Jamma connection has nothing (technically) to do with the monitor, it's the pin size/layout specification for connecting the wire harness to an arcade game board.
Almost all monitors, even going back to the late 70's (pre-Jamma circa 1984) use the same input pin connectors as today. .156 pin header, R,G,B,Ground,HSync,VSync in a row (for the most part).
I don't know enough about the IPac and JPac to make comments on that and dont have time to research now. I believe however the intent of the JPac is that it features outputs that connect into an existing JAMMA wired cabinet harness, so that you don't need to do any individual wiring from the control panel to the JPac or from the computer video to the monitor. But this makes a huge assumption: Your new cabinet has the full JAMMA harness still installed, unaltered, and wired correctly. If not, you could either rebuild it or just go with the IPac which requires you to run wires yourself between the IPac and each control and monitor. (Others here with IPacs/JPacs please comment as I don't own either, but believe the statements above are correct)
All computer video cards, including ArcadeVGA only output at 7/10ths of a volt (0.7v) Arcade monitors require 4-5 volt top peak for full brightness of the signal.
However, MOST arcade monitors will properly display the image if you adjust one of a handful of settings to "brighten" the picture, or in otherwords, amplify the signal once it's already into the monitor. These controls include:
SCREEN (one of the 2 controls on the big black flyback transformer, OR on neckboard)
Brightness (usually next to the video input cable)
R/G/B Gain controls (not cutoffs), individually balance the brightness level of each signal.
I have connected up 3 old PCI/AGP video cards to old arcade monitors and all were adjustable to display the image as well as a real arcade board. Only buy the video amplifier (or build one) if your monitor doesn't have the ability to display the signal bright enough after adjusting up the dials.