WG 25" K7000 issues - AC Voltage 136.0V

[Alaska]

Let me front end that I am new and still learning my way around arcade hardware, but am having a blast so far. Here are my issues.

I have a WG 25K7191 monitor inside of an old "Hit the Ice" cabinet. I tried turning the game on and I get a blip of light in the upper left corner then nothing. It lasts a split second and sounds like the monitor wanted to turn on before it gives up and shuts down. No sound, video, nada. I checked the power supply and have 136.0V coming in and going out to the monitor. The 5V and 12V that go to the JAMMA board are pretty close (4.98 and 12.05). The continuity and solders in the actual JAMMA board look good and I don't see any glaring issues (cold solder joints, dark solder or bulged caps). I'm having trouble wrapping my brain around a few things and was hoping someone could help.

*Don't laugh too hard* What is this main power unit called? [/URL][/img]
***edit*** The picture is of the isolation transformer.

Is the 136.0V output to my monitor too much? What can I do to change this voltage (if needed)?
Is the chassis more than likely the issue and not my power supply or game board?

This is my intention. I just ordered an Arcade VGA card from Ultimarc. I have a PC that I will be hooking up to this cabinet. I would like to bail on the old controls (4-player but only 2 buttons) and go to either 2 or 4-player with 6-buttons. I will more than likely do this with an ipac. What I would like to do before I purchase the ipac, joystick and buttons is to make sure that the monitor works.

Any idea what might be causing the issues for the monitor?

Many Thanks,

~Alaska

[Alaska]

[Alaska]

I disconnected the game board and tried powering on the monitor. Same issue. The rim around the screen flickered, it sounded like it wanted to turn on, then crackled as it shuts down.

The neck of the monitor does not appear to be glowing when the power is turned on.

[grantspain]

136vac is a bit too high,i would think 130vac is a push on this model

you should still get a monitor running at that ac level though,might get regulation issues but it would sort of run

your issue is an actual chassis fault-which could be a multitude of things

[Alaska]

Hmmm... I contacted a few folks about ordering a rebuilt working chassis and am waiting for a response. Do you think if I swap out the chassis that it would remedy the problem?

Also, how do I decrease the 136.0VAC? Is this more of a local issue than a  bad power unit (picture above)

[grantspain]

I have similar issues from my mains supply,i am in the u.k and the supply is meant to be 230vac but mine is 255vac-this means i have to make sure any transformers i use are tapped on the ac input primary as high as possible(i.e 240vac)
if i don't do that all my ac voltages from the transformer are 10 volts higher than they should be-causes issues mainly on electrohome chassis rather than k7000

the k7000 has a regulator ic and i reckon it can soak up a bit of the higher ac

that wiring looks like it could be a midway cab,in that case i think you may find there are ac input primary links that can be moved(its on the big white molex connector i think)-you would need a manual to confirm this
for instance if you find that your ac supply is 130v and the transformer links are tapped to 110v then that would be the problem,you would then move the transformer links to 130vac and i bet your secondary ac would then drop to 120vac

[Alaska]

Thanks for the tip! I'll do some research and see what I can find out.

Can I remove the monitor and frame from the cabinet with discharging? I have been hesitant to do this, but it is really awkward to get inside of the cabinet to discharge the monitor as it sits. My arm would be pretty close to the grounding frame if I tried to discharge it while it is still in the cabinet.

[baritonomarchetto]

After self-shutting down the monitor is dead or turns on then shuts down, turns on shuts down, and so on?

[Alaska]

After self-shutting down the monitor is dead or turns on then shuts down, turns on shuts down, and so on?

So what you're saying is that it's toast?! I need to fully replace the monitor not just the chassis?!

That's a major bummer.

[baritonomarchetto]

No, i am trying to figure out how your chassis could be fixed...

[Alaska]

After self-shutting down the monitor is dead or turns on then shuts down, turns on shuts down, and so on?

When I turn the game on it flickers only around the edge of the screen (split second), then shuts down. Since I purchased it the monitor has never turned on. The guy I bought it from said that he played it a few hundred times, but that it didn't always turn on... and hadn't turned on it awhile.

