Its DONE! (almost) new pics enclosed

[steve_pss]

Hey all. I wanted to start fresh and unclutter the old thread with some new pics. Hope you like.

[steve_pss]

another..

[steve_pss]

One more..

[steve_pss]

Now with the vinyl coverings fully installed, function buttons installed, sealed, sanded, marque retainer in and ready to mask off and finish!

[steve_pss]

one more

[menace]

looks pretty solid--judging by the skeletons in the back ground, you've decided to make a few i guess?

[steve_pss]

Actually yes. That's the original side we made with jig saw and liberal sanding. With the router and big ass pattern cutting bit we can whip the cab sides out in about 10 minutes a side now.

[Minwah]

Looks great!

Are you going to roll-on paint to the sides?  If so could you give me any advice for paint/rollers etc., I have been having a nightmare painting mine to the extent that I just about gave up over the past few weeks    My poor technique I'm sure but any tips would be great!

[Lance]

Looks great!

Are you going to roll-on paint to the sides?  If so could you give me any advice for paint/rollers etc., I have been having a nightmare painting mine to the extent that I just about gave up over the past few weeks    My poor technique I'm sure but any tips would be great!

Two words, FOAM ROLLER.  

A foam foam roller will make painting the sides a breeze, don't load up the roller with a ton of paint and put on 3-5 coats.   In between each coat (after it has dried) lightly sand the sides to knock off any dust that has settled in the paint.  I used 400 grit, you just want to lightly sand it to get it smooth, not enough to bite into the paint.  Also I recommend Alkyd exterior paint with the proper primer as well, it is an extremely durable finish, but has a LONG drying time (16hrs) per coat.

Pics of my cab are at http://arcade.spamrevenge.com/mame

lance

[steve_pss]

This is going to sound a bit odd but with some prep work i've had some good results with spray paint. In terms of how it goes like this:

1. Good good paint. The cheap stuff just aint worth it. The cheapest i've had work well is Ace hardware premium (comes with a nice fan tip too).
2. Get those goofy trigger things for the can. Easy on the finger and prevents drips to some extent.
3. MDF being wicked thirsty you need to seal and sand. After a couple different products my buddy hipped me to using shellac. Seals like nobodys business and takes just about any paint you can throw on it.
4. The real trick (IMHO) to avoid spottiness is to get a very even coat on each application. You need to get the wet down paint down evenly quickly before areas start to dry. For big pieces like the sides I enlist a friend.
5. It seems contrary to everything i've been told but to get a real uniform non-spotty (pro) look I've always had to spray a spotty base coat then lay it down heavy, wet and fast for the finish coat. Comes out rather quite nice once dry.
6. GO SOX!!

[Minwah]

Thanks for the tips guys  I have been using a fine foam roller but I think part of the problem is that it is tiny!  The only bigger ones I've found are either coarse foam or fluffy stuff - are the coarse foam ones ok?

[Stingray]

5. It seems contrary to everything i've been told but to get a real uniform non-spotty (pro) look I've always had to spray a spotty base coat then lay it down heavy, wet and fast for the finish coat. Comes out rather quite nice once dry.

Actually that's pretty much how it's done when spraying enamel with a paint gun and compressor. First coats go on somewhat dry and the top coat goes on heavier and wet. The trick of course lies in knowing how wet is wet enough. Too wet and it's droop, sag, and run city.

-S

[steve_pss]

agreed, i actually lay the sides down to prevent runs.

[Zakk]

Oddly enough, I used to lay things down to prevent runs, but now I do things on their side if possible, so that I don't apply too much spray.  Makes for a -much- cleaner finish if the layers are thin and uniform.  Not to say I don't get runs if I get sloppy, but I always figured that guys that paint cars can't just flip the cars over, and they can get a nice finish.

[greven grevs]

I did auto body repair for 2 years while in high school and the best tip I was ever given was to paint from bottom to top. This way if you get a run it will run into drier paint and slow/stop the run. If you go from tob to bottom will be adding more wet paint for the run to 'run' into , causing it to be longer that it needs to be.

[Arcadiac]

Minwah, If you are going to roll on the paint:

1. Unless the cab is really rough, use fine paper just to rough up the old finish so the primers will stick to it.  Wipe/wash off the sanding dust.
2. The shorter nap/finer rollers give the best finish. don't go cheap, it will cost later in redoing the botched job!
3. Use a good primer.

I sanded, used Kilz2, 2 coats over glossy black paint and then put 3 coats of Behr Premium Gloss Latex Interior.
Results are hard to tell in my photos but I ended up with a finish that looked pretty good to me.  See this thread:
http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=10;action=display;threadid=17788

Hope this helps!  ARCADIAC!

[steve_pss]

Edit for very good reason..

[Minwah]

Minwah, important advice:
1: When you roll up, make sure the ho aint working anyone cheap looking. If she is, let her feel it.
2. Once you get her attention be like "listen biznitch, you best DAMN have my money!"
3. If she don't have your money you gots to be like "BI*CH! WHERE THE F**K IS MY GRAVY!?"
4. Remember...Rain no sleet no sunny, your bi*ch better have your money.

Thats just my 2 cents.

I thought we had some pretty good weed here in England - you must have the strongest stuff on the planet!  

Seriously thanks for the tips (& sorry for the thread hijack steve).  I brought my cab home today and I'm going to let my dad have a go at painting it, he used to be a painter & decorator and is pretty handy in that department

[steve_pss]

No prob man! I finally (just about) finished the beast tonight.  Gonna post some completed pics tomorrow.

[steve_pss]

Finally. Wish my cam didn't suck as this thing looks great in person! Artwork for sides and marque and a few teaks left to do.

[steve_pss]

and..

[froggerman]

Cabinet look great! What type of artwork are going to use?

[steve_pss]

I'm working on the artwork now. All original, simple, retro.

[Minwah]

Well done, it looks great

You've done in about a week what has taken me months  

[steve_pss]

Any chance I can include a "Interface Powered by Mamewah" in the right hand corner of the Marquee?

[stuzza]

Fantastic looking cabinet!  Well done.   I'm glad to see you've kept the colour scheme simple and classy, makes it look really professional imo    Can't wait to see what artwork you come up with for this.

[steve_pss]

here's a cheap photoshop trick, i stuck the draft artwork for the marquee on the cab pic

[steve_pss]

And by way of yet more cheesy PS foolery i give you a terribly slapped on hunk of ill sized side art. Complete with lousy lighting filter to make it look semi realistic.

Next pics should have the real art on them!

[pathdoc2]

Looks killer.

[Minwah]

Any chance I can include a "Interface Powered by Mamewah" in the right hand corner of the Marquee?

Hehe, of course, as long as I don't have to do the image for you!...I'm struggling with my own artwork atm and I'd go as far as to say I hope I never have to do any graphics work again!

You Photoshop'd cab looks cool, it really gives you an idea what your finished cab will look like - what a difference artwork makes

[Yander]

Very nice cab, It always amazes me how much artwork can improve a cabinet.