Author Topic: The Gold Mine (Read 98736 times)

KrawDaddy · « **Reply #240 on:** October 09, 2004, 09:07:54 pm »

Heres a little update.

-Some progress on CP

-Ive ordered a Pinball Lockdown Bar that Iam going to hack the ends off of and mount on the CP to give comfort and the feeling of a real Pinball machine. Heres the bar...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=6122728807&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

-I recessed the trackball plate and it will be laminated over.

-I am going to drill pilot holes and use socket cap wood screws to mount the joysticks...Anybody have problems with this?

-Ive ordered some tempered transparent gray glass for my monitor.

KrawDaddy · « **Reply #241 on:** October 09, 2004, 09:08:25 pm »

Witchboard · « **Reply #242 on:** October 09, 2004, 10:36:37 pm »

Quote from: KrawDaddy on October 09, 2004, 09:07:54 pm

-I am going to drill pilot holes and use socket cap wood screws to mount the joysticks...Anybody have problems with this?

Just curious, but why wouldn't you use tee-nuts? Especially if you're going to laminate it. You won't have to worry about stripping the wood out or some body tearing your joysticks loose.

KrawDaddy · « **Reply #243 on:** October 09, 2004, 10:41:25 pm »

I dont think people give credit to how strong a properly installed wood screw is, and since my arcade would never be installed in a public place I would rather not bore through the laminate and leave it as clean as posible. If they do get ripped out I could install carrige bolts at that time. What do you think?

froggerman · « **Reply #244 on:** October 10, 2004, 03:09:03 am »

I second Witchboard's comment. When you use t-nuts there are no extra holes in the laminate, only the one where the stick goes through. T-nuts also give you the ability to remove and reinstall the machine screws as many times as you like. It is really no different than what you are doing with the trackball.

KrawDaddy · « **Reply #245 on:** October 10, 2004, 09:45:14 am »

Quote from: Witchboard on October 09, 2004, 10:36:37 pm

Quote from: KrawDaddy on October 09, 2004, 09:07:54 pm
-I am going to drill pilot holes and use socket cap wood screws to mount the joysticks...Anybody have problems with this?

Just curious, but why wouldn't you use tee-nuts? Especially if you're going to laminate it. You won't have to worry about stripping the wood out or some body tearing your joysticks loose.

Ahh...sorry, I was confused on what t-nuts where. I think I will try them. Iam going to recess the wood with the router and place tape over them so there will be no contact cement in the threads. Sound right?

What size machine screw do you guys use? 10-32 8-32...?

Witchboard · « **Reply #246 on:** October 10, 2004, 09:46:11 am »

You wouldn't need to bore through your laminate, they would be mounted under it just like your trackball mounting plate. Pretty much everything froggerman said.

pocketbikez · « **Reply #247 on:** October 10, 2004, 01:03:57 pm »

what are those L shaped cutouts right above the 1st and 2nd player controls?

froggerman · « **Reply #248 on:** October 10, 2004, 01:47:24 pm »

Quote from: KrawDaddy on October 10, 2004, 09:45:14 am

Quote from: Witchboard on October 09, 2004, 10:36:37 pm
Quote from: KrawDaddy on October 09, 2004, 09:07:54 pm
-I am going to drill pilot holes and use socket cap wood screws to mount the joysticks...Anybody have problems with this?

Just curious, but why wouldn't you use tee-nuts? Especially if you're going to laminate it. You won't have to worry about stripping the wood out or some body tearing your joysticks loose.

Ahh...sorry, I was confused on what t-nuts where. I think I will try them. Iam going to recess the wood with the router and place tape over them so there will be no contact cement in the threads. Sound right?

What size machine screw do you guys use? 10-32 8-32...?

Yes this sounds right, but I use a Forstner bit to countersink the t-nuts. but it is the same idea. I think 10-32 is a good size to use, just make sure they fit through the holes in your controls.

KrawDaddy · « **Reply #249 on:** October 10, 2004, 03:04:47 pm »

Hand holes for pinball buttons that will be mounted undernieth

-I'am using 10-24

KrawDaddy · « **Reply #250 on:** October 10, 2004, 04:05:03 pm »

Ack! how tedious!

CP ready for finish!

KrawDaddy · « **Reply #251 on:** October 10, 2004, 04:05:34 pm »

KrawDaddy · « **Reply #252 on:** October 10, 2004, 04:06:19 pm »

They are extremely excited!

