My new computer (a.k.a. Sorry, Guys 2)

[Floyd10]

Ok, I think That I've settled for a desktop design that I like.
Here are the specs and prices:
OCZ PowerStream 420W PSU ($100)
Thermalright SLK-800U Heatsink ($49.95)
Pre-Assembled Acrylic PC Case ($90)
ThermalTake XRay ($19.99)
Sound Blaster Audigy 2 ZS Gamer Sound System ($129.99)
3.5 inch Internal Floppy Drive, Black ($14.95)
8x2x12 Internal IDE DVD+/-RW Dual Format Drive ($89.99)
Verto GeForce 6800 GT Video Card, 8x AGP, 256MB DDR3 ($399.99)
250GB, 7200RPM, Internal ATA/133 Hard Drive ($179.99)
TV Wonder VE (NTSC) TV-tuner / Video Capture PCI Card ($50)
Inspire T7700 7.1 Speaker System ($129.99)
L4AX 14.1-inch LCD Monitor ($250)
MX900 Bluetooth Optical Mouse, USB ($100)
Comfort Type MultiMedia Keyboard, PS/2 ($20)
Motherboard, Ram, Processer Bundle ($697) (http://www.jncs.com/php/bundle/show.php?mb=mb-ab-ic7g)
All Together (Face Value): 2577
All together (extreme Taxes added): 2783.16

Do you think that this is enough to run when Built?

(and PLEASE! don't mention prices.)

[zaphod]

Yes, you should be able to email people and surf the BYOAC forums with that.

It's funny looking at what you are specing out.  I have a decent job, live comfortably, but that machine is wayyyyyyyy out of my price range.  But if that is how you choose to spend your money, go for it.  Just don't be depressed when next month it's outdated.

[DrewKaree]

OCZ PowerStream 420W PSU ($100)

smart move - going with a decent PSU

Pre-Assembled Acrylic PC Case ($90)

can't hate these kinda cases more, but just because they don't make acrylic CD/HD/Floppy cases (I think if you're gonna go acrylic, make EVERYTHING acrylic)

3.5 inch Internal Floppy Drive, Black ($14.95)

it's not acrylic.  Other than that, what OS are you gonna use?  If you're going XP (or even if you're not) why bother with the floppy drive?  

8x2x12 Internal IDE DVD+/-RW Dual Format Drive ($89.99)

I dunno who the manufacturer is, but I'd put more money down to get a Plextor (or if they carry the Lite-On, it's the same thing - Plextor makes 'em for Lite-On)

TV Wonder VE (NTSC) TV-tuner / Video Capture PCI Card ($50)

why not drop this and get an ATI All-in-wonder?

MX900 Bluetooth Optical Mouse, USB ($100)

what do you require Bluetooth for?  Otherwise, save the bucks and get the MX700, saving yourself $30 or more bucks and put that money into

Comfort Type MultiMedia Keyboard, PS/2 ($20)

a cordless keyboard?  But WHATEVER you do, DO NOT NEVER EVER IN A MILLION YEARS (did I say DO NOT NEVER EVER IN A MILLION YEARS yet?) buy the Logitech cordless desktop with the MX700.  It's a crapshoot if they both work, and if they don't, the mouse will work and the keyboard will be a worthless doorstop.

http://www.jncs.com/php/bundle/show.php?mb=mb-ab-ic7g)

I don't feel like clicking your link...I've got my hands full of potato chips and TV remotes  

[MasTequila]

Yeah that should be able to do just about anything, including draining your bank account.  Not the processor/mobo bundle I would have chosen but should be fine.

~Mas

Side note: That tax is insane

[GamingGreg]

You're always going to pay top dollar for "bleeding edge" technology, and that appears to be "top dollar" alright.   I don't know what your needs are, but that kind of power isn't needed for most of today's applications.  Even most games don't need that kind of horsepower (CPU anyway).  My recomendations would be to get something just under the "latest and greatest".  You could save a lot, meet your needs, and still have a machine that will last you a few years before needing an upgrade.  However it's your money, so spend it how you like.

[JoyMonkey]

8x2x12 Internal IDE DVD+/-RW Dual Format Drive ($89.99)

I'd go with this NEC drive. It also writes to dual layer discs, is a little cheaper and has been getting good reviews.

250GB, 7200RPM, Internal ATA/133 Hard Drive ($179.99)

How about dual SATA Raptors in a striped Raid setup?

