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Author Topic: Chasis identify by pix  (Read 3253 times)

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TheMythTheLegend

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Chasis identify by pix
« on: December 13, 2016, 10:20:18 am »
Ok I did the good thing and went through pages of searches and found squat. Went to the monitor id page.... And did not see it.

I need help identifying the chasis for this monitor a zenith 25" tube. It is in a dynamo hs-5 cabinet. And the screen is kinda fuzzy faded not bright. The circuit boarss are kinda getting toasty by the caps. So I assume cap kit is needed.

This is my second cabinet the guy said it just died one day and he just let it sit in his garage for the past 4 years.

  https://m.imgur.com/a/N6wVZ


It is working now.... May sell the simpsons and control and marquee so i can convert the cab...
« Last Edit: December 13, 2016, 10:24:22 am by TheMythTheLegend »

Ken Layton

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Re: Chasis identify by pix
« Reply #1 on: December 13, 2016, 11:03:54 pm »
It's a Neo Tec. Not certain of the model, but it could be a NT-2515C:

http://www.medi-gmbh.com/images/Chassis/maxi/neotec_nt2515c.jpg

Or maybe an NT-2501:

http://www.medi-gmbh.com/images/Chassis/maxi/neotec%20NT2501.jpg

This website has good monitor ID pictures:

http://www.medi-gmbh.com/reparaturen2f.html

TheMythTheLegend

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Re: Chasis identify by pix
« Reply #2 on: December 14, 2016, 12:28:54 am »
Thank you every bit of info helps

lilshawn

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Re: Chasis identify by pix
« Reply #3 on: December 14, 2016, 11:22:00 am »
looks like a CH-288 chassis it's also known as a pentranic 1425 / 1432 or even a makvision 1425/ 2425. even so far as just calling it "The 2400 series" it's a Wei ya made a universal chassis of sorts called the CH-288 and a pile of manufacturers used them who called it... whatever.

for sure, this is a NT-2515

toasty looking board is pretty par for the course for this type of circuit board. The phenolic material the board is made of discolors quite easily.

if the picture size is good and not folding over or anything, i'd just leave it. you can end up killing things off if you start messing with the caps. there are a pile of undocumented tweaks and fixes for this series of board.

for your picture... try turning down the brightness and just tweaking up the screen control on the flyback a tiny bit to bring the brightness back. you may also have to tweak the focus. these flybacks sometimes drift a bit.

the tubes are often have misaligned convergence in the corners so the center will look sharp, but the edges can look fuzzy. it's a pain to fix and easier to live with it. as often trying to fix it screws EVERYTHING up on the picture.
« Last Edit: December 14, 2016, 11:35:26 am by lilshawn »

TheMythTheLegend

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Re: Chasis identify by pix
« Reply #4 on: December 15, 2016, 05:32:37 pm »
Lilshawn. Is there another thread on adjusting My noob ass missed by chance?  Thanks for the id.

Local tv repair shop turned me down for any aervice. Said buy a new monitor lol

lilshawn

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Re: Chasis identify by pix
« Reply #5 on: December 16, 2016, 11:48:01 am »
I took some high res pictures of the manual. I'll upload them when I get the chance. Not much neotec stuff out there. most of the monitors came with a manual.

As far as adjustments go, it's pretty standard stuff.

check your brightness and see if it's cranked up. if it's cranked and it's still not bright (or you turn up the brightness and the blacks just go gray instead) try turning up the "screen" control on the flyback a tiny bit. just a hair. this will increase the high voltage and draw more electrons from the guns to the screen phosphor. but don't go so high that you start turning the black gray.

if the color is better you can tweak the focus adjustment on the flyback to sharpen the image.

be warned though, this is a 20 year old tube TV...not an LCD or plasma display. it's not going to be real sharp or going to be really bright. your eyes have been sullied by super high resolution modern displays.

if you can't get any additional color brightness and instead the picture just washes out in gray and white, you may have to crank up the color "drive" on the neckboard. this is best done with a gradient pattern so you can evenly turn them up.

this neck board has drive and cathode voltage adjustments. I would adjust the cathodes up first and see where that gets you. make sure you get them evenly adjusted...otherwise your colors won't mix proper and they will look off. an RGB gradient is best for this because if you can match the gradients together, they will mix properly.



you can see in this other thread i commented in, that (aside from the red not working), the green and blue are not the same length. this would cause the whites to have a green tint to them.