Need Help Identifying Monitor - First Attempt at Cap Kit'ing

[P.H.U.]

Monitor is from an MK2 cab. MK2 board has been removed and replaced with Ergheiz. Everything else is likely original, I am hoping that is the case for the monitor. Good brightness and color on the monitor. But getting focus and maintaining v-hold and geometry dimensions seems tough. I wish to cap kit this monitor and it will be my first ever attempt at doing so.

Please help identify the monitor so I can pick up the right cap kit. Hard to take pics inside the cab, so let me know if other pictures are required.

[grantspain]

that is a wells gardner k7000 series monitor-one of the most common monitors ever released

focus has nothing to do with caps btw,it would be more likely the flyback or the crt socket or the tube

[P.H.U.]

Thanks for the confirmation grant. I felt it was as well, but wasn't sure. Novice at these things. Let me take a pic of what the monitor is doing. Hopefully, you can let me know what course of action to take.

[DudeRegular]

That is a good monitor to have for your first repair. There aren't too many caps and most are not tough to get to. Just take your time and make sure you get the polarity right. There is a guy on klov/ebay that has pretty good cap kits. I just used his kit to cap a k7000. Or go to bob roberts and get the deluxe kit that has all the caps and a flyback for a decent price.

[P.H.U.]

I take that back about the focus. Focus looks good. Here is what the monitor is doing:

• H-pos pot does nothing. Monitor is shifted left. How do I fix this? Replace the pot, or is there another place to adjust this on the chassis?
• Upon start up, static charge up sound is heard
• Also upon start up, often the picture is never stable. Sort of hit or miss and requires pot adjustments to get a picture. Sometimes a pot adjustments do nothing.

Good candidate for a cap kit job?

[DudeRegular]

Yep. Cap it and see where you are after that. It will likely fix up the issues you are having. Also the static means its working. When you don't get that you usually have worse problems.

[P.H.U.]

That is a good monitor to have for your first repair. There aren't too many caps and most are not tough to get to. Just take your time and make sure you get the polarity right. There is a guy on klov/ebay that has pretty good cap kits. I just used his kit to cap a k7000. Or go to bob roberts and get the deluxe kit that has all the caps and a flyback for a decent price.

Thanks man. Trying to save these babies. I got 4 cabs. 3 of them have monitor issues. One cab is just needs a new CP. This last one that just needs a CP; since it is a non-distinct cab, I am going to give it the MAME/HyperSpin treatment, sell it to fund repairs for the others.

PM'ed you.

[DudeRegular]

Right on man. I was in the same boat. The first few machines I bought were all having monitor issues. Fingers crossed, but everything minus my bartop still has tube in it. KLOV has a ton of great info on monitors as well.

[P.H.U.]

Ok, 2nd monitor to identify. I think this might be the same. If I recall correctly, the guy that sold me the cabs said he had techs look at his cabs. He said the techs pulled the chassis off a working cab (Blitz 2K Gold) and put it into the MK2 cab above.

WG 7000 Series as well?

[DudeRegular]

Yep. See the number on that sticker, it has k7191. thats where the K7000 comes from.

[P.H.U.]

Here is what the MK2 cab is doing. I cannot get vertical size correct. There is too much overscan on the top and bottom. The V-hold pot works. But the V-size pot does not work well. Contrast and Brightness pots seem to work ok. Also as you can see, it is horizontally shifted left. The H-pots on the remote board do nothing.

Any thoughts?

EDIT:  Saved myself some pain and picked up a new P802 from arcadecup.com. Hopefully, it's just an issue with the pots on the remote board. Placed the order with Bob Roberts for the K7000 Flyback & Cap Kit. Further update when that good stuff gets here.

[Alaska]

I just used Chad over at arcadecup.com to recondition my WG manufactured by Zenith k7000a chassis. He did a fantastic job and now offers an expedited turnaround time (2 weeks). The chassis you have looks nearly identical to mine, minus the funky flyback on the k7000a. Good luck!

[P.H.U.]

The remote board from arcadecup.com came in no time. Popped it in, flipped on the monitor, and went right for the H-Pos adjustment. The image inched over to right!  The V-hold stuck. And after flipping it off and turning it back on after a while, it held position! Looks like it is a repeatable stable image. Woooooooooooooooooooooooo..........Hoooooooooooooooooo!!!

As I was messing with the monitor trying to get it to work, fiddling with pots on the neck board that I didn't know would adjust what, I ended up screwing up the RGB cutoff and gains settings. That is going to suck to set. Aside from that, the image looks good but is not without problems. The edges are not straight. There are some horizontal waves. The image does not fill the monitor. But hey, progress!

Going to fashion a discharge tool out of a machete and get to doing the cap kit that came from Bob Roberts. Here are some pics.

[P.H.U.]

Oh, and I scored a free SFII Dynamo cab. It doesn't turn on right now, but I think it is an easy fix. Looks like cables are disconnected off the ISO. Now I have 5 cabs to work on. :/

[DudeRegular]

Nice! And good luck with all those projects. It can get overwhelming. Just focus on the things you can work in with what you have on hand while waiting on the neverending stream of parts from all over the internet...