Comfort Type MultiMedia Keyboard, PS/2 ($20)

I've used a LOT of keyboards in my time and I keep going back to this basic but incredibly comfortable keyboard. Comes with a nice optical mouse too!

Motherboard, Ram, Processer Bundle ($697) (http://www.jncs.com/php/bundle/show.php?mb=mb-ab-ic7g)

For that money I'd go with an Athlon64 system

[johnnysmitch]

Wow, what a ridiculously high end setup!  Should run pretty decent for ya - but I gotta agree with JoyMonkey; if you're gonna drop a pile of money on a uber-system, why not go with an Athlon64?  On the same note, that's a pretty small monitor for such a badass setup; I'm guessing you're gonna be playing a game or two on this, so why not shovel out a few more bucks for a bigger screen?  17 inchers are getting pretty cheap, and you can get a 19" Dell ultrasharp for about $500 from ebay wholesalers (I've got this and I think it's gorgeous, tho the response time's not that fastest, so there's some ghosting on FPS games...)  Just my opinions.  Savvy?

[DaveMMR]

I've been reading the last thread and this thread talking about the computer but with all that 'oomph' you're putting into your system (not to mention dough) I never got what kind of games you're looking to play.  

I'm weird - I'll be into PC gaming for 5 or 10 minutes, then realize it's more hassle (and money) than it's worth and go back to the X-Box, PS2 or Gamecube.  The reason I say this is because, if you're like that too, you may want to save the almost three grand and just buy some consoles.

[Sephroth57]

ok i have a lot of comments but im too lazy to type them all, but most importantly.

14inch LCD?? thats crap, i have a 15 inch at work and its ok for WORK but not for gaming which that is obviously made for. I picked up a 21 inch VIEWABLE flat screen (not LCD) monitor for like 200$ on ebay and its amazing. really look into a larger, non LCD, monitor

and seriously you got a hookup giving you secret games or something? last time i checked my 1.6ghz comp with a geforce4 runs every game out on full graphics... so yeah..


edit:  also when you grow up a little more, youll be worrying about getting a nice car, chicks dont care about the specs on your computer.... maybe you shouldnt be wasting all that money

[Floyd10]

Ok, Im taking it all into consideration (including chicks )
I am going to be looking into the suggestions, and I'll post in an hour or so my new specs.

To that chicks comment, I'm gonna be in the city, working ---my bottom--- off to afford a decent place (probably have a roomie), girls will be the least of my worries, until I go somewhere with music.

The Card is going to be as good as I can get, because I don't want to have to update it for a few years. Thats why everything's so high-end (except for monitor of course )

ok, post latas

EDIT: Also, I have a floppy, for 2 reasons:
1. I am still in HS. I need to transfer Data between comps. My school doesnt have cd burners, and the internet is unreliable.
2. TO use up my expansion bays of course

[Floyd10]

New Specs:

Case: Pre-Assembled Acrylic PC Case ($90)
Power Supply: OCZ PowerStream 420W PSU ($100)
Heatsink: Thermalright SLK-800U Heatsink ($49.95)
Motherboard: 845GL uATX Motherboard, Socket mPGA478 for Pentium 4 and Celeron Processors ($100)
RAM: 1 GB PC3200 184pin DDR DIMM Memory Modules ($250)
Processor: Pentium 4, 3.00cGHz, 800MHz Bus, Socket 478 Processor with Hyper-Threading ($340)
Drives: 3.5 inch Internal Floppy Drive, Black ($14.95)
NEC 8X Black Dual Layer DVD+/-RW Drive, Model ND-2510A BLK, OEM BULK  ($77)
250GB, 7200RPM, Internal ATA/133 Hard Drive ($179.99)
Sound card: Sound Blaster Audigy 2 ZS Gamer Sound System ($129.99)
TV tuner/Vid. capture: All-In-Wonder 9800 Pro Video Card, 8x AGP, 128MB ($399.99)
Monitor: Radius RAD-7c 17-inch LCD Multimedia Monitor, Silver/Gray ($431.47)
Mouse: Wireless IntelliMouse Explorer Mouse, PS/2, USB ($50)
Keyboard: Multimedia Office Keyboard With Scroll Bar, USB ($15)
Speakers: VS2121 Power Audio 2.1 Stereo Speaker System ($50)
Mod: ThermalTake XRay ($19.99)

All Together (Face Value): 2298.34
All together (extreme Taxes added): 2482.21

[pointdablame]

DO NOT GET THAT KDS LCD. I repeat... DO NOT GET IT!!  KDS LCDs are terrible, especially for gaming.  Go get yourself an older Dell 1800FP if you wanna save some bucks, or try for a Samsung 192N if DVI isn't important to you, 191T if DVI is important. Samsung's 172x (I think is the model) is great also (12ms response time IIRC).  Whatever you do though, don't get the KDS.