[Alaska]

The flyback has a hard yellow (almost like hardened glue) goo on one of the adjustment knobs. There are two red wires that attach to the anode. One goes to the flyback control and the other is shown in the above picture. What is that attached to? I noticed that the 25" K7000 chassis for sale on ebay do not have this mounted to them. Is this the isolation transformer?

[Alaska]

Also, there looks to be some darkening on the board in the corner behind the flyback adjustments. I can't tell what caused the darkening. I will discharge the monitor and remove it all from the cabinet this evening to get a better look.

Any thoughts?

[Alaska]

I think I might have found the problem?! ***edit***The chassis needed a new cap kit. The pictures bellow are normal


It looks like someone has messed with this chassis prior to me buying the game. ***edit***See response to this post below. These are factory mods



Some of the caps look to be glued down?! ***edit*** see response below. This is to stabilize caps when pulling a heavy load.

[baritonomarchetto]

Too many questions
Your monitor is in xray protection. It's a zenith k7000 (k7000a) and the block you see is part of the (almost impossible to find) flyback. Not sure what that brown fluid/glue is, but the yellow one under some caps is there to reduce caps movements during charge/discharge cicles.
Extra components under the board are not necessarily a prior op clue: such factory revisions of the boards are common

[grantspain]

yes all that stuff are factory mods,glue is normal btw
probably find it would be quicker/cheaper to find a wg k7000 25" chassis from a forum member or ebay

[jtslade]

Fix it, shotgun it, change the hot, the flyback and cap kit. What AC voltage is the isolation transformer putting out? What does the b+ measure at?


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[jtslade]

Oh and build yourself a discharge tool quick


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[jtslade]

Get magnifying glasses/ headgear (very cheap at harbor freight) and inspect all te solder points on the bottomi of the chassis.

Retouch up solder especially video and power on the chassis.

Really check those IC's on the chassis make sure nothing is bridged or cold soldered.

Get a welder temp adjustable or hakko soldering iron.

Start watching johns arcade videos on capping monitors you tube


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[jtslade]

Use lead solder


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[jtslade]

Triple inspect every cap that you install to make sure that it's the correct voltage and capacitance. More voltage is ok, wrong capacitance ain't. Buy your capkits from Bob Roberts or even better Ian Kellogg 




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[Alaska]

yes all that stuff are factory mods,glue is normal btw
probably find it would be quicker/cheaper to find a wg k7000 25" chassis from a forum member or ebay

Am I able to replace this chassis with a rebuilt chassis that does not have the "block" that is part of the flyback? If anyone has a working chassis for this monitor with new caps and flyback I would be happy to purchase it from them and throw in this chassis if they are interested.

[grantspain]

if you had some experience with monitors i would suggest doing all the things that other members have suggested,but that model uses an oddball flyback-it is available in the u.s but very expensive,by the time you have purchased a decent soldering iron,desolder pump,solder,electrolytic cap kit,horizontal output transistor and maybe a few high voltage polypropylene caps plus that flyback then i bet you would be looking at close to $100.And then of course you need to carry out the work and hope all those items actually repair the problem

i bet a forum member would sell you a good working one cheaper than that

you can use a standard k7000 25" chassis on that tube,actually you can use an incredible amount of chassis on that tube

[Alaska]

Thanks for the help ~grantspain. I'll cruise over to the buy sell trade forum and see if anyone has a rebuilt chassis.

What I gather I that I would need to purchase that specific fly back if I'm going to rebuild my chassis, but I can swap out with a different chassis so long as it is rated for my tube (correct pin configuration as well)?

[Alaska]

Triple inspect every cap that you install to make sure that it's the correct voltage and capacitance. More voltage is ok, wrong capacitance ain't. Buy your capkits from Bob Roberts or even better Ian Kellogg 

Thanks for all the help! i will more than likely swap put chassis with a working one, but will table these repairs until I get the proper tools and some more experience.

I'm going to switch gears and start building a drop in control panel for the cabinet, install the ultimarc VGA card and start working on software.

All, thanks again for all the help!


