Author Topic: 1st build - 2 player pedestal (Read 17593 times)

Old_School · « **on:** October 11, 2015, 05:52:57 pm »

Hey everyone,
It's been a long time coming but finally kicked off my build which was inspired by severdhed's TMNT pedestal. I initially wanted to build 4 player but decided to go with 2 (later regretting it). I also wanted to make it a 1 day project

I'm 11hrs in and down to wiring. I guess it helps when you've built it in your mind a million times. Comments are welcome.

Old_School · « **Reply #1 on:** October 11, 2015, 06:08:35 pm »

Sorry guys, have to re-save pics to a smaller size to post.. will post shortly.

Old_School · « **Reply #2 on:** October 11, 2015, 06:28:22 pm »

Here are the pics. Thanks

Old_School · « **Reply #3 on:** October 11, 2015, 06:30:51 pm »

more pics...

Old_School · « **Reply #4 on:** October 11, 2015, 06:32:11 pm »

Last ones..

severdhed · « **Reply #5 on:** October 11, 2015, 07:42:45 pm »

That looks great (and very familiar). That is a lot of progress for one day. You can always make a new 4 player panel for it later if you really want one. Good job.

ladysephiroth · « **Reply #6 on:** October 11, 2015, 08:10:54 pm »

Looks amazing! I can't believe you did that all in one day! Awesome!

TheDude · « **Reply #7 on:** October 12, 2015, 08:30:01 am »

Would be much more fun if politicians and other officials used this to deliver their speeches !

Awesome progress !

harveybirdman · « **Reply #8 on:** October 12, 2015, 09:34:44 am »

I would like to commend you on your design choices, I think a 2P panel with 6 buttons per player is just peachy. Watching!

pbj · « **Reply #9 on:** October 12, 2015, 10:08:13 am »

You need to rethink that latch on the back panel. That's really detracting from a clean build. I've got mine piano hinged at the bottom and the top is held in place with two screws painted to match the cabinet. Which is fine if you grew up in the conversion era like me. Stick a real lock in that latch's place.

severdhed · « **Reply #10 on:** October 12, 2015, 04:24:07 pm »

Quote from: pbj on October 12, 2015, 10:08:13 am

You need to rethink that latch on the back panel. That's really detracting from a clean build. I've got mine piano hinged at the bottom and the top is held in place with two screws painted to match the cabinet. Which is fine if you grew up in the conversion era like me. Stick a real lock in that latch's place.

i agree, that latch has to go. just about anything else would look way better. even just a magnetic catch on the inside with a small knob on the door...or you can pick up those barrel locks for a few dollars at Lowe's or home depot. You've done a great job, i can't beleive that was 1 day of work.

Old_School · « **Reply #11 on:** October 12, 2015, 10:40:44 pm »

Quote from: severdhed on October 12, 2015, 04:24:07 pm

Quote from: pbj on October 12, 2015, 10:08:13 am
You need to rethink that latch on the back panel. That's really detracting from a clean build. I've got mine piano hinged at the bottom and the top is held in place with two screws painted to match the cabinet. Which is fine if you grew up in the conversion era like me. Stick a real lock in that latch's place.

i agree, that latch has to go. just about anything else would look way better. even just a magnetic catch on the inside with a small knob on the door...or you can pick up those barrel locks for a few dollars at Lowe's or home depot. You've done a great job, i can't beleive that was 1 day of work.

Thanks for the feed back. I think that latch ended up bugging me as well. I ended up going to a another Home Depot yesterday and got a barrel lock that severdhed had used on his TMNT pedestal. I installed that and It looks so much cleaner (will post that pic tomorrow). As for the hinge I think I'm stuck because I cut the bottom edge of the door piece 45 degrees so it would flush with the bottom piece. An inside hinge wouldn't allow it to pivot open and without a hinge it would slide out. So the two outside hinges was my only option. I guess at least it's black and blends in with the paint. I didn't get a chance to work on it today but hope to wrap up everything tomorrow. More to come...

yotsuya · « **Reply #12 on:** October 12, 2015, 11:07:58 pm »

I'm not a pedestal fan myself, buy you've clearly done your research and listened to feedback and it shows. Good job so far!

severdhed · « **Reply #13 on:** October 12, 2015, 11:09:12 pm »

i didn't install a hinge on mine. i installed the barrel lock at the top, and just let gravity hold it in place. that way i could easily lift it out of the way when i needed to get into the cabinet and not have to worry about where i was going to stand with the door in the way.

are you planning on any artwork or tmolding?

pbj · « **Reply #14 on:** October 13, 2015, 09:24:25 am »

I think the bottom hinges look fine.

severdhed · « **Reply #15 on:** October 13, 2015, 10:57:36 am »

I agree, with them painted black, they are barely noticeable.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Old_School · « **Reply #16 on:** October 13, 2015, 01:59:00 pm »

thanks for the comments. More pics...

