WG 25" K7000 issues - AC Voltage 136.0V

[Alaska]

BOTH black wires go to the neckboard, they are BOTH grounds, one to the aquadag on the tube, the other to the heatsink near the flyback. They are soldered in the same location DudeRegular pointed out. Note that there are TWO holes right in that area next to eachother, I'm sure one of them will have a bit of broken piece of wire sticking out of it now.

Thanks for the picture. That is identical to what I am looking at. The position where the ground wire -> heatsink near flyback is attached to the board reads 8K on your board too. The picture posted by Duderancher is slightly different but same effect. It looks like the wire is either connected to the sample high voltage slot or attached on the opposite side of the board.

Thanks for the help guys! I'll get it connected when I get home Friday and fire up the monitor for the first time... That is if my house is still standing. We just had a 7.1 earthquake on Saturday night/Sunday morning. pretty crazy

[Alaska]

Got back and soldered the ground wire to the 8K slot, hooked it back up and fired the monitor up. I feel like I am making progress, but still not there yet.

When fired up and connected to the arcade vga card, all I get is a green screen from top to bottom with a few black lines. Any thoughts?

[DudeRegular]

That is a good sign.

Do you have a pcb you can test rather than the pc? That would help confirm you don't have more monitor issues.

Also how did you setup your video resolutions and all that on the pc? You probably need to be set to something like 640x480 interlaced to get a screen image from the pc.

[P.H.U.]

Good thread. I am here learning. I have the same monitor.

[Alaska]

I was running in 640x480 with no luck.

Oh snap!!! The old PCB works!!! The picture is fantastic!!!

It looks like it is an issue with the VGA Card or my settings on the computer... The wiring harness I purchased straight from Ultimarc along with the VGA card. I ran the trisync and selected Standard Monitor for the output....

hmmm any ideas?

[Alaska]

The polarity of the degaussing coil is not important. So, it doesn't matter how you insert that plug.
The video signal connector should be mounted in correctly. You usually have RGB GND and sync.
If you put it in incorrect, you will short one of the color outputs of your game pcb to gnd.
Sometimes, the letters RGB are marked on the pcb, and the wires going to the connector have red, green and blue isolation.
Another thing you can do is find the ground pin with an ohm meter. That one should correspond with the ground of the connector.
The ground pin should measure approx 0 ohm in reference to the chassis which is also ground.

Normally, you have a ground wire going from the wire that runs across the picture tube to the neck board. It looks like that's the one you reconnected. Not sure why you cut that wire as it's usually using a connector on the neck board side.

You might also have an additional ground wire that connects the pcb chassis metal parts to the tube chassis metal. It would make sense that you disconnected such to remove the pcb from the chassis. This last however is just speculation. Maybe someone with the exact same chassis can shine a light.

Side note about the RGB plug. It is keyed so it will only connect one way. The pins on the left side of the board are closer together than those on the right! That made hooking everything backup a breeze. Thanks again for the help.

[P.H.U.]

I was running in 640x480 with no luck.

Oh snap!!! The old PCB works!!! The picture is fantastic!!!

It looks like it is an issue with the VGA Card or my settings on the computer... The wiring harness I purchased straight from Ultimarc along with the VGA card. I ran the trisync and selected Standard Monitor for the output....

hmmm any ideas?

I think the Ultimarc cable has a 5v signal boost from pin 9 off the VGA card. For you, you will probably need to remove that by fashioning your own VGA>CGA breakout cable. Here is the info: 

http://www.ultimarc.com/vidamp.html

CTRL+F "Wells" and it will take you the right section of the page.

[Alaska]

I think the Ultimarc cable has a 5v signal boost from pin 9 off the VGA card. For you, you will probably need to remove that by fashioning your own VGA>CGA breakout cable. Here is the info: 

http://www.ultimarc.com/vidamp.html

CTRL+F "Wells" and it will take you the right section of the page.

The cable that I purchased is the VGA breakout cable http://www.ultimarc.com/store/section.php?xSec=11 I did not see the amplifier in the package or attached. It says that the new versions (which I purchased) could be directly installed into a Wells Gardner monitor. I just looked at my harness for the original PCB and it has an RGB and ground pins and only one other pin (Horizonal sync). The cable I got from ultimarc has an H sync and V sync.

[DudeRegular]

Try getting your video settings on the pc setup using an alternate known working monitor like an lcd. Run through the crt emudriver instructions to get all your resolutions setup and you should be ok. If that still doesn't work, suggest forcing the 640x480i. Ensure it is interlaced. You will not get a picture running a progressive 480 signal.