I'd also really recommend looking into an Athlon64 system.  Not trying to start an AMD/Intel debate here, its just int your spec/price range, it really NEEDS to be at least considered.  Nothing wrong with the P4 you have though, but at least check it out... especially if you're trying to future proof yourself a bit (which isn't really possible with computers heh)

And another heads up... you can save some cash by shopping at NewEgg.com.
Your sound card is $111 there, NEC floppy is $10, HDD is a couple bucks cheaper, you can get the SLK948U for only $40.  

The worst is the CPU and video card, you are wayyyyy overpaying.  The 3.0c OEM at newegg is $214, Retail is $223.  9800pro AIW is $272... and I can go on and on.  You can bring your prices WAY down.

[Goz]

Your latest quote is also a good $100 too high on the RAM.

You can get a good set (OZ / Corsair dual channel 1GB PC4000) for a bout $200.

You might want to shop arround a little more. Remember your best bet in pricing is rarely to get everything from the same place.

Good Luck,

-Goz

[DaveMMR]

I use a KDS LCD at work.  It looks HORRIBLE with games.  LCDs it general are not great for gaming as pointdablame pointed out (though there are new LCDs screens coming out with higher refresh rates but you'll need to dig deep in your pockets for those at the moment).

Secondly, check computer shows that run very frequently in the tri-state area (I assume you live in NY).  Their prices are cheaper than say CompUSA, Dell, or MicroSystems and I've never had a problem with any of the vendors (though you're on your own with installation - make sure you're familiar with putting a computer together though it's really not all that difficult as long as you remember to ground yourself).  

Third, you should really re-evaluate specifically what games you're looking to play before blowing $3000 on a 'gaming system' (and also ask yourself how often you play games).  Because, honestly, I've seen some Dell setups that run graphic-intensive games quite good and are half of what you're looking to spend.  And if you're the type of person that doesn't like FPS - then the specs you listed are overkill.

         

 

[Floyd10]

I changed my monitor, it's no longer KDS. Still looking for a GOOD monitor, and I'm gonna check out the suggestions. I do live in new york, But I hate those dome center computer shows. I don't know why, I just do. I am not aiming to buy the bulk of these online. Thats why I used compusa's site. I can go to henrietta (30 mins away) and buy them offline. It's a nice store.
Ok, I'm audi

[shmokes]

Ditch the case.  Acrylic cases are terrible for static electricity and static electricity is such an awful, awful problem to diagnose.  You computer will suddenly hang or reboot, so you'll try to figure out what component is causing the problem.  You'll update drivers, develop suspicions about who the culprit is, replace him, and the problem won't go away.  You will learn to hate your computer.

I highly recommend Antec and Lian Li cases.  They are absolutely top quality (and top price for Lian Li).  Working inside them is SOOO nice compared to the average caes.  Damn thoughtful engineers.

Don't get me wrong, Acrylic cases can look cool, but trust me: once the novelty wears off you'll wish you considered more the aesthetics when making your case decision.

Oh yeah....if this is primarily a gaming PC (as it obviously is) DO NOT GET AN LCD SCREEN AT ALL (on your budget).  Get a CRT.  Why invest in all that horsepower if your games are still unplayable (or look crappy).  Own up to the fact that you can't afford a decent size LCD with a decent response time and grab a 19" or larger CRT monitor.  You can pick up a 19" monitor for $100 now and replace it in a year when LCD prices have fallen and your wallet has recovered a little.

[Sylentwulf]

I won't mention prices.

But then, that doesn't leave me anything to say, other than this:
"if you're going to overspend by a couple thousand dollars, you might as well buy an alienware."

[Trenchbroom]

I'd go with this NEC drive. It also writes to dual layer discs, is a little cheaper and has been getting good reviews.

That DVD burner is awesome!  Just bought one, works like a charm.  Easy firmware upgrades from NEC on the net makes it even better.   Definitely the one I'd recommend.

