Wells Gardner D9200 - Horizontal Collapse?

[Rocketeer2001]

Hey Shawn, thanks for the detailed explanation. I was so caught up just trying to get the EGA signal into a CGA signal that I totally neglected how this would affect the light gun.

Guess I'm back to trying to fix the D9200. I'll start by removing the power supply caps and testing them. Maybe one of them has gone bad despite being replaced already.

[lilshawn]

if you are going to gung ho it, disconnect the 190v rail from the SMPS power supply and load it with a bulb, (remove inductors or diodes on the output side of the main 190v and then connect a 60 watt INCANDECANT lightbulb between there and ground) if it doesn't light up, issue with SMPS or other low voltage SMPS circuits... if it does glow, move up the line... "cut" out the horizontal deflection (which also runs on 190v) and see if it powers on. if it does, issue is in deflection. if it does not power on now, issue is in HV/flyback.

remember we only want to run it for a few seconds at a time just to see if the power supply kicks on.

basically all we are doing is trying to isolate where the short is originating from.

alternatively, if you have a bench power supply capable of supplying a good few amps, you could just slam some power into the 190v into the circuit till whatever is shorted heats up (and you can ID it with a temp gun thermometer or IR camera) or blows up in a puff of smoke. not ideal and possibly kill something else at the same time, but it will reveal the culprit.

[Rocketeer2001]

Shawn, as discussed through PM's, I was ready to go gung-ho but then I came across another Big Buck Hunter 2 for sale. It was missing some parts, but what it did have is a different 27" trisync monitor; a Neotec NT-500DX. Per our discussion, it sounded like a more solidly engineered piece of tech and would be easier to fix. Yes, even this monitor was broken...

However, the cost for the whole cabinet (with basically spare parts for my arcade) was low, so I bought it! I've already begun dismantling it to fix the monitor, so the D9200 will be on hold for now. Just looking at the chassis board for the NT-500 is like a breath of fresh air. It's just so well organized and spaced out in comparison.

Anyone following this thread, I might be back to fix the D9200 if the Neotec fails me, but I don't see that happening. I'll report back in either case.

[Rocketeer2001]

One last thing I did before giving up on this monitor was adding a power LED.

I recall reading somewhere in a post that if you had a D9200 with a power indicator LED on it, if it lit up it meant your power section was up and running. I think...I can't find that post again, so someone else will have to confirm. I found on the schematics where the LED would have been, so I wired one in.

I drilled a 5mm hole in the large heat sink at the back of the board to mount a 5mm LED. That way you could see it easily when the board was in the arcade machine.
I ran a positive red wire to J029 and a negative black wire to J030.
I added a resistor to the LED to step down the voltage to 2.1v.

Tossed the board back in the machine and tested it out. It works! Not sure if this officially means my power section is good or at the very least that the 5v rail works. Anyways, maybe this is helpful for someone else with a D9200.

[Rocketeer2001]

I almost forgot to come back for my final report!

After poking around the Neotec for a few days (with some help from lilshawn) we determined I just needed some caps, so I replaced all of them and it fired right up! Much easier to fix than that stupid D9200.

I could finally finish my cabinet rebuild and now I'm spending hours killing imaginary deer.

Thanks to everyone that helped out!

[lilshawn]

 

[Austin Amusements]

We picked up a Big Buck Hunter and I am having the same issue as Rocketeer2001, horizontal collapse. Does anyone know of a replacement chassis?

[tiger1900]

Update: My D9200 that had horizontal collapse, lives again!

There were a few pieces of information I left out. Mine is the 33-inch model (same boards, parts and most measurements, though. just larger tube) and remembering more clearly, I recapped the entire board in 2015 by marking each capacitor and writing the values manually, not by using online lists or by schematic. I missed 4 because I wrote down the wrong values. I skipped replacing those because the originals tested fine. The monitor then went into storage without testing, until last year.

nearly 10 years later, I found my work succeeded... for a few days.

I'm the guy that over-tightened the transistor screw, causing it to arc to the heat sink when I innocently added new thermal compound, then ended up with generic transistors that didn't work. Well...

Thank you to @lilshawn for illustrating the schematic with an operational divide; it made me take a better approach at diagnosis.

Thank you @Rocketeer2001 your journey gave me stuff to try and think about. I look forward to adding a power LED to my arcade cabinet once I figure a good place to lead it outside the cabinet.

and for the information to use a FJL6920TU in place of the 2SC5144 (Q418), a part I was able to source from DigiKey, and not a rando-eBay sale.

And everyone here, helping and documenting information.

I had time tonight (since my last post) to make the repair. The cause of the collapse: Capacitor C417 Value 22uf 250v. One of 4 I missed years earlier. Testing it, the value was off and it had a high ESR rating.

After replacing the transistor (Q417), C417, and the other 3 caps I missed years earlier. The monitor click-clicked-ON!

If anyone needs multimeter measurements with parts in-board, I can get them to you. Hopefully assisting your repair. It may be a month before I have time to put this back in the cabinet, so access for me is easy.

Oh, and thank you to YouTube "Mike's Amateur Arcade Monitor Repair"... the timing of the video where you mentioned to deburr and snug the transistor's screw on one of your videos... that happened to come out after my previous post; I like to imagine my mistake inspired that helpful hint.

Next step, before putting this back in the cabinet, is try the Sega Dreamcast with its light-gun with this beast!

Image Notes:
Pics of new cap, pic of old/original cap, bad ESR reading for that cap, some tube glow, VGA signal for a 25y/o XP computer I could have never imagined honestly entering "2025" into the bios screen, Nokia Monitor Test - great PC CRT monitor calibration software, catching up on Ren and Stimpy via DVD.

Thanks everyone, let me know if I can be of any help.

[lilshawn]

What are your feelings about the Wells Gardner D9000 series of monitors Mr. Horse?

...

No sir, I didn't like it