Another first timer post

[fryed_1]

Been playing this for more than a decade now without actually building a cabinet.  It's gone from laptops to mini-pcs to raspberri pi and everything in between over the years.  Couple different pre-fab controllers (xarcade and such), monitors, crt, lcd, etc... and finally, now that I have a house with a big enough garage/mancave, have started on my cabinet.

Use basic dimensions found here on other projects and modified them to suit my tastes and it's almost alive!  Just ordered controls to build a CP - going 2x JLW 8-ways, HAPP buttons, 6 per player, 2 player buttons and 3 admin and 2 coin buttons.  Also went with trackball.  I'll add a spinner later, maybe a flight stick.  Trying to figure out a way to have a detachable CP so I can swap them out with a single USB plug for each so I can eventually incorporate steering wheel/shifter in to one, flight-stick/spinner/trackball in another and whatever else... maybe light guns?

Simple 12v mixer allows for 2 inputs.  Will have a 4x75watt car audio amp with all-range speakers above the monitor and an 8" sub built in to the bottom of the box below.  Will be putting an ipod dock in it as well with 3x volume (master, game, ipod).

24" dell LCD monitor, bezel will hide the front panel controls with graphics on it, plexi over the top.  Of course will be getting the full laminate and tmolding treatment with graphics after I let it sit for a month or so as is to make sure I like how it stands and plays.  Rough draft of my monitor mount made from stripping the old monitor stand of parts, so if something goes wrong with it, you push a button on the back of the monitor, remove the plexi and it pops right out the front.  Monitor mount will get beefed up a little as well now that I have the sizing down right for the mounting blocks.

CPU is a laptop I had sitting around.  i7 3630QM, 16gb ram and nvidia quaddro k2000 I think?  Yeah overkill I know, but I had like 5 of these sitting around collecting dust and figured it would take just about anything I throw at it.  Xubuntu base install, emulation station and compiling mame and other emulators to get rid of nag screens and such.

Built the frame last weekend to make sure everything fits together like I wanted.  This weekend will be pulling it apart, evening up the lines and adding 2x4 internal bracing and putting it all back together in it's final pre-finish form.

[fryed_1]

Added some 2x2 and 2x4 internal bracing to stiffen it up.  Built a vented laptop shelf.  I have some of those wiring strips used in home theater installs left over from doing the house setup to route all the wires through on the side of the cab to make it look good on the inside I'll install later.  Measured and lined up the monitor shelf to take the plexi.  Controls on order from ultimark just got the DHL shipping notification today so hopefully they'll be here end of the week maybe.  Also wired up the LED strips for the marquee lighting.

Over the next few nights will likely start on filling in some of the inconsistencies (never really done much woodworking before so most of this is trial and error learning), sanding down smooth and routing for t-molding.

For mounting the plexi and marquee, not sure what they're called specifically, but I've seen them on other projects here as little "trays" that the plexi sits in - I used some similar stuff, but larger, to cap off the small 1" tile backsplash I did in the kitchen a while back.  Anyways that will be on the bottom and on the marquee something similar, but in L-shape I found on the top that will have a couple thumb screws holding it on.  For the display plexi, will use the same stuff on the bottom and there's just enough of a gap in the top where I will put felt strips down the front of the monitor-side bezel (to give a little room to avoid pushing buttons) where when you install, it will slide up in to the cabinet, press flat against the monitor and then slide down in to the "tray".  Gravity and pressure from the monitor slightly pushing out and the tray/sound board up top pushing in will hold it in there tight enough that I shouldn't need to drill screw holes or anything to keep it still.  If there is an issue with it sliding, I measured the plexi so that I could install clips on the inside top of the sound board above the display plexi (on inside) that I could reach from the access panel in the back to hold it in.

[fryed_1]

Little more work done today.  Bottom subwoofer and power supply section built.  Above it will be a storage cab.  The bottom will be hinged and allow access to the sub/PS area if needed.  I'm toying with the idea of barn doors with magnetic push latches to hold them closed.  Not sure yet.  The third empty spot above the storage cabinet I'll build a shelf to hold the amp and other wiring below the laptop shelf.  I was able to short out the laptop lid switch to thinking it was always open.  That prevents it from going hibernate or turned off with it closed all the time (similar to how a docking station fakes it)... For power on, BIOS has a setting on what to do when power is detected and the lid is open, so that's simple.  I take the battery out and leave it out.  Once I put the power switch in, you turn it on, laptop detects power and turns on and boots.  Power off might be an admin combo-macro or whatever button with a custom end screen "It is safe to turn the power off now..." so you can then flip the switch on the back.