[pointdablame]

Why would you waste $200-400 at LEAST just because you don't want to buy things online.  You're in NY, I'm in NJ. NewEgg has a new warehouse in NJ.  If you order from them, you'll have to pay no tax, and you'll have your stuff in like 3 days.  Same goes for a lot of online stores, but NewEgg especially is an extremely fast shipper.

I mean... if I can be frank for a moment... spending extra money just to buy computer parts in a store is not worth it at all.  There is absolutely no reason to do it.  If you are content spending that extra money, you might as well buy online and get BETTER parts.

Just my .02

[pointdablame]

And just one other quick note on the LCDs.  There actually are a few monitors that are very good for gaming.  I have a Dell1800FP myself, which is why I mentioned it.  On paper, with its 25ms response time, it'd seem like a terrible gaming monitor.  But it is widely regarded as an excellent gaming monitor.  I've run everything on it with absolutely no ghosting at all.  UT2k4, FarCry, Unreal 2, etc etc.  You name it, and this monitor can handle it.  My girlfriend has a Samsung 192N and it is also an ok monitor for gaming, although not quite as crisp as the Dell IMO.  The samsung 191T si an excellent gaming monitor, with the 172x even better.

I mentioned the monitors that I did up above specifically for gaming, so you should really check them out.

[paigeoliver]

Whoa, all wrong, and a bunch of money wasted.

I have owned countless computers and I can tell you exactly where your money is well spent and exactly where it is tossed out the window.

The number one priority is to have the CORRECT amount of RAM. Which would be 512 in your case. Sure you COULD buy a gig, but it is going to be wasted unless you are living and breathing photoshop.

Number two thing in how much you are going to like your computer is the monitor. Any 21" tubed monitor is going to be great. Anything else is less than ideal. As everyone else has said, LCD monitors are for morons and businesses, both of which are the same thing. The only advantage they have over crts is the fact that they are thin. That thinness of course comes with a pile of disadvantages.

Number 3 thing is power supply, seems to be the first line of failure on modern computers, get a good one, and it will probably last.


As for hard drives, eh, buy one, if you are a power user then you will eventually fill it regardless of size.

Processor. I developed a rule about processors a long time ago, and this is the rule. $110 is the most I will spend on one. The fact is that a $110 will always play any game out, and will be roughly 4-5x the needed horsepower for any non-gaming app.

Motherboard. Make sure it has an AGP slot, and don't buy the cheapest one out there, but do look for onboard sound and network to save you from buying that stuff separate.

Sound, forget it. I used to buy fancy sound cards, but they just don't sound much any different on stereo setups, and 4 speaker setups are easily accomplished with the older soundblaster lives. I used to run a "live" and 5 speakers, but it just got annoying, and I went back to onboard audio, sounds exactly the same.

Modems. I haven't bought a modem in years. They don't make hardware modems in PCI and current boards don't have ISA. If you need a modem then find an old external 56K one (serial port). If I HAVE to use one, then I will use a serial one.



ANyway, where was I. Oh, yeah, you also seem to be doing one of two really dumb things here.

#1. Replacing every single bit of your existing PC hardware. I mean, that is what my clueless female friends do, guys should know better than that.

#2. Spending a BUNDLE on your first computer.

[GGKoul]

I highly recommend Antec and Lian Li cases.  They are absolutely top quality (and top price for Lian Li).  Working inside them is SOOO nice compared to the average caes.  Damn thoughtful engineers.

I purchased both a Lian Li case with a Enermax PSU and I hated the noise level out of my machine.

So I purchased the super quiet Antec Sonata case.  http://www.antec.com/us/pro_details_enclosure.php?ProdID=15138

It's so quiet you can't very tell its on.  Plus it comes with great 420w PSU.    Plus it looks great in all black.

-GGKoul

[pointdablame]

paige paige paige, I agree with a lot of stuff you said, but a few things strike me as odd:

There are good reasons to have 1 gig of ram other than photoshop.  Increasingly, high end games use up a lot more ram.  Battlefield 1942 eats us over 600mb of ram on a regular basis on my system.  FarCry also sees an improvement with more ram and eats up quite a bit (although 512 will suffice).  Also, having a gig of ram will allow you to get rid of your pagefile.

As far as LCDs being for morons, I almost take offense to that.  There ARE good LCDs out there, and they are as good or better than many CRTs you can buy.  While I agree that a nice 21" Diamondtron etc etc CRT is the cream of the crop, to say LCDs are pretty much useless is foolish.  I'd venture to say you don't have much experience with LCDs paige, or if you do, they have been of a low quality.  While I will not yet throw my CRTs away for an all LCD setup, I do not regret getting one for an instant.  

