Another first timer post

[fryed_1]

Plays well, but there's some bottom combos that are activating OS features like alt-tab and such and interrupting the games.

Not sure what interface you are using, but it's best to ditch the first four default mame keys at the encoder level if you plan to run emulators other than mame.  The ipac can be reprogrammed.  On the key wiz, I just use different inputs and then use things like ALT for admin or coin buttons that won't be hit during play.  There are software workarounds, but it's easier to just start out with keys that don't cause problems. It only takes a minute to remap those four keys globally in mame.

I you only plan to run mame, then just disable hotkeys in windows. (Google it)

Currently I'm using linux+emulationstation with mame v0.164 I think.  Compiled to remove nag screens.  Wasn't planning on windows, but can test it out if it proves too buggy in it's current form.

[fryed_1]

So researching power options....

Laptop has the ability to wake from USB, so that would give the ability for it to remain closed and flip of a joystick, press a button, anything on the CP can wake the laptop or power it on.

I find this:  http://www.pwrusb.com/order/

Now that's intriguing, albeit expensive at $90-100.  Has an always-on outlet [laptop] and 3 switched outlets [monitor, amp, LED/lighting] that is triggered by software that runs when the laptop boots.  Anyone use anything like that?  Might talk to an EE buddy of mine because I don't think all the software-controlled stuff is really needed and only detect USB power and go from there to activate a normal power strip.

Goal being to avoid permanently hacking up an expensive laptop for this (in case I want to repurpose it later and put a more traditional gutted pc in it). 

[Yenome]

I dont see why you couldnt just get one of the smart power strips that do the same as that but not on a usb port. they have one plug that is the master and then 3 power sensing plugs, that get power only when the master port does. I would think you might be able to set the laptop to return to a power on state on getting power. and then use the switch on the power strip as your main switch. $20 dollar smart strip is better to tear into than the laptop. i have a smart strip as do a lot on this forum. most are set so pc power on provides power to tv,lights,speakers.

[fryed_1]

I just ordered the one above and will assign a shutdown button/combo.

With lots of younger kids who 1)  just hit switches randomly because it's a switch that needs to be flipped and 2)  will vindictively do things like power off the game to avoid losing, was more of a personal goal to make this work.  Anyways, the strip above has a software API that tells the strip to turn on when the laptop is powering up.  Same when it's powering down.  I have 5 extra white buttons, so plugged it in and assigned it to shut down the system and will put it in an inconspicuous place - likely out of reach of younger kids.

Rebuilt the machine with win7sp1 pro, stripped it down using the guide here and setup attractmode.  Only going to use mame games for now and I do see that attractmode supports servosticks and ledblinky and other things like that, plus simple and not as bloated as hyperspin.

Bought the soundsystem last night.  Went with a $20 18x2+36x1 2.1 DIY amp.



has sub, treble and master volume controls that should be easy to mount and place, plus not have to worry about generating a lot of heat.  Pyle in-wall 6.25" full range speakers will be placed up high.  I earmarked a pyle 6" sub, but haven't got it yet because I want to see how good these in-wall speakers work before I built that out.

Started cutting out a new CP last night and printing out the CP images mentioned earlier.  Will use those to scale to build it out and get the trackball setup.  Should have that done tonight.

Once the sound is in place, will get some laminate and tmolding and start the finishing work.

[fryed_1]

Battle testing.


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[fryed_1]

CP v2. Printed a couple different sizes out and went with whatever 55% of 300dpi is.

Dropped the play and pause.  R1 (player 1 red button 1) works good for start button from front end. Left escape and added a menu button since I would rather keep it keyboard free if there's a quick issue with controls.

Buttons have about 1/16 inch between bezels. Also added coin 2 button and enough room for the trackball. Both joysticks also have enough room for servos should I decide to add them at some point.


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[fryed_1]

CP v3 will include a new feature of not routing out the wrong side of the panel.


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[fryed_1]

I do like the button placement and layout better though.




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[harveybirdman]

What do Menu and Exit do?

is Menu the TAB button?

[fryed_1]

Menu is tab yes. Exit = escape


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[harveybirdman]

When it comes to MAME settings, I think it's better to set it and forget it... On the bright side, your spacing looks much better on this one.

[Token]

I like the revisions to your control panel. Much improved.