Started mocking up the control panel and drawing out button layouts and all that.  Won't really touch it until they get here from UK, so maybe after the weekend will work on getting it up and playable with controls.  So here's how it sits until the CP gets here.



And until then, a new project has arrived I need to get setup and rolling this weekend....

[tomstewdevine]

It's coming together nice work. I'm interested in how your Control Panel is going to work out, it doesn't look like it will be recessed at all into the cab.  Is it going to be flush with the sides?

[fryed_1]

FWIW advice/ideas are definitely welcome.  This is my first cabinet, though I'm no stranger to emulators and my first "real" woodworking project, so I'm taking my time, soaking in the info and going from there.  For example I know I might have some issues with the buttons clearing under the CP and not sure if I want to "elevate" it a few inches with some kind of structure underneath or route out on the 2x2 where buttons would go.  Maybe even route out some more 3/4" MDF, sandwich it to the CP top and hide all the wiring so it's smooth underneath and give it a little more clearance or something.

I'm not as concerned about authenticity, hence LCD monitor and all that, but more just having fun.  Since monitor has HDMI, VGA, DVI, DP and composite (5 selectable inputs), I'm considering putting a slot for a cable box in the back so I can use it as a garage football tv/arcade/jukebox/movies/etc... all-in-one machine.  The storage below I'm building in to it because I'd like to find a way to make a detachable control panel with a single USB plug so I can easily swap to one with trackball/spinner/flightstick without having everything crammed in one.

[BadMouth]

FWIW advice/ideas are definitely welcome.  This is my first cabinet, though I'm no stranger to emulators and my first "real" woodworking project, so I'm taking my time, soaking in the info and going from there.  For example I know I might have some issues with the buttons clearing under the CP and not sure if I want to "elevate" it a few inches with some kind of structure underneath or route out on the 2x2 where buttons would go.  Maybe even route out some more 3/4" MDF, sandwich it to the CP top and hide all the wiring so it's smooth underneath and give it a little more clearance or something.

Lose the 2x2's, at least where the buttons will be.
Have the CP top overhang the edges a little bit like Martijn's Street Fighter:

...and trim it out with t-molding

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,84649.0.html

[fryed_1]

It's coming together nice work. I'm interested in how your Control Panel is going to work out, it doesn't look like it will be recessed at all into the cab.  Is it going to be flush with the sides?

Well I've got this stuff leftover from a backsplash install in the kitchen which should work great to seat the plexi at the bottom of the monitor.  Still brainstorming for the top though.



CP with another 3/4" MDF on the bottom which should give plenty of button room underneath both hides the rail above and gives room on it to hinge from the back.  Perhaps some quick release hinges like Jeep doors and a spring-loaded latch on the front bottom with the trigger accessible from the bottom front of the CP would work - add a couple 1x2 braces that will disallow side to side movement and make it more stable.




Speak of the devil... as I'm replying, DHL shows up at the door.  Gotta praise Ultimark for being quick half-way around the world from me!

[fryed_1]

FWIW advice/ideas are definitely welcome.  This is my first cabinet, though I'm no stranger to emulators and my first "real" woodworking project, so I'm taking my time, soaking in the info and going from there.  For example I know I might have some issues with the buttons clearing under the CP and not sure if I want to "elevate" it a few inches with some kind of structure underneath or route out on the 2x2 where buttons would go.  Maybe even route out some more 3/4" MDF, sandwich it to the CP top and hide all the wiring so it's smooth underneath and give it a little more clearance or something.

Lose the 2x2's, at least where the buttons will be.
Have the CP top overhang the edges a little bit like Martijn's Street Fighter:

...and trim it out with t-molding

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,84649.0.html

I am going to cut some of them out in the middle.  Wanted a stronger point to possible hinge the CP on the back side than just MDF.  Once I get the CP cut out, I'll trim out the middle of the 2x2 to fit the buttons when it's closed.

[fryed_1]

CP measured out.  Will grab new bits and a router on the way home from work tomorrow.  Going single sheet of MDF, 1" lip over the sides and front that will get tmolding and will have to route out some of the middle of the 2x2's, but would really like to keep them there to support hinges if I decide to add them.

