Need help identifying chassis type for capkit

[piscian18]

Continuing work on my CPS2 cabinet..

The tube type is a 25" Tube is a Hitachi A63LAT80X powering a Nightwarriors CPS2 cart. The tube is showing very dark bluish coloring with what I would describe as rippling image. image if the screen were on water and you threw a rock in it, that image wavering would look like it. It would look great if it didn't cause sea sickness.

I've tested the voltage on the switched PSU which seems solid. I'm at the point where a recap seems unavoidable. Not sure where to start as my chassis doesn't exactly match anything online though some have been close. Attaching pics hoping someone can direct me on the fix or cap kit.

To really show the rippling I think I'd need to post a video but I'll try and get a pic. attaching video of rippling affect https://imgur.com/a/Hbpgv9y

[lilshawn]

looks like an early Wei-ya or maybe rodotron knockoff. very similar to the pentranic CH-281 (1421 or later 2400 series) but not quite. maybe early version CH-281 or E38 chassis. really hard to tell.

I doubt you'll find a ready made cap kit for it. you may have to just inventory the capacitors and buy them separately from mouser or digikey or whatever.

your screen control looks like it's up way too high and out of focus... if it's too dim after turning it down getting rid of the overscan lines, you may have to crank up the RGB color drives to get some oomph out of it. If still crappy pic... the tube might be weak and need to be blasted with a rejuvenator.

[opt2not]

Looks like a Wei Ya Universal replacement chassis, looks similar to a M1029HR.

Jomac site has one that looks similar but labeled Glendale/Eygo 728, this could be the Wei Ya replacement of that chassis.



Hard to say.

[piscian18]

Thanks, my bad I sorta glossed over the Universal Chassis because all the images I saw online had the control knobs on the chassis where as all mine are on a external front mountable board. Looking at it now I see that it's nearly identical, infact Classicgameroom has one with the front mount board as well https://www.classicgamerooms.com/arcade-parts/monitors/universal-monitor-chassis-25-inch-detail.html

I think I'll just go with that rather than screw with a recap. I have to reconnect everything so I can verify my ohms so I'll try tuning down the screen/brightness and pushing the RGB up, but I don't think that'll fix the ripple in my image which sounds like a bad cap/filter cap. A recap would be a lot more enticing if I were more competent at soldering. Im just not one of those guys who can recap a whole board in an hour. Maybe I can come back to this board later and keep it around as a spare.

[opt2not]

Just FYI, the “R” at the end of those Wei Ya model #’s designate Remote Board versions. So if you’re doing a search, there are the non-remote board versions under the same models as well, just without the R.

[piscian18]

*update*

looks like an early Wei-ya or maybe rodotron knockoff. very similar to the pentranic CH-281 (1421 or later 2400 series) but not quite. maybe early version CH-281 or E38 chassis. really hard to tell.

I doubt you'll find a ready made cap kit for it. you may have to just inventory the capacitors and buy them separately from mouser or digikey or whatever.

your screen control looks like it's up way too high and out of focus... if it's too dim after turning it down getting rid of the overscan lines, you may have to crank up the RGB color drives to get some oomph out of it. If still crappy pic... the tube might be weak and need to be blasted with a rejuvenator.

Just FYI, the “R” at the end of those Wei Ya model #’s designate Remote Board versions. So if you’re doing a search, there are the non-remote board versions under the same models as well, just without the R.

Short answer yes, Long answer also yes. Correct on both counts.

I did swap out the chassis with zero issues though I'm a little irked because classicgamerooms has a picture up for THE "R" but when I opened it up, its the cheapy non-r you see all over ebay, additionally the plastic frame was busted. I haven't decided whether I wanna pick a fight over it. I dont like being that guy and it works fine.

However shawn was correct I think. even with the screen set to maximum for "bright lights" pictures still dim while everything else looks great. I'm in the mists of begging a gentlemen in denver to let me pay him to rejuv the monitor or let me use his gear. If that doesn't work out I'm stuck. Ive seen on youtube that you can swap a home crt with the an arcade fairly easily but then I see people screaming that its impossible and youll kill yourself trying...youtube is weird.

I'll take any advice at this point. I'm also not sure what the forum etiquette is on whether I should close this thread and open a new one to ask about rejuvenation or replacement ideas.