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[Kevin Mullins]

I would verify that the power going to the monitor is actually isolated before doing anything else.

Unplug the monitor, unplug the machine from the wall.....
Check continuity with a meter between the leads going to the monitor and the plug that goes into the wall.

[Alaska]

I would verify that the power going to the monitor is actually isolated before doing anything else.

Unplug the monitor, unplug the machine from the wall.....
Check continuity with a meter between the leads going to the monitor and the plug that goes into the wall.

I did not get continuity between the prongs on the plug and the adapter that attaches to the monitor. Does this mean that the isolation transformer might have gone bad (see 1st picture above).

[Kevin Mullins]

I did not get continuity between the prongs on the plug and the adapter that attaches to the monitor. Does this mean that the isolation transformer might have gone bad (see 1st picture above).

That is fine, that is what you wanted to see, that means it IS isolated.

 

[menace]

Just FYI--there is a guy on ebay you can ship your board to, to get it repaired..I have had no personal dealings with him but came across the listing while looking for a dead k7000 chassis for parts...maybe someone else can chime in as to whether its worthwhile..

I just typed "k7000" into the search and it came up...

[grantspain]

Just FYI--there is a guy on ebay you can ship your board to, to get it repaired..I have had no personal dealings with him but came across the listing while looking for a dead k7000 chassis for parts...maybe someone else can chime in as to whether its worthwhile..

I just typed "k7000" into the search and it came up...

if it was not a zenith chassis then i would do exactly that but the flybacks for zenith built k7000 are as expensive as buying a recon chassis-that is of course if the flyback is faulty

[Alaska]

Just FYI--there is a guy on ebay you can ship your board to, to get it repaired..I have had no personal dealings with him but came across the listing while looking for a dead k7000 chassis for parts...maybe someone else can chime in as to whether its worthwhile..

I just typed "k7000" into the search and it came up...

I was referred to arcadecup.com by a few folks who had similar chassis issues with various models. The guy is reputable and from what I heard does great work. The turn around time is 3-6 weeks. I'll update this post when I get the chassis back.

[Alaska]

So I finally got the repaired chassis back and I started to reinstall it, but before I turn on the power I need some help figuring out what this ground cable is and where it should be attached?! I reconnected the main (high voltage) ground from the yoke to the monitor ground (visible below) that I had previously clipped to remove the chassis. I do not remember removing this other grounding wire though and do not know where it should be attached. It is bolted to the chassis directly next the k7000a flyback (visible in the picture below and above). Any ideas? Also, it has been 2 months since I sent this off and none of the pictures that I initially took show the orientation of the degauzing plug or video plug (red, green, black, and brown plug, not the plug that goes to the PCB). What are the repercussions for plugging these in backwards? As I said initially... I am not going to plug in the power until I am 100% positive that it is connected properly. Thanks for the help.

[DudeRegular]

My guess is ground to the neck board. Check if you have one attached either via a plastic connector or there is an empty solder point labeled ground on the neck board.

[obcd]

The polarity of the degaussing coil is not important. So, it doesn't matter how you insert that plug.
The video signal connector should be mounted in correctly. You usually have RGB GND and sync.
If you put it in incorrect, you will short one of the color outputs of your game pcb to gnd.
Sometimes, the letters RGB are marked on the pcb, and the wires going to the connector have red, green and blue isolation.
Another thing you can do is find the ground pin with an ohm meter. That one should correspond with the ground of the connector.
The ground pin should measure approx 0 ohm in reference to the chassis which is also ground.

Normally, you have a ground wire going from the wire that runs across the picture tube to the neck board. It looks like that's the one you reconnected. Not sure why you cut that wire as it's usually using a connector on the neck board side.

You might also have an additional ground wire that connects the pcb chassis metal parts to the tube chassis metal. It would make sense that you disconnected such to remove the pcb from the chassis. This last however is just speculation. Maybe someone with the exact same chassis can shine a light.