[Frank Drebin]

Is that MDF or particle?

[fryed_1]

Is that MDF or particle?

Sorry it is particle.

[harveybirdman]

Lots of commercial cabs back in the day were made with particle, and since you are laminating you should be alright, but you definitely want to raise it up off the ground with some casters or feet (Twisted Quarter sells them), as particle is super susceptible to water damage.

Also I still don't get what you're doing with the CP, the first pic makes it look like its not flush with the sides, but then your next pics make it seem like there will be some overhang?

I know that I'm a CRT lover, but I'm glad you got an LCD that fits the scale of your cab... Noting worse than a skinny screen that barley takes up enough real estate, it looks really good so far.

Also... Don't but a spinner or flight stick on it, save those for your next project! 

[tomstewdevine]

CP measured out.  Will grab new bits and a router on the way home from work tomorrow.  Going single sheet of MDF, 1" lip over the sides and front that will get tmolding and will have to route out some of the middle of the 2x2's, but would really like to keep them there to support hinges if I decide to add them.

What are you going to use for your select button? I get the CP now, and it should work fine even with those 2x2's.

[fryed_1]

Yes I have some heavy duty casters like the ones on the Kobolt workbench behind it in a few of the pics.  Just haven't laid it down to put them on yet, easier to work on it while it's on a dry floor and a little more immovable.

I'm only about 75% sure what I'm doing with the CP at this point as well hehe.  Building as I go... will build the panel as it is now, tack it on and get it playable for a week or so, then decide whether to make it perm or rebuild.

[fryed_1]

What are you going to use for your select button? I get the CP now, and it should work fine even with those 2x2's.

3 not enough?  So far with keyboard, I can do everything for MAME I need with those three that doesn't require any admin/menu functions... so use the joystick to navigate between games, play to start it up, pause to pause it and escape brings you back to the emulationstation screen.

I have 9 generic white buttons that I can use.  Not sure if I'm going to do the pinball buttons on the side or not yet, but 3 are on the CP right now.  Was planning on 2 others out of the way but accessible to assign macros to flip between game/jukebox mode and need to figure out a place for a coin drop button.

I considered putting some consoles on it but will probably not.  Console games are more longer playing and I couldn't see doing something like all of Super Mario series or Zelda standing up at a machine like this.

[BadMouth]

No need for a dedicated select button.

I've found most of my guests instinctively press the first button on player 1's side since they are already using that joystick to navigate.
I originally had the player 1 start button mapped to start games, but it was always the second button they tried.

IMO all you really need is a dedicated exit button.  Pause is nice to have, but not 100% necessary.

[tomstewdevine]

What are you going to use for your select button? I get the CP now, and it should work fine even with those 2x2's.

3 not enough?  So far with keyboard, I can do everything for MAME I need with those three that doesn't require any admin/menu functions... so use the joystick to navigate between games, play to start it up, pause to pause it and escape brings you back to the emulationstation screen.

I have 9 generic white buttons that I can use.  Not sure if I'm going to do the pinball buttons on the side or not yet, but 3 are on the CP right now.  Was planning on 2 others out of the way but accessible to assign macros to flip between game/jukebox mode and need to figure out a place for a coin drop button.

I considered putting some consoles on it but will probably not.  Console games are more longer playing and I couldn't see doing something like all of Super Mario series or Zelda standing up at a machine like this.

I'm a ---smurfing--- idiot, I didn't see that the one button said play. Carry on....

[fryed_1]

Getting closer. Not sure I'm liking the CP layout yet. Definitely rebuilding it using stronger wood because I don't really trust the strength of particle board if you're going to be slapping the joysticks around. Will get it wired though and playable tonight and see how it does.


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[tomstewdevine]

If that particle board is 3/4 inch you are just fine, it will be plenty strong for a CP.

[mgb]

Control panel layout looks decent but possibly a bit much space between buttons.

Progress is looking good though 

Control panel may also look a little better with a slightly rounded shape to it.

[fryed_1]

Yeah I have P1 wired up and I'm not extremely comfortable with it. Coin button in the center until I get a hole saw to try out the trackball.

Other than that I doubt I'll get around to wiring up P2 tonight because I'll like be playing all night!


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[mgb]

It's miller time.
you need to get plenty of test driving in before making these decisions.

[Yenome]

is it just me or does the row spacing on the buttons look overly large. it might just be camera angle but it looks like there is too much room between the two rows. particle board is find i build an arcade stick out of 3/4" and it has held up nicely.