I agree with you on everything else though, especially the power supply.  Don't buy a no-name PSU, because if you do, it won't matter how great your other components are when they fry because of fluctuating power rails.

[SpamMe]

Um... How bout this: What are you going to be using this computer for?

[Floyd10]

Gaming. I was going to do some new shopping, but I had to travel. Resuming...

Edit: BTW, The reason that I dont want to buy online is bc I would have to order all at once (for best deal), and since I dont have all money at once...

[DaveMMR]

Gaming. I was going to do some new shopping, but I had to travel. Resuming...

Edit: BTW, The reason that I dont want to buy online is bc I would have to order all at once (for best deal), and since I dont have all money at once...

Don't those same limitations apply for buying in a store.  Or am I misunderstanding that?  Actually if I didn't have the all the money at once I'd definately buy on-line (or a computer show but you're avoiding them for some reasom).

[Floyd10]

lol. Here is the new list:

NEW EGG LIST:
Case: POWMAX Black/Silver Mid Tower ATX Case with 400W Power Supply, Side Window & handle, Model "CP0327PL-4" -RETAIL  ($28)
Heatsink: Thermalright Copper Heatsink for both Intel and AMD, Model "SLK948U" -RETAIL  ($40)
Case Fan: Thermaltake "Blue-Eye" High Performance 80mm LED Case Fan -RETAIL ($5.99)
Motherboard: SOLTEK "SL-865Pro2-FGR" i865PE Chipset Motherboard for Intel Socket 478 CPU -RETAIL ($101)
RAM: Corsair Value Select Dual Channel Kit 184 Pin 1G(512MBx2) DDR PC-3200 - OEM ($171)
Network card (wireless)-Link AirPlus G High Speed 2.4GHz 802.11g Wireless Cardbus Adapter, Model DWL-G630 - Retail ($38)
Processor: Pentium 4, 3.00cGHz, 800MHz Bus, Socket 478 Processor with Hyper-Threading ($340)
Drives: SONY Black 1.44MB 3.5inch Floppy Disk Drive, Model MPF920, OEM ($10.99)
Plextor 12X DVD+RW/-RW Drive, Model PX-712A, Retail ($147)
Seagate 160GB 7200RPM SATA Hard Drive, Model ST3160023AS, OEM  ($114)
Sound card: Creative Labs Sound Blaster Audigy2 ZS GAMER Limited Edition PCI Sound Card, Model "SB0350" -RETAIL ($206)
TV tuner/Vid. capture: All-In-Wonder 9800 Pro Video Card, 8x AGP, 128MB ($399.99) (Not Newegg)
Monitor: CTX VL951T 19" CRT Monitor -RETAIL ($115)
Mouse: Logitech Blue Performance Optical Mouse PS2/ USB, Model "MX510" -RETAIL ($43)
Keyboard: Multimedia Office Keyboard With Scroll Bar, USB ($15) (not Newegg)
Speakers: ALTEC LANSING ATP3 BLACK 3-Piece Speaker System -RETAIL ($50)
Mod: ThermalTake XRay ($19.99) (NOT NEWEGG)

All Together (Face Value): 1840.98
All together (Extra Charges):

Newegg Shipping: 71.46
NYS Tax on compusa: 33.20
Think Geek Shipping: 5.57

EQUALS: 1951.21

[DaveMMR]

Ahhhh.... just buy an X-Box and be done with it.  See, I just saved you $1700 (assuming you buy a few games).

[pointdablame]

That list looks a lot better, except for that monitor.... I'm not sure about that one.  You might wanna look for a better CRT.  Monitors are definitely NOT where you should skimp.  I'm also not sure about the power supply in that case.  I don't know how good PowMax PSUs are.  If I were you, I'd spend an extra $10-20 for an Antec case with an Antec PSU, or get a case w/o a PSU and get an Antec or Enermax PSU.  Vantec supposedly makes good PSUs also, but I have no first hand experience with them.

Also, did you compare those prices against an Athlon64 setup?  Might be able to save a bit there too, not sure though off hand.

Overall though, that list looks much better.

[Floyd10]

STOP with the athlon crap. Yes I did compare, And I am more happy with P4. The Power supply looked good from what I saw on the product page (and pics). and what's wrong with the CRT?