With lots of younger kids who 1)  just hit switches randomly because it's a switch that needs to be flipped and 2)  will vindictively do things like power off the game to avoid losing, was more of a personal goal to make this work. 

Menu is tab yes. Exit = escape

I recommend ditching the Menu button, especially given this will be used by children. They will screw up your control and video settings. If you don't already have one, pick up one of these for when you need to make admin changes.

[fryed_1]

I like the revisions to your control panel. Much improved.

With lots of younger kids who 1)  just hit switches randomly because it's a switch that needs to be flipped and 2)  will vindictively do things like power off the game to avoid losing, was more of a personal goal to make this work. 

Menu is tab yes. Exit = escape

I recommend ditching the Menu button, especially given this will be used by children. They will screw up your control and video settings. If you don't already have one, pick up one of these for when you need to make admin changes.

I have one of those I'm already using.  That's probably the best advise.  I could likely put a USB port in the back of the cabinet or under CP for easy access if needed so I don't have to move it, pull the back panel off, plug in and go back around.

[vwalbridge]

I recommend ditching the Menu button, especially given this will be used by children. They will screw up your control and video settings. If you don't already have one, pick up

Can't agree more with Token's opinion on the menu button. He is spot on. Trust me, if you cab is anywhere near someone under the age of 13, they WILL figure out a way to mess up your settings. A menu button is just a big fat invitation to do so.

I always recommend a wireless keyboard/touchpad combo for adjustments after the cab is built.

[fryed_1]

Hopefully the final version

.


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[Token]

[fryed_1]

My knuckles learned that you really need a longer runoff room with a trackball for some really competitive Golden Tee. Luckily only hit the wood and not the monitor.


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[Yenome]

My knuckles learned that you really need a longer runoff room with a trackball for some really competitive Golden Tee. Luckily only hit the wood and not the monitor.


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I agree The silver strike and golden tee at the local bar used to get rocked from guys including my self slamming the glass.

I like the revisions to your control panel. Much improved.

With lots of younger kids who 1)  just hit switches randomly because it's a switch that needs to be flipped and 2)  will vindictively do things like power off the game to avoid losing, was more of a personal goal to make this work. 

Menu is tab yes. Exit = escape

I recommend ditching the Menu button, especially given this will be used by children. They will screw up your control and video settings. If you don't already have one, pick up one of these for when you need to make admin changes.

I have one of those I'm already using.  That's probably the best advise.  I could likely put a USB port in the back of the cabinet or under CP for easy access if needed so I don't have to move it, pull the back panel off, plug in and go back around.

I got one of those mine has the off on switch on the keyboard. I have the usb dongle plugged into the back of the htpc. and the keyboard sits on the coffee table. bought it 2 years or so ago and the original batteries are still working.

[fryed_1]

Holidays are over so finally getting around to some finishing work.  I was going to do laminate but found a sale on primer and paint half off at $7/can so figured I'd give it a try painting first. Worst case scenario is I've thrown away $28 and still have to laminate. Putty and sand the crap out of it to fill screw heads first. Now primer and sand. Rinse repeat about 5x.



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[fryed_1]

And found these at a pawn shop for $10. Eyes flash on bass or whatever. Not sure if I'm going to use them but the kids were all for it.


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[fryed_1]

Primer done, sanding done... smoked lexan ordered and should be here in a day or two.

I picked up a Dayton personal amplifier...

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HFG3FYA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3F5PF7AAF3E8R&coliid=I116E9LPP03HSB

Kind of expensive, but it was pretty much ready to go and install right in the front, look good and powered right for the setup - Have a bose acoustimass sub in the bottom and it's already setup to output to the 3-ways up top, so made that decision easy and I'm getting in the mood to get this done and not have to make any custom faceplates and all that for volume.  Plus has a front input for music too.

Having someone better at photoshop/illustrator fix up some artwork for me and will be doing a full vinyl wrap, maybe submit it in a week or two for printing.

[fryed_1]

Cutting plexi for the first time was quite nerve wracking. Fits though and almost ready to start ordering some vinyl wrap. Couple more fix up spots to go.


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[harveybirdman]

What's up with the lip on the CP?  You going to leave it like that?

[fryed_1]

the overhang about 2" front and sides?  Yes, just a little more hand resting room.