[Alaska]

The polarity of the degaussing coil is not important. So, it doesn't matter how you insert that plug.
The video signal connector should be mounted in correctly. You usually have RGB GND and sync.
If you put it in incorrect, you will short one of the color outputs of your game pcb to gnd.
Sometimes, the letters RGB are marked on the pcb, and the wires going to the connector have red, green and blue isolation.
Another thing you can do is find the ground pin with an ohm meter. That one should correspond with the ground of the connector.
The ground pin should measure approx 0 ohm in reference to the chassis which is also ground.

Normally, you have a ground wire going from the wire that runs across the picture tube to the neck board. It looks like that's the one you reconnected. Not sure why you cut that wire as it's usually using a connector on the neck board side.

You might also have an additional ground wire that connects the pcb chassis metal parts to the tube chassis metal. It would make sense that you disconnected such to remove the pcb from the chassis. This last however is just speculation. Maybe someone with the exact same chassis can shine a light.

That is a lot of help!  Thank you. I'll use my multimeter to check for ground.

The reason I had to cut the high voltage ground is WG and Zenith, for whatever reason, soldered the ground directly to the board for this model and opted not to use a pin connector.

[Alaska]

I downloaded a copy of the manual for the k7000 and was able to locate the proper orientation of of the Red, Blue, Yellow, Green harness. Strangely enough the wires coming off my monitor are Red, Blue, Brown and Yellow. Regardless of the conflicting colors (Yellow, Green on diagram and Brown, Yellow on my harness) I am confident that the wires are now connected properly to the chassis.

I took a look on the neck board for a grounding wire port missing a wire. The neck board is a P448 (85X0217B W.G.E.C 1986). The only potential spot would be above the C204 port, between C204 and the main high voltage ground. There is a solder point at this position that reads 8K on the board, no wire is connected though, just a solder point. Unfortunately it is not shown on the P448 schematic. Anyone worked on or own a WG/Zenith 25" k7000(a) that might know if this is the correct spot for this wire?

What a hasselhoff  !

[DudeRegular]

This is a shot From my k7000a
See that wire at the top middle of the neck board. Check against yours.

[obcd]

Are you sure that wire is a ground wire?
On most monitor chassis I have seen, you have 2 wires running from the LOPT to the neck board.
One wire is the focus voltage (which is the red one on your picture) and the other is the screen voltage.
As the wire seems to have a rather thick insulation, it could be the screen voltage wire.

Also confusing is the fact that on previous picture you have reconnected a black wire that seems to be connected to the wire running
across the picture tube. On the neckboard, the ground wire looks to be a gray one.
That white thing it's connected 2 looks like a one pin connector, but you said that the wire was soldered to the neck board.

So, where is that gray wire connected 2? (Just to be sure you won't mess things up)

[Kevin Mullins]

BOTH black wires go to the neckboard, they are BOTH grounds, one to the aquadag on the tube, the other to the heatsink near the flyback. They are soldered in the same location DudeRegular pointed out. Note that there are TWO holes right in that area next to eachother, I'm sure one of them will have a bit of broken piece of wire sticking out of it now.

[obcd]

Makes sense on that last picture.

In that case, the gray wire going to the connector will be the screen voltage coming from the LOPT.

[Alaska]

BOTH black wires go to the neckboard, they are BOTH grounds, one to the aquadag on the tube, the other to the heatsink near the flyback. They are soldered in the same location DudeRegular pointed out. Note that there are TWO holes right in that area next to eachother, I'm sure one of them will have a bit of broken piece of wire sticking out of it now.

Thanks for the picture. That is identical to what I am looking at. The position where the ground wire -> heatsink near flyback is attached to the board reads 8K on your board too. The picture posted by Duderancher is slightly different but same effect. It looks like the wire is either connected to the sample high voltage slot or attached on the opposite side of the board.

Thanks for the help guys! I'll get it connected when I get home Friday and fire up the monitor for the first time... That is if my house is still standing. We just had a 7.1 earthquake on Saturday night/Sunday morning. pretty crazy

[Alaska]

Got back and soldered the ground wire to the 8K slot, hooked it back up and fired the monitor up. I feel like I am making progress, but still not there yet.

When fired up and connected to the arcade vga card, all I get is a green screen from top to bottom with a few black lines. Any thoughts?

