25" Arcade Displays

[M3talhead]

Hey guys.

Building my 2nd MAME cab and this time I want to use an arcade monitor instead of a 21" computer display like I had in my Gauntlet II machine. The cabinet I have now is a Midway MK3 with a Hantarex Polo 25". The monitor is shot and I need to replace it. So far I havent found a 25" with a 15-pin D-sub connector. Anybody know of one thats Plug-n-play like the D-9200? I want to keep things as simple as possible by avoiding a lot of headaches that seem to go along with re-wiring a standard monitor with AdvVga. So I guess I'm really calling out to you guys for some help in finding the best 25" display thats out there. Figure about a $500 budget that includes shipping.

Thanks,
-Nick

[SirPeale]

What, exactly, do you mean by shot?  Bad color?  Fuzzy picture? 

A lot of problems can be fixed with a cap kit. 

It won't have the 15 pin DSUB connector, but you can certainly hook it to your computer.

[M3talhead]

Well, first off, I'm in the Air Force and stationed at base in Belgium. There isnt much of anything out here except cows and corn.  Arcades (and repair shops) are non existant. 

When powered on, the monitor does not light up, and there is a faint clicking sound comind from the chassis. Its slightly faster than a second. Its so quiet, you really have to have your ear in the cab to hear it. Since the monitor is 10 years old and getting it repaired would cost me as much as a new one, I figure I'd just go for something else instead of shipping this thing somewhere to get it repaired and shipped back.

I'm not new to the MAME scene, as this is the 2nd cab I've built but I just want to do things right the first time.

[M3talhead]

UPDATE::

I've stumbled on some new information that might prove useful to people who have similar issues with clicking noises coming from a powered chassis. It appears to be caused by an overloaded PS or short circuit.

Thanks to:
http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_monfaq.html
http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_monfaq5.html#MONFAQ_007

8.11) Dead monitor with periodic tweet-tweet-tweet, flub-flub-flub, low-low voltage

A monitor which appears to be dead except for a once a second or so tweet or
flub usually indicates an overload fault in the power supply or a short in one
of its load circuits.  In some cases, the low voltage (including B+) will just
be reduced to a fraction of their normal value as a result of an overload on
one of the outputs - usually the main B+.

Shorted rectifiers in the switching supply or secondary supplies running off
the flyback common.  The HFR854s (one popular type in monitors) or other high
speed high efficiency rectifiers in the output side of the switching power
supply or flyback seem to like to turn into short circuits.  (I had a couple
of DOA monitors where this was the problem. so much for quality control!)

After unplugging the monitor and waiting a few minutes for the filter
capacitors to discharge (check with a voltmeter but stay away from the
CRT HV connector as it may retain a dangerous and painful charge for a long
time), use an ohmmeter across the various diodes in the power supply.
These appear commonly as black cylinders about 3/8" long by 1/4 diameter.
(Kind of like 1N400Xs on steroids).  The resistance of the diodes
in at least one direction should be greater than 100 ohms.
If it is much less (like 0 or 5 ohms), then the diode is probably bad.
Unsolder and check again - it should test infinite (greater than 1M ohms) in
one direction.  If it now tests good, there may be something else that
is shorted.

Replacements are available for about $.25 from places like MCM Electronics.

Check other power semiconductors as well, in particular, the horizontal
output transistor.

Sometimes this is an indication of an *overvoltage shutdown* due to a faulty
regulator or open load.

Summary of possible causes:

        * Bad solder connections.
        * Other shorted components like capacitors.
        * Other problems in the power supply or its controller like bad caps.
        * Bad flyback.
        * Short or excessive load on secondary supplies fed from flyback.
        * Short in horizontal yoke windings.
        * Problem with startup drive (cycling on overvoltage).

As you can see it, appears that a cap kit would solve my problem. Unfortunatly, I still live in the middle of nowhere in a tiny country in Europe. I think maybe the best option now would be to get an 8liner chassis or full-out monitor/chassis/frame assembly shipped out here. With the monitor, shipping and insurance via USPS, the total should be about $340-$360.

I just have one extra question.....

To those who actually HAVE a 25" 8liner already installed, can someone post a few dimensions here? I just want to make sure when I order this thing that it'll fit in my MK3 cab where the Hantarex Polo went.

Thanks guys.....

[clanggedin]

A cap kit is $10... A new monitor is $300. I would try and do the cap kit first, then if it doesn't fix it or you mess it up worse, then you can always get another monitor.

I did my first cap kit this weekend and it's not as scary as it seems. My monitor looks good as now now!

If a cap kit solves the problem, then you would be silly not to do that.

[M3talhead]

Here's the problem, I suck at soldering.

I dont have very steady hands when it comes to stuff like that. About the only thing I could solder decently was a power splitter for my xbox when I upgraded the HDD. I forgot to include a y-cable when I placed the order for the drive from Newegg, so instead I took a busted PS, cut the harness, and soldered the ends to 4 pins and inserted them into the molex side of the power on the xbox. Boom. Instant y-splitter. Even then, I had cold welds.

I'm 22 years old and have a wealth of network administration knowledge, but I'm not that great when it comes to holding an iron steady.

 I thought about doing the cap kit myself, but if I spend hours or days messing with a chassis that happens to be a basket case, I'd go nuts.

[clanggedin]

Dude, I was was feeling the same way when I did my cap kit on Saturday. I thought I couldn't do it. I picked up a solder braid and some flux core solder. I was easier to do and I have a shaky hand. The solder braid sucked up all of the old solder and I just put a little bit of solder on the tip of the iron and touched where I wanted the solder to be and that was it. There were one or two places where I was close to another joint, but every went fine.

My cap kit was on a Sanyo 20EZV, which is one of the more difficult kits to install. It was the first time I ever soldered too.

It will take you longer to find the cap on the PCB then it will to install it. If 3 hours of minor headache will save you $290 then don't you think it's worth a try?? You can use the $290 on  better controls or a faster processor for ypur PC.

[SirPeale]

I have this to say about soldering: practice!  I couldn't solder either, and I've had an iron since I was 15.  Finally, I got sick of saying that I couldn't solder, and started practicing on scrap boards.  Anything with parts will do, you're just practicing.

Tip 1: heat the part, not the solder.

Tip 2: heat as close to the pad as you can.

Tip 3: solder flows UP.

Get some practice under your belt, and in no time you'll be doing quite well.  I still flub, but I'm certainly better than I was!