[yamatetsu]

To me, that CP looks unnecessarily big. You don't need that much overhang on the front side, and it just looks bad. If this was my cab, I would shorten that overhang to an inch or so, and, most importantly, give the CP a shape that integrates it into the cab. Right now this looks like someone built a nice cab, got bored, grabbed some random piece of wood, made a CP out of it and slapped it on the cab. It just doesn't fit. At the very least I would round those corners, so that it doesn't look so boxy.

That's just my opinion, don't take it personal. If you like the way your cab looks, just ignore me  .

[vwalbridge]

I'd be a little more concerned about putting speakers inside my marquee.

[fryed_1]

It's actually 3/4" overhand on the sides and 1.5" on the front.  It just covers the controls for the amplifier so no one accidentally leans up against the volume controls and external plug if you have an ipod plugged in for additional music or anything.  I realize it might not be "standard", but it is functional in it's current form.  It's also easily replaceable so I can redesign it if I want - something I was considering doing because I've been thinking about CP graphics and how much easier it would be to template them, print them out and drill from that so I can design the graphics around the template instead of trying to build a template after the fact.

I'm not 100% convinced on the speakers in the marquee either.  Wife and kids said they wanted them there so I mocked up some scrap wood in place just so I could get an idea of what it looks like and if I could live with it.

Or I might leave it.. who knows.  This is my first cab and I do expect to do things that I will do different on my next one (yes already started on the N+1 rule).  But in all, it does the job I built it to do and has so far been a heck of a lot of fun!

[fryed_1]

Plus since I built that CP, I've bought a drill press, routing table and table saw... which would make creating a new one from a template 10x more accurate than that one that was built by hand.

[harveybirdman]

Take this for what it's worth, but if it were me I would make my CP fit in between the sides of my cabinet, especially with a two player 6 button setup.

[fryed_1]

Kids were tying to play and asked me if I could make them some stools so they can reach it. This is what I came up with from the leftover wood from the first cab.

I'm thinking 4 joysticks, 3 buttons each with player/coin buttons on the panel under the monitor.

This is an addiction I think...


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[fryed_1]

So I'm going to have to cut a new CP because I screwed this one up trying to attach it, but did cut it down to fit and like it better. Will bondo/putty the seams and round the corners off to make it look like all one molded piece. (yeah I know what if a button/switch goes bad) but I can reach it somewhat easily from underneath. Will look much better in the end I think. Yeah y'all were right.


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[Token]

Will bondo/putty the seams and round the corners off to make it look like all one molded piece. (yeah I know what if a button/switch goes bad) but I can reach it somewhat easily from underneath. Will look much better in the end I think.

Good on ya for taking harveybirdman's advice and fixing the CP dimensions. That looks much, much better.

You might consider making the CP hinged with a T-molding edge. Or if not hinged then have it latched underneath and completely removable. While the seamless look is pretty, an accessible and removable CP is a lifesaver. Someday you may want/need to redo the CP.

Aesthetics vs. Practicality. Either way I like the progress you are making.

[fryed_1]

Yeah I know I'm still torn on it.  I want the seamless look and it is pretty easily accessible from underneath in case I need to replace a switch or something.

I suppose if I were going to go seamless, I would use putty instead of bondo, maybe thumb screws on the top so I can still do the seamless look and if I ever did have to remove it... a little putty, sand and touchup paint would get it back to normal and not damage the cab other than cosmetic if it ever came to completely removing it.  I'd probably be willing to sacrifice a couple days of work on the off-chance that it ever needs to come completely off.

[fryed_1]

Still unsure on the speakers themselves but decided not to put them on the marquee. Waiting on amp and cutting new CP next week.


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[fryed_1]

Tell me if this is a bad idea or no... CP protection.  I'm thinking of routing out 1/8" of the top of the CP, just inside the border by about an inch or so, printing graphics to go in first then putting plexi/lexan on top in the routed out part to protect it and give a nice smooth surface.  Too ambitious or just vinyl the CP face?

[fryed_1]

Think I figured it out. Piece of paper here and some primer/putty to finish it off with. Then remove the paper and carefully sand it smooth with a clean, very small and very even edge that will also be very tiny and hopefully near invisible.


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[fryed_1]

Woohoo no sparks!!!


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