[DudeRegular]

That is a good sign.

Do you have a pcb you can test rather than the pc? That would help confirm you don't have more monitor issues.

Also how did you setup your video resolutions and all that on the pc? You probably need to be set to something like 640x480 interlaced to get a screen image from the pc.

[P.H.U.]

Good thread. I am here learning. I have the same monitor.

[Alaska]

I was running in 640x480 with no luck.

Oh snap!!! The old PCB works!!! The picture is fantastic!!!

It looks like it is an issue with the VGA Card or my settings on the computer... The wiring harness I purchased straight from Ultimarc along with the VGA card. I ran the trisync and selected Standard Monitor for the output....

hmmm any ideas?

[Alaska]

The polarity of the degaussing coil is not important. So, it doesn't matter how you insert that plug.
The video signal connector should be mounted in correctly. You usually have RGB GND and sync.
If you put it in incorrect, you will short one of the color outputs of your game pcb to gnd.
Sometimes, the letters RGB are marked on the pcb, and the wires going to the connector have red, green and blue isolation.
Another thing you can do is find the ground pin with an ohm meter. That one should correspond with the ground of the connector.
The ground pin should measure approx 0 ohm in reference to the chassis which is also ground.

Normally, you have a ground wire going from the wire that runs across the picture tube to the neck board. It looks like that's the one you reconnected. Not sure why you cut that wire as it's usually using a connector on the neck board side.

You might also have an additional ground wire that connects the pcb chassis metal parts to the tube chassis metal. It would make sense that you disconnected such to remove the pcb from the chassis. This last however is just speculation. Maybe someone with the exact same chassis can shine a light.

Side note about the RGB plug. It is keyed so it will only connect one way. The pins on the left side of the board are closer together than those on the right! That made hooking everything backup a breeze. Thanks again for the help.

[P.H.U.]

I was running in 640x480 with no luck.

Oh snap!!! The old PCB works!!! The picture is fantastic!!!

It looks like it is an issue with the VGA Card or my settings on the computer... The wiring harness I purchased straight from Ultimarc along with the VGA card. I ran the trisync and selected Standard Monitor for the output....

hmmm any ideas?

I think the Ultimarc cable has a 5v signal boost from pin 9 off the VGA card. For you, you will probably need to remove that by fashioning your own VGA>CGA breakout cable. Here is the info: 

http://www.ultimarc.com/vidamp.html

CTRL+F "Wells" and it will take you the right section of the page.

[Alaska]

I think the Ultimarc cable has a 5v signal boost from pin 9 off the VGA card. For you, you will probably need to remove that by fashioning your own VGA>CGA breakout cable. Here is the info: 

http://www.ultimarc.com/vidamp.html

CTRL+F "Wells" and it will take you the right section of the page.

The cable that I purchased is the VGA breakout cable http://www.ultimarc.com/store/section.php?xSec=11 I did not see the amplifier in the package or attached. It says that the new versions (which I purchased) could be directly installed into a Wells Gardner monitor. I just looked at my harness for the original PCB and it has an RGB and ground pins and only one other pin (Horizonal sync). The cable I got from ultimarc has an H sync and V sync.

[DudeRegular]

Try getting your video settings on the pc setup using an alternate known working monitor like an lcd. Run through the crt emudriver instructions to get all your resolutions setup and you should be ok. If that still doesn't work, suggest forcing the 640x480i. Ensure it is interlaced. You will not get a picture running a progressive 480 signal.

[Alaska]

Alright I got a picture but what a hasselhoff and it looks mediocre. Worse off is that 640x480 will not display at all. I just get a green screen. I can get a picture if I run it in 640x240, but when I fire up Mame (aside from the numerous ddraw errors I keep getting while using Windows 7) the games play in a funky compressed screen taking up about 25% of the horizontal space. If I restart in 640x480 or do a full shutdown and power up with ONLY the arcade monitor plugged in I can get the initial Dell screen on the monitor... then back to the green output via 640x480. I can get both monitors to work in tandem but have to use the Duplicate Screen option as recommended by Ultimarc.