[zaphod]

STOP with the athlon crap. Yes I did compare, And I am more happy with P4. The Power supply looked good from what I saw on the product page (and pics). and what's wrong with the CRT?

The two CTX monitors I've dealt with in recent years (at work) were not the best.  Gave nice eye strain after an hour or two.  We junked them fairly fast.  You could do better.

[lokki]

STOP with the athlon crap. Yes I did compare, And I am more happy with P4. The Power supply looked good from what I saw on the product page (and pics). and what's wrong with the CRT?

I thought you said you did not want to have to buy a computer for a couple of years. In a couple of years you may need a 64 Bit CPU

[Darkstalker]

"STOP with the athlon crap. Yes I did compare, And I am more happy with P4."

Hey, it's your descision, but I'd take a look at the 64-bit Athlon line before dismissing AMD.  Fine if you don't believe me, but people specing out high-end gaming rigs for a living:

http://www.anandtech.com/guides/showdoc.aspx?i=2100&p=11

And both an Intel and AMD system, the AMD system being the slightly cheaper of the two:

http://www.sharkyextreme.com/guides/MHGSBG/article.php/10707_3373781__8

Even with people building shoe-string budget gaming rigs:

http://www6.tomshardware.com/game/20040529/game_machine-07.html#the_final_shopping_list

But again, your money, your call

"The number one priority is to have the CORRECT amount of RAM. Which would be 512 in your case. Sure you COULD buy a gig, but it is going to be wasted unless you are living and breathing photoshop."

Or play Unreal Tournament 2k4, FarCry, Battlefield 1942, DAoC/Eversmack, or plan on playing Half Life 2.  

"Also, having a gig of ram will allow you to get rid of your pagefile."

I don't recommed ever shutting off your pagefile.  Should you actually run short on memory, you'll get crashes and errors instead of temporary slowdown.  Not to mention, why would you want passive running processes taking up RAM?

"Number two thing in how much you are going to like your computer is the monitor. Any 21" tubed monitor is going to be great. Anything else is less than ideal."

I agree with this.   Monitors are the one thing you don't want to skimp on.  You could have the best hardware in the world, but hooking it up to a crappy monitor will just make your games look like crap.  LCDs are great if you use the DVI hookup, otherwise don't bother.  I'd still rather have a nice and big flat screen CRT with a Mitsubishi or Sony tube though.

"Sound, forget it. I used to buy fancy sound cards, but they just don't sound much any different on stereo setups, and 4 speaker setups are easily accomplished with the older soundblaster lives. I used to run a "live" and 5 speakers, but it just got annoying, and I went back to onboard audio, sounds exactly the same."

The only reason I see to get top-end sound cards would be sound processing features like EAX.  Playing System Shock 2 with on-board surround, and playing with EAX-powered surround is a world of difference.  If features like that aren't important, skip the PCI soundcard and stay with on-board.

"Modems. I haven't bought a modem in years. They don't make hardware modems in PCI and current boards don't have ISA. If you need a modem then find an old external 56K one (serial port). If I HAVE to use one, then I will use a serial one."

The only hardware based modems to my knowledge is from U.S. Robotics because they own the patent, and they do still make PCI V.92 modems (http://www.usr.com/products/home/p-home-menu.asp).  Back in the day, they came out with X2, which was hardware-based compression.  Lucent made their 56k system (k56Flex, or something like that), but it was software based compression.  This was all back in the day of 166Mhz processors.  Now, processors are SO FAST, it really doesn't even matter anymore.  Unless you are running Photoshop filters on large pictures and listening to MP3s while trying to download a file over dial-up, I doubt you are going to get any download speed performance drops with a software based modem.

[Floyd10]

Ok, I found a good new monitor:

NEW EGG LIST:
Case: POWMAX Black/Silver Mid Tower ATX Case with 400W Power Supply, Side Window & handle, Model "CP0327PL-4" -RETAIL  ($28)
Heatsink: Thermalright Copper Heatsink for both Intel and AMD, Model "SLK948U" -RETAIL  ($40)
Case Fan: Thermaltake "Blue-Eye" High Performance 80mm LED Case Fan -RETAIL ($5.99)
Motherboard: SOLTEK "SL-865Pro2-FGR" i865PE Chipset Motherboard for Intel Socket 478 CPU -RETAIL ($101)
RAM: Corsair Value Select Dual Channel Kit 184 Pin 1G(512MBx2) DDR PC-3200 - OEM ($171)
Network card (wireless)-Link AirPlus G High Speed 2.4GHz 802.11g Wireless Cardbus Adapter, Model DWL-G630 - Retail ($38)
Processor: Pentium 4, 3.00cGHz, 800MHz Bus, Socket 478 Processor with Hyper-Threading ($340)
Drives: SONY Black 1.44MB 3.5inch Floppy Disk Drive, Model MPF920, OEM ($10.99)
Plextor 12X DVD+RW/-RW Drive, Model PX-712A, Retail ($147)
Seagate 160GB 7200RPM SATA Hard Drive, Model ST3160023AS, OEM  ($114)
Sound card: Creative Labs Sound Blaster Audigy2 ZS GAMER Limited Edition PCI Sound Card, Model "SB0350" -RETAIL ($206)
TV tuner/Vid. capture: All-In-Wonder 9800 Pro Video Card, 8x AGP, 128MB ($399.99) (Not Newegg)
Monitor: ORION 19DFLB 19" Flat CRT Monitor Black Retail ($165)
Mouse: Logitech Blue Performance Optical Mouse PS2/ USB, Model "MX510" -RETAIL ($43)
Keyboard: Multimedia Office Keyboard With Scroll Bar, USB ($15) (not Newegg)
Speakers: ALTEC LANSING ATP3 BLACK 3-Piece Speaker System -RETAIL ($50)
Mod: ThermalTake XRay ($19.99) (NOT NEWEGG)

All Together (Face Value): 1890.98
All together (Extra Charges):

Newegg Shipping: 71.46
NYS Tax on compusa: 33.20
Think Geek Shipping: 5.57

EQUALS: 2001.21

[Darkstalker]

Going off the latest hardware list:

"Case: POWMAX Black/Silver Mid Tower ATX Case with 400W Power Supply, Side Window & handle, Model "CP0327PL-4" -RETAIL  ($28)"

Look into Alumninum cases.  Not only are they cooler running, they are WAY lighter and easier to move around for LAN parties.  Here's one similar to the model I bought for my tower, and I'm really happy with it:

http://www.coolerguys.com/840556018339.html

Definately more than $28 though, but I felt it was worth it.

"Heatsink: Thermalright Copper Heatsink for both Intel and AMD, Model "SLK948U" -RETAIL  ($40)"

Do yourself a favor and just get a retail CPU with some silver-based heatsink compound instead of getting an OEM chip and fan.  Not only do you get a better warranty with a retail box (Only 30 days with OEM!), you get a certified fan from the manufacturer to go with the chip.  Use the silver heatsink compound instead of the stock stuff and you're set.  Having your own fan is only helpful if you overclock, which really seems fruitless in this day and age.

"Network card (wireless)-Link AirPlus G High Speed 2.4GHz 802.11g Wireless Cardbus Adapter, Model DWL-G630 - Retail ($38)"

Do you have a 802.11g router/bridge already?  Netgear has the 802.11t (I think it's t...) which is supposed to be quicker...Only works short-range and max speed from what I hear though.  Ethernet will be quicker passing around big files, especially if you get to use the gigabit functionality of the on-board NIC.  Unless you have a laptop, or can't/won't run cable, I would skip the wireless on a tower myself.

"Processor: Pentium 4, 3.00cGHz, 800MHz Bus, Socket 478 Processor with Hyper-Threading ($340)"

Good chip from Intel, but I'm inclined to go 64-bit since that seems to be where the x86 market is heading.

"Seagate 160GB 7200RPM SATA Hard Drive, Model ST3160023AS, OEM  ($114)"

Haven't done my homework, but do they have 10kRPM SATA drives yet?  I'm curious to see if it would make enough of a difference.

"Monitor: CTX VL951T 19" CRT Monitor -RETAIL ($115)"

I'd be a little concerned about anything labeled as a "value series" when going high-end.  Find a nice Mitsubishi tube CRT...You'll pay a little bit more, but WOW is it worth it...

"Mouse: Logitech Blue Performance Optical Mouse PS2/ USB, Model "MX510" -RETAIL ($43)"

I prefer Microsoft mice, just because they feel more comfortable with the way I rest my hand on the mouse.  Optical is definately the way to go though...No more cleaning rollers!