[mgb]

yes I also mentioned the large spacing.
it'd be best to have the butons near touching

[EMDB]

yes I also mentioned the large spacing.
it'd be best to have the butons near touching

I agree. Use the templates from slagcoin. Also the sticks seem to be undermounted without recess. The shafts are too small now.

[mgb]

yes I also mentioned the large spacing.
it'd be best to have the butons near touching

I agree. Use the templates from slagcoin. Also the sticks seem to be undermounted without recess. The shafts are too small now.

They look good to me

[fryed_1]

I routed out about 1/4" of the 3/4" total.  I thought they looked rather short from what I remembered as well, but it does feel pretty natural playing.

[BadMouth]

On the buttons:  I usually mount them so the nuts on the back are just touching.  It gets them as close together as possible and keeps the spacing uniform even if my mounting holes aren't.  Having a button wrench makes life easier when the buttons are that close together.

[fryed_1]

8way sticks are very finicky on 4way games like pacman.


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[mgb]

8way sticks are very finicky on 4way games like pacman.

If by "finicky", you mean "suck", yes you're correct

[vwalbridge]

8way sticks are very finicky on 4way games like pacman.

If by "finicky", you mean "suck", yes you're correct

+1. And that was funny. 

[harveybirdman]

If 4 way games are important to you consider making the next project a classics cab.  There is no need to make a cab that HAS to play everything.

Also please consider uploading your pics to the forum and sizing them a bit smaller.  It's harder to follow your progress when we can only see your pics on some platforms and phones can't scroll easily with large pics.

[fryed_1]

Well I tried out the JLW in 4-way mode by rotating the restrictor plate on the bottom and worked much better.

Reading up, they will take servos so you can rotate them manually I think.  I don't suppose Mame will detect automatically if it's a 4/8 way game and rotate it for you would it?  They also have hardware mode where I could add a simple 4/8 way toggle.  Anyone thing that would get confusing for players that aren't tech savvy to realize what that means?

[harveybirdman]

As I recall there is a plugin for Mala that DaOldMan wrote to do what you're thinking, but Mala development is dead so I'm not recommending it as a front end any longer.

Personally I'd design it so that you can just pop the panel and turn the restrictor, but if that's not clean enough for you there are top mount solutions.

Or you know... just build a separte cab for 4-way games... 

[BadMouth]

I believe LED Blinky can trigger the joystick switching.
EDIT: http://www.ledblinky.net/ledblinky.htm  yup, listed in the features

I'm using Mala, but...what harveybirdman said.

[fryed_1]

As I recall there is a plugin for Mala that DaOldMan wrote to do what you're thinking, but Mala development is dead so I'm not recommending it as a front end any longer.

Personally I'd design it so that you can just pop the panel and turn the restrictor, but if that's not clean enough for you there are top mount solutions.

Or you know... just build a separte cab for 4-way games... 

I'd love to, but between tools, 13 bikes and her wanting to park her van in the garage during the colder months, room for a second cab is very limited.  The JLW stick has a geared restrictor plate on the back and I see they make servo kits for the other JLW based sticks on Ultimarc... I'm thinking it wouldn't be too hard to use the LED program listed below (I had looked at it for lighting up the buttons that a game used as it started) to activate the servo and move to/from 4/8 way mode when you start the game.  However it's windows only... maybe take another look at hyperspin over emulationstation on linux.

Alternatively, a simple 2-way toggle in the CP to select 4/8 way would work as well, but I'd like to automate it as much as possible.

[harveybirdman]

This might be helpful reading

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=116602.0

He used Randy's version of the JLW, the Omni 2 and Mala, and he's a legend (even if he has posted only once since September, we miss you if you're reading this bruh)

[fryed_1]

That's good info harveybirdman, thanks!

[fryed_1]

Off topic but after a few days of pouring concrete, rebuilding decks and having friends over to test drive the new arcade, topped it off by christening this tonight.

Got some bugs to work out on the machine. Plays well, but there's some bottom combos that are activating OS features like alt-tab and such and interrupting the games.  Overall they were impressed and a better CP layout will make it much more comfy.


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[BadMouth]

Plays well, but there's some bottom combos that are activating OS features like alt-tab and such and interrupting the games.