[Alaska]

Alright I got a picture but what a hasselhoff and it looks mediocre. Worse off is that 640x480 will not display at all. I just get a green screen. I can get a picture if I run it in 640x240, but when I fire up Mame (aside from the numerous ddraw errors I keep getting while using Windows 7) the games play in a funky compressed screen taking up about 25% of the horizontal space. If I restart in 640x480 or do a full shutdown and power up with ONLY the arcade monitor plugged in I can get the initial Dell screen on the monitor... then back to the green output via 640x480. I can get both monitors to work in tandem but have to use the Duplicate Screen option as recommended by Ultimarc.

Sad to say... I thought I would break the mold and get hyperspin + AVGA to work with Windows 7... but it doesn't look promising. I could revert back to XP... or get a new card and install Groovy Mame?! I feel like I'm at a crossroad here. I can spend another week(s) attempting to get this  card working or buy a new graphics card and spend the week setting up Groovy Mame... Any recommendations or advice would be welcomed.

Cheers

[Alaska]

Alright I got a picture but what a hasselhoff and it looks mediocre. Worse off is that 640x480 will not display at all. I just get a green screen. I can get a picture if I run it in 640x240, but when I fire up Mame (aside from the numerous ddraw errors I keep getting while using Windows 7) the games play in a funky compressed screen taking up about 25% of the horizontal space. If I restart in 640x480 or do a full shutdown and power up with ONLY the arcade monitor plugged in I can get the initial Dell screen on the monitor... then back to the green output via 640x480. I can get both monitors to work in tandem but have to use the Duplicate Screen option as recommended by Ultimarc.

Sad to say... I thought I would break the mold and get hyperspin + AVGA to work with Windows 7... but it doesn't look promising. I could revert back to XP... or get a new card and install Groovy Mame?! I feel like I'm at a crossroad here. I can spend another week(s) attempting to get this  card working or buy a new graphics card and spend the week setting up Groovy Mame... Any recommendations or advice would be welcomed.

Cheers

This guy seems to have had the same issues with the AVGA http://www.gameex.info/forums/topic/15776-resolved-windows-7-ddraw-and-arcade-vga-res-switching-problems/

[DudeRegular]

If it were me, I would grab a different card and go the groovymame + crt_emudriver combo route. Its just good man.

In the mean time maybe try the  powerstrip software to see if you can force 640x480i. The "i" being the key. You can't get a picture at "regular" (progressive) 640x480 because your monitor simply does not support it. the green screen is simply your monitor telling you it doesn't like the signal you are feeding it.

[P.H.U.]

I second using GroovyMAME, CRT EMU drivers, and a Radeon HD4000 series card. Don't go with the 4890. Calamity mentions of some issues in the main GM thread. A 4350 will work just fine. Also, I'd go with XP-64bit. Found a site that has the XP 64-bit ISO (http://getintopc.com/softwares/operating-systems/windows-xp-64-bit-iso-free-download/). Use WinToFlash and load it onto a USB stick to speed the install. I don't care if the OS not secure since it is in a cab. Just need it to work for EMU. You can also try to use XP-64bit instead of Win7.

I guess that is why we see so many AVGA's dumped in the BST forums on all the board over the years.

[robbbby]

I had a AVGA and it was nothing but problems.  Switched to a radeon 6000 series and crtemu with win8 an could not be happier.

[Alaska]

I second using GroovyMAME, CRT EMU drivers, and a Radeon HD4000 series card. Don't go with the 4890. Calamity mentions of some issues in the main GM thread. A 4350 will work just fine. Also, I'd go with XP-64bit. Found a site that has the XP 64-bit ISO (http://getintopc.com/softwares/operating-systems/windows-xp-64-bit-iso-free-download/). Use WinToFlash and load it onto a USB stick to speed the install. I don't care if the OS not secure since it is in a cab. Just need it to work for EMU. You can also try to use XP-64bit instead of Win7.

I guess that is why we see so many AVGA's dumped in the BST forums on all the board over the years.

Thanks I'll check that site out. I have a few old laptops laying around, one of which has a Windows XP product key. I'll try installing XP first then purchase a new card.

Second question. What is the best card to purchase. Least amount of problems, and best results. I see you mentioned the Radeon 4350 and robbby said the Radeon HD 6000 series. Also any specific manufacturer of the card? I see for the 4350 it is sold by VisionTek, XFX, HP etc. Thanks for the help guys.