Sad to say... I thought I would break the mold and get hyperspin + AVGA to work with Windows 7... but it doesn't look promising. I could revert back to XP... or get a new card and install Groovy Mame?! I feel like I'm at a crossroad here. I can spend another week(s) attempting to get this  card working or buy a new graphics card and spend the week setting up Groovy Mame... Any recommendations or advice would be welcomed.

Cheers

[Alaska]

Alright I got a picture but what a hasselhoff and it looks mediocre. Worse off is that 640x480 will not display at all. I just get a green screen. I can get a picture if I run it in 640x240, but when I fire up Mame (aside from the numerous ddraw errors I keep getting while using Windows 7) the games play in a funky compressed screen taking up about 25% of the horizontal space. If I restart in 640x480 or do a full shutdown and power up with ONLY the arcade monitor plugged in I can get the initial Dell screen on the monitor... then back to the green output via 640x480. I can get both monitors to work in tandem but have to use the Duplicate Screen option as recommended by Ultimarc.

Sad to say... I thought I would break the mold and get hyperspin + AVGA to work with Windows 7... but it doesn't look promising. I could revert back to XP... or get a new card and install Groovy Mame?! I feel like I'm at a crossroad here. I can spend another week(s) attempting to get this  card working or buy a new graphics card and spend the week setting up Groovy Mame... Any recommendations or advice would be welcomed.

Cheers

This guy seems to have had the same issues with the AVGA http://www.gameex.info/forums/topic/15776-resolved-windows-7-ddraw-and-arcade-vga-res-switching-problems/

[DudeRegular]

If it were me, I would grab a different card and go the groovymame + crt_emudriver combo route. Its just good man.

In the mean time maybe try the  powerstrip software to see if you can force 640x480i. The "i" being the key. You can't get a picture at "regular" (progressive) 640x480 because your monitor simply does not support it. the green screen is simply your monitor telling you it doesn't like the signal you are feeding it.

[P.H.U.]

I second using GroovyMAME, CRT EMU drivers, and a Radeon HD4000 series card. Don't go with the 4890. Calamity mentions of some issues in the main GM thread. A 4350 will work just fine. Also, I'd go with XP-64bit. Found a site that has the XP 64-bit ISO (http://getintopc.com/softwares/operating-systems/windows-xp-64-bit-iso-free-download/). Use WinToFlash and load it onto a USB stick to speed the install. I don't care if the OS not secure since it is in a cab. Just need it to work for EMU. You can also try to use XP-64bit instead of Win7.

I guess that is why we see so many AVGA's dumped in the BST forums on all the board over the years.

[robbbby]

I had a AVGA and it was nothing but problems.  Switched to a radeon 6000 series and crtemu with win8 an could not be happier.

[Alaska]

I second using GroovyMAME, CRT EMU drivers, and a Radeon HD4000 series card. Don't go with the 4890. Calamity mentions of some issues in the main GM thread. A 4350 will work just fine. Also, I'd go with XP-64bit. Found a site that has the XP 64-bit ISO (http://getintopc.com/softwares/operating-systems/windows-xp-64-bit-iso-free-download/). Use WinToFlash and load it onto a USB stick to speed the install. I don't care if the OS not secure since it is in a cab. Just need it to work for EMU. You can also try to use XP-64bit instead of Win7.

I guess that is why we see so many AVGA's dumped in the BST forums on all the board over the years.

Thanks I'll check that site out. I have a few old laptops laying around, one of which has a Windows XP product key. I'll try installing XP first then purchase a new card.

Second question. What is the best card to purchase. Least amount of problems, and best results. I see you mentioned the Radeon 4350 and robbby said the Radeon HD 6000 series. Also any specific manufacturer of the card? I see for the 4350 it is sold by VisionTek, XFX, HP etc. Thanks for the help guys.

[Alaska]

I ended up installing Windows XP 32bit. I had an install CD for SP2 laying around and upgraded to SP3 (let me know if anyone needs this file, it was hard to find), and updated windows (Same thing with the install file for I.E.8 ). The link to XP64 worked but the file I downloaded was corrupt and did not load properly on my machine.

