action of tank games, so I had to work in the 2 trigger sticks, leaving space for the players arms to not bump anything while using them.

I also like the idea of wrapping the CP around the side of the cabinet a bit. For some reason, the large rectangular CPs look a bit out of place on some cabs, and wrapping them around the sides flowed better, from a design point of view. (now, to actually MAKE all of those curved cuts... hehe)

Any comments would be appreciated! Thanks, all!
Elfman12

SNAAAKE · « **Reply #1 on:** October 12, 2002, 03:41:26 am »

You sure you can pull it off man?

I am telling you

.....this thangs ain't as easy as it might sound.Atleast for my case.

Frostillicus · « **Reply #2 on:** October 12, 2002, 08:37:37 pm »

looks...interesting. some points I'd keep in mind:
make sure you have the right proportions for the hardware, like the TV looks pretty square to me - and are you leaving enough space between joysticks/buttons/etc? I first designed a cab in 3d studio earlier this year and just made sure the units were set in inches - here's what i came up with:
http://arcade.tomvanhorn.com/mamecab4.jpg
all the important stuff is in correct proportion. I discovered i didn't like this much stuff(too cluttered) and just built a 2-player cab. But good luck, I hope it works out. Personally i'd at least want more space around the trackball.

elfman12 · « **Reply #3 on:** October 12, 2002, 09:44:20 pm »

Thanks, yeah, I have MOST of the proportions correct, except the monitor - actually, I just got the TV today, (been working off of it's specs) so I'm going to measure it in proper proportions. The box that's in the 3d model is based on the WxHxL of the TV, but I'll have the actual 4X3 screen surface layed out better in a day or so.

I've been mulling the CP layout for over a year now... been all over the board with it. I finally decided that I would make a layout that would fit EVERYTHING that I'd like, then pare it down to what would work best. ACtually, I'll probably lose 2 buttons from each of the outside 8-way sticks, and shift the trigger sticks both to the left a bit. (The main thing is keeping clearance for my arms while using the triggers. If theres a problem with them resting over/on some buttons, I have an idea for a small pop-up "armrest" that will sit astride those buttons) I've mocked this all up on a coffee table, and all "seems" well.

Thanks for the info, I really appreciate and respect everyone's experience. It's the only way to learn, isn't it?

madk · « **Reply #4 on:** October 13, 2002, 02:23:27 am »

The 3 buttons on the bottom next to the balltop stick will get in the way when you are using yer SF setup. That would be my only concern. The cp looks to be very ambitious. Best of luck to you.

-madk

elfman12 · « **Reply #5 on:** October 13, 2002, 03:05:29 am »

Quote from: madk on October 13, 2002, 02:23:27 am

The 3 buttons on the bottom next to the balltop stick will get in the way when you are using yer SF setup.

Yup, good point. I may bring down that 8-way a bit and use it's buttons for the left-handed balltop stick config...

thanks!

elfman12 · « **Reply #6 on:** October 13, 2002, 03:08:55 am »

Does anyone see any major difficulties with the angle of the lower front panel? I haven't seen any other examples that slant like that, so I'm wondering if there's any hidden danger... hehe

I'll recess the coin door, keeping it vertical and building a frame around the recess.

I'll redo the images up repost them tomorrow, to show more changes/detail.

SirPoonga · « **Reply #7 on:** October 13, 2002, 08:49:00 pm »

You a master carpenter? That design is nutz.

6 buttons per player? does 3 and 4 player really need 6 buttons?

elfman12 · « **Reply #8 on:** October 13, 2002, 09:00:34 pm »

Ok, I've make a few changes - killed a few buttons and moved the trigger sticks left, tilted the panel.

Only thing I'm really worried about is if the triggers sticks, being mounted so far back on the CP, will get in the way of the view of the monitor.

Any ideas/tips appreciated!

elfman12 · « **Reply #9 on:** October 13, 2002, 09:17:03 pm »

Quote from: SirPoonga on October 13, 2002, 08:49:00 pm

You a master carpenter? That design is nutz.

6 buttons per player? does 3 and 4 player really need 6 buttons?

Nope, not a master, but if I have trouble I have a couple of friends advisin (one guy just built his own wooden boat!) The curved CP is the idea, but if it doesn't work, I'll make it angular.