Not sure what interface you are using, but it's best to ditch the first four default mame keys at the encoder level if you plan to run emulators other than mame.  The ipac can be reprogrammed.  On the key wiz, I just use different inputs and then use things like ALT for admin or coin buttons that won't be hit during play.  There are software workarounds, but it's easier to just start out with keys that don't cause problems. It only takes a minute to remap those four keys globally in mame.

I you only plan to run mame, then just disable hotkeys in windows. (Google it)

[fryed_1]

Plays well, but there's some bottom combos that are activating OS features like alt-tab and such and interrupting the games.

Not sure what interface you are using, but it's best to ditch the first four default mame keys at the encoder level if you plan to run emulators other than mame.  The ipac can be reprogrammed.  On the key wiz, I just use different inputs and then use things like ALT for admin or coin buttons that won't be hit during play.  There are software workarounds, but it's easier to just start out with keys that don't cause problems. It only takes a minute to remap those four keys globally in mame.

I you only plan to run mame, then just disable hotkeys in windows. (Google it)

Currently I'm using linux+emulationstation with mame v0.164 I think.  Compiled to remove nag screens.  Wasn't planning on windows, but can test it out if it proves too buggy in it's current form.

[fryed_1]

So researching power options....

Laptop has the ability to wake from USB, so that would give the ability for it to remain closed and flip of a joystick, press a button, anything on the CP can wake the laptop or power it on.

I find this:  http://www.pwrusb.com/order/

Now that's intriguing, albeit expensive at $90-100.  Has an always-on outlet [laptop] and 3 switched outlets [monitor, amp, LED/lighting] that is triggered by software that runs when the laptop boots.  Anyone use anything like that?  Might talk to an EE buddy of mine because I don't think all the software-controlled stuff is really needed and only detect USB power and go from there to activate a normal power strip.

Goal being to avoid permanently hacking up an expensive laptop for this (in case I want to repurpose it later and put a more traditional gutted pc in it). 

[Yenome]

I dont see why you couldnt just get one of the smart power strips that do the same as that but not on a usb port. they have one plug that is the master and then 3 power sensing plugs, that get power only when the master port does. I would think you might be able to set the laptop to return to a power on state on getting power. and then use the switch on the power strip as your main switch. $20 dollar smart strip is better to tear into than the laptop. i have a smart strip as do a lot on this forum. most are set so pc power on provides power to tv,lights,speakers.

[fryed_1]

I just ordered the one above and will assign a shutdown button/combo.

With lots of younger kids who 1)  just hit switches randomly because it's a switch that needs to be flipped and 2)  will vindictively do things like power off the game to avoid losing, was more of a personal goal to make this work.  Anyways, the strip above has a software API that tells the strip to turn on when the laptop is powering up.  Same when it's powering down.  I have 5 extra white buttons, so plugged it in and assigned it to shut down the system and will put it in an inconspicuous place - likely out of reach of younger kids.

Rebuilt the machine with win7sp1 pro, stripped it down using the guide here and setup attractmode.  Only going to use mame games for now and I do see that attractmode supports servosticks and ledblinky and other things like that, plus simple and not as bloated as hyperspin.

Bought the soundsystem last night.  Went with a $20 18x2+36x1 2.1 DIY amp.



has sub, treble and master volume controls that should be easy to mount and place, plus not have to worry about generating a lot of heat.  Pyle in-wall 6.25" full range speakers will be placed up high.  I earmarked a pyle 6" sub, but haven't got it yet because I want to see how good these in-wall speakers work before I built that out.

Started cutting out a new CP last night and printing out the CP images mentioned earlier.  Will use those to scale to build it out and get the trackball setup.  Should have that done tonight.

Once the sound is in place, will get some laminate and tmolding and start the finishing work.

[fryed_1]

Battle testing.


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[fryed_1]

CP v2. Printed a couple different sizes out and went with whatever 55% of 300dpi is.

Dropped the play and pause.  R1 (player 1 red button 1) works good for start button from front end. Left escape and added a menu button since I would rather keep it keyboard free if there's a quick issue with controls.

Buttons have about 1/16 inch between bezels. Also added coin 2 button and enough room for the trackball. Both joysticks also have enough room for servos should I decide to add them at some point.


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[fryed_1]

CP v3 will include a new feature of not routing out the wrong side of the panel.


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[fryed_1]

I do like the button placement and layout better though.




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[harveybirdman]

What do Menu and Exit do?

is Menu the TAB button?

