Reboot: First Timer: Galaga Reproduction

[CaptainTweed]

Decided to build a Multicade after visiting an auction and not loving the options available. The goal was sub $500, by scavenging parts. First up, a cabinetbuilder friend with a CNC router thought the project was cool (he's right) and agreed to cut my pieces from 3/4 ply. We used Jakobud's and classicarcadecabinets.com plans. No charge for work or materials.





Decided to add a volume knob next to speaker.

And blocks so I can wedge in the light so its easy to pull out if I need to get behind it.


Cabinetbuilder used pocket screws instead of routing out grooves for connections. Worked great.


Next up: painting.

[CaptainTweed]

Guy at Lowe's pointed me to this. It's deep black enamel. Premixed at factory.


Decided to paint all pieces before assembly: Kilz then the enamel.


All assembly was done on a bench which made it easier.


Assembly complete


Next up: the monitor and wiring.

[behrmr]

Sure to be nicer than the original cabinets made from particle board (why there aren't many around anymore).  Looks great but I personally would've gone with an oil based paint. Good luck and keep the pics coming.

[CaptainTweed]

A lot of wiring was done after reading Bob Roberts instructions on it.

Started all the wiring by mapping out most efficient routes with tape.



Got a free Dell 19" LCD hoping the screen would resize properly. It did. Pulled the Dell bezel off and moved the power buttons to face down so I can reach from coin door. The monitor support drawing from the classicarcadecabinets CAD file was perfect for the Dell.




Testing the plastic bezel on the Dell. Perfect.


Got a power distribution block and QD connectors from Bob Roberts, after reading some posts warning of wiring other stuff to the SPS.



Mounted the board and the Toodles SLG to a scrap so its easy to remove. In the cabinet, I added a strip for the whole thing to rest on then screwed in only the top. I also built a shelf for the SPS and PDB so its off the bottom,  closer to the circuit board and visible from the coin door.




All wires ID'd and secured ... really for the person (maybe one of my kids) who gets the Multicade next.



Next: Coin door and graphics.

[Shortbus]

Great looking build and craftsmanship!!! Will be following, keep the pictures coming!

[CaptainTweed]

Agreed on the paint. But I don't have a good place to clean up with chemicals.

So the project goes on hold while I search for a coin door. Thought about a generic access door, or a new coin door from someplace like Twisted Quarter. But I just can't do it. I want it to look period accurate. After a WTB post, a KLOV member hooks me up with this.



Ok, ok. So the plastic chutes aren't entirely accurate but I can't pass on the condition. Better than I thought. I decide to only de-rust and paint the coin returns.




On the back, after trying or nearly trying several ideas, I settle on four magnetic catches to hold on the access door. It's quite ideal for HUO.


I test out all controls on the CP. I'm not loving the 2" trackball decision. I didn't want the CP crowded. But I didn't know how much I enjoy Centipede.

[CaptainTweed]

I get a local printer to print all graphics. Gratis. They too thought the project was fun and cool. (They, too, were right). They turned out awesome.

Here are the decals I had printed from someone's Illustrator file on arcadeart (thank you!) on a green felt table that's taking up valuable video arcade and pinball space. But, hey, it was free. (I like free.)



Found a good PDF of the bezel art. Printer printed (bezel and marquee) on plexi! Yowza!


Wet mount for decals after viewing a very helpful YT video. I did dry on the CP, wishing half way through it I had done wet mount. But Xacto knife and thumbnail, I worked out the dozen or so bubbles. Note: The CPO is a custom design I did after getting the Illustrator file from arcadeart. I wanted it to look close to the original. Added arrows around the trackball but keep instruction images (smaller) in same location and the aliens on the front.



T-molding. Leather texture black. Of course.


Marquee was last thing. Finished. Sort of.

[CaptainTweed]

What I learned and what I'd do differently.

1. I should have bought Saint's book when I started, not halfway through it. And read more from Bob Roberts before I started.
2. I should have gone with a 2 1/4" trackball. More options for replacement, upgrades.
3. Most of the controls that came in the 60 in 1 kit could be better. I started wanting low cost but as I progressed I wanted quality and authentic feel.
4. Soon I will likely be getting a leaf switch joystick like the Pac Pro, or a Wico 4 way. I don't like the kit one.
5. Soon I will likely be getting the best microswitches I can, for the buttons.
6. The front kick panel turned out about three inches short. That was my fault for adjusting the CAD drawing thinking it wasn't designed to fit my precut metal panel from Holland Computers.
7. I'm keeping my eyes out for an ArcadeSD.

So the goal was $500, but I ended up closer to $650. Free: CNC cut cabinet parts. Monitor. Monitor cables. Graphics.
The T-SLG and coin door added about $100. And I didn't plan for stuff like the power distribution block, QD connectors, wire clamps, etc. Plus all the shipping which never was factored into cost. 

This all came about because my wife said "one pinball machine" so I asked about a Multicade with her beloved Pac Man. She agreed. Once I had it all hooked up, I got her to play a round of Pac Man. After about 6 moves, she says, "I don't like this joystick at all. It's not the same." And she walked away. So #4 above has become a priority.

I'm already thinking about a multiplayer mame. Some sort of abandoned factory looking thing (inspired by Destiny environments). Time to start collecting stuff.

[n3wt0n]

Nice looking build and documentation!

[emphatic]

Classy build. Especially the internals. 

[behrmr]

Your build looks great.  On your wife's comments, I assume you have an 8-way stick which is something a lot of people do on multi's which is a huge mistake.  You're better off with a 4-way and then turning off 8-way games, or playing the 8-way games, and then deciding if it's OK to leave turned on or off based on your experience.  However, be prepared for the same comments once you swap in a Wico or Pac Pro (Pac Pro is a great stick BTW).  The display lag with an LCD can make maze games like Pac-man very frustrating, and the joystick seems to take the blame.  I had a very similar experience with a 60-in-1 I built for my sister, who is a Ms. Pac fanatic.  It has a 4-way leaf stick.  She immediately hated the joystick.  But in reality it was input lag plus added display lag.  When it was all said and done I wound up building a MAME computer and replacing the 60-in-1 and she was much happier. 

[CaptainTweed]

It's a 4/8 switchable. I think I have on 4. Hmmm. Maybe not. I should double check. The throws on it seem pretty big. Good to know about the delays. Didn't think about it. Thanks for the tip. Well, I have a Dell W7 tower sitting there waiting for a mame cabinet. Maybe this is a good reason to build ANOTHER one. Hmmmm. Hold on ... I need to go talk to my wife. ...

[CaptainTweed]

Classy build. Especially the internals. 

Reminds me of Steve Jobs quote from biography where he's upset about messy wiring inside the Mac. Engineer says "no one will know" and he replied "I'll know."  Thanks for kind words all.