I do have this somewhat cool idea for the pinball flippers buttons. On a wide CP, putting the buttons on the side panels can have them too far apart for comfortable play. What I will try to do on this CP is cut out two cubical areas from the FRONT edge, at the proper distance apart, and mount buttons in there. I'd have a sliding door cover those when not in use.

nullb0y · « **Reply #10 on:** October 14, 2002, 10:23:57 pm »

your insane!!!!!!!!!!!!
lol j/k cool design can i come over to play?

elfman12 · « **Reply #11 on:** October 14, 2002, 11:57:41 pm »

Quote from: nullb0y on October 14, 2002, 10:23:57 pm

your insane!!!!!!!!!!!!
lol j/k cool design can i come over to play?

(hehehe) Yup, completely out of my mind. But I'm gonna try it, anyway. (try being the operative word here...)

I'm gonna mock up the CP onto cardboard ASAP. As for cutting those curves in MDF, well, I just plan on sacrificing a few chickens and chanting while I make the cuts. <g>

Dink · « **Reply #12 on:** October 15, 2002, 12:32:25 pm »

When you're trackballing it for Centipede, Missle Command etc. it may seem akward for hand positioning.

I'd swap the trackball and 4-way locations. (IMHO)

Anonymously · « **Reply #13 on:** October 16, 2002, 02:01:36 am »

Quote from: Dink on October 15, 2002, 12:32:25 pm

When you're trackballing it for Centipede, Missle Command etc. it may seem akward for hand positioning.

I'd swap the trackball and 4-way locations. (IMHO)

Yup Specially with bowling game, your hand will hit the plexi glass. Thats what happen on my first designed

SirPoonga · « **Reply #14 on:** October 16, 2002, 05:58:49 am »

Yeah, I see you have a 4way in front of a spinner, in front of a trackball. That just doesn't seem ergonomic to me.

It is REALLY hard to make these all in one panels. That's why many of us make modular or swappable panels. Then you have 1UP who is in a league of his own for awhile.

mikenotbob · « **Reply #15 on:** October 16, 2002, 10:30:08 am »

I'm in agreement w/ Sir Poonga and Dink... you may have trouble w/ that trackball. It seems like you have quite a stretch just to get a hold on it.

Maybe consider oscars restrictor plates on one of the 8-ways for 4-way action? The 4-way buttons look like they're going to get in the way of 'wrsit' resting for the 3rd joystick player.

Also, I'd swap the location of the spinner w/ the trackball. You can use any of the joystick buttons for use w/ the trackball.

neuromancer · « **Reply #16 on:** October 22, 2002, 12:30:32 pm »

Quote from: elfman12 on October 13, 2002, 09:00:34 pm

Ok, I've make a few changes - killed a few buttons and moved the trigger sticks left, tilted the panel.

Looks pretty good. I prefer simple panels, but that's just me. A couple thoughts:

1) Curves are hard to do in wood. You might want to practice that a few times.

2) The slant is ok. The reasons you don't see more that way: a) extra wood b) more complex. The main thing is to keep at least 4 inches of toe room from the front of the CP. Look at kitchen cabinets for a guide.

3) I think you're going to have trouble with the trigger sticks and the track ball. Hold you arms out at the angle for a half hour or so. Not very comfortable. Like washing dishes, but worse.

4) Take your time with the wiring. There's a lot of connections. Your P4 buttons are on the left side of the stick. Why?

Bob

AndyP · « **Reply #17 on:** October 22, 2002, 01:06:38 pm »

About the curve, how were you planning on doing that? Were you going to steam bend something (white oak or ash maybe)? If you're friend's a boatbuilder I guess you're lucky, he may have experiance with that (what sort of boat did he build? For my kayak I spent alot of time bending cedar).

I'm really interested to see how this turns out, it looks incredible.

elfman12 · « **Reply #18 on:** October 22, 2002, 05:33:24 pm »

Ok, here's the latest renders/ideas. I've changed around the middle of the panel quite a bit, and I'm liking this layout better. One 4-player games, P3 can use the right trigger stick and buttons. There's much more forearm room here, I think.

Any ideas?

elfman12 · « **Reply #19 on:** October 22, 2002, 05:39:01 pm »

Quote from: neuromancer on October 22, 2002, 12:30:32 pm

Quote from: elfman12 on October 13, 2002, 09:00:34 pm
Ok, I've make a few changes - killed a few buttons and moved the trigger sticks left, tilted the panel.

Looks pretty good. I prefer simple panels, but that's just me. A couple thoughts:

1) Curves are hard to do in wood. You might want to practice that a few times.

2) The slant is ok. The reasons you don't see more that way: a) extra wood b) more complex. The main thing is to keep at least 4 inches of toe room from the front of the CP. Look at kitchen cabinets for a guide.