[fryed_1]

Menu is tab yes. Exit = escape


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[harveybirdman]

When it comes to MAME settings, I think it's better to set it and forget it... On the bright side, your spacing looks much better on this one.

[Token]

I like the revisions to your control panel. Much improved.

With lots of younger kids who 1)  just hit switches randomly because it's a switch that needs to be flipped and 2)  will vindictively do things like power off the game to avoid losing, was more of a personal goal to make this work. 

Menu is tab yes. Exit = escape

I recommend ditching the Menu button, especially given this will be used by children. They will screw up your control and video settings. If you don't already have one, pick up one of these for when you need to make admin changes.

[fryed_1]

I like the revisions to your control panel. Much improved.

With lots of younger kids who 1)  just hit switches randomly because it's a switch that needs to be flipped and 2)  will vindictively do things like power off the game to avoid losing, was more of a personal goal to make this work. 

Menu is tab yes. Exit = escape

I recommend ditching the Menu button, especially given this will be used by children. They will screw up your control and video settings. If you don't already have one, pick up one of these for when you need to make admin changes.

I have one of those I'm already using.  That's probably the best advise.  I could likely put a USB port in the back of the cabinet or under CP for easy access if needed so I don't have to move it, pull the back panel off, plug in and go back around.

[vwalbridge]

I recommend ditching the Menu button, especially given this will be used by children. They will screw up your control and video settings. If you don't already have one, pick up

Can't agree more with Token's opinion on the menu button. He is spot on. Trust me, if you cab is anywhere near someone under the age of 13, they WILL figure out a way to mess up your settings. A menu button is just a big fat invitation to do so.

I always recommend a wireless keyboard/touchpad combo for adjustments after the cab is built.

[fryed_1]

Hopefully the final version

.


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[Token]

[fryed_1]

My knuckles learned that you really need a longer runoff room with a trackball for some really competitive Golden Tee. Luckily only hit the wood and not the monitor.


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[Yenome]

My knuckles learned that you really need a longer runoff room with a trackball for some really competitive Golden Tee. Luckily only hit the wood and not the monitor.


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I agree The silver strike and golden tee at the local bar used to get rocked from guys including my self slamming the glass.

I like the revisions to your control panel. Much improved.

With lots of younger kids who 1)  just hit switches randomly because it's a switch that needs to be flipped and 2)  will vindictively do things like power off the game to avoid losing, was more of a personal goal to make this work. 

Menu is tab yes. Exit = escape

I recommend ditching the Menu button, especially given this will be used by children. They will screw up your control and video settings. If you don't already have one, pick up one of these for when you need to make admin changes.

I have one of those I'm already using.  That's probably the best advise.  I could likely put a USB port in the back of the cabinet or under CP for easy access if needed so I don't have to move it, pull the back panel off, plug in and go back around.

I got one of those mine has the off on switch on the keyboard. I have the usb dongle plugged into the back of the htpc. and the keyboard sits on the coffee table. bought it 2 years or so ago and the original batteries are still working.

[fryed_1]

Holidays are over so finally getting around to some finishing work.  I was going to do laminate but found a sale on primer and paint half off at $7/can so figured I'd give it a try painting first. Worst case scenario is I've thrown away $28 and still have to laminate. Putty and sand the crap out of it to fill screw heads first. Now primer and sand. Rinse repeat about 5x.



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[fryed_1]

And found these at a pawn shop for $10. Eyes flash on bass or whatever. Not sure if I'm going to use them but the kids were all for it.


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[fryed_1]

Primer done, sanding done... smoked lexan ordered and should be here in a day or two.

I picked up a Dayton personal amplifier...

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HFG3FYA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3F5PF7AAF3E8R&coliid=I116E9LPP03HSB

Kind of expensive, but it was pretty much ready to go and install right in the front, look good and powered right for the setup - Have a bose acoustimass sub in the bottom and it's already setup to output to the 3-ways up top, so made that decision easy and I'm getting in the mood to get this done and not have to make any custom faceplates and all that for volume.  Plus has a front input for music too.

Having someone better at photoshop/illustrator fix up some artwork for me and will be doing a full vinyl wrap, maybe submit it in a week or two for printing.

[fryed_1]

Cutting plexi for the first time was quite nerve wracking. Fits though and almost ready to start ordering some vinyl wrap. Couple more fix up spots to go.