[Alaska]

I ended up installing Windows XP 32bit. I had an install CD for SP2 laying around and upgraded to SP3 (let me know if anyone needs this file, it was hard to find), and updated windows (Same thing with the install file for I.E.8 ). The link to XP64 worked but the file I downloaded was corrupt and did not load properly on my machine.

I installed the ArcadeVGA and got the thing working in 640x480 (after resolving some weird issues). I was able to setup MAME with the proper ddraw setting and the resolution looks great in a few games. I can launch games with RL no problem, but some games have resolution issues... that is they invoke a resolution that either bounces vertically or is cut off on the top and bottom. Essentially I now need to identify the games where this is happening and change the resolution that MAME invokes.

Side note... I fired up Hyperspin to see how everything looked and got the blue screen of death!!! It looks like a .dll error. I initially copied over HS and RL directly from my Windows 7 machine so I'm going to reinstall the software which will more than likely remedy the error... here's hoping at least.

Short story long I purchased Radeon 4350 card as a backup. If I can't get everything stable by the time the card arrives I'm ditching the ArcadeVGA for GroovyMAME and CRT EMU Drivers.

[DudeRegular]

Groovymame and crt emudriver will solve a bunch of these resolution issues you are having. You generate the modeline for your monitor and then it fires your games up correctly. i think you will be happy making the switch.

[Alaska]

Using MAMEUI I was able to get everything to work with the ArcadeVGA, and the resolutions look great. I haven't tried reinstalling the front end yet... just happy that everything finally works. The Radeon 4K card will be here by the weekend so I have a few more shots at getting HyperSpin to work before I abandon it all together.

Thanks again to everyone for the help!

[Alaska]

I was able to get the whole thing working with HyperSpin 1.4, RocketLauncher, MAME.170, and the ArcadeVGA with Windows XP 32bit. The issue was RocketLauncher used the MAME.exe rather than the specified MAMEUI.exe. I deleted MAME.ini and ran the command prompt> MAME -cc -directdraw and the new .INI file resolved the resolution issues I was previously having. Other than that I had to reconfigure a few other .XML files and encrypt some config files so that RL wouldn't reconfigure them on launch. But now I have a working machine with HyperSpin, and all of the themes, wheels and videos installed for my PCBs. Pretty awesome final product! To be honest all of the jacking around to make things work was pretty fun. I feel like I gained a lot of knowledge in areas where I previously lacked, and am definitely hooked on building these machines as a hobby. It's too bad Alaska doesn't have a large stash of old arcades.

Thanks again to all of you for helping out with this project. All that I have left to do is mount a few USB plates to the back of the control panel to make hooking up a keyboard and mouse easier, and slap some graphics on the control board.

Cheers
 

[Alaska]

Let me front end that I am new and still learning my way around arcade hardware, but am having a blast so far. Here are my issues.

I have a WG 25K7191 monitor inside of an old "Hit the Ice" cabinet. I tried turning the game on and I get a blip of light in the upper left corner then nothing. It lasts a split second and sounds like the monitor wanted to turn on before it gives up and shuts down. No sound, video, nada. I checked the power supply and have 136.0V coming in and going out to the monitor. The 5V and 12V that go to the JAMMA board are pretty close (4.98 and 12.05). The continuity and solders in the actual JAMMA board look good and I don't see any glaring issues (cold solder joints, dark solder or bulged caps). I'm having trouble wrapping my brain around a few things and was hoping someone could help.

*Don't laugh too hard* What is this main power unit called? [/URL][/img]
***edit*** The picture is of the isolation transformer.

Is the 136.0V output to my monitor too much? What can I do to change this voltage (if needed)?
Is the chassis more than likely the issue and not my power supply or game board?

This is my intention. I just ordered an Arcade VGA card from Ultimarc. I have a PC that I will be hooking up to this cabinet. I would like to bail on the old controls (4-player but only 2 buttons) and go to either 2 or 4-player with 6-buttons. I will more than likely do this with an ipac. What I would like to do before I purchase the ipac, joystick and buttons is to make sure that the monitor works.

Any idea what might be causing the issues for the monitor?

Many Thanks,

~Alaska

I made one rather large error before initially posting this. I did not measure the voltage at the outlet, only the voltage that was powering the monitor inside of the cabinet when not under load. Now that the monitor works properly I am seeing 125V at the monitor and seeing 123-125V at the outlet. Game on!