Old_School · « **Reply #17 on:** October 13, 2015, 02:03:10 pm »

Installing the joystick and buttons now. Had a question on the joystick installation. Which side should the plastic piece be facing? I drew out number 1 and number 2 on the picture. Which part should be facing the joystick handle? Thanks

yotsuya · « **Reply #18 on:** October 13, 2015, 02:16:00 pm »

Quote from: Old_School on October 13, 2015, 02:03:10 pm

Installing the joystick and buttons now. Had a question on the joystick installation. Which side should the plastic piece be facing? I drew out number 1 and number 2 on the picture. Which part should be facing the joystick handle? Thanks

You got it right, assuming that's for 8-way play.

PL1 · « **Reply #19 on:** October 13, 2015, 02:25:10 pm »

The cone-shaped piece is upside down.

Scott

Old_School · « **Reply #20 on:** October 13, 2015, 02:28:06 pm »

Quote from: yotsuya on October 13, 2015, 02:16:00 pm

Quote from: Old_School on October 13, 2015, 02:03:10 pm
Installing the joystick and buttons now. Had a question on the joystick installation. Which side should the plastic piece be facing? I drew out number 1 and number 2 on the picture. Which part should be facing the joystick handle? Thanks

You got it right, assuming that's for 8-way play.

Yes, 8-way. Thank you!

Old_School · « **Reply #21 on:** October 13, 2015, 02:28:55 pm »

Quote from: PL1 on October 13, 2015, 02:25:10 pm

The cone-shaped piece is upside down.

Scott

Thank you! This is a much better diagram than I got with the joysticks.

Old_School · « **Reply #22 on:** October 13, 2015, 03:15:07 pm »

Quote from: severdhed on October 12, 2015, 11:09:12 pm

i didn't install a hinge on mine. i installed the barrel lock at the top, and just let gravity hold it in place. that way i could easily lift it out of the way when i needed to get into the cabinet and not have to worry about where i was going to stand with the door in the way.

are you planning on any artwork or tmolding?

No artwork at moment but might have a buddy do a wrap on the panel. Also, no tmolding. Mainly cause I'm too dang lazy. lol

pbj · « **Reply #23 on:** October 13, 2015, 03:29:24 pm »

Do the t-molding. It's piss easy to route the slot.

yotsuya · « **Reply #24 on:** October 13, 2015, 03:32:04 pm »

Yeah, Jim is right. T molding is the number one thing that takes a project from "look what I made in shop class", to "very well done."

severdhed · « **Reply #25 on:** October 13, 2015, 05:06:18 pm »

I didn't do T molding on the first few control panels i built. but once i finally made one with Tmolding, i couldn't believe the difference in the way it looked...i was very happy with it.

Do the tmolding

yotsuya · « **Reply #26 on:** October 13, 2015, 06:01:36 pm »

Quote from: severdhed on October 13, 2015, 05:06:18 pm

I didn't do T molding on the first few control panels i built. but once i finally made one with Tmolding, i couldn't believe the difference in the way it looked...i was very happy with it.

Do the tmolding

Listen to this man. He speaks Truth.

Old_School · « **Reply #27 on:** October 15, 2015, 04:29:19 pm »

Man, work has been killing me. I got a hiccup on installing the joysticks. 1 bolt stripped and 1 bad joystick that made clicking sounds. I'm waiting for the seller to send me another replacement. The delays are killing me.

.

Old_School · « **Reply #28 on:** October 15, 2015, 04:31:20 pm »

Quote from: yotsuya on October 13, 2015, 06:01:36 pm

Quote from: severdhed on October 13, 2015, 05:06:18 pm
I didn't do T molding on the first few control panels i built. but once i finally made one with Tmolding, i couldn't believe the difference in the way it looked...i was very happy with it.

Do the tmolding
Listen to this man. He speaks Truth.

I'm looking into the t-molding now. I altered the build a little for ease so tmold might not show up the way severdhed's look and I rounded off the control panel edges thinking I wasn't doing the tmolding. Will update once I get a better picture w/ tmoding.