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[harveybirdman]

What's up with the lip on the CP?  You going to leave it like that?

[fryed_1]

the overhang about 2" front and sides?  Yes, just a little more hand resting room.

[yamatetsu]

To me, that CP looks unnecessarily big. You don't need that much overhang on the front side, and it just looks bad. If this was my cab, I would shorten that overhang to an inch or so, and, most importantly, give the CP a shape that integrates it into the cab. Right now this looks like someone built a nice cab, got bored, grabbed some random piece of wood, made a CP out of it and slapped it on the cab. It just doesn't fit. At the very least I would round those corners, so that it doesn't look so boxy.

That's just my opinion, don't take it personal. If you like the way your cab looks, just ignore me  .

[vwalbridge]

I'd be a little more concerned about putting speakers inside my marquee.

[fryed_1]

It's actually 3/4" overhand on the sides and 1.5" on the front.  It just covers the controls for the amplifier so no one accidentally leans up against the volume controls and external plug if you have an ipod plugged in for additional music or anything.  I realize it might not be "standard", but it is functional in it's current form.  It's also easily replaceable so I can redesign it if I want - something I was considering doing because I've been thinking about CP graphics and how much easier it would be to template them, print them out and drill from that so I can design the graphics around the template instead of trying to build a template after the fact.

I'm not 100% convinced on the speakers in the marquee either.  Wife and kids said they wanted them there so I mocked up some scrap wood in place just so I could get an idea of what it looks like and if I could live with it.

Or I might leave it.. who knows.  This is my first cab and I do expect to do things that I will do different on my next one (yes already started on the N+1 rule).  But in all, it does the job I built it to do and has so far been a heck of a lot of fun!

[fryed_1]

Plus since I built that CP, I've bought a drill press, routing table and table saw... which would make creating a new one from a template 10x more accurate than that one that was built by hand.

[harveybirdman]

Take this for what it's worth, but if it were me I would make my CP fit in between the sides of my cabinet, especially with a two player 6 button setup.

[fryed_1]

Kids were tying to play and asked me if I could make them some stools so they can reach it. This is what I came up with from the leftover wood from the first cab.

I'm thinking 4 joysticks, 3 buttons each with player/coin buttons on the panel under the monitor.

This is an addiction I think...


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[fryed_1]

So I'm going to have to cut a new CP because I screwed this one up trying to attach it, but did cut it down to fit and like it better. Will bondo/putty the seams and round the corners off to make it look like all one molded piece. (yeah I know what if a button/switch goes bad) but I can reach it somewhat easily from underneath. Will look much better in the end I think. Yeah y'all were right.


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[Token]

Will bondo/putty the seams and round the corners off to make it look like all one molded piece. (yeah I know what if a button/switch goes bad) but I can reach it somewhat easily from underneath. Will look much better in the end I think.

Good on ya for taking harveybirdman's advice and fixing the CP dimensions. That looks much, much better.

You might consider making the CP hinged with a T-molding edge. Or if not hinged then have it latched underneath and completely removable. While the seamless look is pretty, an accessible and removable CP is a lifesaver. Someday you may want/need to redo the CP.

Aesthetics vs. Practicality. Either way I like the progress you are making.

[fryed_1]

Yeah I know I'm still torn on it.  I want the seamless look and it is pretty easily accessible from underneath in case I need to replace a switch or something.

I suppose if I were going to go seamless, I would use putty instead of bondo, maybe thumb screws on the top so I can still do the seamless look and if I ever did have to remove it... a little putty, sand and touchup paint would get it back to normal and not damage the cab other than cosmetic if it ever came to completely removing it.  I'd probably be willing to sacrifice a couple days of work on the off-chance that it ever needs to come completely off.

[fryed_1]

Still unsure on the speakers themselves but decided not to put them on the marquee. Waiting on amp and cutting new CP next week.


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[fryed_1]

Tell me if this is a bad idea or no... CP protection.  I'm thinking of routing out 1/8" of the top of the CP, just inside the border by about an inch or so, printing graphics to go in first then putting plexi/lexan on top in the routed out part to protect it and give a nice smooth surface.  Too ambitious or just vinyl the CP face?

[fryed_1]

Think I figured it out. Piece of paper here and some primer/putty to finish it off with. Then remove the paper and carefully sand it smooth with a clean, very small and very even edge that will also be very tiny and hopefully near invisible.


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[fryed_1]

Woohoo no sparks!!!


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