Now to build the Pinball button walls

AGGIEZ · « **Reply #253 on:** October 10, 2004, 11:28:30 pm »

I can't believe how freaking big that thing is!

Will · « **Reply #254 on:** October 11, 2004, 01:53:05 am »

Krawdaddy I have followed your progress from the start and the final product is looking awesome.That is a Monster of a cabinet and looks like it could take two giants playing streetfighter 2 to budge that thing.How much does that thing way 400lbs?Cant wait to see your cp finished it looks very well planned.

froggerman · « **Reply #255 on:** October 11, 2004, 02:18:54 am »

I am really looking forward to seeing your pinball buttons. I want to see how wide apart you set them and if you use the glass lock-down. This think is really coming together!

KrawDaddy · « **Reply #256 on:** October 11, 2004, 07:36:36 am »

The buttons are exactly 21.25" apart. Kevin steele from retroblast measured his machine. The buttons will be properly placed to.

Witchboard · « **Reply #257 on:** October 11, 2004, 08:36:46 am »

Quote from: KrawDaddy on October 10, 2004, 04:06:19 pm

They are extremely excited!

Now to build the Pinball button walls

Can you blame them? This is going to be an awsome cab when complete. What's the joy on the upper right hand corner? From the mounting holes I'm guessing a 45 degree 4 way for Q*bert.

froggerman · « **Reply #258 on:** October 11, 2004, 04:09:23 pm »

What angle are you using on your control panel?

KrawDaddy · « **Reply #259 on:** October 11, 2004, 05:31:37 pm »

-Yep its for qbert. I bought 2 betson 4way ball top joysticks with the long shafts for wood CP's.

-The CP is set at 4.5 degrees and the marquee is tilted in 4.5 degrees so there perpedicular to one another.

motorfish · « **Reply #260 on:** October 11, 2004, 07:46:46 pm »

KrawDaddy:

Beautiful cabinet design you've got there! I was wondering if you currently had anybody lined up to do graphics for the CP overlay? If not, I'd love to take a crack at it.

- Dan

KrawDaddy · « **Reply #261 on:** October 11, 2004, 07:56:10 pm »

Actually Ive got a BYOAC who is working on the marquee who requested to be anonymous. I may have him work on other portions of the graphics. This spring Iam going to start on a new slimmer version of this cab. However, this time Iam going to build the CP around the overlay. So the rest of the graphics of this cab will likely be aftermarket Mame graphics. This winter If your interested I may ask you to help me with my newer design graphics since I want them printed and in hand before this spring.

KrawDaddy · « **Reply #262 on:** October 12, 2004, 12:28:25 am »

T-nuts are installed...Thanks for the ideas!

wood is sealed on bottom ready for formica.

MiKman · « **Reply #263 on:** October 12, 2004, 01:25:05 pm »

wow really coming along. What are the two L- shaped cutouts for? I assume they are to attach the pinball stuff to, but how exactly do you plan on doing that? Can't wait to see it finished.

DYNAGOD · « **Reply #264 on:** October 12, 2004, 01:41:57 pm »

sweet

Witchboard · « **Reply #265 on:** October 12, 2004, 03:30:06 pm »

I can't remember if this was hit on already, but I just noticed your player 3 & 4 joys are angled. A lot of people suggest that they be set to true up, like 1 & 2. I guess if you haven't moved beyond this point you could always just run some extra holes and tee-nuts and decide which you like better. Since they will be under your laminate you could just use the ones you liked and not the others.

Just thought I would throw that out there. I wasn't sure how permanent your overlay was going to be, but if you were going to finish it like the rest of the cab, just thought it may save some trouble in case you didn't care for it the other way.

Looking forward to seeing this finished.

SNAAKE · « **Reply #266 on:** October 12, 2004, 06:47:16 pm »

Whats the size for the marquee again ?

I got my cable back online.I can try to put something together. Will be using all vector files and make a background from scratch or something.

KrawDaddy · « **Reply #267 on:** October 12, 2004, 10:27:07 pm »

$:-\$

Almost done.

RetroJames · « **Reply #268 on:** October 12, 2004, 10:43:32 pm »

Wow

I JUST read through this thread. I echo and double all of the compliments you have recieved so far.

Just brilliant.

How is it that no one is talking about the L-shaped cutouts though? That detail just blew my mind. Did you see this somewhere or is that your idea? I cannot wait to see that with the lockdown bar corners. Do you have both the horizontal and vertical pieces?