[Floyd10]

Going off the latest hardware list:

"Case: POWMAX Black/Silver Mid Tower ATX Case with 400W Power Supply, Side Window & handle, Model "CP0327PL-4" -RETAIL  ($28)"

Look into Alumninum cases.  Not only are they cooler running, they are WAY lighter and easier to move around for LAN parties.
May be true, But Im kind of smitten with this

"Heatsink: Thermalright Copper Heatsink for both Intel and AMD, Model "SLK948U" -RETAIL  ($40)"

Do yourself a favor and just get a retail CPU with some silver-based heatsink compound instead of getting an OEM chip and fan.  Not only do you get a better warranty with a retail box (Only 30 days with OEM!), you get a certified fan from the manufacturer to go with the chip.  Use the silver heatsink compound instead of the stock stuff and you're set.  Having your own fan is only helpful if you overclock, which really seems fruitless in this day and age.
Well I would, but I don't have a problem with this, even with those points

"Network card (wireless)-Link AirPlus G High Speed 2.4GHz 802.11g Wireless Cardbus Adapter, Model DWL-G630 - Retail ($38)"

Do you have a 802.11g router/bridge already?  Netgear has the 802.11t (I think it's t...) which is supposed to be quicker...Only works short-range and max speed from what I hear though.  Ethernet will be quicker passing around big files, especially if you get to use the gigabit functionality of the on-board NIC.  Unless you have a laptop, or can't/won't run cable, I would skip the wireless on a tower myself.
I have a netgear Wireless router, and all cards in our house (more than two kinds) work fine with it, so I'm not really worried

"Processor: Pentium 4, 3.00cGHz, 800MHz Bus, Socket 478 Processor with Hyper-Threading ($340)"

Good chip from Intel, but I'm inclined to go 64-bit since that seems to be where the x86 market is heading.
...

"Seagate 160GB 7200RPM SATA Hard Drive, Model ST3160023AS, OEM  ($114)"

Haven't done my homework, but do they have 10kRPM SATA drives yet?  I'm curious to see if it would make enough of a difference.
No clue

"Monitor: CTX VL951T 19" CRT Monitor -RETAIL ($115)"

I'd be a little concerned about anything labeled as a "value series" when going high-end.  Find a nice Mitsubishi tube CRT...You'll pay a little bit more, but WOW is it worth it...
Already changed in last post (u prob missed, but that's ok )

"Mouse: Logitech Blue Performance Optical Mouse PS2/ USB, Model "MX510" -RETAIL ($43)"

I prefer Microsoft mice, just because they feel more comfortable with the way I rest my hand on the mouse.  Optical is definately the way to go though...No more cleaning rollers!
Personal Pref.

[/b]

[JoyMonkey]

"Seagate 160GB 7200RPM SATA Hard Drive, Model ST3160023AS, OEM  ($114)"
Haven't done my homework, but do they have 10kRPM SATA drives yet?  I'm curious to see if it would make enough of a difference.
No clue

They do indeed!
 My current system has two 36Gb WD Raptors in a striped raid setup - it makes a huge difference, but they're pretty pricey.  EIDE drives are so cheap now though, you could use Raptors to run your OS and use an EIDE for extra storage.

[pointdablame]

If you can afford one Raptor at least, I'd suggest making it your OS/main app drive.  It really does make a difference.  I have one in my Shuttle and love it.

And floyd... as far as the "athlon crap" I was just trying to help bro.  I'm not some sort of AMD fanboy, although you are looking a lot like an Intel one.  I've built over 25 computers, and all I know is if I were building a gaming system today, it would be Athlon64.  Read some reviews, look at the benchmarks.  I was just giving you other options... and an option that is superior in many respects at that.  I have 2 P4 systems in my house as well as 3 AMDs, I never told you NOT to get the P4.  In fact I said it was a good chip.  But when you said you'd like to NOT buy a computer or upgrade for as long as possible, that told me to go A64.  As was said... that's the way the market is going.  In two years, you'll just have to upgrade your mobo and processor to the Intel equivalent 64bit stuff if things take off the way they might.

I just think your comment showed your ignorance, and I still suggest you at least LOOk at the A64s, considering what you yourself have told us you are looking for.  

Or if you're just a big ol' Intel fanboy, go waste all your cash on a 3.4EE that gives you practically no gain in performance when compared to the price (IMHO).  That oughta show your loser AMD friends

and if it wasn't clear, I was j/k with ya up there ^^^

[Floyd10]

No, What I meant by crap is, almost every post was suggesting it. Nothing personal. I did check it out, and it just wasn't what I wanted. I didnt mean to offend.

[pointdablame]

It's cool.  I didn't want to offend either.  Enjoy your new system.