3) I think you're going to have trouble with the trigger sticks and the track ball. Hold you arms out at the angle for a half hour or so. Not very comfortable. Like washing dishes, but worse.

4) Take your time with the wiring. There's a lot of connections. Your P4 buttons are on the left side of the stick. Why?

Bob

Bob, thanks for the ideas.

I'm going to practice the CP with some scrap, at least once. The side panels shouldn't be too difficult, they'll just take awhile to get the curved areas.

As for the slant, I'm only worried about the coin door. Do you know if it'll work tilted that much? I thought about recessing it, then framing around it - but that's alot of work. I may just bring the angle of that piece down half-way, then take it straight down, leaving the side pieces to form the rest of the slant.

--Elfman12

elfman12 · « **Reply #20 on:** October 22, 2002, 05:56:38 pm »

Quote from: AndyP on October 22, 2002, 01:06:38 pm

About the curve, how were you planning on doing that? Were you going to steam bend something (white oak or ash maybe)? If you're friend's a boatbuilder I guess you're lucky, he may have experiance with that (what sort of boat did he build? For my kayak I spent alot of time bending cedar).

I'm really interested to see how this turns out, it looks incredible.

AndyP,

Well, I'm not sure which way I'll end up doing it - initially I'll try to cut the top and bottom CP pieces, then notch them about and inch in from the edge, then put a thin, flexible wood material (like paneling, etc) and place in between them, into the notches. A profile slice would look like this:

The strength would come from normal supports (2X4 pieces) just inside those notches.

Other than that, I'd probably think about having the CP top and bottoms curved, but with straight angled supports recessed a couple of inches. Don't think that looks that great, though.

SirPoonga · « **Reply #21 on:** October 22, 2002, 06:30:57 pm »

Quote from: elfman12 on October 22, 2002, 05:33:24 pm

Ok, here's the latest renders/ideas. I've changed around the middle of the panel quite a bit, and I'm liking this layout better. One 4-player games, P3 can use the right trigger stick and buttons. There's much more forearm room here, I think.

Any ideas?

You might want to move the set of controls on the right over. if ythe trigerstick is going to be used for a 3rd plyer it will be VERY elbow to elbow right there.

u_rebelscum · « **Reply #22 on:** October 22, 2002, 08:31:31 pm »

Can you reach the spinner now without bumping the right trigger stick (for right handed spinner manipulation), or the 4-way (for left handed spinner manipulation)? Besides that (and the afore mentioned right side w/4 players elbow room), it looks much better.

elfman12 · « **Reply #23 on:** October 22, 2002, 09:45:15 pm »

Quote from: u_rebelscum on October 22, 2002, 08:31:31 pm

Can you reach the spinner now without bumping the right trigger stick (for right handed spinner manipulation), or the 4-way (for left handed spinner manipulation)? Besides that (and the afore mentioned right side w/4 players elbow room), it looks much better.

Hmmm, if I bring the spinner down and a bit to the left, it should clear the right stick better. I will primarily use it in conjuction with the right trigger stick, (tron, etc) so I was mainly worried about clearing the 4-way.

I've already shifted the the P4 stick and buttons around, clearing more space between it and P3. (right trigger)

Thanks for the tips!
Elfman12

neuromancer · « **Reply #24 on:** October 23, 2002, 11:08:40 am »

On the curved parts: If you do it like you drew, you will need some interior support to hold the top in place, since a flexible piece won't really add any strength. Another option would be to cut a rabet in the top and bottom pieces and then use a piece of say pine to fit in it. You take a saw and cut releif "notches" very close together. That's the way they make curved facia boards on decks.

On the coin door: I hadn't considered if they work on a slant. Maybe someone with one can test for you. Otherwise get it first and try it yourself.

[/B]On the panel: [/B]You could make the 4 way, the trackball and the spiner on a removable sub-panel. The spinner and trackball don't *need* thier own buttons, unless the trackball is also a mouse.

If you did make such a removable panel, you could bring the trigger sticks closer to the edge of the CP, and make the removable part to "extend" past the front edge.

Given your design, you could even make a panel that had the "auxiliary" controls which was hinged at the bottom. It could simply "fold" under the main panel when not it use. That way you don't have those things getting in the way when not in use, but you don't have any of the complexity of connections or alignment. I'm thinking piano hinge.

Bob

PedroSilva · « **Reply #25 on:** August 18, 2005, 11:49:17 am »

Just looking for oldies ...

bendermann · « **Reply #26 on:** August 18, 2005, 06:25:07 pm »

Yah I would like to see what this ended up looking like.


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