Old_School · « **Reply #29 on:** October 23, 2015, 06:05:11 pm »

Hey all, I had a question on joystick calibration. I have a standard 4/8 way Happ Joystick connecting to a Xin-Mo Dual Controller card, Type ID:XM-0. (part of a combo purchase) Everything is installed and wired correctly i believe but for some reason my joysticks aren't centered correctly. I've tried to calibrate it in the windows devices and it's identified as THT Arcade console but it still doesn't work properly when playing. I can't get a dragon punch or fire ball facing one direction when playing street fighter. I'm on Windows 7 pro and have tried running it on Mame32 and Mame 0.149. I've almost come to the conclusion that it's the Xin-Mo card. Thanks for the help.

Old_School · « **Reply #30 on:** October 29, 2015, 12:35:24 am »

Quote from: Old_School on October 23, 2015, 06:05:11 pm

Hey all, I had a question on joystick calibration. I have a standard 4/8 way Happ Joystick connecting to a Xin-Mo Dual Controller card, Type ID:XM-0. (part of a combo purchase) Everything is installed and wired correctly i believe but for some reason my joysticks aren't centered correctly. I've tried to calibrate it in the windows devices and it's identified as THT Arcade console but it still doesn't work properly when playing. I can't get a dragon punch or fire ball facing one direction when playing street fighter. I'm on Windows 7 pro and have tried running it on Mame32 and Mame 0.149. I've almost come to the conclusion that it's the Xin-Mo card. Thanks for the help.

I've also tried it on windows8.1 but same thing. Could incorrect wiring/grounding cause this?

Old_School · « **Reply #31 on:** November 03, 2015, 06:00:50 pm »

Quote from: Old_School on October 29, 2015, 12:35:24 am

Quote from: Old_School on October 23, 2015, 06:05:11 pm
Hey all, I had a question on joystick calibration. I have a standard 4/8 way Happ Joystick connecting to a Xin-Mo Dual Controller card, Type ID:XM-0. (part of a combo purchase) Everything is installed and wired correctly i believe but for some reason my joysticks aren't centered correctly. I've tried to calibrate it in the windows devices and it's identified as THT Arcade console but it still doesn't work properly when playing. I can't get a dragon punch or fire ball facing one direction when playing street fighter. I'm on Windows 7 pro and have tried running it on Mame32 and Mame 0.149. I've almost come to the conclusion that it's the Xin-Mo card. Thanks for the help.

I've also tried it on windows8.1 but same thing. Could incorrect wiring/grounding cause this?

OK, after some research and some help from some people I think I've isolated it to a cheap joystick (ebay bundle). My only question now is how can you visually tell the difference between a Happ Competition joystick vs. Happ Ultimate? Can some please post some pics? Also, are there any recommendations on a Joystick for fight games. Thank you.

DudeRegular · « **Reply #32 on:** November 03, 2015, 06:07:11 pm »

I run the Happ Competitions in my MAME and dedicated MK cabs. I like they way they feel for fighting games. Have no issues getting combos to work.

Aceldamor · « **Reply #33 on:** November 03, 2015, 08:50:44 pm »

I ran Happ Comps in my first cab and had no issues with SF2, MK, or KI.

woosdom · « **Reply #34 on:** November 06, 2015, 11:56:12 am »

looking good. starting my build soon. do you have the dimensions for this build? will you share them? thanks

severdhed · « **Reply #35 on:** November 07, 2015, 10:42:43 pm »

This started off based off my my pedestal, i don't know how much was changed, but here are the dimensions of mine...

woosdom · « **Reply #36 on:** November 08, 2015, 01:48:26 am »

thanks alot. i actually just found this earlier

any suggestions for dimensions on a 2player build. i found some that were about 35" wide 18" deep for the CP. just wondering if anyone had any experience with a 2 player pedestal and what sizes they would recommend.

severdhed · « **Reply #37 on:** November 08, 2015, 11:48:29 am »

I think it depends on what controls you want to use. I have a 12" x 30"panel on my upright cabinet, which is as small as I would care to go for a 2 player unit. That is for two players with 6 buttons and a 3" trackball. A panel that small would look stupid on that pedestal base. I think an 18x35 would look fine on that base and would give you plenty of space.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

woosdom · « **Reply #38 on:** November 08, 2015, 01:34:41 pm »

thanks again. i was wondering if it would look weird with a small panel. im gonna stick with the 18x35 for now. maybe change it to a 4 player later on

Old_School · « **Reply #39 on:** November 12, 2015, 10:28:07 pm »

Quote from: DudeRegular on November 03, 2015, 06:07:11 pm

I run the Happ Competitions in my MAME and dedicated MK cabs. I like they way they feel for fighting games. Have no issues getting combos to work.

Thanks for the suggestion! What I bought was labeled a happy competition but I think I got a knock off.


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