You might have room to put a mini marquee between those two cutouts that had some type of pinball art on it with glass over it. Your thumbs would never know the difference. Maybe it would only light up when your hands were in the slots. That would be sick!

Really, just awesome man.

KrawDaddy · « **Reply #269 on:** October 12, 2004, 10:47:38 pm »

Well thanks

Iam just putting the lockdown bar on for now, Its my first cab and iam excited to get it done. Those are great ideas for my next version though.

-BTW With this design I hope to have unlimited access to the trackball do anythin cross in front of it may be a hinderance. Maybe theres a way to get all in there...playfield glass too..

Oh ya I havent seen the pinball handholes before but somebody else may have.

Kind Regards\
Ben

RetroJames · « **Reply #270 on:** October 12, 2004, 10:58:25 pm »

Quote from: KrawDaddy on October 12, 2004, 10:47:38 pm

Well thanks

Iam just putting the lockdown bar on for now, Its my first cab and iam excited to get it done. Those are great ideas for my next version though.

-BTW With this design I hope to have unlimited access to the trackball do anythin cross in front of it may be a hinderance. Maybe theres a way to get all in there...playfield glass too..

Oh ya I havent seen the pinball handholes before but somebody else may have.

Kind Regards\
Ben

If you were to do it I think you would need to have routed out 1/4" deep square between the two openings so the artwork and glass could drop in and be flush with the surface to allow the trackball clearance. That would be too many steps back though.

I am really amazed at the entire design, quality of work, choices in materials and hardware. My jaw is still on the deck over the pinball controllers. You can bet you are gonna see more of that.

RetroJames · « **Reply #271 on:** October 12, 2004, 11:00:38 pm »

I almost forgot. The whole way through the first half of the thread I kept saying to myself..."Boat in the Basement." No way is that thing going in the front door...

I see it is out of the garage and in the house, is the cab actually small enough or do you have double doors somewhere?

KrawDaddy · « **Reply #272 on:** October 12, 2004, 11:15:44 pm »

I broke the cab down and carried all the parts in the house and up a stair well (except for the base-girlfriend helped) and put it back together in 13 min.

Brokedown the cab will easily fit through a 30" door.

\kraw

froggerman · « **Reply #273 on:** October 13, 2004, 12:21:56 am »

Quote from: 1hookedspacecadet on October 12, 2004, 10:43:32 pm

How is it that no one is talking about the L-shaped cutouts though? That detail just blew my mind. Did you see this somewhere or is that your idea? I cannot wait to see that with the lockdown bar corners. Do you have both the horizontal and vertical pieces?

I had no idea that is what the L-shaped cutouts were for. I can hardly wait to see it with the lockdown bar.

Great work.

Will · « **Reply #274 on:** October 13, 2004, 02:07:15 am »

after you put the laminate on how did you cut the holes so perfectly?

Mameotron · « **Reply #275 on:** October 13, 2004, 02:20:14 am »

Not trying to speak for KrawDaddy, but here is one way of doing it.

Use a flush cut laminate router bit. In the picture, the roller bearing rides along the wood (yellow) and cuts a perfect copy on the laminate (black).

It does cut an exact copy, so your original holes need to be really good. Of course, everything KrawDaddy does looks to be really good!!

patrickl · « **Reply #276 on:** October 14, 2004, 04:08:16 pm »

Wow I love those pinball holes. I'm designing a removable CP where the pinball buttons would be inside too (sort of). The idea is to also incorporate a tilt sensor (the part with the buttons should be able to move around a bit and sense motion). Basically like the pinball controllers you can buy for your PC.

I'm also going for a pinball plunger. Are you using a plunger too? There were some threads earlier on how to hook that up.

KrawDaddy · « **Reply #277 on:** October 14, 2004, 06:16:54 pm »

Whooo Hoo it fits perfect!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

what a relief.

Cameras a little dirty.

Iam going to mask off the circular area over the monitor and spray paint the underside black to hide all wood areas.

KrawDaddy · « **Reply #278 on:** October 14, 2004, 06:17:30 pm »

heres how the back worked out.

Witchboard · « **Reply #279 on:** October 14, 2004, 11:02:46 pm »

Fits like a glove. ^_^ Good work.


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Author Topic: The Gold Mine (Read 98736 times)

Mameotron