I installed the ArcadeVGA and got the thing working in 640x480 (after resolving some weird issues). I was able to setup MAME with the proper ddraw setting and the resolution looks great in a few games. I can launch games with RL no problem, but some games have resolution issues... that is they invoke a resolution that either bounces vertically or is cut off on the top and bottom. Essentially I now need to identify the games where this is happening and change the resolution that MAME invokes.

Side note... I fired up Hyperspin to see how everything looked and got the blue screen of death!!! It looks like a .dll error. I initially copied over HS and RL directly from my Windows 7 machine so I'm going to reinstall the software which will more than likely remedy the error... here's hoping at least.

Short story long I purchased Radeon 4350 card as a backup. If I can't get everything stable by the time the card arrives I'm ditching the ArcadeVGA for GroovyMAME and CRT EMU Drivers.

[DudeRegular]

Groovymame and crt emudriver will solve a bunch of these resolution issues you are having. You generate the modeline for your monitor and then it fires your games up correctly. i think you will be happy making the switch.

[Alaska]

Using MAMEUI I was able to get everything to work with the ArcadeVGA, and the resolutions look great. I haven't tried reinstalling the front end yet... just happy that everything finally works. The Radeon 4K card will be here by the weekend so I have a few more shots at getting HyperSpin to work before I abandon it all together.

Thanks again to everyone for the help!

[Alaska]

I was able to get the whole thing working with HyperSpin 1.4, RocketLauncher, MAME.170, and the ArcadeVGA with Windows XP 32bit. The issue was RocketLauncher used the MAME.exe rather than the specified MAMEUI.exe. I deleted MAME.ini and ran the command prompt> MAME -cc -directdraw and the new .INI file resolved the resolution issues I was previously having. Other than that I had to reconfigure a few other .XML files and encrypt some config files so that RL wouldn't reconfigure them on launch. But now I have a working machine with HyperSpin, and all of the themes, wheels and videos installed for my PCBs. Pretty awesome final product! To be honest all of the jacking around to make things work was pretty fun. I feel like I gained a lot of knowledge in areas where I previously lacked, and am definitely hooked on building these machines as a hobby. It's too bad Alaska doesn't have a large stash of old arcades.

Thanks again to all of you for helping out with this project. All that I have left to do is mount a few USB plates to the back of the control panel to make hooking up a keyboard and mouse easier, and slap some graphics on the control board.

Cheers
 

[Alaska]

Let me front end that I am new and still learning my way around arcade hardware, but am having a blast so far. Here are my issues.

I have a WG 25K7191 monitor inside of an old "Hit the Ice" cabinet. I tried turning the game on and I get a blip of light in the upper left corner then nothing. It lasts a split second and sounds like the monitor wanted to turn on before it gives up and shuts down. No sound, video, nada. I checked the power supply and have 136.0V coming in and going out to the monitor. The 5V and 12V that go to the JAMMA board are pretty close (4.98 and 12.05). The continuity and solders in the actual JAMMA board look good and I don't see any glaring issues (cold solder joints, dark solder or bulged caps). I'm having trouble wrapping my brain around a few things and was hoping someone could help.

*Don't laugh too hard* What is this main power unit called? [/URL][/img]
***edit*** The picture is of the isolation transformer.

Is the 136.0V output to my monitor too much? What can I do to change this voltage (if needed)?
Is the chassis more than likely the issue and not my power supply or game board?

This is my intention. I just ordered an Arcade VGA card from Ultimarc. I have a PC that I will be hooking up to this cabinet. I would like to bail on the old controls (4-player but only 2 buttons) and go to either 2 or 4-player with 6-buttons. I will more than likely do this with an ipac. What I would like to do before I purchase the ipac, joystick and buttons is to make sure that the monitor works.

Any idea what might be causing the issues for the monitor?

Many Thanks,

~Alaska

I made one rather large error before initially posting this. I did not measure the voltage at the outlet, only the voltage that was powering the monitor inside of the cabinet when not under load. Now that the monitor works properly I am seeing 125V at the monitor and seeing 123-125V at the outlet. Game on!